




/•«\tf^#AVv\r l.\\.*if- 



if vl:».viii«/Jrz,i.^^i?t .>.'*/*-; ■. 



^ 




¥^¥Mi^ 



k^. 



"^m^ 




lOCllS 

.xectee an 
lONNET. 



\ 



a-Ui\^--r.\.W L:\:rj^ 



/ 



Traitement 

dcs 



akdies de la Peau 

et 

DE L'ESTOMAC 



Maladies k Ciiir Clievelii -- Malaiiies Veiieriiiies 



Le D'- MONNET, ancien Chef de diuiqiic de 
la Faciilte, recoit a son Cabinet, 16, Boulevard 
Saint-Germain, Paris, les malades atteints 
de ces diverses affections, les Mardi, Jeudi, Sa- 
medl, de 2 heures a 4 lieures ; les aiitres jours sont 
consacres aux rendez-vous a Paris ou en province 
(lemandes d'avance et par lettre. 

Le D'' MONNET a publie sur ces maladies iin 
li\re intitule •.Peau el Estomac owxoyQ franco contrc 
1 fr. en timbres francais ou en maiidat-puste. 



Les Malades qui desirent se faire soig-ner sur 
olace a Paris, pourront, s'ils le veulent, etre recus 
lans une Maison de Sante specialement aftectee au 
raitement et sous la direction du D'" MONNET. 



fiTA BLISSEMENTSIBALNEAIRES 



MAISON DE SANTE 




SAISON DU 15 MA'I AU 30 SEP'FEMKnS 



ETAI5LISSEMENTS BALNEAIRES DE PIlEMlER ORBP.E 

Lfs eau\ do BRI0B6 9 36", loni-piirgatives, sonl souveraines dans Ic^ maladies du FQIE, 
dfs /!f/;V,J el des miESTIHS. — TrailcmeiU special de VOB^SITt 

BAINS DE SALINS, Anemie, Rachitisme, Malsdies des Os 

ATTRACTIONS DE TOUS GENRES 

CASINO, THEATRE, CONCERTS, SEUX 

£}xcursioa9 en montagne — Pfiche ii la truite 
feOLISE ANGLICANE 

EECOHMiSDE GHRHD HOTEIi DES THEHIVIES bobi 

ASCENSEUR -«- LUMIERE ELECTRIOt'E 




MAISON DE SANTE 




_ _ _ -'>4gC-^ 

M (Directeur . M. Is D' Moreau de Te«.rs 

•ti, RUE DE LA MAIRIE, 23. - IVRY-SIJR-SEINE 



F,i 



Tiliphone 801.67 

oninrii artuellement. deux etablissements sepaivs. L'un ronsacn- 
/3u iiMii'Mnoiii lies maladies mentales. L'auire au traitement des nia- 

ladlCv ljcr\ nisrs . i 

[pavilions ISOLES ENTOURES de JARDINS 

VASTES PARCS 

Les pareiils des malades sont renus a Tetablissement tons l.^s 
jours, de 10 lioiiivs a 3 heuresVLes mercredis et dimanches, toute In 
jounice. Le doctcur Moreau de Tours reroit egalement a Pans le-^ 
luntjis ei vendredis, de 2 a 4 heures, 58, rue de I'Universite 

Ijlo^ens de communication " — TiMiiiway .iUtj au CliaieliM 
: nalcaux-express lais.-iiii c^r.iK' :1 In v. 



1/ 



I.ES GRANDES MARQUES 



YELOCIPIrDIE 




aoufacturing 



p Syndicate Linnitecl. Market-Lar 



ne 



NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE 



■.•Sisgrams 

■uyD-NEWCASTLE-ON-TyWE 



National Telephone 
r 2101 



DIRECTEUR GENERAL fOl 



tejlfifl i. iMfL 



2S, 'Avenue de la ■Cnande-Armee. 22 



in 



:p-a, f\.xs 



LES GRANGES MARQUES 



SOINS DE LA BdUCHE 



^ DKMANDER^PARTOUT 

I LE DENTELY 



/ /A 



Sc troiiV(> dans loutes leis 
bonnes Maisnns Hp Parliimri- 
nos, pniici(Ml^\s t'liarmacies 




Elixir Poudre, Brosse et Pate 

DENTIFRICE 

LF PLCS 

ANTISEPTIOUE CONMU / 

liiissani .1 U hnuclje m parlum j(]rpalilo / ■=^'^' 

/ V/ 

Km (KSIiflAL / »jj / JrVH3 JS 1 

L. SPgRAT A / wii»a''''^««o 

PARIS / .'^Sk^ 
/ ,^ ^ / 

.i|i|Esjtii: ninjjtil m .ii|.inoq c| b iur,ssiP| 

RNNOO inOlldHSIlNV 




ssiS'iiVji-fcin;! j 



s"C)ini!?A110vj J[) SUiSv:7i:|V k' 
SniDDtliJULIJ SeiBiJlOUI.Ilt 'Si.11.1 

•■>( saiiuM. imp ^lAiio.Ji .--s 



aoiHvdfixNaa 

A131N3a 31 






LES GRANDES MARQUES 



AUTOMOBILISME 




--•fef. 



^^^S^fe^ 









•1 



■m 






Electriques et & Petrole 



-13, Rue Deacombes 

put, DP ,., ...o pexE.BB ^.1. 3P»A,!)Rk,XS 







Locations k la volont^ des Clients 



REPARTITIONS 

Station de charge pour Accumulateurs 



M:-<ftL_LSOiNr .A. jsriCE 



5^J5f:^^^^^gE?>^^p^ 



liv 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



AUTOMOBILISME-YELOCIPEDIE 




nUADRICYGLE-AUTOMOBILE 



I 



GOYET 8t liEGRflS f 




it 



m 



W 






23 bis, Ru9 du Marche, 23, Ms 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
CYCLES ET MOTOCYCLES 






CYCLb.S .fc.T MOTOCYCL.es 




+ 



5, potifvl&'Jraosport et'lc parage J 

— r — =s-s— j-;-^-? 

diKctiondune h.cyclctte. La (f,i-eciio,n suppniiiee, une machine ne reut ptus Sire' 
ei!fourchec : elleest aiiisi prcserveaconlre Ic'vol c c <= 

.nm,S!?^V- ■''""'' ',';'-f "''C«i";'Pa':?l'ele ;au cadre,- la machine devieht d'jine grand- 
coma|odae paurl? transport et e garage, QarJ'espace occupe primitivarL par 
le guidon est. enUei'pmeat-ijupija'ijne. «. <=.iv P«i 

*t I. entritii!„.iles nmcbjne? ef des af«ii«ys co<,/- /«s i^eparitionsea ttusgweS. 



MOTEDRS a PSTilOLiloyp TRICYGLSS, VOITURBS et EMeARCATIONS 






'rp5^U.2:]fM'& e^ 



, , ^ . l5^£rei"c2u.rs-CorLSt,vuoteus-a 

11, Hue Bellaiige!-, LEYALl,OIS-PER.RET 

""" " ""■ ""TE- ECHANGE ET ACHAT Ot VOITURES AUTOMCBILES 0£ TOUi SYSTtMES 



r VI 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
YOITURETTES POUR MOTOCYCLES 




rniLippoN & 



S, rue du Debarcadere, 8 






mri^ 




LES GRANDES MARQUES 

YELOCIPEDIE DE LUXE 
CYCLES ARTICULES 



The Imperial Cycle 



BICrCLETTES D£ LUXE i BICYCLETTES DE PRECISION 
PIECES DETACHEES | FOURNITURES DIVERSES 

MOTOCYCLES ! AUTOMOBILES 

BICYCLETTE GRAND LUXE 300 FRANCS 




B. imPERIAl- 



P^'RIS, IS. rue de "Ricljelieu, PJl'RIS 

SUCCURSAL.E DRUXULLE3 

Guidon et tige de selle antitr6pidafeurs et antid6rapants 

KMfVfTt! *.. f.. l^ C. KB^HCE. Itmi.-ICEn 

Supprimant entiereme.u les trepidations ct les choca dii pave et la nppage 

SPECUtEMENT RECOMMAKDE AUX DAMES 
Nos mschincs garanties 5 aas et les pneumatiques 3 ans 





BICYCLETTE 
ARTICUliEE 



: Trepidation, pfiisde Fatigue, roulement doux avec 
LA BICYCLETTE ARTICULEE 

Positions fixes sur les Pedales et sur la Selle 

PAR LE DEPLACEMERT DE LA BOUE ARRlfiRE. lNDf,PElAMMENT DO CADRE 

Aux Caliots des Routes pavees et mal entretbnues 

AVANTAGEUiSEMENT RECONNU 

pa"- un grand nombre de Touristes 

POUR LA DIMINUTION DE LA FATIGUE, POUR L'HYGIENE, ETC. 

£nooi francs (lu Catalogue sur aemande 

PUYBOURDilTGonstrueteur 

ll«. Boulevord Haussu7a>iii . PARIS 




LES GRANDES MARQUES 
EQUIPAOES DE LUXE 



CHEVAUX DE SELLE A LOUER 

5 fr. la matlnfee — -lO fr. I'epr63-midi 

:Tasu - «iie?j - (faom - fisras ■ pm-Boc ■ siuessttes mum 

A IjOUEK, el la. Jaxir-n6© st au ivlols 



t 



PENSION DE CHEVAUX ^- PRIX MODERES 



Cheir.in des Baumettes 

T i;: L tt p :-s c; N f : ''•'-'- 




a. i^oy 



51? 



400 CHEVAUX OE LUXE DISPONIBLES 

6arrossiers, Cobs & PosH^res 
SO, Rue Pinel Paris 

Bd DE L'HOPITAL " 



PLMSIEDRS/IUTRES COIRS SUCCURSALES . 

-r^- 7, Roate de la R6voIte (PcKeMaiiioi) 

' 104, Rue Charles-Laffitte 

Telephone CARROS$IERS, COBS ET CHEVAUX DE SELLE 

Adfes:: TJIegraphique : HorSSroy- Par!S ' 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



ROUES CAOUTCHOUTEES 



fS 



JWaw ST. f AliBOf 

Comid de SHti£U/SRURY el TALBOT, Pmpri6taire 
0. ABBAMY, Dinctmtr 



BxnUBATJX -. 4, me Olvck (Op^ra) 



BANDAGES CAOUTCHOUTES 

POUR ROUES DE VOITURES 





Sysleroe Brevets. 








^^_^^.rr^.. 




finooi Tr&ih/y 






fyjoo/ ^fl/2C0 


sur 


' i" 


liiiP'^^^M 


5tf/* 


demand 


^^■- J 


S&IB 


demande 


UBIf 

61 

CATAL§G3£ 




?^P 


] TARIF 

et 
SATALS6US 




^P:^ 





Maison a BRUXELLES, 35, ru© Sl^vin. 
^ Maison a MILAJN", 8, Via TazzolL 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



HARNACHEMENTS, CARROSSERIE 




>?v 



jlaDufacture df paillettes et f asseienteries lilitaires 



5? 



6)r-. EQUIPEUENTS IHIUTAIRES, BUOOERIES DIPLOUtTIQUCS 

(q) ™ 

SKLLERIE I ?ai3ia(jijiBa 8P;is]ai!.3 a'aasaas Btaaeiaaa 

Civile et Militaire - ■ • - . 

-^.™^- [Q Sabres et ^peee Y^^^.^-"""'^ %\t\ 



d'Ordonnancc 

cl dc Bonlaisief 



F^ I C M E S 



»^/fan£aiSLc^ 



^.W 



c)« 



SeUES D'AMA20A<£g 
-ft- 

gpecialilc 

de Harnais Riches 



#5 



FOURNISSEURS 
tlu Senat, 
dcs icotes St-Cyr, fonlamebleiu 
Verssilles, du Borda el tfe St-Maixent 



Ceimm s CsiDisrons inieiiuiin eiUBiiiies neuiliiiiH 

I BREVETt E» I'RAKCE ET A L'^TRAKQER 

tV 41. rue de Richelieu 



i^ 



f MRIQUEDEVOITURES 

Sjslnnc dc Frein biTvcip 

VOITURES NEUES et rOCCASION 

pnix MODf;Kf;s 



157, Boulevard de la Villette 
Paris 



DU TIBHE 

Entiferement reconstruit en 1898 



PARIS 

{BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS) 

En (ace ta Banqtie Ru^^e 



;les grandes marques 
yachts a 'oile et a vapeur 

^mil!!illlilillllllllllilllllilll!illllllllllllllllll!illlllllilllltlllllllllll||||||||||||||||li||l||||||l!|llll||^^^^^ 

I' fllpl)Oi)§e ItEG/lIi I 

I Constructeur-lngenieup des Arts et Manufactures | 

= ANCIEiN ELEVE DES ECOLES d'aRTS ET M-ETIERS ■, = 

I PRA1RIE=AU=DUC, NANTES (Loire=Inferieure) ? | 



:\ 



I L- 



■Bl 


m 


km 


pivi 


pi 


_J^ 


g^i^iH 


y^ 


■;*£)^j»:-v.^^,„„. 






■ ,^»=»«'^ 













C a A XT D E, O N" ISr B JR I E 



& 



I Constructions metalliques \ 

I YACHTS A VAPEUR & YACHTS A VOILE j 

I Constructions mAritimes 

^!!i>in!iitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHiiimwiitHiii)jiiiiMiHiHiiiiiiiiinmiiiiiriiiitiiiti!iiiiiiin' 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
CANOTS A VOILES ET A YAPEUR 




GODcsrsxDaxjGxxorsr 

Ancienne Maison WAUTHELET 

UBHETOri 

4, BoLiievard Diderot, 4 

CAROTS DE PLAISANCE j 

r 

Je to us Grenres I 



k YOll^ & k VA!>EU'ii 



les:grandes marques 
peintures specfales pour bateaux 




MANUFACTURE DE PEINTURES & YERNIS 

ZiM t MOETIGHT (Seioe-et-Oise), p^s PARIS 
i WILLESDEH (pris Leodres) 8t { gA]IIT-F£7EBSB0Dfl6 

Georses GUITTET 

43, Rue de Paradis (Cite Paradis), a PARIS 

PRINCIPAUX ARTICLES FABRIQUES PAR LA MAISON 
t-A Q\ 60 CANOTINE 1 PEIKTDRE SOUS-MARIWE 




Composition anti-corrosive ex garan- 
tissant les carenes contrc Ics licrbes 
iD&rincs et les coquillagos. 



L'OLtOLITHIQUE 

Peinture a I'huile prSte & emnlovS" 
(en toutes nuances) 



; Gotto peintiire s'emploie siir fei% bois. 

I platre, briiiue, etc. Couvre une surface 

j plus grande que la peinture a I'liuilc ordi- 

> niirc et possede ^ne tres ^raridc durco. 
I Ellfi peut 6tre recouverte d'un vernie ou 

> servir de couche dc foods pour I'applica- 
< tion de la peinture-^mail. 



PEINTURE-EMAIL 

("" C\ c^ 80 nuances') 




La plus briUante, 
La plus durable, 

La plus facile a employer, 
La meiUcur marche. 



\ S'emploie sur bois, metal, cimcnt, 

; plitre, pierre, etc. Get dmail donne au" 

\ i.ibjets qui en sont recouverts, une surface 

i brillante ct dura ressemblant .i la porce- 

I laiiie. Inattaqu&ble i I'eau de mer et 4 

I I'eau cliaude. 

j NoT4. — Ddsigner da^s Ics com- 

j mandes si la peintureiSmail doit dtre 

> employee a roxtorieur ou a I'intorieur. 



VERNIS D'ACIER 



I.e plus durable des verms jjour les 
ouvragcs Ics plus exposes aux mtempd- 
ries, pour yachts, canots, etc. 



VERNIS POUR YACHTS 



Vernis special secli^nt dur, tris bril- 
lant ct re-iistant bien a I'eau. 



VERNIS TECK 



I Vornis special, tres pale, tres brillani, 
} sechant vite et dur a rint6ri«ur', pour les 
boiscries. planches et tous les usages 
i g^nerauji a I'intorieur dee navires. 



Osnianttir Ics Tarifs spiciaui pour les Peinturss et I9S Vtmli peur tous usages , 
ji/iii que les Cartes de Nuances des Peintures-tniail on Ptinturt OleolltHique. 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



ARMES DE LUXE 




I US 



li'*^ PREMIERES RECOMPENSES A TOUTES lES, EXPOSITIONS 

-^ 

'« ROBLIK ■ 

Fournisseur Brevctc de S. M. I. R. I'Emperenr d'Antrirhe 




BREVETE 

D'^in r-^o-aveavi S5rstem.e ci© fixsil sans ciiien 
a. extraotesxir a.'utozrj.aticau.e 



9, RUE DE LJX ViLIiE-L'feVEQUE, 9 

PARIS 



les:grandes marques 



ARMES DE SALONS - ARMURES ANCIENNES 




IS^Sr^^" i^'^^^^m 



— »• 



<37vNoNS POUR VT^eHT^ 




APPAREmS POUR LE TIR AUX PIGEONS 

p.A.Iji_>-TR,AF'P poui- I'exercioe du, Tir a-vi vol 

A., LAMMERS 

^^A'ffiS i^- 65, -Faubourg Sa.Lrcf--Cen/s» €5 ^- -pytT^-fS 




-^' 



"w^is^^r^"***" 



Q^ancn SFoni/<;e> en fS2/ ^' 



BAGHEREAU 

MEVBLES . OliJSTS 'D'AUT 



26, ^ue. J^c €eCetlcr 



Pa^ij^ 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 

APPAREILS PHOTOGRAPHIQUES 

ET ENREGISTREURS DE PRECISION 




i 



OU JUMELLE STEREOSCOPIQUE 



Brevetee en tous J?ajs 

Cei appareil, indispensable a lous les Touristps, Peinlres, Dessinalou , 
Archilecies, elc, donne Pillusion absolue en vraie grandeur de larealite, 
avec son relief el sans aucune d6for- 
ination ni exaseraiion de'perspectiv'f , 
quelle que $oiL I'JncliiiaisDn de I'appa- 
reil OU Ifi nianque de" cequl. 

II a la foi'nie d'unejumplle oe 
ihefaire; SOD chassis .a r^^ipeliiii'ii pfr- 
inel de faire 12 yues st^i-eo.iCupHiin'? 
OU 24 vues simplte; il esl ip'tri.haii- 
ieable en pleine lurairre. Le corps 
le I'appareil avec ses ubjectijs seri de 
stereoscope et permct de voir les 
iuiages agrandies a leur vaieur 
reelle, celies-ci peuvent loujours servir pour les pi-ojeciions; les cliches 
peuvent aussi 6tre agi-andis avec n'imporle qyel appareil et i n'lmporLe 
qu«lle grandevir* 

Poiir les personnes qui tifennenl absolument ii (ain- des epreuves sur 
papier, uoas veooBs de^j-eer les HOMEOSCOPES, brcveie s g. d c. per- 
metlant de. faire_ 24..epr-euves' si-mples 6x6'/, ou 8x9, ou des epreuves 
stereoscop£ques'6x IS OU 8X-18. ' 

INVENTfi ET OONSTRUITPAR Jules RICHA.RI> 

IngcnipiiyCijiisifvclwr,. ClievatieT da la Ugion d'hcnmnuv 

Fondateur et sSuCcesseor da la. iWaison RICHARD freres 

8, Jnipasse Fessanr PARXS-BELLEVILLE 

TR0I3 GRAhOS PRIX AOX EXPOSITIOitS : PAftS. IB89. ANVERS 1894. KOflDEAUX 1895 
23 MtPLOMES B'HONNEUH 

En venlp CHEZ L INVljMTEUR, ei dans les principales maisons de pljoiographie 



lliii:lll■!!«^lllgl^■lll»'Jl■a Ej»^||;ilIll^^l|iil|pj^f>' 



BAROMETRE ENREGISTREUR 



Rendu fegle-raenlaire a bord de la Mar 
ObservaioiresjIeJockey-CiubvlesYaetiiseleg 
d''eaui-, lafiourjfe du 
Coaicnei'COl, ,efe ■ J)' 
iuscri't d'urte lacjM^ 
conLinuc .Iss vauifT, 
lions de la pce'ssion. 
almosphSrique; par 
la courbe de montee^ 
ou dedesoente, i! ip- 
diquela prevision du 
lemps a I'avance et 
esl toujour? pret ii 
.' la campague, il est interessant pour 
mnvoi franco du Catalo 




ine de I'filal, adoplepar tous les 

ants, les srandsCasinos desvilles 
.- vousdonner un pro- 
nost.ip.Tras simple el 
Ires solide, il a'a be- 
soin d'^ucun embal- 
lage special et peul 
etre emporte direiile- 
rnenl dansuae vali=e 
ouuiiemalie. llesim- 
dispensabtc au -bord 
de la cper, ainsi que 
danslesvillpsd'eap.x: 

tout le moudf. 

2ue sur demande 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



PHOTOGRAPHIES 




M 



i 



PARIS — 2''\ Rue de Londres, 9"'^ — PARIS 



Us fius bautcs reconpeiises obtemies jin Esjiositioiis. Diplome {i'liniiiiciir, kors coccaars, .\!a ISSl 

PHOTOGRAPHIE A LA LUMIfiUF, KLECTRIQUE ' 

HOTEL PRIVe 

rnstallation unique pa; son confoilable et ses collections ari'^iqut;. 

iiO,000 Clichis des CeU'brites de la haute SocicU parlsicnne. 

Los cias alios prwios oiileiiidos a las Exposicioiits. Diploma dt Iionor, bofs concours, Nin I'-'i 

EOTOGRAFIA CON LA LUZ ELECTRICA 

><OTEL PARTICULAR -^ 

Icstalacion unica por- su comodidad ■ y sus coleccioneb arlisiic.ix 

t20,900.Planchas de Cdebridadcs dc la alia Sociedadpiuisieiisc. 

liigliesl c&wards obtained al ExhibiOons. — Diploma of' iomir, bors cflncours. Niit 188'( 

PHOTOGRAPHrES TAKEN BY ELECTRIC LIGHT 

PRIVATE HOTEL 

Coraforlable iDStallaiion, artistic collections. 

120,000 Nerjalivcs of the must Celebrated persons of I'arif.. 

iiocbsle AuszeichnuiigeJ auf all(D AasslelluBgeo. — EJirondipiem, bors Mincoiirs, Xizza 1384 

AUFNAIIMEN 13EI ELEKTUISCIIER BELEUCIITUNG 

RRIVAT- HOTEL 

Uochsl komfbrtabla Einrichtung KunslVolle Samralumjeii. 

120,000 Plalleii beTuhmt6T Permnen vou Paris: 

tpOTorPA*ia Ba4eph " 

94i«, rue de Londres. Palis. 

Casiuo Buruiiii uacr-aju nojyieiiuLia od Bui- 

TaonaxTi. — GOMerouit inajuui hors concouri 

Uuitqa 1884. 

<l>OTorpa*iB Di)H BJeKTpinecKonrv orotuienlB 

'liicTiibiii orejk EjM8CTncuiio« ooutmoBie co 

CB^jejiy K)u*»jiT)r ■ ctoBMk apTBcrniecnuMi co- 

0|l3llijIMb. 

120 000 RiHtua 3!iaaeBHTuii iBui cticiuuro 
QaiuiMi-Karo ufiiuecTK!. 

TELEPHONE 150-72 




;les grandes marques 



PHOTOGRAPHIE 



U1PU'<MK D'HONNE\IR 





23, ^ue 'I^oyale, 83 



:.':<. <K><>C<>0-C>0(><>0<>00<>0-C>y. 

;!; TiufePHOME 242-KT § IPAIEU^ 

\\:<XK>C^CK>0-0<X>0<><>0<KK> O-j-i 



PAPIERS VAN BOSCH 






OESNtfeRES N0UVEAUT£S DE L'Ah(NSE 13©8 
Deux formals : 6 Vi X 9 et 9 x 12 



SI,MILI-dU^¥,ELLE 
S'-'FEREOSGOPIQUS 

7X15 - 3x18 
FABRIQUE 

B'APPiPE'LS PEOTOOPiPBiaUB:; 
fUi'Ljei-'iistlciilikiiKislignials 

e;<tra s'jptLutuas 
1 ouvoaux 1 oileles pcrlijc'.ioii. 3X12; 



OPTiCJEN-CONSXRUCTEUa ^ 

PAlilS — '^- -K-w^e tie Ja?uiyj '?■ — X^>%-Sjf»- 

OfmAHOEK L£ CATtlCuUS BEHIASCEn lE C,i X'acOUE 



LES uxxANDESiMARQUES 
PHOTOGRAPHIE 




PfiOTOGI^APMie 

Edouard ROZE 

29, Boulevard des Italiens. — Paris 

Instar.ation de 1" ordre — Salons k Cabinets de toilette reservec 



Carle de visile soignee, ta douz. 25 tr 
— —In i]2dom. 15 fr. 

(]ui'te visile au plaCine, ta douz. 40 fr. 
(iie« riche) ln\l2(toiu. 25 fr. 



APERQU DU PRIX COURANT 



Carle album soignee, la douz. 40 '.i 
— la 112 douz. 2b h 



Carle album au platine, la douz. 80 fr 
(tres riche) /n l/2doia 50 f.'. 



GRANDS PORTRArrS (NALT^RABLES 

Grandeur 0.18"" X 0.24"" de haul prix 25 francs /'^preute 

- 0.30"" XO.40^'" - _ 60 ~ - 

- 0.50^'" X 0.60"° — _ 100 - — 

— 0.65"" X 1™ — — 200 — — 

— !■" Xl.50 — — 300 — — 
Reproduclions d'ancieiis portraits, ressejubiantie absolument exacte 

IPru suivaitl dtffic«fU) 

Differentes poses sont soumises au client avant la hvraison, 
sans qnigmenfalion de prix 

POftTfl«irs POOR CAftlJ D'lDENTITE LIVRtS DANS LES 48 HEURC3 

CADRE3 RtCHES ET FANTAISIES A. DtS PRIX TBtS MODtHtS 

On peut poser tous les jours de 7 heures du matin i 7'heures du soir 
par n'imflorte quel temps 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



TROUSSEAUX POUR HOMMES 



ifhyj 



Sj 



^^fei^^fe-fe^'^^ 




MAISON ENTIEREMBNT DE CONFIANCE 

Qui a oblenu UNE des plus hautes Recompenses a I'Exp. Urtiv de iS89 

MfiDAILLE d'OB, Exposition univeraclie, BRUXELLE.S iS&7 

DIPLOME d'EONNEURTixposUion d'ALENCON- 1888 

CREMATION NOUVEl-l«S 
De la Chemise avec la poitrine doubles 

CHEMISES 

Toutes faiies et sur vicsurc 

Depuis S'' " 

ftuaiile superieure. . tO, ■! I, 12, 13 ' 

CALEQOMS 

Toils, depuis. . . . . _. 6 "' " 
Coton croise b BQ 




Depuis 



m 



i.@EmLiH,Clietei8Fi 

4, EoaW-vard Sebastopcl 

I'res ia rlic de Rivoli j 

Af'rcsse teteffraphiquc ■ \ 

C.3.EAUX D'AR'GENT-PARiS i 

Telephone 158-47 i 

TROilSSEAOX POUR muH \ 

GANTS en peau, pour 'T' , , 

Officiers, ind^diiraWes. 2 SO i^ Envoi tranco liu Cataiogta IlliisirS 



TKOUSSE^iUi 

PO-UR HP M ME 3- 

aUTS, BHETEIiliES 
GHAUSSETTES 




^^^^(S^l^^'^i^g^ 



^■?^. 




XXI 



LES GRANDES MARQUES T; 



LADIES> TAILORS 



>k±A±±ML± > ^^^^^MA^^^^^J^J^^^^"^^^ 







Boulevard de ia Madeleine, n" 9. -.E'NTRANCE 

W AVMF ! -r^^^-li^c ! RID'NG HABITS, SPORTS, FUSS 
H It I i I C i TAILORS- ) LATEST STYLE 



h- 
H- 



B- 




VOL 



Capital : HDIT MILLIONS 

DiieclioD pour la Fraace 

Par/s : 45^Riw_ Taltbout 

.Assurance its VILUS, CHAT2A0X, MAI- |i 

w'io^i'.'i.i'JSi'""^' MAlSONS He COMsfERCE, 11 
ycMSii""*'*^^ " MAGASm, BMQUES 

LbUSCS, etc. It 

La Coinpagnle reconnalt la Jurldlctlon ij 
des Tribunam franpalt 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



FLEURS NATURELLES 




Si'^PW-'^PiW^^^^'^'^'^^W^'^'^. 



CLE^ GRANDES MARQUES 
SALLE DE BAINS - TOILETTE 



[KSTSUiTOlCKCMSETSDETOfiMs SkUB deMB 




CHPOINCtT 




ssife 




"■srwtiiS 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



BROSSERIE, ONGLIER, TABLETTERIE 




FflBRlQUE DE BHOSSERIE FWE 

a Tracy-le-Moiit (Oise; 



I 1 



CHAELIS 



Succ de COMMELIN Fr6res 

MaisoQ de Vente ; 83, Boulevard de .Sebastopoi, PARIS 

MARQUE <>^Sg;- DEPOSEE 



■0 

z 

o 

^ r 

> s 

r V. 
W 

P 

to o 

7i 




U 
2 

m 



BROSSES h Tete, Habit, Caapeau, Poudre, Dents, Brillan- 
t.Lne;Barbe,EaaLreau, Fcrtction, Velours, Peignes, Saurcils. 

GLACES i&ce a main, Psyc-he, Poche, Bouche. 

BOITES a Poudre de-iaz, Poudre pour gants, Savon, Poudre 
ongles, Pomraade, Epingles, Sels, Alcali. 

POLISSOIRS pour les ongles. 

CROCHETS a Gants, Battlnes. aciei- de tout.es longueurs, 

Limea, Cure et Gratte-ongles. Chausse-pieda, Ouvre- 

gants. Ciaeaux, - Peignes, etc. 

TOOS LES flBTrCLESCOMPOSANT LES GARNITURES DE TOILETTE 
Monogramm^e gra^oS, incrustes, Argent et. Or. 




LES.GRANDES MAEQUES 
AMEUBLEMtNTS DE FANTAISIE 



POP. TAT ION 



CHn:;:>is — -iaponais - ikdien 

CJIS OS FER 



i.:;^i).^ 



:3 Oa ET .'.;iGENT 



RUFFIIR DEs AIMIS 

:" , J^assage ^liarlcs-^'I 
53, "Rue de 'Ch.uunm 



Par 



IS 



TiL^PHCMS 20i 



MAISON FONDEE EN lte76 




<'%' 






COFFRES-FORTS INCOMBUSTIBLSS 

IF SPFCIftLE /> F^'NG COUPES (PROPRl£Te OEU f^'u.Gfi) 



•4:;, 



OiS 







,^ < a RE|?^S^ (Kerns) 
llinj> -, > COFFRES-FORTS 

S'-r-^iS^I* ■^ ETCOFFRETSIM0OMBDST1BLE3 
^ V^ WBERIiilllllS 4 TEOBGS SmiSS 

■- > , / T'jUT .\ciEn i;t inv,oi.,(.^i,ls 

/fj) COFFRES FORTS 

/'";! ^'> wA f'lf EjUijiies cl .UainislralMS [.UBciires 
'<•'' ti 'i^ COFFRES -FO RTS 
v.^„V ^'£iJSL£S DE TOUS STUES 
■•> '^ iJMOKiEES 4 mens DS SiLdllS 

^ 1 UTANT LES bOIS .LEi PLUS RICHtl 

'-A MAtSO?« POES?:'"; *«SALKMhHT LE8 COPFRSS ANGLES ARISONDIS ^ 







LES CtRANDES marques 
DESINPECriON DES APPARTEMEr^TS 



i 






Soci^te Fran^aise 



DE 



1 



I»roced.e TK,IXjXjA.T, Brevete S. O. ID.O. 



Desinfection des Appartements 

Literie, Vetements, Fourriires, etc. 

sans aueune deterioration 

DESINFECTION PAR LES VAPEURS SECHES 
D'ALDEHYDE FORMIQUE 



Agence g^nerale i BKnXBLLES, pour toute la B&lgiquo 

AGENTS ET REPBESENTAfiTS DANS TOUTE LA FBANCE 



Adr.sse Tflegraphiiiuc 
FORSr,OCHLOr.QL 



BUREAUX ; 

1 4', 'Rue des 9grmvAdQ,s 



Ti:if;,csE 237-18 



I LESj^GRANDES MARQUES 
ECLAIRAGE PAR L'ACETYLENE 




ATTESTATIONS 

et EXTRAITS de LETTRES 



De H. HUBERTI. In/;inieur 

Lifegc, 3 janvicc 181)8. 
» Plus jc consulte do pcisonncs coiiipotcntcs sur le 
Gaz Acetylene, chimistcs, ingoniciirs, dirccteurs 
li tislncs a gaz, plus mon indecision augnicnto. II 
iCMiltc pourtant dc tons ccs avis que Ic systcme 
1 Ui r est consid6r£ coiuinc ctant Ic plus ingonicus 
01 oTraiit lo plus do security. » 

JDe M. BOUARDIN 

Toulon, 26 septembrc 1897. 
o J ai rait 1 installation dans mon magasin dun de 
vns appareils A Gaz Ac6tylcnCj Je dois vr.us dire. 



Mens 
eclairage 
I aclieter. 



qu'il foncuonne trcs bien et mc donne un 
superbe. Je sorais done desircux de 



Oe U. PASCAL, Inginieur 

Lczlmies, 3 fovrier 1898 
« Plusieurs pei-sonnes sont d(!ja venues chez M. Brossatct ont etc fiappccs do la siin|illcit(; 
ot par suite de la sdcurlte que prcsente voire systcme. Ti'cs bon fonctionneinrnt des 
aFPai'cils. » 

0» *. ROaERT, Pharmacien Maraussau, 22 Janvier 1898. 

J'ai le plaisir de vous annoncer que noire installation marclie bicn Voire Gazogene 
raarcUe & la perfection, je n'ai que des eloges a en laiio. » 

De H. BARBET, A.-chitecid Mce. 28 octobre ISO". 

• J"ai achetiS un de vos appareils par linleriniSdiaire de M. Pagaiiettr. J en suis fort saiisfait. • 



Ces quelquea attestations ilogieuses, prises parml d'luires, montrent suffisammcnt I'accuell 
iavorabla fait aux aopareils TOrr aans Its installations pnvees. 

La COMPAGNtE URBAINE D'ECLAIRAGE PAR LE GAZ ACETYLENE. Soci^Ki 
ahonyn)o. Capital : 2,00!).0(.X) Ir. — Siojc xocial . 139, rue ae Rome.. PARIS — qui r,cst a','»i;r(S? 
I exploitation des bi-evcts U. Turr, entreprejid loutes installations pnbhques et pr.vies d'ScUliipo ] 
tide chauffage. — Pour tous renseiyjioincnis conccrnant la vcnte des appai oils s'ldreiio' ' | 
ir. rAdminittrateur iili^ui dt It COMPASme fURBAiNE 



LES GRANDES MARQUEE 



PIANOS DE TOUS STYLES 



^liasiinmniiiMnminiiiiHiiiiiHSiuiiMnntiiwEmuimHmimiiiiiiiHiiiiiiiniitiitiiiisnmtiniiiisiitiitE 




MANUFACTURE DE PIANOS 

^AISON BO CI IE, FomtK EN iUS 

G'l 1 f l€'C!' o 
fAUoo^, SOOCESSIOM 



VENTE - LOCATION — ACCORDS - REPARATIONS | 
CRAfJD GHOiX DE PIANOS D'OCGASION | 

MAGASmS, SALLES DE COURS & £)'AUDITIOHS j 

31, Rue do Faubourg-Poissonniei:e, 3! = 

FABRIQUE- 99, Faubourg- du Temple | 



i ^ PIANOS D£ TOUS STYLES SUR COMP^ANDE | 

7iiiii!!imniimi!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiininiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiJ!itiiii!;ii!(!nDifnnnfi)iiiimiiii;!!!iiminmm^^^ 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



DECORATION D'APPARTEMENTS 

;llliliiliilifill!llliliiilllllilllilllllll!litiJf;iJiil!ill|lli!il!!lllll{lli!IJIinUl!Ullli:illllllllllll!IIIIIIJIi.;IliH 




25, me du Landy = 

PLAINE-St-DENIS (Seine) | 

r6l6pnane : 2/5.87 | 

NOTICE I 

Le " Cuir de Paris " (brevete s. g. d. g. en France et a I'^tran- S 

ger) constitue I'une des plus merveilleuses sources de decoration de 2 

ce temps. La richesse de ses incrustations, la finesse de son grain S 

et de ses modeles, la remarquable resistance do ses reliefs, sa son- = 

plesse, en meme temps que sa grande- tenacite, la facilite de sa pose S 

(qui se fait comme les cuirs, les etoffes et les papiers) ei font un pro- S 

duit de tout premier ordre. s 

11 possede toutes les qualites des vieux cuirs de G^rdoue et de S 

Venise, aux coloris si fins et si puissants, sans en avoir les d^fauts. S 

A I'encontre des produits similaires employes aujourd'hui., qui = 

sont souvent des receptacles microbiens impossibles a nett'oyer, et, = 

parfant la cause inconnue de malaises inexplicables, il est exempi S 

de plomb, de matieres toxiques et se lave anx solutions boriqn^es. S 

11 est, par sa composition meme, un puissant autiseptique, repondant S 

en tous points aux prescriptions du Comite consultetif d'hygiene de S 

France qui interdit formellement I'emploi du plomb et de ses com- S 

poses dans les peintures, les tentures, etc., des lieux riabites. S 

Ses multiples applications en font un produit recherche a I'egal H 

des plus beaux cuir:; et des plus jolies etofies, par les Architectes, 5 

Decorateurs de Style et d'Ameublement, Tapissiers, Maroquiniers, £ 

Gainiers, Relieurs, etc. S 

^ T^PPlalCT^TIONS I 

Le " Cuir de Paris " s'applique aux tentures raura'Ies, mfiubles, 5 

paravents, sieges de tous styles, aux articles de Paris, de voyage et s 

de modes, a la reliure, a la decoration des paquebots et des vehicu'les s 

de chemins de fer et autres. 11 est superieur au cuir pour les chaises; H 

Le " Cuir de Paris " se pose tendu, comme les cnirs et les = 

itoffes, ou il se colle comme les papiers. II se lave a I'acide bori'qua ~ 

avcc facilite. ~ 

Miininiiii|iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiHHiiiiii!!!ii[:;;::: :.Hfiiiiiiiiiii!imiii»Riii^ 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
ORFEYRERIE, BIJOUTERIE ARTISTIQUS 




sclcar 



18 ^VK ^IVIENNE 
Or/e vreJ^je Arb ent 

Bijoux artistioues snr commanci©^ 




*M« ""''•"'Ci,, 




SERVICES DE TABLE 
COUTELLERIE 



Au Certehaire 

Maison Fondeeen 1796 



•objew d'Art kOpfevpepie 



OpfevPePie y ^ y/ ^ 

19.Boulevapd de Strasbourg 




TELEPHONE 

N9 101.I7 



T^nts'ssk\s jpour Cadearwc 



LXVXI 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
BRONZES CISELES 











edeles pour le |renze 



f lOORipESSIS 

50, HUejde T^Urenpe, 50 

PARIS 



I Bouf^-dc-Table 

i Pendule^ - Ganddah^^^ 

f Hppliquef •- Gai^fel^, etc., eic. 



REPROriUCTION DE PIECES DE MUSEES 



W REPARATIONS EN TOUS GENRES 



Lxxxri 



LES GRA.NDES MARQUES 



BRONZES. - ORFEVRERIE 



ET DE FERRONNERIE D'ART 



FOllRNISSEURS DU GARDE-MEUBLE 

PARIS — Rue Debelleyme, 12. — PARfS 

CHEMINEES MARBRE ET BROJI-SE ■, 

GA^NSTURES DE FOYERS 

COLLECTION DES MUSE^IS NATlONATJX 
Execution genn? ancien 

TELEPHONE 25I-S7 



T« VlrJu y < 'i r Tj^iyriaiBiaaara»M«aB MaiM« W 'J l tM«yiB«l ! *Jlg PinBMHimm 



•^2c.^e-,r~Xr,xj£^ 



Jl: 



G- PEAKRON (L^ M^tauia ^<^m) 



USINE A VAPE'JR ET MAGASINS . 

PARIS — 50, Faubourg du Temple, 50 



PARIS 



eRPElSBIE & GQilVERTS en METAL EXTRA-BLAKC IfiilTES 

SPECIALITES DE CRISTAUX ET PORCELAINES MONIES 

. " ', Fantaisies pour Cadeaux 



Factory anil Warehouse . 

60, FaiLbourg du Temple, PARIS; 

Golil and Silver Goods. Covers of extra- 
j %vhitc sllverplated metal, 
j Glassv/oik iint I'oreclaiii tancy mouD- 
! t^'— S)!vonn(T, Gilding. 



^ Fabrica al vapor y Ahnaccncs 

50, Fauboiire du Temple, PARIS 
Plateria y Ciibieitos dc metal «xtra- 
blai\co. 
Espeajalidad de cnstiilcs y porrc. 

^ lanas. 




txxxin 



LES: GRANDESJMARQUES 

APPAREILS D'ECLAIRAGE AU CAZ 
P£:TR0LE, J&LECTRICITE 




clairage Robert 

MOKNET 

•lO. Ruo Tranchet, lO — PARIS 



■ Appareils d'6clafrage 
Lampes, Suspensions, Lampadaires, etc., etc. 
Reparations et Transformations de tous Styles 

Spscialits ti'AboNourjn tous genres 

BOUGIES-VEI(.LEU.SE.S AU GAZOGENE 
i=»6t;rox© i_xj]vii3E:aF&iE: z*ectifi6 

Usine et Entrepot : 163, Rue des Voies-du-Bois 
a COLOMBES (Seine) 



r-. 





CONSTRUCTEUR-^LECTRiCIEN 



Fournisteur .Ic lAiitllene. Je la- M-ume ei Jcs 

36. RUE de: montuolon 

LUMIiLrE KLECTHIIIL't:, SOi\f<£RIE 

TliniPHONE 

I'ARATONNEBHi: ET ACOUSTIQUE 

Fabrique dc \>i\i\% pour Dviiamos 
INSTALLATIOH COMPLETE 

D'USINES, CHATEAUX, PROPRIETtS 

PlLS ds ctnt losUlliIiOBS 6:\\ Talus 

J^OMBREUSES )^ErERENCB3 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



COUTELLERIE,' ORFEYRERIE 




Nlaison OSMONT, fondee en 1790 

r i DUpipEi , s,« 

94, By SebastopoL — Paris 

' FABRIQUE a NOG-EN"T (H'^ MARNE) 



SPECIALITE DE COUTELLERIE DE-TABLE 

en tous genref: 
BOITES A MAINS ^ 
ARTICLES DE TOILETTE 

C:"'^'''slon ■_ . '"■ ' ^xoortation 



LXXXV 



^ LEStGRANDES MARQUES 
COUTELLERIE, ORFEYRERIE 




PLUS DE 200 HIODELES DIFFERENTS 
U'.ches obene. palissandre, come, iTOire. nacre et argent 

Ci.Ji,,af, remeignentH'.i el ickanliUoni frtiim tur itmilidi 



LXXXVl 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
MEUBLES DE JARDIN- — fPAPIERS PEINTS 



i| MAISON PARTICULIEREMENTRECOMMANDEE |^ 

I RESTAURANT DU BCEUF A LA MODE | 

*i; " &, "Rue de Valois, 8 H' 

■«# <iltui a deox pas du T/je^fre Frangais at du ThSStre du Palais-Roy a I ^ 

i 

5i 



SALONS — CABINETS PARTICULIER<5 

CUISINE ENTIEREMENT FRANQAISE 



\1 -Highly' recomni^ded situated near 

^ the theatre FraiKjais and theatre Palais- 

^ Royal. 

,%a Thorough trench cooking- 

MODERATE Pl&CES 



Sehr empfehlens werthcs Hans. Ganz 
in der Nahe der beiden « Theater Fran- 
cais • «nd « Palais-Royal » 

Niir tranzosischo.Kuche. 

.MASSIGE PREISE 






?^ 



FfTT?TTT?T?T?TFfT^T^TT?'iT'lT-B5' 



^1 



^PT 



i ^^%^^''^'^'^"''f^ 



^'nls 



Efiireprise Gdnirale 

PEINTURE -0 
©• YITRERIE -0 

o- DORURE 

72, Tue Condorcet 
^ PARIS' 




^ en. 'Ho tin et J one 



PAQUIEII 



'AUb 

8. Rue Saint-Sabin 



Tables- a. Gov rage 

servantes 

^'erceuses —-Sardinieres 

CHAISES iLo'lSauES' 

Ibdie^ae — Damier;— Damass6 



LXXXVXI 



[LES GRANDES MARQUES ^^ 
BIJOUX FANTAISIE 




LES GRANDES MARQUES 

Billards, Appareils de photographie, Bains et Douches 

MfiDAILLES, INSIGNES 




'BU^Brrs'Vs: s ct d o- 

UMalllB fl'Or, Exposition Parts 1897 
erami Pm — — 1898 
Hors Conccw — — 1898 

BILLARDS NEUFS & D'OCCASION 



■ miS«PS-TABiiS[)Eli,\lERSaOD£L{^ 
' Bandes de S'Hards, Billes de 
Billards, Queues de Billards, Pro- 
vides, Jeux el Accessolres en tovs 
genres, Ornps cf93illards d'Elbeuf. 

mtmmhmmum& mm 




HUKFKT 

• S*LON <3e COIFFURE 
\ •( PEDICURE 

K S C R T M E 



Garageli6is',rBeCaiei,16'« 

Telephone ( 



MViDROTHl&RTKPlE 



" AUTOMATIC-EXPRESS 



atec ohjerlU reciiUnCalre jiiisluta 



APPAREIL TRES L^GER 

ds FojKtruction soignee, nuoi ie 2 viiouri 




SRfeCI Auire 
!• piDS ImportuU '^^S^^^~ 

DE RCCOKPENSES pour ftCUNIONS SPOflTIVES 

I^Gber! EK?aULT 

^DITEUR 

PARIS. 18. m Reaumur IB 

Sreloijiies riches 

EPINOLFS FT CrJOljX 

pROIX 

Moflngramnies pour 

Chanipionnals, ni Oi. ^'i 

inei!, Afgflnl. Bro(J2«. 

OeSSm - GBAVUflE. - CISELURf 

Eu>Ue du Cycliste. EtoUe d*i Cavalie 

f ourntsKur (jes grandes issocfatiofls Sportivps 

<f JOUKKkUX OE aPORT 




LES GRANDES MARQUES 



PARFUMERIE 



I I in III! "" 



K m "HEINE DES RBEIIiliES 



VI ©li 




29, houle.\/arifl-de.s_ Italiens, 29. — PARIS 

S^XJL. INVEJNTEU.R 

dU SAVON llOYAl? # T^HHIDACE 
et M €4Y0£JEl.blJTINE 

- DERNJER^S CREATIONS: 

PASfpMERm WtP^I-OLEJTE ((Viritable parfuai de la flour) 

i^ivoi, .'". . EXTRA-"VI0LETTE 

"•:-^^-'-»c.- . IXTRA-VIOLETTE 

■:.n.i,a-tjToil.-ii.- - (EXTRa-VIOLETTE 

'nmh-a 6i\\i^y. EXTfift-VIOLETTE 

Irt'Tu'- EXTRA-VIOLETTE 

{luLtaatiBf EXTRA-ViOLETTE 

lijiuio, . . . ■ - ',- -f' • • EXIRA-VIOLETTE 

PiBrUMSBlS ASfSBB' S074Ii (nouveau parfum estra-fin) 

55a^'^ ■-.'...• : . AMBRE-ROYAL' 

t^'MfC- • - AmBRE,-JiOYAl, 

&m rlp loltctlo . . .' AWBRE-ROYAL 

t.olionVBg.Hiilo AIKIBRE-ROYAL 

Roudre do ©2. AIVIBRE-ROIEAL 

""',«• : .AMBRE-ROYAL 

HijlUuitmo AMBRE-ROYAl, 

'-"tion -- AiyiBRE-ROYAl- 

Cysrti&Kiae. . f , AMBRE-ROYAL 

' '-> . PASFtmEgrg A U UABECHALE ; 

Pavonilta. .' WARECHALE 

Kssenccaifa WARECHALE 

Eaiide luilolteftju JflARECHALE 

Lotion \ .^Hule 4 fa MARECHALE 

Poildre .V Ui/; a la fllARECHALE 

HmeiiJa. WARECHALE 

Bnllaulmo a la MARECHALE 

bachats-ila . ^:. WIARECHALE 

ESSENCES eONGENTU^ES': • -'^ .-.^ 

Bouquet Pompadouri: - Parfum lobelia. ^ Parfum fteurs tie lys 



LES GRANDES M.v..^uES 



TRAITEMENT DE L'OBESITE 






"'-SO; 



15 VOULEZ-VOUS MAIGRIR 



^^? S\iivea p©r».d.a,irt civieiqiies semaiiaes 

I TRAITEMENT SUEDOIS 

fe VOCS OBTlENOBEi IIN RESUITAT CERTAIN. ETONVAMT W 

^i LTne Instruction aecompagne cbaqile Fldcon IS^ 



Le Flacon Savon Suedois 5 (ran^ 

Le Flacon Pilules Fondfintee Suedaises 5 - 
Par g.Eiacons, Savon ou Filules . , . . ' 24 - 

^^ On le trouve partout 



Depot GfiDeral PHARMACIK CENTBALE 
50 ef 62, Rue dv FaubOLirg-Montmaftts e*47iRm Lafayetts ^1^ 

4{ PT^RIS ^ 



NE COUPEZr PLUS VOS CORS 

Faltes-les di'Bpai'altre avec le 

CORICIDE RUSSE 

Ifexislo des contrefagons. Pour felre ceNain de reussir, bien e.vigoi- 
le iiom COt^ICir>E I?,TJSBE et I'adresse du D.epdt general 
Pharmacie CiiNTR.VLE, 50 ct B2, vue du Fa«iflwirg-Montraarlre, -cl 
47, rue Lafayette, Paris. ', " 

On peut leiroaver partout eD exigeant le nom 

OOKJEOIJDE K.XJSSE 






LES ENVIRONS DE PARIS 



HOTEL-RESTAURANT 



/^#?^g-ifei^Sfe:fe^l^i^lfe@ 






Hotel da GraijdGoiidS 



MAISUN DE FRI-MIER ORljKE 

]£eiairag8 filectrique, tl^lSphcne 

Restaurant d la Carte et^d Prix fixe 

Situation splendide 

En race le Ghamp de Courbes 

3t ^ proximiLe du Chateau 

Garage pour Autoraobilss, Bicyclettes, eiz. 

Posts pour charger iss accunrmlaieurg 

des Voitui-es Slectnquep 

Kcunsb et Rsmis© 

Omnibus de r Hotel t tcu8 les traius 



m 



ft 

i 



Uo^ 



I 
I 



riiis Hotel recfctJii) construi-tea Has <UJ moaern cooilon and sani- j, 
iaty diiungeinenis 111 Jeniiinjr.- Wed exposed BUtrounJcd by splcudjci 
tores* 



I'll 



Au Capital de 300,000 fri 

Pierre GF^AT^EI^OLliE, D 

31, Rue du 4-Septembre, 31 f- 




•>^s 



■rM-^.^ 



Guide el Livre d'Adresses 
EN CINQ LANGUES 

FranQais - A nglsiis - Russe - Espagnol - Allemand 
LLUSTR^ 




Un volume de Paris- Uxiiversei-«»l d6pos6 dans dou^e ),>lle cent 
rinquxnte neaf chambres, des mg^einquante premiers l\i)tels de 
Paris qui reQoiTent chaqxie a4 pw l Deux millions de risiteurs, 
appartenant a la meilleure Sooietg du Monde entier. 



«: DES ANNONCES 



L'ALIMENTATION 

Pages . 

^,s Tourtel k Tantonville 46 

'ranoe,Kirsok 

de Bonnet a Cognac 42 

A Penner 42 

_ Fiue-Bretagne 44 

stives La Rieuline 43 

, E. Poullain 45 

_ Gheri Ferbos 45 

ae France Aug. Bara 25 

nampagne Garr6 Perceval 27 

_ Ghandon (L6on) 2ti 

— ( '.haury , flls 17 

— Goltin 28 

— Couvreur 28 

— Desmony 30 

— Deverdun 30 

_ Dufaut 32 

Dumas (Alexandre^, ' Bl 

— Gardet 32 

— Lanson 33 

— Leblanc 34 

— E. Nass6 35 

_ Meller 35 

— Moreau-Leffevre 35 

— Marchand 39 

— Pur Ghampagne Dauniy . 29 

— Eegnault 36 

— ■ Roiissillou 36 

— Vaillant-Jacquot 3it 

— Vin Bara 38 

— Vin des princes 37 

Vins d'Anjou et deTouraine. Tessier 41 

Vins des cotes de la Loire et 

Vouvray Barue • 40 

— Vermont 40 

Tapioca naturel Mauprivez 47 

Pains depice Petitjean 48 

LES GRANDES MARQUES 

Armurerie. — Armes de .sa- 

. Ions. — Armures anciennes Bochereau oo 

— Lammers 65 

_ Roblin 64 

Automobilisme. — Cycles.— 

V6locip6die Barthelemy et Cie od 

B.Imperial o7 

— Goyet et Legras 54 

— Philippon et Gie • , 56 

— Puybourdin ■ 57 

_ Stephen et Marples 56 

— Tauzin et Cie 55 



Roues oaoutohout6es S. C.5Talb 

Canotage. — Canot a voile et 

a vapeur G. Aubreto 

Yacht a voile et a, vapeur... A. Legal.. 

Peinture sp^cialc pour ba- 
teaux f Tuittet 

Equipages de luxe A. Rov 

— M. Achille... 

Harnarchement. — Carrosse- Fischer 

rie 

— Petitfils et Dai! 
Photographie Automasi6 

— E«g. Pirou ^^^ 

— E, Roze r^ ' 

— La V6roscope .... 

— Wallery 

— .1. Zion 

Ameubleuient de fautaisie.— 

Coffre forts. — Pianos de 
tout style. — Decoration 

d'appartement DuhoisOudin 

Ruftier des Aimes .' ■. 

— (juir de Paris / 

_ Bucher 78 

Bronzes, bijoux artistiques. — 
Orf^vrerie — M6daillon et 

insignes Bouhou frferes 82 

— George 87 

— E. Gourtabessis 81 

— Vve Dupipet 84 

— Pearron 82 

— Piffaut 80 

— M. Tallois 80 

— Enau 88 

Billards. — Bains et donclies Simon 



Balneum. 



Eclairage 'appareils^ au gaz, 

p6trole,61ectrieit6, acetylene '"ie Urbaine d'ciclairage. . 77 

— Cunin et Tramecourt 83 

. — Paul Monnet 83 

— Thirel f^'3 

Fleurs natur piles Pelty 72 

I'.outellerie Dupipet 84 

— Huchery 85 

Etablissements baln(iaires. — 

Maison de sant6 Esquirol 50 

— Brides-les-Bains 50 

Menbles de jardin-. -Papier 

special Paquien 86 

— J . Vray 88 

Parfumerie Violet 89 

Restaurant-Hotel Boeuf a la Mode 86 

— Hotel du Gra)id-Cond6. . . 91 

— Hotel du Tibre 60 

Salles de bains. — Toilette.. Poincet 73 

'I'abletterie. — Bros.serie . Michaelis 74 

Trous.seaux pour homnies... Ghevallier 70 

— La "ies Tailors. . . Aynie 71 

Divers Trait^s des maladies d e 

la peau D' Bonnet 49 

Soius de la bouche Dentely 52 

Assurance centre le vol Assurance eontre le vol. 71 



D6sinfeclioiides a^^anements Sooldt6 franvais*> de d6. 

.p .. i J 1. , . sinfectioii '/"B 

J raitement de 1 obr^g^^ Proc6d6 russe. , . 90 

•■ LA TOILETEE 

Amazones(tailleiri. pour) etc.. Talon U 

^''^sets •^. •;..:...: Charar^l 5 

,^ . „ . .,, / EmmaGueile 5 

(.ostumes taiUeii^rs Jelinek! II 

,' Au vacht 1.") 



Dentelles 
[ygiene. 
cne, etc 



,T •>, oi Dalsheiraer (i 

I§^ Atn ~ "^^'^ ^'® ^^ *"^^'' ^^lanche Lpigh 3 

Eau de Saez 17 

Eau Dermophile 17 

Delonne ;iO 

Bonnaire ;M 

Bachelard 22 



Hauler conf^^tjoj^s Deuillet 9 

T ino-oT-j' — J, Legraiid 9 

a7°1 ■<^- — Ganterie Louvet 4 

-^^"".que E. Menesson 54 



^adulations, postiches Camille 

Photographie E . Eog6 19 

Robes. — Manteaux. — Trous- 
seaux, etc Biraben 7 

— fjonnardot 8 

Brenner 7 

Buzenet lo 

Contzen II 

Germaine 13 

L. Kirsch 7 

Ludinart 10 

— Raybois 8 

— A. Rabinnvski 10 

— Gh. Vasseur 8 

— Willy 11 

Tailleurs pour hommes, four- 

rures S. Katz -. 10 

■ — Kieffer Ki 

Voyages. — Malles, valises, 

etc E. Goyard 23 

— Bullv 23 

— Gipoulou 23 



Cfiauciiat. J^ant, 



Vte de'^KERATRY 



Paris Exposition 



1900 



Paris- Universel 



AMERICAN 
CICERONE 

low to see Paris 
Alone. 



i~y^ 




NEW YORK 

WILLIAM R. JENKINS 

Publisher and LNri-oRiER of Forkkin Books 

851 and 853 Sixth Avenue 

1900 

Firs/ Editio)i. 



41699 



LibPMry of Congress 
""wo COPtfS ReCEtVEO 

AUG 31 1900 

C*f /ngnt antry 

SECOND COPY. 

Oeliverad to 

ORDER DIVISION, 

i OCT 26 mnd 



COPYRIGHTED 
BY VTE. DE K^RATRY 

I Hog 



Louis Weiss & Co., Printers, Ii6 Fulton Street, New York. 




WILLIAM MCKINLEY 
President of the United States. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Preface 

Introduction 

CHAPTER I. 

The Selection of a Steamer I 

Agencies of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique — 2 

Precautions to be taken before sailing 3 

Passage Tickets 5 

The Departure 7 

On Board the Steamer 7 

Life on Board 9 

Description of the Vessel 1 1 

Nearing Land 13 

Landing at Havre 14 

Omnibus Rates of the Compagnie de I'Ouest 15 

Carriage Rates of the Compagnie de I'Ouest 15 

The Steamer's Train 16 

CHAPTER IL 

The Selection of a Hotel 17 

List of Hotels 17 

Leading Hotels or " Hotels de Grand Luxe " 18 

Reaching the Railroad Station in Paris 19 

The Choice of a Conveyance 19 

In the Baggage Room 20 

Baggage by Express 20 

At the Hotel 21 

Parisian Customs and Habits 21 

A few Practical Counsels 22 

French Coins and Bank Notes 23 

Exchange and Brokers 23 

American Embassy and Consulate 24 

Newspapers and Periodicals 24 

CHAPTER III. 

Definite Selection of Quarters 28 

At the Restaurant 28 

Parisian Cafes 30 

Tobacco and Cigar Stores 30 

Barber Shops and Bathing Establishments 31 

How to Ask and Find Your Way 34 

Communications by Telegraph, Cable, Telephone, Post. 35 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER IV. 

First Promenade on Foot 40 

Sight-seeing on the Rue de la Paix 40 

Place Vendome 42 

The Garden of the Tuileries 42 

Carriage Ride ^ . n 

CHAPTER V. 

A few Words of Explanation ct 

First Carriage Promenade c^ 

On the Boulevards 1-4 

The Opera 5j 

The Madeleine Church 5^ 

Rue Royale 5, 

Place de la Concorde 5c 

Avenue des Champ-Elysees 61; 

Place de I'Etoile and Arc de Triomphe 67 

Friedland Avenue 58 

Boulevard Haussmann 53 

Second Carriage Promenade yi 

Third Carriage Promenade ge 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Tuileries Garden gg 

The Luxembourg Garden go 

The Monceau Park oq 

The Squares qj 

The Garden of Plants (Jardin des Plantes) 93. 

The Park of the Buttes Chaumont 93 

Park of Montsouris q. 

The Churches „^ 

American Churches qr 

English Churches q- 

Protestant Churches qr 

Jewish Synagogues q^ 

The Cemeteries ,„. 

.. ...... ...... ...... . . J04 

The Museums jqc 

Public Buildings j j ^ 

CHAPTER VII. 

Theatres ,„, 

124 

The Comedie Frangaise j2^ 

The Od6on j - 

The Opera ^^ 

The Opera Comique _ j.. 

The Gymnase . „ 

The Vaudeville j „ 

The Varidtes j „ 

The Porte Saint-Martin j.q- 

TheAmbigu , ^^^ 



CONTENTS 

Theatre Ly rique lei 

The Theatre de la Renaissance 1 5 1 

The Nouveautes 151 

The Bouffes Parisiens 153 

Folies Dramatiques 153 

Theatre Sarah Bernhardt 153 

Chatelet 155 



Gaiete 



Concerts 



The Cafe Riche 



155 



The Palais Royal 155 

Cluny 157 

Ath^n^e Comique 11^7 

Theatre Antoine 157 



157 



The Concerts of the Conservatory 158 

Concerts Colonne 158 

Concerts Lamoureux 158 

The Auditions Musicales 158 

The Circuses i^g 

The Cirque d'Hiver 159 

The Cirque Palace 155 

Nouvcau Cirque icg 

The Cirque Medrano 160 

Music Malls 160 

The Folies-Bergere 160 

Casino de Paris 161 

The Jardin de Paris 161 

The Palais de Glace 161 

Le Moulin Rouge 161 

Cafes Concerts 162 

Parisiana i52 

Les Ambassadeurs 162 

Alcazar d'fite 162 

Divan Japonais 163 

The Scala 16^ 

Montniartre 161 

The Treteau de Tabarin j 63 

Grand Guignol 15. 

The Circles or Clubs 164 

Periodical Entertainments 165 

The Races 171 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The Hotel Mirabeau 178 



179 



Prominent Cafes and Restaurants 180 

Dentists 182 

Milliners and Dressmakers 183 

Photographers 1 84 

Doctors 184 

Champagne 185 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER IX. 

Stages (Omnibuses) 187 

Street Cars (Tramways) 190 

The Passenger Boats 190 

Paris- Auteuil Railway 190 

The Metropolitan 191 

Outings and Excursions 192 

St. Cloud 192 

Sevres 193 

Versailles 194 

The Park and Gardens of Versailles 197 

St. Germain 199 

Marly-le-Roi 201 

Fontainebleau 201 

Bicycle and Automobile Excursions 202 

CHAPTER X. 

The St. Lazare Station 206 

From Paris to Trouville 207 

Trouville-Deauville 208 

Dieppe 210 

Le Tr^port 211 

Fecamp 212 

Excursions to the Coasts of Normandy, Brittany, and the 

Island of Jersey 213 

Watering Places 219 

CHAPTER XI. 

Cannes, Nice, Menton, Monaco .^ 222 

Arrival at Marseilles 227 

Amusements at Marseilles 227 

Description of the Voyage from Marseilles to Algiers. .. 233 

Excursion outside of Algiers 235 

PART II. 

Exposition. 

The table of contents for this part will be found at the end of 

the book. 



PREFACE 



Monsieur: You have undertaken one of the 
most useful of tasks. I know nothing more pleas- 
urable than a good guide; in the street, in a new city, 
wherever it is, he who takes you by the hand is 
welcome. 

You seek to present Paris, that great Paris, our 
beloved Paris, to the Foreigner, and you escort our 
future guests from the steamship on which they em- 
bark to the hotel where they alight. With rare skill 
and excellent practical judgment you have made 
yourself their cicerone for the real Vie Parisienne, 
with this' difference, that you have given them, on 
the subject of our monuments and our habits, mat- 
ters of our daily life and of art, details and infor- 
mation drawn from the worthiest sources and cal- 
culated to give to your book real and lasting value. 
I have not controlled and I do not countersign all 
your personal estimates of the Parisians of 1900. 

I do congratulate you, and very sincerely, on hav- 
ing drawn a vivid, realistic picture of the new Paris, 
of the Paris of this closing and opening of a century. 
Your excellent guide, your Cicerone International, 
which is a sort of pocket edition of Paris, will be 
consulted as much in the future as to-day. 

And I like it because it makes one like Paris, the 
city the most worshipped and the most abused of all 
the world, that city where one is ever welcome, the 
city not to live in which would make me desolate had 
my lot condemned me to live elsewhere. "City of 
mud and smoke," said Jean Jacques, who, for that 
matter, might have said as much of any other city 



PREFACE 

where, surrounded by brick and mortar, he could 
only long for daisies. 

City of bustle and of thought, of pleasure also, but 
a delicate pleasure, whose very peculiarities carry 
with them I hardly know what artistic charm. Ah ! 
that Paris, you have found it out, Monsieur, from 
its Academies down to its very cabarets chatnoir- 
esques, and it is just that which gives the charm and 
value to your book. 

Je serai votre guide 
Dans la ville splendide 

runs the opera of Meilhac and Halevy. 

You could well say this yourself, and with more 
truth; I repeat it, and I foresee that the greater 
part of the visitors to this Exposition — grand dream 
of Art and of Industry — will have your bright and 
agreeable book in their baggage, just as we have our 
Joanne and the Germans their Baedeker. 

You are a pleasurable guide, of great charm of 
manner and of matter whom your future readers 
will take as much pleasure in following as I myself 
have just enjoyed. And in this connection, Mon- 
sieur, I wish you, with all my heart, the success 
which your valuable work deserves and will attain 
to. Devotedly yours, Jules Claretje. 

Paris, Nov. 9, 1899. 



NTRODUCTION 



"I foresee that the greater part of the visitors to 
this Exposition will have your bright and agreeable 
book in their baggage, just as we have our 'Joanne' 
and the Germans their Baedeker." 

Such are the words which the eminent Aca- 
demician in his all too flattering letter has addressed 
to me. In the midst of overwhelming occupations 
he has had the goodness to find a moment to devote 
to this work, which I dedicate, Reader, to you, about 
to be dazzled, for the first time, by the City of Light. 

Guide Joanne and Guide Baedeker ! These are 
words of learned men of world-wide fame. In the 
wake of such masters, what can he do who makes 
no pretension to new learning? The author has 
no pretension of that sort. 

He has sought not to deal with erudition, but with 
practical information. His ambition is to be prac- 
tical, the most practical of all the guides. To this 
end he has thought it well to take the traveler at his 
starting point, in order to have time to bring to his 
notice the precautions necessary to rid the voyage of 
annoyance. 

To spare the reader worriment and disagreeable 
surprises has been the continual purpose and sole 
object of these lines. 

I have thought that after pointing out the sights 
of the capital it would not be wise to discourse on 
wherein their beauty lies, or in the museums to call 
attention to such or such a picture as a masterpiece. 
Such a course would be unjust to the reader, who, by 
implication, would be made to appear incapable of 



INTRODUCTION 

discerning for himself the beauties before him. It has 
been, on the other hand, a point to put forward such 
information as the Foreigner could not work out for 
himself : practical details ; means of transportation ; 
customs of the city ; everything contained in it which 
is worth seeing; in short, to add to comfort, to 
economize time and money and to help in avoiding 
imposition. Have I succeeded? The future will 
answer. In any case, I ask indulgence, and if im- 
portant information be found lacking, that it be 
made known to me, not in a spirit of bitterness, but 
rather with thoughts dwelling on days when I may 
have rendered effective service. 

ViCOMTE H. DE KeRATRY. 

December, 1899. 



PART I. 



PARIS 



CHAPTER I 



FROM NEW YORK TO HAVRE 



The Selection of a Steamer 

Once decided upon the date of departure, the first thing to 
do is to select the steamer which will take you to France. 
There are several companies engaged in the passenger traffic 
between the United States and Europe. Each has its good 
points, and oftentimes, when one sees in the newspapers 
that a steamer has made the voyage in six days, you may 
hear him exclaim : " This is the steamer for me ! " 

I would probably be of the same opinion if I undertook to 
make a purely business trip, notwithstanding that the most 
rapid racer of yesterday is not always victorious in the race of 
to-morrow. For it has quite often happened that a steamship 
line with a great reputation for speed has been beaten by 
the new steamer of a company considered slow until then. 

Be that as it may, we have to deal in this instance with a 
purely pleasure trip, and the question of comfort is therefore 
of paramount importance. You cannot and should not 
sacrifice your comfort for the sake of shortening your sea 
trip by a few hours. I am one of those whose experience 
make them prefer being even eight days on board a steamer 
in a comfortable cabin, surrounded by experienced and 
polite attendants, sitting at a table luxuriously served and 
partaking of a most refined cuisine whose dishes are specially 
concocted to triumph over the most rebellious appetite, to 
being transported in fifteen hours less time in a steamer 
where everything is sacrificed to speed, and where you 
receive hardly any more consideration than a piece of lug- 
gage ; luggage, to be sure, which is relegated into a cabin for 
which you pay a very high price and in which you are very 
uncomfortable. 

If we are of the same opinion on that point, let us seek 
together those steamers offering the greatest amount of com- 
fort. The task will be easily accomplished by referring to 
the Table of Contents of this very book. The sole and only 
steamship line that serves an absolutely perfect table, in all 
its appointments, is the French Transatlantic Company. 



2 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

This point is universally recognized by the transatlantic 
travelling public. On board the steamers of that Company 
the perfection is not solely limited to the question of food, 
the cabins are real rooms and the punctilious attendance 
surrounding the passenger is nowhere else to be found at an 
equal degree. 

" That may be all true," some will answer, " but the 
steamers of that line make port after the steamers of some 
of the other lines." — Well, in my estimation, to arrive in Paris 
at five o'clock on Friday afternoon by a direct line, instead 
of arriving at noon by an indirect route, after numberless 
transhipments of many annoying kinds, does not weigh in 
the balance — the few hours gained assuredly do not com- 
pensate for the fatigue endured nor for the variety of discom- 
fort experienced. Moreover, one should not lose sight of 
the tediousness of the passage on board of a steamer with a 
cabin where you are ill at ease with an uninviting table for 
consolation. In this case, your sole enjoyment lies in the 
anticipation of being relieved of your misery on reaching 
port. On the contrary with the French line, as I have heard 
it expressed a hundred times, you find yourself regretting 
that the passage has not been of a longer duration. 

But I will take the liberty here to remark that if all the 
steamers of the French Transatlantic Steamship Company 
are not classed in the category of greyhounds, the Company 
will supplement its fleet during the Exposition with two 
superb new steamers. La Lorraine and La Savoie. They are 
an improvement upon the famous La Touravte, which has 
lowered many records, and it is said of the new additions 
to the fleet, that their equal in beauty and speed will not be 
found afloat for a long time to come. In thus advising you, 
I assure you pleasure, speed and comfort — enough to satisfy 
the most exacting. 

The French Transatlantic Company has agencies in all 
the large cities, where tickets can be purchased. The follow- 
ing table will furnish you the necessary information upon 
that point : 

Agencies of the Compagnie Generale Trail satlantique 

Company's Head Office, 6 Rue Auber, Paris 

Branch Offices in Paris 
Cabin Passengers, 12 Boulevard des Capucines (Grand Hotel). 
General Ticket Office (under Terminus Hotel). 
Steerage Passengers, 6 Rue Auber. 
Freight, 5 Rue des Mathurins. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 3 

Principal Agencies 
L. Boyer, Principal Agent, 43 Quai d'Orleans, Havre. 
A. A. Salmon, Gen'l Agent, 36 Leadenhall St., London. 
Robert Emmet, Asst. Agent, 28 Chapel St., Liverpool. 

Principal America7i Agencies 
New York City : Eug. de Bocande, 32 Broadway. 
Boston, Mass.: Duncan Bailly-Blanchard, 103 State Street. 
Baltimore, Md.: Arthur W. Kobson, 133 E. Baltimore Street. 
Chicago, 111.: M, W. Kozminski, 71 Dearborn Street. 
New Orleans, La.: M. Orfila, 213 Carondelet Street. 
Philadelphia, Pa.: Jos E. Miller, 131 So. Fifth Street. 
San Francisco, Cal.: J. F. Fuga/i & Co., 5 .Montgomery Ave. 
Washington, D. C: G. W. Moss. 921 Pennsylvania Ave. 
Montreal, Canada: J. de Sieyes, 1672 Notre-Dame Street. 

When everything is taken into consideration, the price for 
the first cabins on the steamers of this line are undoubtedly 
moderate, but in regard to the rates asked for the second 
cabin, one is at a loss to understand how the Company can, 
for so modest a sum, give its passengers so comfortable 
quarters and serve a table almost equal — for the variety and 
daintiness of comestibles — and assuredly as abundant as 
that served in the first cabin. All of this leads the travelling 
public to make comparisons between the Compagnie Gene- 
rale Transatlantique and its competitors for public patronage, 
with the invariable verdict favoring the French line in about 
the following ratio : while its first-class cabins are beyond 
all comparisons, its second-class cabins are on a par with the 
first-class cabins of any other line — the same comparative 
gradation running throughout the scale. This is a matter 
well worthy the serious consideration of the travelling public. 

Precautions to be Taken Before Sailing 

One of the most essential conditions for traveUing with 
ease is the sufficiency of ready funds. However, it is im- 
prudent to carry about you a large sum of money which 
may keep you in a state of uneasiness. You can easily 
obviate this inconvenience by taking with you merely the 
sum necessary for current expenses and depositing the bulk 
of your money with a banking-house, taking in exchange a 
letter of credit. This will relieve you of all cares on that 
score. On the other hand, you should ascertain before 
parting with your money, that you are dealing not alone 
with a responsible house, but you must have also the abso- 
lute assurance of its uncontrovertible expeditiousness, in 
order that once in Paris, or in any other European city, you 
are not made to wait indefinitely for funds because the 
New York house has failed to notify in time its European 



4 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

correspondent. You will not experience any such drawbacl 
by dealing with John Munroe & Co , 32 Nassau Street, New 
York, who issue letters of credit for the use of travellers, ii 
pounds sterling and francs. }n Paris, travellers holding thest 
credits will find the offices of Messrs. Munroe & Co., No. 7 
Rue Scribe, most conveniently situated, near the Opera 
House and the hotels so much frequented by Americans 
Messrs. Munroe & Co. open deposit accounts for travellen 
subject to chsque, purchase and sell drafts on the United 
States, etc. 

If you are not a resident of New York, and without 
place in the city where letters or telegrams can reach you, 
give instructions to have them addressed directly on board 
ship, mentioning the name of the steamer upon which yoi 
have secured passage. 

All letters and telegrams received on board are placed 
upon the middle table in the parlor and remain on board 
until the last minute before leaving. The head-waiter, who 
speaks English, and who is at his post at the head of the 
main gangway, welcoming passengers on board, will give 
you all necessary information on the matter. 

Letters and telegrams can also be received on arrival at 
Havre. The tugboat whicli meets the steamer an hour 
before docking, brings the mail and dispatches, which are 
immediately distributed among the passengers. Advise all 
your would-be correspondents when addressing their missives 
to carefully inscribe: i. (Your name). 2. [Steatner's 
name), 3. {Code word : Transat.). 4. Havre. 

If you can receive telegrams, you also can send them until 
the very last moment before sailing, while on the arrival of 
the steamer on the other side the head-waiter will see that 
any message, by cable or land, is immediately dispatched. 
But here, allow me to give you a bit of information equally 
useful, for that matter, to those who may have to cable you 
during your stay in Europe — i. e., all such dispatches from 
New York should bear the extra direction "via P. Q." 
(no charge for these two words), because the French Cable 
Company having the only direct cable between the United 
States and France, its service is naturally the most rapid. 

There is another very essential precaution to be taken 
before sailing. It is not alone the choice of a hotel, but that 
of securing a room in the hotel you have selected. In 
Chapter II, you will find the necessary information upon 
that subject. By neglecting to take this precaution you will 
expose yourself, especially in Exposition times, to canvass 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 5 

lotel after hotel without finding a suitable room, and be 
orced at last to lodge in miserable quarters. Such a begin- 
iing is of a nature to spoil your trip ; on the other hand, 
vith an ordinary amount of foresight, you will avoid all 
nnoyances susceptible to mar your sojourn in Paris. There- 
ore, some time before taking the steamer, you will have 
written to Paris for a room in the hotel of your choice, 
tating exactly, in accordance with the informations given 
m this subject in Chapter II of this Guide, the price you are 
v'illing to pay, the accommodation you require, and the date 
ou expect to take possession. If before stepping on board 
ou have neglected taking this precaution, you should give 
he head-waiter a cablegram formulated as follows (pads of 
ilank messages are to be found on the dining-room table) : 

Via P. Q. (via Frenc/i) 

Hotel 

Mo Street Paris 

ArriT'iiig [here give day and name of steamer] retain 

room francs. 

[Signature.] 

In Chapter III, we give the cable rates — which are the 
ame with all companies — advising to specify vza FrencJi. 

It is proper that I should add a last advice to all those I 
ave already given — and which may probably be considered 
uerile by those who are accustomed to cross the Atlan- 
ic, but it may be very useful to those who cross for the first 
ime and for whom this work is specially written. There- 
:)re, if, for any reason whatever, you entertain any doubt 
bout either your right of taking presents into France, or are 
1 need of information about French law, I advise you to call 
t the French Consulate, 35 South William Street, New 
'ork City. Mr. Bruwaert, the Consul General of France in 
Jew York, with his native amiability, will give you any 
iformation desired on those points. 

Passage Tickets 

We shall now speak about the manner of securing your 
lassage and berth. Those who reside in any other city than 
■lew York, will find at page 3 the address of the branch 
gencies of the Conipagnie Generale Transatlantique, where 
hey can provide themselves with passage tickets. If you 
eside in New York, or reach the city without having pre- 
iously secured your passage, you should call at the prin- 
ipal office of the Company, No. 32 Broadway. At the head- 
uarters, as at the agencies, you will be shown the diagram 
idicating the interior appointments of the steamer whose 



6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

departure coincide with the date you have fixed for sailing to 
Europe. The clerk will point out on the diagram the berths 
yet unsold and corresponding with the amount you intend 
paying. It seems superfluous for me to state that at the 
New York headquarters and on hoard the steamers of the 
Company the Engh'sh language is as fluently spoken as the 
French — Spanish is also generally spoken on board. 

But, in regard to your cabin, I feel here hke intruding with 
an advice which is especially intended for the tourist with fair 
means. If your trip is one of pleasure, an expense of twenty 
dollars more or less is not, after all, to be considered. There- 
fore, •! advise you to take an upper-deck cabin, but you will 
have to speak a long time ahead, for they are much sought 
after. During the last Paris Exposition the line had to refuse, 
on an average, over two hundred passengers every trip of its 
steamers. This is explained, not alone by the fact that the 
American public knows how to appreciate the comfortable 
existence one has on board the French steamers, but also 
because the French line is the Company which lands its 
passengers but four hours distant from Paris. 

I am so much in favor of securing on board the greatest 
comfort attainable, that I should strain a point, even to 
the extent of suggesting to spend one dollar per day less 
while in Paris, and engage, if at all possible, one of those 
cabtnes de luxe, in which you have all the luxury of a room 
at a first-class hotel, with private baths and toilet, especially 
if you can secure it on board La Touraine, IS Aguitaine, 
or on one of the two new steamers. La Lorraine or La 
Savoie. 

With your cabin and railroad tickets — for at Havre a 
special train carries the passengers to Paris on the arrival of 
the steamer — you will receive two blanks to be filled by you, 
they are as follows : 

CABIN BAGGAGE 

Berth No 

A/ame 

S. S. : 

Sailing igoo 

Cabin Bagp;age intended for Paris must be 
registered on hoard before arrival at Havre. 

HOLD BAGGAGE 
Must be registered on the dock before sailing. 
Passengers can have it checked on Wednes- 
day afternoon previous to departure. 

Name 

S. S 

Sailing igoo 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 7 

With your passage ticket secured and your luggage 
checked, you have but to wait for the hour of sailing. 

In the event of your having been unable, owing to unfore- 
seen circumstances or negligence, to secure your passage in 
advance, you can do so on the steamer's wharf up to the 
last hour of sailing, provided there are any berths left, but 
do not count upon such good luck in the summer time, much 
less in Exposition times. 

Before advising you on matters specially affecting your 
comfort on board, I will give you an additional item of 
information of which many Parisians are not cognizant. If 
you have a friend in Paris who proposes to meet you at 
the railroad station, in order that he should not miss the 
arrival of the special train, write him to call at the head- 
quarters of the Compagnie Gen^rale Transatlantique, No. 6 
Rue Auber, requesting for a telegram to be sent informing 
him of the hour passengers by your steamer will reach the 
Saint-Lazare station. He will thus receive the news six hours 
before your arrival in Paris, and lo cents will cover the cost 
of the service. 

The Departure 

On reaching the wharf, with your baggage carefully checked 
and counted, you should point out to the porters on the dock 
the pieces intended for the hold, and have them carried 
to the scales to be weighed by the Company's employes, 
to whom you show your ticket, and who will give you a 
small check for the number of pieces to be placed in the 
hold. You present this small check at the office in front 
of the first gangway, where, upon exhibiting your cabin 
ticket, the clerk will retain it in exchange for a bill of 
lading, which you must keep in a secure place, because, on 
landing in Havre you will need it to claim your baggage ; if 
lost, you would be subjected to great inconvenience before 
recovering your belongings. Return then to your hand par- 
cels, attendants are there awaiting your orders to carry them 
in your cabin. You are aware that Saratoga trunks are not 
tolerated in the cabins — a small flat trunk, known as s. cabin 
trunk, is all that is allowed. 

You should reach the steamer's dock at least one or two 
hours before sailing time, in order to avoid haste and con- 
fusion. 

On Board the Steamer 

Stepping on Board.— Free of cares, walk up to the 
gangway. On reaching the deck you will meet the head- 



8 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

waiter at the landing of the staircase which leads to the 
cabins. Show him your ticket and ask the way to your 
cabin, to which you will proceed immediately and ascertain 
whether all your parcels are there. If anything is missing, 
press the electric button at the side of the berth and the 
waiter who has charge of your quarters will come imme- 
diately and straighten matters. 

Having ascertained that all your parcels are on board, 
you are free to quietly return to the deck, and enjoy 
at ease the animated scene presented on board a large 
steamer on the eve of sailing. But if you have a dispatch to 
send or "a letter to write, ask the head-waiier or a. £-ar(on 
(waiter) — all speak English — to show you the parlor, where 
you will find the necessary writing material and blanks. 
Intrust letters and dispatches to the care of the head-waiter, 
and you may rest assured that neither will go astray through 
his neglect. 

If friends and relatives have come on board to bid you 
don voyage, do not feel anxious about the danger of their 
remaining too long and being carried off. An employe goes 
around ringing a first bell, which is the signal for the final 
adieus ; while the second bell, which is rung a little later, 
warns you that in a few minutes the gangways will be re- 
moved — the time has come for your friends and relatives to 
leave. 

Leaving the Dock. — The gangways have been heaved 
down, the regulation ear-splitting blasts have been sounded 
by the steamer's whistle, the huge floating mass slowly glides 
off the dock, myriads of handkerchiefs flutter, the loving 
hand shoots the parting kiss, the vessel has cleared its watery 
cradle, the friendly faces grow less distinct, you are off for 
the shores of France ! 

Speeding slowly over the last stretch of the Hudson River, 
with the metropolis and its giraffe-like sky-scrapers on the 
left, while on the right the State of New Jersey unfolds a 
panorama of intercepted heights and swamps (dignifiedly 
called meadows), you suddenly enter the inner bay, leaving 
on your right the Statue of Liberty, fruitlessly Enlightening 
the World ; a few turns of the screw and you have reached 
the straight dividing Long Island from Staten Island, and 
which leads into the incomparable bay of New York proper, 
thence through the Narrows— passing the Quarantine, with 
Coney Island, Rockaway and Long Beach successively on 
your left, and the imposing Highlands of Navesink on your 
forward right, you finally pass through the Sandy Hook 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 9 

channel, the gateway to the ocean, where the steamer is 
given rein after dismissing the pilot. 

Having reached the high sea, the spectacle assumes the 
monotony of blue skies and dark green waters, the moment 
is well chosen to seek your cabin in order to gather your 
valuables into a box or parcel along with the bulk of your 
money, keeping only enough pocket money for the trip. 
You intrust it to the steward ; if the total value is over $i,ooo, 
he will give you a receipt, and tax you at the rate of one per 
cent.; if you desire, he will also receipt for a lesser amount — 
this will relieve you of all anxiety during the trip. Notwith- 
standing that nothing should be feared on the part of the 
employes of the Company, this precaution should not be 
neglected. Little is known about the character of many of 
the passengers, and it may happen, as in the case of many 
hotels, that an unscrupulous gentleman might proceed with 
a domiciliary visit to your cabin while you are dreamily 
reposing on deck. 

Moreover, the steward, as its name implies, is not merely 
a commissary general, but he is at the same time the cashier 
of the board. He is the dispenser of favors as well as the 
righter of wrongs ; therefore, if you have any particular claims 
to make or favors to ask, you should have recourse to him. 

For instance, if you are in the second cabins, and desires, 
for one reason or another, to change to first cabins ; or again, 
if you want to change your cabin for a better and a higher 
priced one, it is with the steward that those matters should 
be settled. He will operate the change for you, and charge 
pro rata for the remaining days of the trip. 

You should also, at the veiy beginning of the voyage — 
unless you have brought yoiir own, or have secured one in 
taking your ticket, or that you have decided to cloister your- 
self in your cabin — secure a reclining chair, for which a 
charge of one dollar is made. 

Life ou Board 

On the first day, especially with the noon breakfast — 
which on that day is not served at the regular hour — places 
at the table being yet unassigned, everybody sits where he 
pleases. However, do not infer from this experience that 
life on board is not regulated. Already, at the dinner in the 
evening, the head-waiter will assign you at the table a place 
which you will occupy during the whole voyage. 

Since we are speaking about meals — one of the principal 
distractions on board — I will here give you the hours at 



lO HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

which they are served. As early as 7 in the morning, you 
will hear the sound of a bell through the passageways. It 
announces the first or small breakfast, which is served until 
9 o'clock. If, through habit or indolence, you do not care 
rising before 9, the waiter (for men) or the chambermaid 
(for women) will bring you the coffee in your cabin. You 
have the privilege — although it is not customary with the 
French — to order a regular breakfast, such as you may be 
accustomed to partake of while at hoine, but as the regular 
breakfast will be served at 11 o'clock, it is considered unad- 
visable to load one's stomach at so early an hour. 

The regular breakfast lasts from 1 1 until i o'clock. This 
implies that every one drops along at his or her own sweet 



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HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE II 

will. It is not expected that you should appear in an 
elaborate toilet at this meal ; however, a too accentuated 
neglige would assuredly be improper. 

The dinner is more dressy, and you are expected to make 
your appearance in correct form. It is served punctually at 
6.30, and ordinarily lasts about two hours. 

If, between meal times — or at any time, for that matter — 
you should feel hungry, the waiters on deck will bring you 
chicken, roastbeef or ham sandwiches. 

The hours of meals — regular breakfast and dinner — are 
rung on deck and in the passageways. The first belPis rung 
half an hour before meals, to give you time to prepare, and 
the second bell at the precise time set for the meal. 

A comfortable bathing-room is near your cabin, with an 
attendant who will have everything in readiness if you fix in 
advance the hour at which you desire taking your daily bath. 
When you retire at night leave your shoes at the door to be 
polished. There is also a barber shop on board, in charge 
of a competent barber. 

One of the most agreeable pastimes on board is to remain 
on deck, contemplating the immensity of the ocean, and in 
turn pursue the reading of an interesting book. You can buy 
at the ship's well-stocked library English and French works. 

At twelve o'clock noon, the steamer's whistle lets out a shrill 
blast which announces the exact time of the day. Regulate 
your watch — which will be about forty minutes slow — other- 
wise, on landing in France it would be five hours and a half 
behind time. Twelve o'clock is the time for the navigator 
to ascertain the position of the ship and to compute the run 
made in the previous twenty-four hours. On the marine 
chart, hung in the stairs leading to the parlor, a small flag 
indicates the position of the ship, and below the number of 
miles covered. 

Description of the Vessel 

The steamers of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique 
being built upon two distinct models, it becomes necessary, 
in order to give an adequate idea of the distribution specially 
affecting the appointments reserved to the passengers, to 
describe in turn one type each of the two models. 

On board La Gascogne, La Breiagne and La Cham- 
pagne, the gangway which leads to that portion of the main 
deck reserved to third-class cabins faces the door opening 
on the main stairway at the left of the parlor; immediately 
underneath, and thiough the railed aperture in the centre of 



12 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

the parlor, is seen the great dining-saloon, with passageways 
at its four corners, along which cabins are distributed on 
both sides. After going through the dining-saloon and the 
passageway on the right, a staircase leads to the smoking- 
room, with port-holes and doors opening on the main deck. 
The spar-deck above— which is the promenade deck— runs 
the full length of the ship. It is shaded by awnings, and the 
ship's boats are fastened along the railing. " 

In the new vessels, La Tottraine, L'Aquitamc, La Savoie 
and La Lorraitie, these various accommodations are raised 
one story. The large dining-saloon is replaced by a small 
dining-room for children, and above, on the main deck, is 
found the large dining-room, while one story still higher,' at 
the centre of the spar or promenade deck, is the parlor, with 




HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 13 

the smoking-room forward, and aft about ten large cabins, 
with baths and toilets. A promenade over three yards wide, 
on each side, affords plenty of room for exercise. 

Attached to the bath-rooms, on board of all steamers of 
the Company, is a boudoir for ladies wishing to rest. 

The dining-room has a capacity of two hundred and fifty 
covers, spread upon three long tables and two rows of small 
tables, with revolving seats screwed to the floor, thus pre- 
venting crowding. When the number of guests exceeds the 
seating capacity, two dinners are successively served. 

In the interval between meals, this luxurious dining-room 
is transformed into a parlor, and the tables, cleared and 
decorated, are covered with rich red cloth. Here you can 
write or read, and until 1 1 P. M. the waiters in attendance 
will serve anything you may desire. 

The parlor is provided, on its four sides, with upholstered 
divans and has a rich library where you can purchase the 
latest works. When fatigued by promenading in the open 
air, you can retire in this parlor and read the three or four 
first chapters of this book, in order to be familiarized with 
its contents before reaching Paris. 

The smoking-room — which is open until 11 P. M. — is re- 
served, as its name implies, to men for smoking, card-playing 
and talking. A waiter is always in attendance ; he will serve 
you sandwiches and drinks. Naturally, you will find here 
smoking tobacco, cigars and cigarettes of the Company's 
selection ; all excellent, but moderate in price. 

Neariu^ Land 

After six days' ordinary sailing the time is approaching 
when land will loom up on the horizon. In the vague dis- 
tance you begin to perceive a greyish speck, which increases 
in size and density until you are told that it is Point Bishop, 
a promontory on the Scilly Islands. But it is only six hours 
later, at the Lizard, that in the day-time the steamer unfurls 
at the bow a set of blue, white and red flags, or shows lights 
of the same colors at night, and is signalled to Paris and 
Havre, where the transatlantic train is ordered to be made up. 

The first light made out on the coasts of France, about 
one hundred miles from Havre, is that of the Casquets, on 
the reefs of Aurigny ; thence fifty miles further on appears 
the ten-second double flash light of Barfleur, and, finally, 
the five-second flash light of Cape H^ve, which marks the 
entrance to the port of Havre. 



14 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

In the day-time, four hours from Havre, you will succes- 
sively notice on the starljoard first Cotentin, then the Cape 
of the Hague, Cherbourg, Barfieur and last the Heve, behind 
which are masked St. Adresse and Havre. But before 
making Cape Heve the steamer slows down for the pilot to 
come aboard. 

About one hour from Havre you will make out a tugboat, 
a small model of La Touraine, speeding towards the 
steamer. It is the Titan, the powerful tug of the Company. 
It has on board the mail and dispatches for the passengers, 
and files of the New York Herald. The tug follows and 
will help the steamer in its evolutions. The time has now 
come to make ready for landing. 



Landing at Havre 

On the eve of your arrival at Havre, the head-waiter goes 
around the cabins with an aid, and pastes a numbered label 
upon your steamer trunk and those parcels you do not care 
to take on the train. He will give you a counterpart of that 
numbered label, which you should keep with the baggage- 
check received in New York. This again will relieve you of 
all baggage cares until Paris is reached. 

According to circumstances, there are two modes of land- 
ing — if the steamer has to wait for the tide to make her 
dock, the tugboat comes alongside and lands those of the 
passengers who prefer to await in Havre, at the Hotel 
Frascati, for the fast train, or chance it upon an ordinary 
train, for which your railroad ticket is good ; however, no 
baggage, except your small parcels, is allowed ashore — all 
baggage has to go by the steamer's fast train. 

When the steamer makes fast to the dock — either directly 
or after having laid at anchor for the tide — the time is well 
chosen to hand the head-waiter your dispatches, giving him 
at the same time a fee in proportion to the services rendered. 
The table waiter and cabin boy, or chambermaid, are ordi- 
narily tipped after the last meal taken on board. 

If you have more than one trunk, I would advise you to 
wire the Compagnie de I'Ouest for a conveyance, stating 
the number of persons in your party. This will save you 
much annoyance. Your telegram should be addressed to 
the station master as follows : Chef-Gare, Saint-Lazare, 
Paris, stating the number of persons, train, name of hotel, 
and signature. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I5 

Omnibus Rates of the Compagrnie (le I'Ouest 



OMNIBUS ET VOITURES DE 
LA CQMPAGNIE 

Omnibus de famille 


OMNIBUS AND COACH 
RATES 

Family Omnibus 


Bagage (30 Kilos par 
voyageur) compris : 


436 
places 


18 a 22 
places 


Privilege of 67 lbs. 
baggage fur each. 


Seating 
4 to 6 


Seating 
18 to 22 


De 6 h, du ma- 
tin a minuit. . 

De minuit a 6 h. 
dii matin .... 

Siirtaxe pour arret 
en route : 

Sur I'itineraire. . 

Entrainant un 

detour 

Courses extra-mu- 
ros, de gre a gre. 


fr. 5.00 
6.00 

1. 00 
2.50 


fr. 12 
15 

3 
3 


From 6 A. M. un- 
til midnight.. 

From midnigiit 
until 6 A. M 

Extra for stopping ; 

On the direct 

itinerary .... 

Outside do. do. 

Fix prices in ad- 
vance outside Paris. 


5 frs. 

6 " 

I " 

2h " 


12 frs. 
15 " 

3 " 
3 " 



Carriage Rates of the Compagnie de I'Ouest 



Voitures de remise a 4 places et a 
galeries pour bagages 

Interieur de Paris, surtaxe pour 
bagages: i colis, 25 c; 2 colis, 50 c; 3 
coils, et plus, 75 c. 



De 6 h. mat. en ete 
et de 7 h. mat. en 
hiver a minuit 30: 



La course. 
L'heure.. . 



De minuit 30 a 6 h 
du mat. en ete et 
a 7 h. du matin en 
hiver : 

La course. . . . 
L'heure 



Non rc- 
tenue a 
I'avance 



fr. 2.00 
2.50 



2.50 
2.75 



Rete- 

nue i 

I'avance 



fr.3-50 

3-50 



4- 50 
4.50 



Coach seating 4 with railed tops 
for baggage 

Inside Paris. Extra for baggage: 
I piece, }i fr. ; 2 pieces, ^ fr.; 3 pieces 
or more, ^ fr. 



From 6 a. m. sum- 
mer & y A. M. vifin- 
ter till 12.30 A. M 



The ride 

The hour 

From 12.30 A. M. 
until 6 A. M. sum- 
mer, and 7 A. M. 
winter. 

The ride 

The hour 



If not If hired 
hired in in 
advance advance 



2 frs. 

2i " 



2i " 
2f " 



si frs. 

3i " 



4i " 
4i " 



If you have not retained a room at the hotel, it is yet 
time to do so by sending a telegram worded as at page 5, 
adding the time of your arrival ; and in case you have cabled 
for a room, it is prudent to wire the hour of your arrival. 

Meantime, the gangways have been made fast to the ship, 
and the passengers are descending upon the wharf. They 
file in front of the custom officers, who examine the small 
parcels, which are afterwards carried by the waiters on 
board the train. The heavy baggage is examined in Paris, 
so you have now but to wait for the departure of the train, 
which takes place about one hour after landing. 



I6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

The Steamer's Train 

It is an American vestibule train, modeled after the 
Pullman's (belonging to \S\& Conipagnie Internationale des 
Wagons-Lits), and composed of five passenger cars and a 
restaurant car, in which eatables and drinkables are served 
in first-class style. Besides the regular train crew, and 
the staff of the restaurant car who both speak French and 
English, there is on the train a representative of the Com- 
pagnie Transatlantique and an interpreter, to whom you 
may have recourse in case you need their services on your 
arrival in Paris, as explained in the following chapter. 

You now travel on a branch of the trunk line known as the 
Compagnie de I'Ouest, which is one of the best equipped 
roads amoiig the great continental lines. The distance 
between Havre and Paris is made in about four hours, 
traversing a country under the highest state of cultivation, 
where every inch of soil is tilled and made to produce. 
Quiet hamlets and villages, busy towns and beautiful cities 
in turn appear and vanish until the iron-horse, feverishly 
burning the space, draws the train at the Saint-Lazare sta- 
tion in Paris. 



CHAPTER II 



A FIRST INSIGHT OF PARIS 



The Selection of a Hotel 

As stated in the preceding chapter, during the Exposi- 
tion the three or four large hotels with which foreigners are 
1 uuiliar will be so crowded that it will be difficult to secure 
(|uarters in any of them. But there are other hotels, superior 
ill every respect — you should not forget that size does not 
signify quality — where you can secure very comfortable quar- 
ters, provided you take the precaution of writing in time for 
it. An ordinary room will cost from five to six francs, but 
there are rooms quoted as high as 40 francs per day ; how- 
ever, real and complete comfort, without luxury, can be 
secured in these hotels for twelve francs for one person or 
fifteen francs for two. 

Unless you are deterred from doing so by family reasons 
or for acquaintance's sake, it is preferable to live on the 
right bank of the Seine. You should be particular about 
the neighborhood, not merely on account of its distance 
from the centre of the city — five minutes' walk more or less 
is no matter — but you should be in the proximity of all the 
advantages Paris offers its inhabitants, instead of being 
relegated to a solitary street in a dormant quarter, for it 
is very disagreeable for a stranger to walk home at night 
through deserted streets. Moreover, the facilities and throb- 
bing life afforded by the great boulevards, should favor the 
selection of a hotel in their vicinity. We do not piopose 
recommending one hotel in preference to another, all are 
equally deserving. We give the rates of each, leaving the 
traveller to make a choice in due time and thus avoid all 
possible disappointment. 

List of Hotels 

Hotel Meurice, No. 228 Rue de Rivoli, facing on the 
Tuileries ; rooms from 6 frs., dinner 6 frs., wine extra. Hotel 
Brighton, at No. 218, same street and same prices. Hotel 
St. James and Albany, at No. 202, rooms from 4 to 15 frs., 



15 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

meals from 4 to 6 frs. and 6 to 8 frs., wine extra. On the 
Place Vendome, the hotels Bristol, du Rhin and Vendome, 
all three under the same management. On the Rue de 
Castiglione, No. 6, the Hotel Metropole, rooms from 6 frs., 
dinner 6 frs., wine extra ; at No. 12, the Hotel Castiglione ; 
at No. 4, Hotel Balmoral, rooms from 7 frs., meals 4 to 
6 frs. On the Rue de la Paix, at No. 8, Hotel Mirabeau, 
rooms 6 to 8 frs.; at No. 11, Hotel de Westminster ; at No„ 
18, Hotel de Hollande ; at No. 22, Hotel des lies Britan- 
niques. On the Avenue de I'Opera, at No. 30, Hotel Belle- 
vue, rooms from 4 to 15 frs., meals from 5 to 7 frs.; at No. 22, 
the Hotel des Deux-Mondes. On the Rue Royale, Hotel 
Maxii7i. On the Boulevard des Capucines, No. 37, there is 
the hotel named after the boulevard, with rooms at 5 to 15 
frs., and meals 4 to 6 frs. On the Boulevard des Italiens, at 
No. 32, the Hotel de Bade, and at No. 3 the Hotel de Russie. 
The Hotel Beau-Scjour is at No. 30 Boulevard Poissonniere. 
Not quite so centrally situated, we find, at No. 16 Rue de la 
'^\&xd2a'~,'3iTLC^\h^ Hotel Alexandra, day-boarding, 9 to 12 frs. 
No. 14 Rue Caumartin, //c^/^/^^ /« Grande-Bretagne. On 
the Place Louvois the Hotel Louvois. Hotel Britannia, 
No. 24 Rue d' Amsterdam. Central Hotel, No. 40 Rue du 
Louvre. Hotel Cusset, Rue Richelieu. Hotel Foyot, Rue 
de Tournon. Hotel Lavenue, at the railway station Mont- 
parnasse. Finally, on the Champs-Elysees, the Hotel 
Meyerbeer, at the cycle {rond-point). The Hotel d'Albe, 
No. loi Avenue des Champs-Elysees, with rooms at 5 to 
12 frs., and meals 5 to 7 frs. There are also several new 
hotels recently constructed on the Trocadero and at Passy, 
with Principal offices at No. 5 Boulevard des Capucines. 

Leading Hotels or " Hotels de (irand Luxe " 

The Palace Hotel, No. 103 Avenue des Champs-Elysees, 
is located in a sumptuous and newly erected edifice, with all 
the modern appliances for comfort, rooms from 7 to 50 frs., 
meals 6 to 8 frs. //(j/^/i?//^', on the Place Vendome; the 
Grattd Hotel, 12 Boulevard des Capucines ; Hotel Continen- 
tal, 3 Rue de Castiglione; Grand Hotel du Louvre, 172 
Rue de Rivoli ; Hotel Terminus, at the Saint-Lazare rail- 
road station. All of these hotels charge about the same prices 
— from 4 to 40 frs. for rooms and 5 to 8 frs. for meals. The 
Hotel Moderne, on the Place de la Republique, belongs to 
the same category, although its charges are more moderate, 
with rooms at 3 to 15 frs. and meals 4 to 5 frs. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 19 

Reaching' the Railroad Station in Paris 

Upon the arrival of the train at the station, porters come 
aboard to take charge of your small packag-es, which you 
should first gather in your place, ascertaining their number. 
If you have but one grip-sack and three or four small 
parcels, you will need but one porter. Tell him — or have 
the interpreter which is on tht; train tell him for you — to 
carry the parcels to your carriage. 

The Choice of a Conyeyance 

If it has not been ot'dered in advance. — Here you are 
again facing the carriage problem, which has been partially 
explained in the preceding chapter, when we inferred that 
you had quite a number of parcels, or were one of a party 
travelling together, advising you in both cases to telegraph 
to the Compagnie de I'Ouest to secure you a carriage or an 
omnibus. In the present emergency the porter should carry 
your baggage to an ordinary cab {fiacre') with railed-top if 
you have many heavy pieces of baggage, and without it if 
you have merely but one trunk. 

To leave the Railroad Station — While the porter is carry- 
ing your small parcels, a custom-house officer will ask you 
whether you have anything dutiable, and he may sometimes 
insist on examining one or more of your parcels. After satis- 
fying this exigency, you will ascertain from the porter the 
number of your cab ; have him place your parcels inside, 
being careful to ascertain that none of your belongings are 
missing. Then the porter will extend his hand, place in it 
eight or ten cents. In case you have several trunks, and 
have had several men engaged to carry them, or that one 
performed the work alone, the tip ought to be increased 
proportionately. 

Once your carriage and its number secured, you re-enter 
the station by the way you came out, and ask one of the 
attendants: Bagages ! He will point out a door, which is. 
ordinarily closed, and, in the company of other travellers, you 
v/ill wait patiently for its opening. 

If you have retained a carriage. — ^Take your card, or 
else write your name upon a piece of paper, and ask the 
interpreter to tell the guard (or tell the guard directly, if 
you speak French) that you have secured a carriage by tele- 
graph. Then you merely follow the porter, he will do the 
rest and lead you to your carriage. As in the preceding case, 
see that your hand baggage is complete, and after having 



20 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

carefully taken the number of your carriage and tipped the 
porter, retrace your steps to the station and in front of the 
baggage-room door. 

In the Bagg'ag^e-Room 

When the door opens, go forward, holding in your hand 
your baggage check or checks, which you show to any of 
the attendants, who will indicate the compartment where 
your baggage should be. Then look in that compartment 
for a porter dressed in blue overalls — same costume as 
the one who took charge of your hand baggage — give him 
the baggage checks, he will do the rest. But remember his 
looks, and in the meantime keep your place, for he may, 
after gathering your baggage, seek you to open your trunks 
■for the custom-house officer who may want to examine them. 

After the porter has conducted you to the spot where he 
has gathered your baggage, you must first ascertain whether 
it is complete and in order. Once this done, wait for the 
custom-house officer whom the porter is seeking. 

Examination of Baggage. — The officer will ask you if 
you have anything dutiable (alcohol, tobacco, cigars, laces, 
etc.), and will indicate the trunks he wants you to unlock. 
After examining the contents, he will chalk on your trunks 
a special sign, and then you may close them. Give the 
porter the number of your hack so as to enable him to 
carry your trunks, and when he takes the last one follow 
him. Again ascertain that all your baggage is loaded, and 
give the porter a tip of lo cents if you have but one trunk, 
of 15 cents if you have two, etc. Step inside the carriage 
and give the driver the address of your hotel. If you do 
not speak French, you should give the driver the name and 
address of the hotel in writing. 

Bagg'age by Express 

While the above is the usual way of proceeding, it is not 
the most expeditious, since it oftentimes forces the traveller 
to the inconvenience of waiting a long time for the unloading 
of baggage. The better way, in my estimation, is to give, 
on the arrival of the train, your baggage checks to an express, 
as in New York. 

This can be done at the railroad stations Saint-Lazare, 
Lyon or Orleans only, where the Agency of the Voyages 
Diicheiiiin are located. The cost of transportation from the 
station to your hotel is 6 cents per 25 lbs., the minimum 
charge is i franc. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 21 

This will enable you to take along your small parcels and 
drive directly to the hotel. 

The same agency, with main offices at No. 20 Rue de 
Grammont, will take charge, at your departure, if notified 
twenty-four hours in advance, of your baggage for delivery 
and checking at all the stations, for the same price, but at 
a minimum of lYz francs. 

At the Hotel 

On entering the hotel, the janitor {concierge) will relieve 

you of your small parcels, while the porters will unload your 

baggage. Go to the office, and ascertain whether the room 

assigned to you is suitable in every respects. Have the 

hotel pay the hackman, this will obviate the necessity of any 

explanation with the latter. We have already given the 

rates of carriage fares for conveyances secured by telegraph 

from the Railroad Company, page 15. For the cabs {fiacres) 

ihe fares are as follows : 

r- u -^u * . •!■ ./ f t ^ fi'- additional be- 

Cabs without top-railmg, xy^ frs. ) ^*. • 1 • u* 1 

• ., ,. ' ,, ^ ^ ,, < tween midnight and 

with " " 2 " ] „ , , ^ 

( 7 A. M. 

In addition to these fixed rates add X ^^- P^r trunk and 

Y fr. for the driver. 

Parisian Customs and Habits 

Now that you are installed into your room, it becomes neces- 
sary that you should get in contact with Parisian customs 
and habits, which differ notably from those prevailing in the 
United States or England. In the first place, in Paris, the 
custom of taking hot coffee or chocolate with a bread-roll in 
tne morning is almost general. And here, it is quite impor- 
ant to bear in mind that in Parisian hotels of whatever 
^rade, an extra charge is made for the service of meals in the 
rooms, be they small meals or full repasts. Moreover, the 
real or principal breakfast is served from ir A.M. until 
I P. M.; the dinner, from 6.30 until 8 P. M. 

Consequently, if you propose to take your meals regularly 
at the hotel, you should make an arrangement fixing the 
price per day or by the week for your room, the meals (com- 
prising the small and regular breakfast and the dinner), as 
well as the attendance (serru'ce) and lighting ; the two last 
items are seldom included in the price of the room, and 
average an extra charge of 2 to 3 francs. Therefore, when 
debating the price of your room, it is advisable to have 
attendance and lightiftg included in the agreement. When 
your stay in the hotel is for more than one week, it is cus- 



22 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

tomary for the proprietor to present his bill on Saturday, 
and you are expected to pay it in the twenty-four hours fol- 
lowing. Should you have made no previous arrangements 
for your meals, you may have to pay cash for them, as 
most hotels do not " charge " restaurant checks. 

A Few Practical Counsels 

Here I will take the liberty of giving some advice to 
tourists, which may entail light pecuniary disadvantages, 
but, on the other hand, it will largely compensate them 
by securing greater freedom of action and economy of time. 
With this object in view, I would advise the tourist not 
to enter into any arrangement as to meals at the hotel. 
Paris is quite a large city, with broadly disseminated points 
of interest, entailing long journeys, and consequently you 
may oftentimes find yourself at meal times in a quarter 
away from your hotel and desirous to refresh yourself in the 
neighborhood. The alternative is either a sacrifice of time 
or of money. 

Since I am upon the counselling chapter, I may be allowed 
to continue, and summarize here all what is suggested by 
experience. 

First, banish from your mind the idea that you will accom- 
plish wonders by rising early. The Parisian may sometimes 
reach his couch as late as seven in the morning, but he 
seldom leaves his home before nine. Therefore, if the fancy 
of taking a walk before nine entices you in the streets, do 
not anticipate to see the brilliant Paris of your imagination, 
you will simply see Paris at its ablutions and engaged at its 
toilet. The city, until about 8 o'clock, is in the hands of the 
street cleaners, and the shops and public establishments and 
cafes are not yet opened. 

Forego also prom.enading with a satchel hanging to a 
shoulder strap and containing your money and jewelry. 
There are no more crooks in Paris than anywhere else, but 
rest assured that it has its quota, and of the smartest kind. 
You should not court the risk of being relieved of your valu- 
ables in order to ascertain the dexterity of the Parisian crook. 
My advice is to take with you merely the sum necessary to 
defray the day's expenses, depositing the bulk in the hotel 
safe, and taking a receipt for the same. 

While I am writing about the dangers one may encounter 
visiting Paris — these remarks are specially devoted to men — 
I will specially caution them against the night oivls that are 
lurking under the arcades of the Rue de Rivoli, promenading 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 23 

on the Boulevards and found also in those places of amuse- 
ment "^hunned by all respectable women. When out slum- 
))ii)ig, only take with you the sum of money you have decided 
not to bring back. 

French Coins and Bank-notes 

In order that you should not be imposed upon about the 
value of the French subsidiary and gold coins, and the 
paper-money, the following dlustrated table is given, with its 
equivalent in American money : 

French denominations. , American 

denominations. 

J S ) 5 centimes (i sou) i cent 

gj° / 10 centimes (2 sous) 2 cents 

f 50 centimes (10 sous) .... 10 cents 

o g ! I franc (20 sous) 20 cents 

•^g I 2 francs (40 sous) 40 cents 

i 5 francs (100 sous) i dollar 

r 5 francs i dollar 

2 S J 10 francs 2 dollars 

03 I -o francs (un louis) 4 dollars 

[ I GO francs (seldom used). . 20 dollars 
f 50 francs 10 dollars 

■^i \ 100 francs 20 dollars 

^g I 500 francs 100 dollars 

[ 1000 francs 20c dollars 

It must be understood that the equivalency figured in the 
above table is not absolutely e.xact, as the dollar is really 
worth 5 francs and 17 centimes, but its approximation is 
sufficiently near to give the traveller a practical idea of the 
corresponding value in American money of what he disburses 
when called to pay in French money. 

Exchange and Brokers 

The money broker will retain a commission upon the real 
value, this commission varies according to the broker. 
Among the reputable brokerage houses are : 

Le Comptoir National d' Escompfe, main office Rue Ber- 
gere, branch at the corner of the Avenue de TOpera and Rue 
du 4-Septembre. 

La Banqiie Internatiotialc, 3 Rue Saint-Georges; La 
Batique Parzsieufie, Rue Chauchat, and the banking-house 
of Rothschild, 21 Rue Laffite. 

Furthermore, you have the privilege of several safe- 
deposits, for short or extended use, at the Comptoir d' Es- 
coinpte, etc., etc. 

Hotels generally will change your money, but they charge 
more than the brokers. 



24 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

I have advised you precedingly to deposit your money in 
the hotel safe, but in the case of important sums, it is pre- 
ferable, as I have remarked at the beginning of this work, 
page 4, to secure in New York a letter of credit upon a 
Paris bank, who will furnish you with French money as you 
need it. 

American Embassy and Consulate 

Before closing this chapter, it is proper to state that the 
United States are represented in Paris by an Ambassador — to 
whom you may have recourse in case of any untoward acci- 
dent — and by a Consul-General, at whose office you should 
register, because when travelling in a foreign country, with 
the likelihood of a constant changing of address, letters 
from home can always be directed to the Consulate, with 
the request to forward to your latest address. 

The American Embassy is at No. 24 Avenue Kleber. 

The Consulate at No. 36 Avenue de I'Opera. 

British Embassy, No. 39 Rue Saint-Honore. 

The office hours are from 11 A. M. until 3 P. M. at both 
embassies and consulates. 

Newspapers and Periodicals 

In order to complete the list of useful informations a 
nomenclature of the Paris press is indispensable, and I will 
begin with the morning papers : 

The New York Herald (Paris edition), published every 
day in the year. Office, No. 49 Avenue de I'Opera. Price : 
Paris, 3 cents, and 5 cents elsewhere. 

Terms to subscribers, free of postage. Daily (including 
Sunday) : 

Paris. France. Abroad. 

One month 4.50 frs. 5 frs. 6 frs. 

Three months i3-5o 15 18 

Six months. 27.00 30 36 

One year 50.00 58 70 

■Sunday edition only : 

Paris. France and Abroad 

Three months 4 frs. 5 frs. 

Six months 8 10 

One year 15 20 

London : For advertisements, subscriptions and sale of 
papers, Trafalgar Buildings, i Northumberland Avenue. 

Subscriptions and advertisements for both the New York 
and Paris editions of the Herald will be received at regular 
rates at any of these offices. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 25 

Le Journal, daily, I cent, No. 100 Rue Richelieu. 

Le Ganlois, daily, 3 cents. 

I.e Steele, daily, 2 cents. 

The Petit Bleu, daily, l cent. 

L' Echo de Paris, daily, i cent. 

Le Voltaire, daily, 2 cents. No. 24 Rue Chauchat. 

Le Figaro, daily, 3 cents. Rue Drouhot. 

L" Autoritc, daily, i cent. No. 4 bis Rue du Bouloi. 

Le Petit Parisien, daily, i cent. No. 20 Boulevard Mont- 
martre. 

Le Gil Bias, daily, 3 cents, No. 33 Rue de Provence. 

Le Petit Journal, daily, i cent, Rue La Fayette. 

Le Paris, daily, i cent. 

La Patrie, daily, i cent. Rue du Croissant. 

Le Temps, daily, 3 cents, No. 7 Boulevard des Italiens. 

Journal des Dcbats, daily, 2 cents. 

La Presse, daily. No. 12 Rue du Croissant. 

Le Soir', daWy, 3 cents, No. 24 Rue Chauchat. 

Le Correspondant is the oldest French review, being in 
its seventy-first year. Its programme embraces Religion, 
Politics, Philosophy, History, Sciences, Social Economy, 
Travels, Literature, Fine Arts, etc., etc., in a word, everything 
concerning contemporaneous questions. 

Its editorial staff, recruited in the ranks of the best con- 
servative and moderate writers, enables it to follow closely 
questions of actuality in France and foreign countries and to 
furnish readily competent appreciations from varied points of 
view upon all matters. It devotes a large space to Corres- 
pondences and unpublished Memoirs. Among others. Sou- 
venirs de Tocqueville ; Memoires de Mr. Gontaut-Biron, 
Ambassador to Berlin ; Memoir es de Trochu ; Souvenirs 
de M. Octave Feuillet ; Mcmoires de Chenelong, in which 
are recounted the negociations with the Count de Cham- 
bord, etc., etc. 

Among the contributors are the Duke of Broglie, the 
Marquis Costa de Beauregard and the Viscount de Bornier, 
Mr. Thureau-Dangin, Mr. Frangois Coppee, the Count de 
Mun, of the French Academy ; Mr. Arthur Desjardins, Mr. 
de Lapparent, the Marquis de Vogue, of the Institute ; Messrs. 
Etienne Lamy, Rene Bazin, Edouard Rod, Count Grabinski, 
Henri Chantavoine, de Parville, Maurice Talmeyr, de Na- 
daillac, Ed. Bire, Pierre de la Force, Keller, de Lanzac, de 
Labori, Nourrisson, Baron Denys-Cochin, A. Delaire; Mmes. 
Caro, Dieulafoy, Dronsart, Bentson, de Baulny nee Ronter, 
^'^ra Melegari, etc., etc. 



26 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

Its offices in Paris are at No. 14 Rue de I'Abbaye. Count 
de Lavedan, editor. The subscription per year, 35 frs.; six 
months, 18 frs.; single copy, 2>^ francs. Same prices for 
foreign countries. 

La Revue des Deux-Mondes, founded by F. Buloz, has 
entered in its sixty-sixth year. It is undeniably the foremost 
among French reviews. It prints 20,000 copies, and its sub- 
scribers are principally among the educated and rich classes 
of the whole world. It is under the editorship of the eminent 
academician, Mr. F. Brunetiere. It is published on the ist 
and 15th of each month. It contains a novel, a political 
leader, musical, literary and scientific reviews ; articles upon 
French and foreign literature, on historical and philosophical 
questions, travals, and economic movements, etc. 

Offices, No. 15 Rue de I'Universite. Subscription rates : 
Paris, one year, 50 frs.; Departments, one year, 56 frs.; six 
months. 26 and 29 frs. respectively. 

La Nouvelle Revue has reached its twenty-first year. It 
was founded by Mme Juliette Adam, who remained at its 
head until the beginning of the year ; Mr. Ghensi has now 
assumed the editorial management of this political, literary 
and artistic publication, which appears on the ist and 15th 
of the month. 

Offices : No. 26 Rue Racine. Subscription rates : France, 
one year, 45 frs.; six months, 24 frs.; three months, 12 frs. 
Foreign countries, 55, 30 and 16 frs. respectively. 

La Revue de Paris is published on the 1st and 1 5th of the 
month; it is in its seventh year; single copies, ly^ frs. 
Offices, No. 85 bis Faubourg Saint-Honore. Subscription: 
Paris, one year, 48 frs.; six months, 24 frs.; three months, 
12 frs. France, one year, 54 frs.; six months, 27 frs.; three 
months, 13 frs. Foreign, one year, 60 frs.; six months. 30 
frs.; three months, 15 frs. 

La Grande Revue \s a monthly published on the ist of the 
month It is in its fourth year, with Mr. Fernand Labori as 
editor. The offices are at No. 11 Rue de Crenelle. Subscrip- 
tion : Paris, one year, 30 frs.; six month's, 16 frs.; three 
months, 8 frs. France, one year, 33 frs.; six months, 17 frs.; 
three months, 9 frs. Foreign, one year, 36 frs.; six months, 
19 frs.; three months, 10 frs. 

La Revue Bleue was founded in 1863 by Eugene Yung. 
It is a weekly published on Saturday. Its present editor is 
Mr. Henry Ferrari, This review will keep you abreast of 
the literary and theatrical movement, while it gives a well 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE VJ 

digested outlook upon current topics. Offices: No. 19 Rue 
des Saints-Peres. 

A scientific supplement, under the title of the Revue Rose, 
s a valuable addition. It is published on the same day and 
sells at the same price. 

Les Atinales politiques et litter aires are under the edi- 
torial management of Mr. J. Brisson. It is an illustrated 
weekly periodical known all over the world. It publishes 
novels, specially written for it by such celebrated writers as 
Paul Bourget, Andre Theuriet, Jules Claretie, Pierre Loti, 
P. et V. Marguerite, and many others ; a weekly synopsis of 
the intellectual movement is also given, as well as musical 
pieces and engravings. It is the most popular and less 
costly of all the periodicals of the same size and same cate- 
gory. Its subscription list reaches 80,000, it is read by 
at least 500,000. Offices : No. 1 5 Rue Saint-Georges. Sub- 
scription : France, one year, 10 frs.; six months, 5K frs. 
Foreign, one year, 12 frs.; six months, 6^ frs. 

Many other periodicals are published in the interest of the 
several political parties and literary groups, the nomenclature 
of which would be too extensive ; however, I think it useful 
to mention here — 

La Mode lUiistri'e, which is published on Sunday, under the 
management of Mme E. Raymond. It consists of 16 pages 
in-4to with a colored plate, a literary supplement, with a 
variety of patterns and models. This publication was founded 
in i860. Offices: No. 56 Rue Jacob. Subscription; Paris, 
three months, 3 frs.; six months, 6 frs.; one year, 12 frs. 
Departments, three months, 3/^ frs.; six months, 7 frs.; one 
year, 14 frs. 



CHAPTER III 



OF THINGS ESSENTIAL TO KNOW 



Definite Selection of Quarters 

If your stay in Paris is limited to two or three weeks, the 
hotel, undoubtedly, is the preferable abode ; but in the event 
that you have projected a longer sojourn, you may find it 
advisable to deprive yourself of the more comfortable 
appointments of an hotel — which are more or less expensive 
— and stop at a boarding-house, or live in furnished rooms, 
some of which are very comfortable and easily procured. In 
regard to boarding-houses, the Villa Marguerite, at Neuilly, 
and the Joli Sejour, Avenue de la Grande Armee, can be 
recommended to families; moreover, their prices are rea- 
sonable. 



At the Restaurant ♦ 

I have already remarked that it was more practical and 
agreeable to take breakfast and dinner at the restaurant, in 
a Hve quarter of the city, than to retrace one's steps to 
the hotel for meals. Here is a list and addresses of a few 
restaurants, the best in their respective neighborhood, where 
you can be well served. In the emergency that you should 
be in doubt of your whereabouts, show the driver the address 
of these restaurants and tell him to drive you to the nearest. 
In this list the restaurants are classed in two different cate- 
gories, those at a fixed price for each meal, and those where 
you are served h la carte. 

Restaurants which serve meals at fixed 
PRICES. — Some hotels, as the Continental and the Grand 
Hotel, post at their door the breakfast and dinner bills of 
fare served at fixed prices. They are the two dearest places. 
The breakfast varies from 5 to 7 frs., and the dinner from 7 
to 8 frs. Other establishments quote lower prices, varying 
between 4 and 2 frs. Among them, the l)hier de Paris 
(one of the oldest), at No. 12 Boulevard Montmartre. — 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 29 

Diner frangai's, 27 Boulevard des Italiens. — Tavcrne dii 
Negrc, 15 Boulevard Saint-Denis. — Bonvalet, 29 Boulevard 
du Temple. — 'Taverne G ruber, i Boulevard Beaumarchais 
(at the Bastille). — At the Railroad Station Saint-Lazare, the 
Restaurant moderne, kept by Scossa. — At the Palais Royal, 
Vefour, kept by Vidrequin. — On the south shore of the 
Seine, at the Place de I'Odeon, the Cafe-restaurard Voltaire; 
and the Versailles, facing the Railroad Station Montpar- 
nasse. 

A LA Carte Restaurants. — These are much dearer, 
but as the portions are copiously served, you can control 
your expense by ordering properly. This category of eating 
places is very numerous, and I will give a list of the most 
important only. On the Avenue de I'Opera, the Cafe de 
Paris. — Place de la Madeleine, the restaurants Durand, 
Larue, and Lucas. — Boulevard des Capucines, the Cafe de 
la Paix, Cafe Atnericatn, and facing the latter, the Cafe 
Jiilien. — Boulevard des Italiens, the Cafe Anglais, Maison 
Doree, 3ind Paillard. — In the Passage des Princes, Noel- 
Peters. — Back of the Opera, Sylvain. — On the Boulevard 
Bonne-Nouvelle, Margiiery and An Gymiiase. — Place de la 
Bourse, Cliatnpeaiix — Boulevard Saint-Denis, Maire. — 
Boulevard du Temple, Bonvalet. — Rue Saint-Honorc, Voi- 
sin. — At the Palais R lyal, Le Grand V if our. — At the 
Champs-Elysees, Ledoyen ; the restaurant of the Ambas- 
sadeurs ; and that of the Rond-Point. — In the Bois de 
Boulogne, Gillet, the Pavilion d'Arjnenonville, the Cascade, 
Madrid. — On the south shore of the Seine, the best restau- 
rant, by all odds, is that of Foyot, in the Rue de Tournon, 
facing the Luxembourg. 

In the large breweries very good meals are served to order 
at very moderate prices. At Pousset, on the Boulevard des 
Italiens. — At Zimuier and at Ducastaing, on the Boulevard 
Montmartre. — -On the Avenue de I'Opera, at the Brewery 
named after that thoroughfare. — At Mollard, at the Rail- 
road Station Saint-Lazare. 

In all of them you are given a bill of fare, from which to 
select. But in the case of restaurants at fixed prices you 
should order only the number of dishes to which you are en- 
titled. In ordering a la carte, you should notice the price 
of the dishes. At both there is a special Wine List. 

Once seated, the waiter will hand you the bill of fare, 
which you will decipher, approximately at least. If you can- 
not speak PYench, point to him on the bill of fare the dishes 
you have selected. If you need the services of the waiter 



3° HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

during the meal, with your knife strike lightly upon the glass. 
Once through with your meal, signal the waiter and tell 
him: '' Addition !" He will hand you a detailed check; 
verify its correctness at a glance, and pay the amount, adding 
a tip of ten to twenty cents. 

Parisian Caf^s 

Oftentimes the restaurant has tables outside, this is de- 
nominated in Parisian parlance terrasse. When the weather 
js fine, it is more agreeable to sip your coffee on the terrace; 
but if the restaurant is not provided with outdoor tables, 
you may adjourn to one of the well-known reputable cafes. 

The boulevards being the centre of the city, it is natural 
that the cafes bordering on them are those where the greatest 
animation is to be found. The Grand Cafe, the Cafede la 
Paix, American, Julien, and the Napolitain, opposite the 
/audeville Theatre, are some of the most perfect types of 
such establishments. Further on, are ihe cafes attached to 
breweries which have acquired quite a prominence lately, 
such as Pousset, Zimmer, Bucastaing, and Muller. Beyond 
the boulevards they are to be found almost everywhere. On 
the Rue Royale, Taverne Royale ; at the Railroad Station 
Saint-Lazare, the cafes Jacqueminot, Mollard,^ Termi7ius ; 
cafe Dreher on the Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle ; on the Bou- 
levard de Strasbourg, the cafes Frangais and Eldorado ; 
at the Palais-Royal, Cafi Orleans and Taverne la Rotonde ; 
the cafe of La Regence, facing the Avenue de I'Opera and the 
Theatre-Frangais. On the south shore of the river Seine, 
the boulevard abounds with them : Vachette and Soufflet at 
the corner of the Rue des Ecoles ; the tavern of the Pan- 
theon, at the corner of the Rue Soufflot ; Lavejitie, at the 
railroad station Montparnasse, and Barbotte at the station of 
the Northern Railway, etc. 

Once seated at a' table, a waiter will ask you what 
you desire. Tell him, and he will understand you, even if 
you answer in English. When ready to leave, strike the 
platter with a silver coin, which you give him ; from the 
returned change, hand him four cents, more if you are several 
in your party. 

Tobacco and Cig-ar Stores 

In order to complete the list of useful informations, we 
will state that in Paris the tobacco and cigar stores (^bureaux 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 3I 

detabac) are easily recognized, all of them having the sign 
TAB AC. At night a red light serves to distinguish them. 
There are three or four of those stores who enjoy the reputa- 
tion of selling the best cigars and of keeping the most varied 
stock. 

They are the Bureau de la Civcttc, located on the square 
of the Theatre-Frangais, facing the artists' entrance ; another 
one is at the Grand-Hotel on the right of the main entrance, 
on the Boulevard des Capucines, and still another one in 
front of the church Madeleine. 



Barber Shops ainl Bathing Establishments 

The traveller, upon arriving in a city, is generally in need 
of a barber. It is quite disagreeable to step into a slovenly- 
kept establishment or fall to the mercies of a carving artist. 
The same remarks apply to bathing establishments. Al- 
though many hotels are provided with both facilities. 1 deem 
it advisable to furnish the address of a few places where 
you will find comfort and proper attendance. 

Barbers.— Wherever you come in sight of a sign reading 
"Lavatory," you may rest assured that you will find clean- 
liness and proper attendance. Establishments under that 
name are disseminated throughout Paris. 

Hairdressers for Ladies.— /'^///, at No. 7 Rue de 
la Paix ; Gabriel, No. 229 Rue Saint-Honore ; Lenthcric, 
Rue des Petits-Champs; Normaiuliu, etc., etc. 

Baths. — The sole establishment which recalls to a certain 
extent the ablutionary luxuriousness of antiquity, is that of 
Haiiunatn, No. 18 Rue des Mathurins, the entrance reserved 
for ladies is on the Boulevard Haussmann. There are also 
the Piscine Rochechouart at No. 67 of Rue Rochechouart; 
the baths of Saint-Denis ; on the river Seine, the Samari- 
taine, which has outlived the disappearance of the antiquated 
frigate. On the south shore of the Seine you will find the 
Hammam and Monge in the Rue du Cardinal-Lemome. 

Cold bathing establishments can be found at every bridges 
on the Seine, at the Pont-Royal, Pont des Saints-Peres, and 
Pont-Neuf. 



How to ask aiHl find yonr Way 

This chapter being written with the object of giving the 
traveller all the practical and necessary counsels to enable 



32 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

him to move in Paris with ease, and save all unneces- 
sary steps, it becomes my duty to warn him about certain 
precautions he should take in order not to lose his way— and 
how to ask for it in case he has lost it. 

In the first place, invariably carry two cards in your 
pocket-book ; one with your name and Paris address, the 
other with your address only. 

In case of an accident befalling you, it is in your pocket- 
book the police will look for information. If ycu lose 
your way, show your address card to any wayfarer or police- 
man {sergent de 'vill'e)—\xx Paris, everybody will give you 
the desired information byword, or by gesture if you do not 
understand French. Proceed in the same manner if you 
take a carriage by the way. 

However, albeit the rationality of all these premonitions, 
one must acknowledge that it would be a pitiable manner of 
visiting Paris if forced to ask every passer-by his way. This 
would entail, considering the distance which separates the 
points of interest, a great loss of time. Therefore, it is pre- 
ferable to take a cab, especially in a city like Paris, where the 
cab rates are quite reasonable compared with those pre- 
vailing in the United States. The Parisians employ them 
constantly, but the well-to-do find it more agreeable to have 
a well appointed turn-out at their disposal when needed. 

The wealthy class generally favors the livery stables of 
Brion, No. i6 Boulevard des Capucines, with a branch in 
the aristocratic quarter of the Champs-Eiysees, at No. 83 
Boetie Street. You can safely deal with this firm, as it enjoys 
a deserved high reputation for the great variety and perfect 
correctness of its equipages. 

If your means do not permit of hiring a first-class equipage, 
you may secure a comfortable carriage at a moderate cost 
from the Compagnie Generale des Petites Voitures, or from 
the Compagnie Urbaine, who will furnish you with a com- 
fortable carriage at the rate of 25 to 30 frs. per day. 

However, to the traveller who do not care to bind himself 
hiring a carriage by the month or day, Paris offers a marvel- 
lously organized system of public hacks, cabs or coupes— all 
three more or less accurately covered by ihe French generic 
name of fiacre. The best equipped carriages of this cate- 
gory are those of the Compagnie des Petites Voitures and 
of the Compagnie Urbaine. 

The rates for these cabs are uniform throughout the city, 
whichever the company ; the rates are printed on a slip, 
bearing the carriage number, which should be handed to you 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



33 



I)y the driver. We give below a copy of the French original 
with a translation in English ; 



Cie Parisienne de Voilures 
rUrbaine 

Societe anonyme au capital de 
10,806,000 francs 

Rue Taitbout, 59 — Paris 

2253 



Conserver ce numero en cas 
de reclamations, qui, s'il y a 
lieu, devront etre adressces a 
M. le Prefet de Police. 

V oiture de Place a. 2 places 

Tarif maximum dans Pinterieur 
de Paris 



De 6 heures du 
matin en ete 

De 7 heures du 
matin a mlnuit 
30m. en hiver 

La course, f.1.50 

L'heure, fr.2.00 



De minuit 30m. 
A 6 h. du matin 

en ete 
A 7 h. du matin 

en tiiver 
La course, f.2.25 
L'heure, f.2.50 



Tarif maximum au-dela des 
Fortifications 

(Bois de Boulogne, liois de 
Vincennes, Arcueil, Aubervil- 
liers, Bagneux, Bagnolet, Bou- 
logne, Charenlon, Clichy, Gen- 
tilly, Issy, Ivry, Les Lilas, Les 
pres St. Gervais, Levallois- 
Perret, Malakoff, Montreuil, 
Montiouge, Neuilly, Pantin, 
Romainville, St. I)enis, St. 
Mande, St. Maurice, St. Ouen, 
Varennes,Villeju if, Vincennes.) 

(Trailer de gre a gre pour les au- 
tres destinations.) 

De 6 h. du matin a minuit en 
ete (i^'" avril au 30 sept.) 

De 6 h. du matin a lO h. du soir 
en hiver (i*^'" oct. au 31 mars). 



Lorsque le voya- 
geur laifsera la 
voiture en de- 
hors des Forti- 
fications 
Indemnite de 
retour, f. i. 



Lorsque le voya- 
geur rentrera 
dans Paris 

. avec la voi- 
ture 

L'heure, f, 2.50 



Voiture prise hors des Fortifications 
pour Paris, l'heure, 2 frs, 

Bagages : i colis, 25 c. ; 2 colis, 
50 c. ; 3 colis et plus, 75 c. 



Parisian Cab Company 
« L'Urbaine » 

Incorporated with a Capital of 
10,806,000 francs 

No. 59 Rue Taitbout, Paris 



2253 



Keep this number in case of 
complaints, which should be 
made to the Superintendent of 
Police {M. le Fr^fet de Police). 

Conveyance for 2 persons 

Maximum Rates in the Interior 
of Paris 



From 6 A. M. in 

summer. 
From 7 A. M. in 

winter, 
Until 12.30 A. M. 


From 12.30 A. M. 
Until 6 A. M. in 

summer. 
Until 7 A. M. in 

winter, 


One ride, 1I4 frs. 
The hour, 2 "■ 


One ride, 25i frs. 
The hour,2j2 " 



Maximum Ri.'es Beyond the 
Fortifications 

(Bois de Boi. logne, Bois de 
Vincennes, Arcueil, Aubervil- 
liers, Bagneux, Bagnolet, Bou- 
logne, Charenton, Clichy, Gen- 
tilly, Issy, Ivry, Les Lilas, Les 
pres St. Gervais, Levallois- 
Perret, Malakoff, Montreuil, 
Montrouge, Neuilly, Pantin, 
Romainville, St. Denis, St. 
Mande, St. Maurice, St. Ouen, 
\'arennes,Villejuif, Vincennes.) 

(Fix the rates in advance for all 
other points.) 

From 6 A.M. until midnight in 
Summer(April i to Sept. 30). 

From 6 A. M. to 10 p. M. in 
Winter (Oct. i to March 31). 



If the traveller 
returns to 
Paris with the 
carriage, 

Per hour, 2^ frs. 



If the cab is dis- 
missed outside 
the Fortifica- 
tions, 

Return fare, i fr. 



Carriages hired outside the Fortifi- 
cations for Paris, per hour, 2 frs. 

I>3ggfge : I'-pce., X f''- i 2 pees., 
Yz fr. ; 3 pees, or more, |^ fr. 



34 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



Extraits des RSglements 

1 . Les cochers devront remettre sponta- 
nement un bulletin indicatif du numero 
et du tarif de leur voiture a. la personne 
qui vlent d'y monter. lis devront com- 
muniquer au voyageur, sur sa deniande, 
lehvret de la voiture. (Art. 47 de I'Or- 
donnance de Police du 31 aout 1807.) 

2. Le voyageur qui, en montant en voi- 
ture, n'aura pas fait connaitre au cocher 
son intention d'etre conduit a I'heure, sera 
presume avoir pris la voiture a la course. 

Art. 47.) 

3. Les cochers peuvent demander des 
jrrhes lorsqu'ils attendent i I'entree des 
etablissements oil il est notoire qu'ilexiste 
plusieurs issues. (Art. 58.) 

4. Les cochers devront marcher auxprix 
et conditions du tarif : i. aux stations : 2. 
sur la voie publique, lorsqu'ils auront re- 
pondu al'appel du voyageur. (Art. 39.) 

5. Les cochers ne sont pas tenus d'ad- 
mettre plus de voyageurs qu'il n'y a de 
places dans I'interieur de la voiture. Dans 
les voitures a strapontin, celui-ci compte 
pouruneou deux places, suivant ses di- 
mensions. Les cochers ne sont pas obliges 
d'accepter dans leur voiture des voyageurs 
en etat d'ivresse, ceux dont la tenue ou 
les bagages seralent susceptibles de salir 
ou de deteriorer la voiture. lis peuvent 
s'opposer a ce que les animaux montent 
avec les voyageurs dans la vniture ; mais, 
s'ils les ont acceptes, ils devront mar- 
cher. (Art. 60.) 

6. Toute i^ipolitesse, tout acte de gros- 
sierete ou de brutalite de la part des co- 
chers seront severement reprimes. (Art. 

4S-) , . . 

7. Les cochers de voitures depourvues 

de galerie ne sont pas tenus de prendre 
des bagages ; charges avec leur consente- 
ment, ils n' auront plus le droit de se re- 
fuser 4 les transporter. (Art. 61.) 

NoTA. — Ne sont pas regardes comme 
colis les valises et objets pouvant etre 
portes facilement k. la main ou places dans 
la voiture sans la deteriorer. 

8. Lorsque le temps employe pour le 
deplacement du cocher et I'attente du 
voyageur au lieu du chargement excede 
15 minutes, le tarif a I'heure est applique 
a partir du moment oi la voiture a ete 
louee. 

9. Le cocher qui se rend au lieu de 
chargement et n'est pas occupe a droit k 
la moitie d'une course si le temps employe 
pour le deplacement et I'attente ne de- 
passe pas un quart d'heure : le prix en- 
tier d'une course, si le temps excede 15 
minutes. 

10. Lorsqu'un cocher est requis de s'ar- 
reter en route ou de changer I'itineraire 
le plus direct, I'heure est due. Toutefois, 
le cocher, quoique pris a la course, est 
tenu de laisser monter ou descendre un 
voyageur en route. 

11. Apres 10 heures du solr en hiver et 
minuit en ete, les cochers ne sont pas 
tenus de franchir les fortifications. 

Reclamer, s'il y a lieu, le livret de 
la voiture contenant les reglements 
et les tarifs en vigueur. (Art. 28,) 



Extracts from the Eules 

1. The drivers must give spontaneously 
to the person entering their carriage a 
slip indicating the number of their con- 
veyance and the schedule of prices. They 
must, if requested by their fare, show the 
certificate cf their conveyance. (Art. 47 of 
Police Ordinance, 31st August, 1897.) 

2. The traveller who, entering a public 
conveyance, has not informed the driver 
of his intention of being driven by the 
hour, is supposed to have hired it for a 
ride. (Art. 47.) 

3. The drivers have the privilege to 
exact pay in advance when left awaiting 
in front of establishments known to have 
several exits. (Art. 58.) 

4. Drivers are obligated to move in ac- 
cordance with the price and conditions of 
the tariff : 1st, to the stations ; 2d, on the 
public highway, after having answered 
the call of the passenger. (Art. 39.) 

5. Drivers are not obliged to accom- 
modate more passengers than there are 
places in their conveyance. In carriages 
with a folding seat (strapontiii), the lat- 
ter is reckoned as one or two seats, ac- 
cording to its size. Drivers are not obliged 
to admit in their vehicle intoxicated peo- 
ple, nor those in a condition, or whose 
baggage would be likely, to soil or dete- 
riorate their conveyance. They can ob- 
ject to animals entering their carriage 
with their fare; but if at first they have 
agreed to it they must go on. (Art. 60 ) 

6. Impoliteness, coarseness or brutality 
on the part of the drivers will be severely 
repressed. (Art. 45.) 

7. Drivers of conveyances without rail- 
ing are not obliged to take baggage ; but 
having once accepted the baggage they 
have lost the right to refuse its transpor- 
tation. (Art. 61.) 

NoTA. — Valises or articles which can 
be easily carried by hand or placed in the 
carriage without damaging it, are not con- 
sidered as baggage. 

8. If the lapse of time consumed be- 
tween the ordering of the carriage and 
the beginning of the drive proper exceeds 
15 minutes, the hour rates are applicable 
and reckoned from the time the carriage 
has been hired. 

g. The driver who answers a call and 
is not hired has the right to claim the 
price of half a ride if the time thus con- 
sumed does not exceed 15 minutes, if it 
exceeds that lapse of time he is entitled 
to the price of a full ride. 

10. If the driver is requested to make a 
stoppage, or to follow an itinerary which is 
not the most direct, he is entitled to a full 
hour. Notwithstanding of his being hired 
for a ride, the driver is bound to allow his 
fare to get in or off his carriage while en 
route. 

11. After 10 P. M. in winter, and 12 at 
night in summer, drivers are not obliged 
to drive beyond the fortifications. 

Ask, if necessary, for the certificate 
of the ccnveyance containing rules 
and schedule of fares in force. (Art. 
28.) 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 35 



Communications by Telegraph, Cable, Telephone, 
Post, etc. 



It is already a great advantage to be able to find your way 
in Piuis, but one should also be able to profit of the pneu- 
matic, telegraphic, telephonic and postal means of commu- 
nications which exist between Paris and its immediate neigh- 
borhood, as well as with other cities in France, in order 
that if the necessity of sending a message or a letter should 
arise, he can do so with practical celerity. 

Pneumatic Messages. — Communications within Paris 
proper can also be had through pneumatic messages, sent 
on blanks sold at the Post-Ot^ce stations, either sealed or 
unsealed, at 50 and 30 centimes (10 and 6 cents) respectively. 
On an average it takes three hours for such a message to 
reach its destination. 

You write in the blank all you want, and by paying 60 cen- 
times additionally for the first and i franc for the second 
category you secure the privilege of a prepaid answer. 
There are also what is called "pneumatic envelopes" sold 
for 50 centimes, in which you can enclose sheets of paper up 
to the weight of 7 grammes (nearly 15^^ grains). If you 
should go beyond that weight and not over 15 grammes it 
will require a prepayment of 50 centimes in postage stamps, 
and of I franc between 15 and 30 grammes. Those en- 
velopes must retain their flexibility, and consequently should 
not contain any hard bodied matter nor valuables. You can 
also send through the same mode sealed card-letters of 15 
centimes by adding postage stamps to the amount of 35 
centimes, or open card-letters with the folding part detached 
by adding 15 centimes in postage stamps. Moreover, all 
these pneumatic communications can be " Answer Prepaid " 
—provided the answer is in the form of a receipt for a bill, 
or a deposit, or an ordinary acknowledgment — by adding 10 
centimes in postage stamps. 

Bicycle Messengers.— In the emergency of an imme- 
diate answer being required to your communication, employ 
a Bicycle Messenger ( Veloce-Chassetir). There is now in 
Paris a perfect organization of bicyclists for that purpose. 



36 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

They are stationed at almost every cafe, and for 10 to 20 
cents, according to the length of the journey, they will deliver 
a message and bring back the answer. 

Telegrams. — If it is a telegram you wish to send, you 
can always dispatch it from an hotel, a cafe or a restaurant 
by one of the boys in the place, to whom you give a few 
cents for his trouble. If, for special reasons, you prefer 
doing it yourself, enquire for the nearest telegraph office — 
their number is so great in Paris, you will not have far to 
walk. You should also bear in mind that in France, Post 
and Telegraph offices, are one and the same, they both 
belong to, and are controlled by, the Government. 

Rates to and from France and Foreig7i Cofttmental 
Countries. — Between the offices in France, Algeria and 
Tunis, the rates are i cent per word with a minimum of 
10 cents. 10 cents additional will pay for the answer. 

Dispatches for Belgium and Switzerland cost I2j^ cen- 
times (2i cents) per word ; 1 5 centimes (3 cents) to Ger- 
many ; 16 centimes to Netherlands ; 20 centimes to Austria- 
Hungary, Spain, Great-Britain, Italy and Portugal; 2414 
centimes to Danemark ; 28 centimes to Sweden; 28 j^ cen- 
times to Bosnia, Roumania and Serbia; 3i>^ centimes to 
Bulgaria ; 36 centimes to Norway ; 40 centimes to European 
Russia ; 53 centimes to European Turkey ; 531-^ centimes to 
continental Greece. 

Rates to Transoceanic Countries. — The word-rate for 
New York is i franc 25 centimes (25 cents) ; it varies from 
3 francs 35 centimes (67 cents) per word for the Antilles; 
from 4 francs 70 centimes to about 6 francs for Brazil. It 
is 7 francs 70 centimes ($1.54) for Chili, Peru and Japon. 

Cablegrams. — Should you desire to cable to the United 
States, it is done by the intermediary of the Post-Office De- 
partment. 

Cablegrams from France to the United States, Canada 
and Mexico should not bear the indication of any 
route. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



37 



Rates to and from France, tJie United States, Mexico, 
Canada, etc. 



Destination I Price per word | Destination 



UNITED STATES 



French I U. S. 
money (money 



UNITED STATES 



Alabama 

Arizona 

Arkansas 

California 

Carolina (South).. 

Carolina (North). 

Colorado 

Connecticut. ... 

Dakota (N. & S.) 

Delaware 

District of Co- 
lumbia 

Florida — 

Key West 

Pensacola. . . . 
Other stations. 

Georgia 

Idaho 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Indian Territory. 

Iowa 

Kansas 

Kentucky 

Louisiana — 
New Orleans. . 
Other stations.. 

Maine 

Maryland 

Massachusetts . . . 

Michigan 

Minnesota — Du- 
luth, Minneap- 
olis, St. Paul, 

Winona 

Other stations. 

Mississippi 

Missouri — 

St. Louis 

Other stations. 

Montana 

Nebraska 

Nevada 

New Hampshire. 

New Jersey — 
Hoboken, Jer- 
sey City 

Other stations. 

New Mexico 



frs. 

55 
90 
80 
90 

55 
55 
So 

25 
80 

45 



1.80 
1-55 

1-55 
1.80 
1.80 
1.80 
1.90 
1.25 



1-25 
1-45 
I. So 



31 

38 
36 
38 
31 
31 
36 
25 
36 
29 



45 29 



42 
31 
36 
31 
38 
31 
31 
36 
36 
36 
31 

31 
36 
25 
29 

25 
31 



31 
36 
31 

31 
36 
36 
36 
38 
2^ 



25 
29 
38 



Price per word 

FrendTTursT' 
money I money 



frs. 



cents 



New York — 

New York City 
and Brooklyn 1.25 

Other stations. 1.45 

Ohio 155 

Oklahoma, Ter. . i.So 

Oregon 1.90 

Pennsylvania .... 1. 45 
Rhode Island.. . . 1.25 

Tennessee 1.55 

Texas 1.80 

Utah. , 1.90 

Vermont 1. 25 

Virginia 1. 55 

Washington 1.90 

West Virginia . . . 1. 55 

Wisconsin 1.55 

Wyoming 1.80 

MEXICO 
Mexico City, 

Tampico, Vera- 
cruz City 3.15 

Altar Banamichi, 

Chihuahua City, 

Cuaymas, Her- 

mosillo, Mata- 

moros, Tamau- 

lipas, Monterey, 

Sabinas, Salti- 

llo, Sauz 1.90 38 

Other stations... 3.25 65 

DOMINION OF CANADA 

Manitoba 1.90 

New Brunswick.. 1.25 
Northwest Terri- 
tory of Canada. 1.90 

Nova Scotia 1.25 

Ontario 1. 25 

Prince Edward 

Island 

Quebec (Prov. of) 

Vancouver Island, 

Br. Columbia. . 



63 



125 

1.25 



38 

25 

38 
25 
25 

25 

25 



1.90 38 



Cape Breton, N.S. I.25 

Newfoundland... 1.25 
St. Pierre Mique- 

lon 1.25 



25 

25 



25 



38 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

Telephones. — A distinction should be made, under this 
heading, as to telephoning within Paris proper or outside of 
Paris. 

In Paris, you can telephone from any cafe or any Post- 
Office station. Moreover, same as New York, all large firms 
have the telephone. Telephoning from a cafe does not cost 
you anything. At the Post-Oflfice station, for 25 centimes 
(5 cents) you receive, at the window bearing the word 
" Telcgraphe," a ticke. which you present to the attendant 
standing at the telephone-box inside the station, giving at the 
same time, in writing, the name and address of the party to 
whom you wish to telephone. If the party addressed has no 
telephone, you can, upon the additional payment of 50 cen- 
times (10 cents) procure a supplementary ticket, which 
entitles you to dictate by telephone your communication, 
which is immediately delivered from the nearest station. 

Oictside of Paris. — Long distance telephoning can be 
done only at the Post-Oftice sub-stations or at the special 
stations. 

First, purchase a ticket at the window " Teligraphe," for 
the locality you wish to reach, the price for which is indicated 
in the table below. The time begins to count only from the 
moment you enter in communication. If, for any cause, you 
cannot reach the party called, you are at liberty to either 
keep your ticket for another time, or be reimbursed. 

Rates a}id Length of Co7nmu7iications. — Between points 
in France the rates are 25 centimes for 3 minutes up to 25 
kilometres; 50 centimes for 5 minutes up to 100 kilometres 
or fraction thereof. 

Between Paris and London, night or day, 10 francs for 
3 minutes. Between Paris and Brussels or Antwerp, 3 frs. 
in day-time for 5 minutes, and but 3 minutes allowed during 
the sittrng of the stock-exchange. Monthly rates, for daily 
communications of 10 minutes, 90 francs. After 9 P. M., 
I franc 80 centimes. 

Between France and Switzerland, the unity of time is 
3 minutes. The rates are made up from those charged in 
the two countries and divided in half. In France 50 centimes 
per 100 kilometres, in Switzerland 25 centimes per 10 kilo- 
metres and 50 centimes for a greater distance up to 100 kilo- 
metres, and 75 centimes for a distance beyond 100 kilometres. 

The Poste-Office and the Departure of Mails. 
— Postage stamps can be bought at the stations or from 
the tobacco dealers. The regulation weight of a letter is 
fixed at 15 grammes, requiring for Paris, France and 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 39 

Algeria, a stamp of 15 centimes (3 cents); for each addi- 
tional 15 grammes, or fraction thereof, 15 centimes (3 cents). 
For foreign countries, the postage is 25 centimes (5 cents) 
per 1 5 grammes or fraction thereof. 

The Post-Ofifice Department issue lo-centime postal cards 
good for all the countries belonging to the Postal Union ; 
card-letters of 15 centimes for France, and of 25 centimes 
for foreign countries. Also, stamped envelopes, of the de- 
nominations of 15 and 5 centimes, and wrappers of i and 2 
centimes. 

Receiving-letter boxes are to be found in all Post-Office 
stations, and you should carefully study their respective 
captions : 

PARIS DEPARTMENTS ETRANGER 
(Paris) (Domestic) (Foreign) 

In addition, almost every tobacco dealer has a receiving- 
letter box at the door of his store. 

In order to leave on the day of posting, letters should 
be dro])ped at the main station no later than 5 P. ]\i. The 
last round {levee) for letters addressed to the United States 
by the French steamer is made at 5 P. M. on Friday ; by way 
of England, at 5 P. ]M. on Tuesday. 

At the General Post-Office, in the Rue du Louvre, the 
mail closes at 6 P. M. However, several cafes make it their 
business to mail American letters as late at 6.45 p. M. 

Letters " To Be Called For." — In the event that you have 
letters addressed to you in Paris under the caption : " To be 
called for " {Poste restanfe), you must enquire for them at 
the General Post-Ofifice, Rue du Louvre, and be personally 
identifit^d, cr else produce at least two envelopes bearing 
your subscription. 



CHAPTER IV 



INITIAL PROMENADES IN PARIS 



First Promenade on Foot 

Presuming that you have reached Paris during the evening 
or late in the night, it is naturally out of the question to 
think of harnessing yourself to begin visiting Paris and 
the Exposition methodically. The fatigue inherent to travel- 
ling will likely keep you late in bed, and on rising you will 
have to devote some little time undoing your baggage and 
making a bit of toilet — all of which will leave you hardly 
over one or two hours before the regular breakfast bell 
which is rung at about ii A. M. Nevertheless, you should 
have a first glimpse of Paris and of the marvels in store and 
made to dazzle the foreign visitor. 

Considering that the majority of the hotels are located in 
the neighborhood of the theatre of the Grand Opera, the hotel 
interpreter will readily indicate to you the way to the Rue de 
la Paix. If, on account of the labyrinthine aspect of the 
streets and the lack of orientation usual with a visitor newly 
landed in a strange city, you experience some difficulty in 
finding your way, you should not, on the first day, be too 
parsimonious. Therefore, take a cab, and ask the interpreter 
to order the Jehu to drive you to the Rue de la Paix, at the 
corner of the Avenue de I'Opera, where you will give him 
1^ francs and dismiss him. 

Siarlit-seeing' on the Rue de la Paix 

. Now, allow me to take you along this marvellous Rue de 
la Paix, throughout which, in order to dazzle and tempt the 
shopper and the visitor alike, the windows of the jewellers 
rival in richness and artistic grace — here you are made to 
contemplate the chastened creations elaborated by the 
genius of the French artisan. There, also, you will find 
show-windows exhibiting the latest dress conceptions of the 
world-famed coiituriere (dressmaker), and further on, those 
astounding combinations which enter into the voluminous 
fashionable hat, as well as the stylish and dainty bonnet con- 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



41 



cocted by the niodiste. so light of texture and so diminutive 

in size, they could hardly hold one's breath. 

There is no risk losing one's way in this first promenade 
on foot in Paris. You may go straight ahead, and although 
limited to four hundred yards, the panorama embraces the 
vision of some of the most beautiful dressed windows in Paris. 
Further on an historical monument, with a green folliaged 
background, challenges your admiration, which is heightened 
on reaching a balconied street which leads you insensibly to 
a garden of such sudden marvellousness that you are made 
to feel as if transported to an enchanted oasis afar from the 
brutal activity of a great city. 

But while strolling in the Rue de la Paix, you should not 
fail to look critically at the shop windows, all of which are 
worthy of notice, especially those situated on the left side of 
the street, and whose names are world-famed. Here are an 
optician and a fashionable cutler; then the firm Coulon, 
with a tempting show of jewelry ; others with cut diamonds 
whose brilliancy is magnetic; a sumptuous antiquary shop; 
and lastly, at the angle of the Place Vendome, the artistic 
show windows of Boncheron, remarkable for the gems of 
the jeweler's art they contain. 

On the right: This is apparently the feminine side of the 
street, inasmuch as dressmakers are to be found almost at 
every door. Moreover, the mysterious and innumerable ar- 
ticles coming under the name of lingerie are here sump- 




VENDOME COLUMN, RUE DE CASTIGLIONE 



42 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

tuously exhibited at Doitcet, at Chapron, and others. The 
modistes and artificial flower dealers, with marvellous inimi- 
table imitations, are side by side with perfumery shops, such 
as Guerlain, the king of the poudre de riz parfumee. 

Place Vendome 

The Column Vendome was erected upon the square of 
the same name, by Napoleon I, in commemoration of the 
Grand Army (1805). It is- built after the style of the Trajane 
column in Rome. The bronze ornaments decorating- it were 
cast from the canons taken from the Austrians and Russians, 
and the plaques ornamenting its pedestal represent the most 
salient deeds of the campaign of 1805, while its summit is 
crowned by a statue of Napoleon I. 

Around the column and bordering on the square, you will 
first notice, at the right, the edifice of the Ministry of Jus- 
tice and the Chancery of France; a little further, that 
of the Military Governor of Paris, from which point you 
distinguish the gilded railing of the Garden of the Tuileries 
{Jai^din des Tuileries), which is reached after passing under 
the beautiful arcades of the Rue de Castiglione, where you 
should halt for a few moments before the show-windows of 
Barberis on the left ; peeping at a fan dealer, a jeweler, and 
an heraldry engraver on the right ; thence, on the left again, 
at the stores oi Jane and Forest-Bruxer, in order to admire 
their creations in dresses and the elegance of their lingerie. 

The Garden of the Tuileries 

Having crossed the street which traverses perpendicularly 
the extremity of the Rue de Castiglione and the Rue de Rivoli, 
• and having passed through the gates of the Tuileries Garden, 
you find yourself upon the terrace called Terr asse des Feuil- 
lants. Here, you will notice two groups in bronze— one at 
the right, the other at the left— representing animals, the 
work of the sculptor Cain. One of the great attractions of 
this garden, outside of the enticing beauty of its shade trees 
and well kept lawns and artistic flower beds, is the number 
of beautiful statues one meets at every step, all works of art 
from the most famous masters. The everchanging pano- 
rama of this enchanted historical garden has made it one of 
the most frequented spots of the great city. 

From the Terrace des Feuillants, on the left, and outside 
of the garden, you see the ruins of the former Tuileries 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 43 

Palace, and the recently erected Pavilion de Flore. On the 
right, the eye discovers the angle of the Place de la Concorde 
at its junction with the Rue Royale, and its animated 
throng of people. Facing is the Solferino Bridge, with the 
Boulevard St. Germain as a background, topped at the right 
by the gilded clock of the Ministry of War. 

Descending the steps which lead from the terrace into the 
garden proper, we will take to the right and admire the 
pretty children who have already invaded this beautiful resort 
in the company of their nurse, and make it resound with 
their joyous voices and frolicsome gambols— for the Tuileries 
Garden, as it were, is held in fee simple by the children of 
Paris. From our position in the Macademized Alley {Alice 
macadamzsee), which is traversed by the Central Alley, the 
view encompasses at the right a marvellous panorama. Out- 
side the gilded railing which encloses the Garden the eye 
first rests upon the Place de la Concorde, with its playing 
fountains from which descend silvery showers ; further on, 
appear the Avenue des Champs-Elysees and the Cycle 
{rond-poini), enlivened by rich equipages bound for the 
races and -mounted cavaliers returning from their prome- 
nade in the Bois; and, still further, in the dim distance, your 
admiration knows no bounds at the revelation of the monu- 
mental grandeur of the Arc-de-Triomphe, through whose 
portals genius alone has the right of way after death only. 

But it is now time to proceed and seek together the sights 
which may interest you^ within the precincts of the Garden 
proper. In art matters it is about the same as in love 
affairs — the personal bias is omnipotent. Therefore, I will 
adhere strictly to my chosen role of cicerone, and will merely 
indicate what is to be seen. The enclosed plan will be a 
guide to you, by following the itinerary marked by the 
guiding arrows on the traced path, you will see everything 
worth seeing and form a judgment in accordance with your 
personal likes or dislikes. 

From the point where we stopped in order to admire the 
view depicted above, let us proceed to the right by the prin- 
cipal alley, it will lead you to the octogonal basin, where 
children amuse themselves at miniature yacht sailing. Keep 
on to the right, and you will come to the last vestige of 
the once royal and then imperial palace of the Tuileries, 
destroyed by fire in 1871. Ascends the steps of the ter- 
race in front of you. and promenade at your ease upon 
the ball grounds (Jeu de Patnne), but stop in front of 
the antique statues which ornament the terrace on the 



ARC DE TRIOMPHE 

CHAMPS ELYSEES 
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE 




-II I U I ij ^^, 

' •^'^ y 



rue: dels tui leries 



PAVILION 
ot 



PAVILLON 
I K 
MARSAN 



Lisa? 

OF THE 

GROUPS, STATUES AND POINTS OF INTEREST 

IN THE 

With the Captions or Legends corresponding to th ^ 
figures on the Plan 



A. The Ruins of the Tuileries. 

B. Ball ground. 

C. Orangery. 

D. Octagonal Basin. 

E. Basin. 



3 a 

5- 

6. 



8. 
9- 

10. 

II. 

12. 

13 

14. 
16. 

17- 

iS. 

19. 

. 20. 

21. 

22. 

23- 
24. 

25- 

26 

27- 



Hercules throwing the 28. 

Hydra. 29. 

The four seasons. 30. 

nd4. Statues (antique style). 31. 

The Tiber. 32. 

The rivers Rhone and 33. 

Saone. 34- 
The rivers Rhine and 

Moselle. 35- 

The Nile, 36. 

Statues (antique style). 37- 

Lion and Serpent. 3^- 

Boar. 39- 

Aristate 4'J- 
Hippomenes. 

Atalanta. 41- 

Diana. 42- 

Nymph and Dog. 43- 

The Comedy. 44- 

The Grinder. 45- 

Phydias. 4^- 

Alexander. 47' 

Cincinnatus. 48- 

Draped Woman. 49- 

Death of Laius. 5°- 

The Lion, and Peacock. 5i- 

Abduction of Dejanira. 52. 

Pericles. 53- 

Abduction of Cybelus 54- 



Flora. 

Zephyris. 

At the Oui, year nin 

Lucretia and Collatin. 

A Corybant. 

A Priestess of Bacchus. 

Ennius carrying away An- 

chise. 
Omphalion. 

Hunter Carrying a Hind. 
Nymph writh Quiver. 
Venus with the Dove. 
The abduction of Orythi 
Cassandra imploring 

nervus. 
Alexander-the-Great. 
Lion and Crocodile. 
The Comedy. 
Aurora. 
Ugolin. 
Silence. 
Prometheus. 
The Soldier. 
Spartacus. 
Diana. 
Agrippina. 
Apollo. 
Daphnas. 
Ceres. 



4^ HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

left. Then retrace your steps to the ruins of the Tuile- 
ries, go down the staircase, and at your left you will per- 
ceive Bosco's bronze group of Hercules downing the Hydra; 
then, go around the basin, and pass in turn the symbolic 
representations in statuary of some of the notable rivers of 
the world, such as Le Tibrc, by Van Cleve ; Le RhSne and 
La Sdone, by Coustou ; on the opposite side of the basin 
you will admire Le Rhin and La Moselle, by Van Cleve, 
and Le Nil, by Bourdic. 

Now ascend to the terrace Du Bord de la Seine (Ter- 
race on the border of the Seine), here you will see the 
conservatory called l'0ra7igerie, where are kept during 
the winter the orange-trees which ornament in summe'? 
the alley bordering the Terrasse des Feuillants, and also four 
antique statues. Then retrace your steps and proceed 
straight ahead upon the terrace, passing Le Lio7i au Ser- 
peJit, by Barye, this will bring you back to the basin. 
Continue, leaving on your left Les Termes, a statue sym- 
bolizing the four seasons, next a Sanglier (Boar), then 
cross the alley by which you first came in and keep o' . 




THE GARDEN OF THE TUILERIES 

through the Garden until you come to a square where are 
grouped the statues of Hippo7nhie and Atalante, by Cous- 
tou. Here, after glancing at the group of Herctde et le 
Bi^n (Hercules and the Buffalo), come to a stand-stiU in 



48 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



THK lUILKRlES 

order'to enable you to cast your eyes around the basin and 
admire the beautiful group of statues indicated on the plan. 

It is at this point, on Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 
between four and six, that a military band discourses music. 

Do not cross the Rue des Tuileries, but return, following 
the path traced upon the plan until you have reached the 
other square in which is the group of Apollon and Daphne, 
by Theodon ; pass in front of Ceres and take the middle alley 
until you have reached the transversal alley at the point you 
left it, then keep on the latter, to your left, until you come 
'o the gate facing the Solferino Bridge. Ascend the terrace 
v\'hich borders upon the quays, and from this point of van- 
tage the view embraces both banks of the Seine for a 
long distance. When facing the quays, you will see, on the 
right and across the river, the House of Deputies, and 
'arther on, at the opposite end of the last bridge, appears 
lie dome of the Hotel des Invalides, while in the dim dis- 
tance the eye catches the silhouette of the Eiffel Tower. 
Resume the promenade : at the extremity of the terrace, 
which runs along the Rue de Rivoli, stands the Pavilion de 
Flore, the present quarters of the Ministry of the Colonies. 
On your left, between that structure and the Pavilion de 
Marsan, its mate, there are more flower beds with twelve 
more statues well v;orth seeing. On the side opposite the 
Rue de Rivoli, which you have just crossed, this extension 
of the garden is intercepted by the Place of the Carrousel, 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 49 

upon which is erected on a reduced scale an Arc of Triomphe 
which challenges your admiration. 

But it must be near breakfast time, and if you feel like 
eturning to your hotel and are not sure of finding your way 
alone, signal a passing cab, and give the driver, verbally 
or in writing, the name and address of your hotel. If you 
prefer to breakfast at a restaurant, you can do so in the 
neighborhood. 

Carriage Ride 

After breakfast, in order to widen your first general 
acquaintance with the physiognomy of Paris — having already 
acquired a partial knowledge of the stores, works of art, of 
the architecture of some of its public edifices and monu- 
ments — you should be initiated to the life of the Paris Ele- 
gant, a world of itself, which is on the eve of giving signs of 
life in brilliant equipages at the afternoon promenade be- 
tween 3.30 and 6 o'clock. 

Hand your coachman the counterpart of the following 
itinerary, printed in French on a perforated leaf at the front 
of this book. 

Avenue Henri Martin. — Porte de la Muette. 
— Avenue de St. Cloud until you reach the Belt 
Road. — Around the lower lake, on the left. — 
Pre Catalan. (Stoppage.) Road of the Great 
Cascade. — Avenue de la Reine Marguerite, to 
the right. — Stoppage at the Pavilion d'Arnie- 
nonville. — On the right, by the road facing the 
Pavilion. — The Fortifications road. — Porte 
Dauphine. — Avenue du Bois. 
This itinerary begins with the Avenue Henri Martin, on 
both sides of which are medium-sized residences with flower 
beds fronting. A bridle-path runs through the centre of the 
avenue. When you have reached as high as No. 130, you 
will notice on your right a new building of great depth ; its 
principal entrance is on the Rue de la Pompe, which inter- 
sects the avenue a little further on, the edifice in question is 
the Janson de Sailly Lyceum {Lycie Janson de Sailly), one 
of the most beautiful and luxurious edifices of its kind in 
France. Beyond the Rue de la Pompe, but on your left, you 
will come upon another large edifice which may evoke your 
curiosity. It is the Mayoralty of the XVI^ Arrondissement 
(i6th Precinct). 

A few minutes later, the eye begins to distinguish an 
extensive mall with rows of trees extendmg beyond the 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 51 

vision : you have reached the famous Bois de Boulogne. 
Here you follow a superb roadway with plenty of shading, it 
is the Avenue de St. Cloud, which leads to two lakes, the 
large and small lakes, between which you pursue your 
drive. This is one of the most marvellous points of the 
Bois. Lakes and islands, the latter, shaded abodes of rest 
for boating parties, are alike entirely and solely due to the 
creative genius of Mr. Aphand, whose admirable skill as a 
landscape gardener has evoked from almost nothingness the 
beautiful panaroma which surrounds you. 

The drive around the lake will lead you to the Allee de la 
Grande Cascade, which you will soon leave to turn into the 
Avenue de la Reine Marguerite. Here I advise you to step 
aground for a few moments in order to contemplate the 
grandeur of this avenue. Resuming your drive on the right, 
you will reach the Allee de Longchamps — a portion of which 
is also known as the Allee des Acacias — you then have 
reached the ultra-select spot where alike the feminine high- 
world and semi-world — fashionable and professional beau- 
ties, actresses of genius and wonderful talents and those 
merely gifted with histrionic physical charms, vie one with 
the other in the display of the most exquisite Parisian ele- 
gance on the one side, and crushing extravagance on the 
other. The parody, To see and to be seen, paraphrases the 
situation justly. Pursuing to the Pavilion d'Armenonville, 
where you make another stoppage, you are brought to the 
term of your journey. 

Returning, you drive through the lane which borders 
on the Fortifications, to the Porte Dauphine, and, following 
the line of thousands of carriages which precede yours, you 
drive through the Avenue du Bois — one of the most elegant 
and animated parts of Paris — until you reach the cycle at 
the Arc-de-Triomphe. 

The chapter treating of " Amusements and Pleasures " 
will tell you how to spend the evening. However, I may be 
permitted the advice — which will relieve you of the trouble 
of dressing afresh — of dining at the Cafe de Paris, in the 
Avenue de I'Opera, and from there to spend your evening at 
the Theatre-Frangais. 






THE COLUMN OF JULY ON THE PLACE DE LA BASTILLE. 



CHAPTER V 



VIEW OF PARIS IN THREE PROMENADES 



A few words of Explanatiom 

I do not propose, in this chapter, to show the tourist Paris 
in its entirety, nor to have him visit all the public monu- 
ments. My aim is to furnish the visitor a resumen in three 
distinct promenades of the different aspects of the several 
quarters or boroughs into which Paris is divided. He will 
be given a glimpse of the major part of the monuments 
worth seeing, without, however, visiting them. A special 
chapter (Chapter VI) is devoted to the description of each 
and every monument, with a view of enabling the tourist to 
visit at leisure those which may interest him more particu- 
larly. Having come to Paris more especially to see the 
Exposition, the object of this chapter is to give to the tourist 
a general idea of Paris on broad lines, without intruding too 
much on his time, which, in virtue of a probably fore- 
ordained plan, he desires to consecrate principally to the 
Exposition. 

With this object in view, I have laid the itinerary of these 
promenades, each of about three or four hours' duration. 
Detach from the perforated leaf tipped in the front of this 
book the French version of the following itinerary, and hand 
the same to the coachman when ready to leave. 

FIRST CARRIAGE PROMENADE 

From the Bastille to the Church of the Made- 
leine, through the boulevards. — Rue Royale 
and Place de la Concorde. — Avenue des Champs- 
Elysees. — Avenue du Bois. — Returning by 
Friedland Avenue. — Rue Auber. — Place de 
rOpera. 
Before undertaking this promenade, I would advise you to 
breakfast, at about 1 1 a.m. on the Place de la Bastille, at 
the restaurant Gruber. 

Having finished your breakfast, you begin your drive from 
the Bastille, as indicated. But here, permit me to rememorate 



54 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

the historical events relating to the square surrounding you. 
Before the French Revolution, on the Place de la Bastille 
stood the famous prison which gave the name to the square, 
and which was levelled on the 14th of July, 1789. It was 
here where prisoners of State and men famous in history 
were confined, some of them for periods of more than twenty 
years. To-day, nothing is left of the dungeon but the few 
mementoes distributed among the museums. In the centre 
of the square rises a column of 47 metres (about 1 57 feet) 
known as " La Colonne de Juillet." It was erected in 1840, 
in commemoration of the victims of the Revolution of July, 
1830, whose names are inscribed upon the shaft itself, which 
is crowned by a statue symbolizing The Genius of Liberty. 
An inner staircase leads to the top of the column. 

The railroad station you see on the northern corner of the 
square is that of Vincennes ; this railroad goes to the race- 
course and the locality of that name. Still on the north side 
of the square, but towards the centre, you will see a busy 
thoroughfare full of animation, it is the Rue of the Faubourg 
Saint-Antoine (St. Antoine Suburb Street). This quarter is 
exclusively devoted to business, and the furniture manufac- 
turers of Paris monopolize almost the entire street. Among 
the most important are : 

The successor of Krieger, who, in 1889, received the 
Grand Prix de Paris for household furniture, and the estab- 
lishment of Damon at No. 74. A stroll through the shops 
and salesrooms cannot be but useful and interesting. All 
the streets in the neighborhood of St. Antoine Suburb — Rue 
Castex and Rue Charenton— are tenanted by dealers and 
manufacturers of household furniture of every description, 
from the most sumptuous to the very ordinary. In the Rue 
du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, there are also Delaunay and 
Maillefer ; Derouge, in Rue Charenton, and Flandrin, in 
Rue Castex. 

On the BouleTards 

Your carriage now takes its place in the long procession 
of vehicles of all descriptions which paces along the boule- 
vards for a distance of over four kilometres, and which is 
kept moving in perfect order and precision by the police 
stationed at every street corner. You will successively defile 
by the Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, where, on the right 
of the square of the same name, you will see the Cirque 
d'Hiver, and, finally, the Boulevard du Temple, which crosses 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



55 



the street of that name and where is situated the Market of 
the Temple, which is the abode of dealers in second-hand 
clothes. The whole of this quarter of Paris has a raggy 
aspect and moldy smell. Life, which is exuberant one hun- 
dred metres away, is seemingly paralyzed here, but you 
experience a great transition on reaching the Place de la 
Republique. 




THE STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC 
(Square of the Republic) 



On this public square is erected the statue of the Republic, 
which rises above the group formed by the three statues 
symbolizing Liberty, Equality and Fraternity surrounding its 
base. The twelve bas-reliefs represent the most memorable 
epochs in the history of the French Republic. 

We have now reached the Boulevard St. Martin, not to 
that part of it which derives characteristic animation from 
the beautiful and artistically dressed windows — but to the 
portion along which the theatres are located almost side by 



56 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

side. Firstly, on the right, are the Folies-Dramatiques, then 
the Ambigu, further on is the Theatre of the Porte Saint- 
Martin, where Coquelin recently created the role of Cyrano 
de Bergerac, and almost contiguous to the latter is the 
the Renaissance Theatre, which until last year was the 
property of Sarah Bernhardt. We still pursue on the right 
side of the Boulevard until we reach the Porte Saint-Martin, 
which has given its name to the celebrated theatre illustrated 
by the famous Frederick Lemaitre. The Porte Saint-Martin 
was erected in honor of Louis XIV, the bas-reliefs orna- 
menting the structure represents scenes in the reign of that 
illustrious sovereign. 

By this time we have reached the Boulevard Saint-Denis, 
which is intersected by a great artery bearing on the left the 
name of Boulevard Sebastopol and that of Boulevard de 
Strasbourg on the right. Leaving behind the Boulevard de 
Strasbourg we come on the same side of the square to the 
Porte Saint-Denis — the counterpart of the Porte Saint-Martin 
— which was also erected in commemoration of the glorious 
reign of Louis XIV. And still on the same side, is the Rue 
du Faubourg Saint-Denis, with its extension on the left under 
the name of Rue Saint-Denis, both of which are great 
business streets, with elegant stores from the start, among 
which that of Grosse, fan dealer, and the great stores of 
the Porte Saint-Denis. On the Rue Saint-Denis, several 
jewelers, among which, Alexandre, and the stationer 
Co Hot. 

The Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle follows the Boulevard 
Saint-Denis. Here the stores are still more numerous, and 
among the best are : 

Garnihre, dealer in incandescent lamps ; a jewelry store 
with the specialty of corals ; an electrician ; jewelers ; Mar- 
gueritate, manufacturer of musical instruments, and a lace 
store. 

Further on, the white edifice which the eye meets on 
the right is the Gymnase Theatre, situated at the corner of 
the Rue d'Hauteville, and in the distance in that street is 
seen St. Vincent-de-Paul, an edifice of very imposing ap- 
pearance. On the corner of the Rue d'Hauteville, as a kind 
of annex to the Gymnase Theatre, is situated the restaurant 
Marguery. 

From this point we directly enter into the Boulevard Pois- 
sonniere, which also counts several beautiful stores : 

The shoemaking establishment of La Fashion ; the jew- 
elry store of Le Comptoir d'Horlogerie, at No. 9; the 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



57 



famous Aubusson carpets, at No. 23, and Boutron, dealer in 
chocolate, teas, etc. 




THE COMPTOIR NATIONAL D ESCOMPTE. 



On the right, at about half way on the Boulevard, at the 
extremity of a short street, you will notice a reddish con- 
struction with a dome, it is the seat of the Comptoir Na- 
tional d' Esco77ipte (National Discount Bank), where you can 
obtain commercial letters of credit which are payable at any 
of its numerous following agencies : 



Offices in Paris 



Boulevard St-Germain, 176. 
Boulevard St-Germain , 3. 
Quai de la Rapee, 2. 
Rue Rambuteau, II. 
Rue Turbigo, 16. 
Place de la Republique, 21. 
Rue de Flandre, 24. 
Rue du 4-Septembre, 2. 
Boulevard Magenta, 84. 
Bouled Richard-Lenoir, 92. 



L Avenue de Clichy, 36. 
M Avenue Kleber (Passy), 87. 
N Avenue Mac-Mahon, 35. 
Boulevd Montparnasse, 71. 
P Faubourg St-Antoine, 27. 
R Boulevard St-Michel, 53. 
S Rue Pascal, 2. 
ij, j Boulevd de Courcelles, 2. 

\ Avenue de Villiers, i. 
V Avenue d'Orleans, 85. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



Offices in the Suburbs 

Levallois-Perret, Place de la Republique, 3. 
Enghien-les-Bains, Grande-Rue, 47. 
Asnieres, Rue de Paris, 8. 
Charenton, 50, Rue de Paris. 



Agencies in France 



Abbeville 

Agen 

Aix-en-Provence 

Alais 

Amiens 

Angouleme 

Aries 

Avignon 
*Bagnieres-de-Luchon 
fBagnols-sur-Ceze 

Beaucaire 

Beaune 

Bergerac 

Bezier 

Bordeaux 
*Bourboule (La) 

Caen 

Calais 

Cannes 

Carcassonne 

Castres 

Cavaillon 

Cette 

Chaghy 

Chalon-sur-Saone 
fChateaurenard 

Clermond-Ferrand 

Cognac 
fConde-sur-Noireau 

Dax 

Deauville-Trouville 

Dieppe 

Dijon 

Dunkerque 

Elboeuf 

Epinal 
•j-Ferte-Mace (La) 

Firminy 

Flers 

Gray 

Havre (Le) 

Hazebrouck 



Issoire 

Jarnac 

Lezignan 

Libourne 

Lille 

Limoges 

Luxeuil 

Lyon 

Manosque 

Mans (Le) 

Marseille 

Mazamet 

Mont-de-Marsan 
*Mont-Dore (Le) 

Montpellier 

Nancy 

Nantes 

Narbonne 

Nice 

Nimes 

Orange 

Perigueux 

Perpignan 

Reims 

Remiremont 

Rivesaltes 

Roande 

Roubaix 

Rouen 
*Royat 

Saint-Chamond 

Saint-Die 

Saint-Etienne 

SaJon 

Toulouse 

Tourcoing 

Trouville-Deauville 

Vichy 

Villefranche-sur Saone 

Villeneuve-sur-Lot 
fVire 



London 

Liverpool 

Manchester 

Tunis 

Sfax 



Foreign Agencies 

Sousse San Francisco Majunga 

Gabes New Orleans Tamatave 

Bombay Melbourne Tananarive 

Calcutta Sydney Tangier 



The Comptoir National d'Escompte de Paris is moreover th 
depository of the banks of the French colonies, in Algeria, Indo 

*Open during the season. tOpen weekly for business on market days. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 59 

China, Guadaloupe, Guyana, Martinique, Reunion and Senegal, 
and its capital is Frs. 110,000,000. 

Operations of the Comptoir 
Commercial paper and warrants discounted. — Collections in 
France and abroad.— Deposits on sight.— Check accounts with 
interests. — Loans on collaterals and merchandise,— Drafts issued 
and fund's forwarded.— Stock Exchange orders.— Investments.— 
Circular letters of credit payable throughout the entire world.— 
Maritime mortgage loans. — Current account and collateral credits 
opened. — Safe-keeping of titles at Paris, in France and abroad. — 
Coupons of all kinds paid.— Guarantee collections at par.— Sub- 
scriptions to all public loans. — Purchase and sale of foreign 

coins. 

Location of Safe-Deposits 

at the Principal Office, No. 14 rue Bergere ; at the Branch 
Office, No. 2 Place de I'Opera and in the Principal Agencies, in 
France and abroad (for the safe-keeping of titles, valuables, 
jewelry, etc., from 5 francs per month up). 

Further on, at No. 30, you will find the superb bronze 
works of Barbedienne, which are universally celebrated. 

We then cross on the right the Rue du Faubourg Mont- 
martre, and on the left is the Rue Montmartre, excessively 
crowded and full of activity. Newspapers are located in this 
street, and it is in full activity until 4 o'clock in the morning. 
The Rue du Faubourg Montmartre deserves to be seen 
in its entirety to Rue de Chateaudun. In the latter, at 
No. 10 bis, the eyes are immediately attracted to the Maison 
Krgzna, in front of which you will find the elegant turn-outs 
of the wordly and fastuous feminity who have called to make 
their selections ahead of the foreign element. Retracing our 
steps, we come back to the Boulevard Montmartre, and im- 
mediately on your right you cannot help but admire the 
show-windows of the store Gladiator; on the left, an 
English shoe store; the art bronzes of Colin, the clock- 
maker ; Auer Light Company ; a very old bakery ; then, on 
the left, you pass the Theatre des Varietes, situated almost 
at the corner of the Rue Vivienne, which leads you to the 
Bourse (Stock Exchange). 

After crossing the public place— which is always crowded 
—at the intersection made by the boulevards and the Rue 
Drouot on the right (where are located beautiful stores) and 
the Rue Richelieu, with the statue of Moliere, on the left, 
begins the Boulevard des Italiens. This boulevard is con- 
sidered the finest of all in every respect. The character of 
the stores and the distinguished appearance of the stream of 
promenaders has made it the acknowledged ultra elegant 
spot of Paris. On the right, halt in front of the gunsmith's 
shop, the book-store Flammarion, the new and sumptuous 



6o 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



quarters of the Cafe-Riche, the renowned confectioner next 
door, tie Bohemian glassware, the art bronzes of all kinds 
which are always interesting to examine, then come English 
and American railroad ofifices and a store of fine Dutch 
cordials. On the left, give a glance to the entrance of the 
Passage des Princes, and the Express Bar. 

The Theatre of the Opera Comique is one door from the 
boulevard on a side street. The theatre was inaugurated 
only a year ago ; its main entrance is on Boieldieu square. 




THE FOUNTAIN MOLIERE 



which is reached through Rue Favart. Further on, we find 
on the right of the boulevard the fashionable restaurants. 

On the left is a large white edifice wliose doors are 
always crowded with busy people going in and out, it is 
tenanted by the Credit Lyonais. The Theatre des Nouveau- 
tds is right opposite. You will also notice a few stores 
facing on the Boulevard, at the corner of Helder Street, and 
thence following a gentle declivity you will reach the corner 
of Rue Louis-le-Grand, where is situated the ancient Pavilion 
de Hanovre. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



6i 



We have now reached the Chaussee d'Antin. marking 
the end of the Boulevard des Italiens, and at the corner of 
which is situated the restaurant Patllard, facing the Theatre 
du Vaudeville, which is the first house on the right side of the 
Boulevard des Capucines. Passing the Vaudeville Theatre, 




THE OPERA COMIQUE 



we come in front, same side, of a great linen house, and 
further on are the Remington Typewriters and Lhre- 
Cathelin. 

On the left, there is a series of fine stores, where almost 
everything can be found— objects of art, tapestry, costly 
books, Japanese curiosities and extra fine confectionery. 

The Opera 

The boulevard then cuts across the magnificent square 
of the Opera, the right side of which is entirely occupied by 
the monumental edifice of the Grand Opera, of which we 
now perceive but the frontage, with its ground story orna- 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 63 

merited by eight symbolic statues in relief : La Pocsie Ly- 
rique, by Jouffroy ; La Musique, by Guillaume ; L'Idylle, 
by Aizelin ; La Dcclaination, by Ghapu ; Le Chant, by Du- 
bois de Vatrinelle; Le Drame, by Falguiere ; La Danse 
and Le Draine Lyriqiic, by Carpeaux. 

The Grand Cafe de la Paix is at the angle made by the 
square and the boulevard, and next to it is the main en- 
trance of the Grand Hotel. 

A step further you find the sign, in bold lettering, of the 
Compagnie Gcticrale Transatlantiqiie : it is the passenger 
ofhce where tickets for New York are sold, and where 
return tickets are checked in the emergency you are provided 
with excursion fare. 

We have now come to the Boulevard de la Madeleine, 
where is located, on the left side, the celebrated house of 
Legoupy, with an exposition of valuable engravings equally 
attractive to the connoisseur and the curious ; the stores of 
the Car7iival de Venise ; a carpet and furniture establish- 
ment of the first-class ; a shop of artistically curved tortoise 
shell articles ; jewelry stores, modistes, and, finally, the store 
Trots- Quar tiers. 

The Madeleine Church 

All the boulevards, along with the Boulevard de la Ma- 
deleine, end conterminously in front of the church of the 
Madeleine, which assuredly is well worthy of a visit. The 
exterior of the church, with its frontispiece of tall columns, 
will impress you, and its architectural style, borrowed from 
the Roman temples, has an undefinable attraction. 

Rue Royale 

We will now turn to the left and enter into the Rue 
Royale, one of the broadest artery of the great capital. On 
the right you will come across well-known jewelry houses, 
such as Fontana and Mermillod ; there is also a veiy interest- 
ing display of photographic views a few steps further. On 
the opposite side of the street the stores are of the same 
category: jewelry, artistic furniture, and photographic views 
vie one with the other to attract the attention of the prome- 
nader, and probably the one who carries the palm of attrac- 
tiveness is the display of the great florist on that block. 

This street is rather short. On the left it ends at the 
Ministry of Marine, where it empties on the Place de la Con- 
corde, famous among all in history. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 6C 

Place de la Concorde 

It is pn this square that over three thousand persons, 
Louis XVI with the rest, were guillotined during the first 
Revolution. 

Here leave your carriage for a few moments. The first 
thing that will call your attention is a great pyramid in 
stone-ware, seventy-five feet in height, and covered with 
Egyptian inscriptions. It is made of a single block and was 
presented to Louis-Philippe by Mehemet Ali, pasha of Egypt, 
where it comes from. The rigging and tools which served 
to its transport and its erection in France, figure upon the 
pedestal. On the right of the obelisk is the gate to the 
Garden of the Tuileries, through which you perambulated 
the day after your arrival in Paris. 

From where you stand, you see the Chamber of Deputies 
on the other side of the Seine. At both extremities of 
the inner square where stands the column, there are two 
fountains surmounted by statues throwing streams of water 
which falls in spray in the reservoir below. There are eight 
statues forming the delimitation of the square, each repre- 
senting a great city of France. The most popular of those 
statues is that of Strasboiirg by Pradier, which a delegation 
of patriotic Alsatians decorate with wreaths on the national 
feast day ; this statue is the one nearest to the Ministry of 
Marine. The others represent Lille, by Pradier; Bordeaux 
and Nantes, by Calhouet ; Rouen and Brest, by Cortot; 
Marseille and Lyon, by Petitot. 

Having enjoyed the magnificent spectacle presented by 
this incomparable public square, reenter your carriage, and 
the coachman will drive along the 

Ayenue des Champs-Elys^es 

through its entrance at the Place de la Concorde, which 
is indicated by two statues representing horse tamers and 
called Les Chevaux de Marly. They are a symmetrical 
counterpart of the winged horses which ornament the out- 
gate of the Tuileries and facing them. 

There is always a large and animated concourse of people 
on this Avenue, and naturally to a greater degree during the 
Exposition. From this spot you can admire at ease the main 
entrance of the Exposition, which is erected on the Champs- 
Elysees. The two first edifices on your left — built on the 
very spot of the former Palace of Industry — are the Petit 
Palais and the Grand Palais. In order to reach it, you will 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 67 

pass in front, and on the left, of the Jardin de Paris. Facing, 
on the other side of the Avenue, is the Concert des Am- 
bassadeurs, and in the back, the Restaurant des Ambassa- 
deurs, and next to it, the Concert de I'Alcazar. 

The Avenue in front of the Grand Palace of the Exposi- 
tion is named the Avenue Marigny ; it is partially occupied 
on the right by the Palais de I'Elysee, which is the official 
residence of the President of the Republic. Opposite the 
Avenue Marigny, at the corner of the Avenue des Champs- 
Elysees, is the Marigny Theatre, a circular byilding. 

A little further, in the Champs-Elys^es, and on the same 
side, is the Cirque d'Ete, which is built on the cycle of the 
Champs Elysees, whilst on the other side of the Avenue, the 
Ice Palace is the structural pendant to the Cirque. 

From this point the Avenue des Champs-Elysees conti- 
nues uninterrupted until it reaches the Arc-de-Triomphe; 
however, in this portion it is devoid of the profuse shading 
afforded by the trees of the Garden. But it is bordered on 
both side by somptuous residences ; business establishments 
here are scarce. 



Place de I'Etoile and Arc-de-Trioiuplie 

The Avenue des Champs-Elysees ends at the Place de 
I'Etoile, where twelve large avenues have their terminus. In 
the centre of the cycle is erected the Arc-de-Triomphe, 
which, begun in 1806 in commemoration of the battle of 
Austerlitz, was completed but thirty years later. On the 
pilasters which support the arc, there are sculptural subjects 
deserving attention. Facing you, on the right, Le Depart 
de lygs by Rude, is reputed to be the most artistic group of 
the four ; above is the Funeral of Marceau. Turning to the 
right you see on the left La Resistance d I' envahtssement, 
and above it the Passage of the Bridge of Areola ; then 
Les Bienfaits de. la Paix, singularly emphasized by the 
group immediately above representing La Prise d'Alexan- 
drie. Finally Le Triomphe (1810), representing Murat 
capturing Mustapha. From the summit of the monument, 
which is reached by a staircase, the view is one of the most 
])icturesque in Paris. 

The carriage will take you from here to the Avenue du 
Bois, with which you are already acquainted, and thence you 
will recross the Place of the Arc-de-Triomphe to drive 
through the Avenue Friedland. 



68 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

Friedland Ayenue 

Here the scene changes completely, it is devoid of the 
bustle and animation we have just passed through. Fried- 
land is a residential avenue, monopolized by the famihes of 
financiers and merchant princes ; and, comparatively, it is 
quite shprt, ending at the intersection formed by the Rue du 
Faubourg Saint-Honor^, in which is seen, looking to the left, 
the Beaujon Hospital, on the right side of the street. 

Bouleyard Haussmann 

We are now entering the Boulevard Haussmann, which 
retains some of the characteristics of Friedland Avenue, 
of which it is a kind of an extension. The Boulevard is at 
first intersected on the left by Messine Avenue, the junction 
forms a semblance of a square upon which is erected the 
Statue of Shakespeare. Pursuing down the Boulevard 
Haussmann, you reach its intersection with the Boulevard 
Malesherbes which takes place on large square upon which 
is erected the beautiful and rich church of Saint-Augustin, 
which you should visit if you can spare the time. While 
facing the church you will see on your right, at the corner of 
Rue de la Pepini^re, the infantry barracks of that name, and 
a few steps further, the small Delaborde Square. 

Pursuing your drive on the Boulevard Haussmann, you 
will see on the right the large stores of the celebrated Potin; 
continuing to the right you will come to a cluster of trees 
surrounding a monument, it is the Expiatory Chapel erected 
in memory of Louis XVI. A little further on, you come up to 
a square upon which is erected quite a large building bearing 
the name of Le Printemps (The Spring) and which has 
the outward appearence of a department store. However, it 
does not come up in size or variety to its elders in that 
branch of commercial activity, much less to the most won- 
derful of all, Le Bon Marche, which is not alone the 
largest of all, but at the same time the most magnificent for 
the richness of its goods and the surprising completeness of 
its assortment, which covers everything the imagination of 
man can conceive. 

On your left, at the bottom of the street which crosses the 
Boulevard, you can see one of the wings of the railroad Sta- 
tion Saint-Lazare, the converging point of all the trains run- 
ning through the western part of France. 

We now leave the Boulevard Haussmann and enter in the 
Rue Auber, and again find ourselves in the midst o{ a luxu- 



/O HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

rious business quarter. On your right and left, shop win- 
dows are so elaborately and artistically dressed that your 
curiosity will be assuredly tempted. Many English houses 
are here represented, the Cooks, Mainbys, etc., etc.; jew- 
eleis, diamond dealers, with here and there a fashionable 
shoemaker, a dealer in fine Chinaware and cut glassware, 
or a merchant of exquisite cordials, etc. Before reaching 
the Opera, of which the right view stands in front of you, 
are the offices of the Compagnie et de la Banque Generale 
Transatlantique, located undoubtedly in the most mag- 
nificent edifice owned by any maritime company. Here, 
you may be sure that all desired information about steam- 
ers or travelers you are interested in will be given you 
in your own language, with the greatest pleasure. 

The first promenade is now over, and you have been 
through a pretty good portion of Paris. If you are 
dressed for the theatre you had better dine in the imme- 
diate neighborhood, at the Cafe de Paris, kept by Mourier. 
It is one of the restaurants in vogue in Paris, on account 
of its table recherchee and its exquisite wines. 



«— ««CP j^f ^.53^— » 



"^4 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE yi 



SECOND CARRIAGE PROMENADE. 

Starting : Place de I'Opera^ — Avenue de 
^ I'Opera — Place du Theatre Frangais, stopping at 
the Palais Royal — Place du Carrousel — Quay 
of the Louvre — Quay of the iVI^gisserie — Quay 
of Gesvres, stopping at the City Hall — Areola 
Bridge — Rue d'Arcole, stopping at the Church 
of Notre-Bame — Quay of the Marche-Neuf— 
Boulevard du Palais, stopping at the Court 
House — Quay of I'Horloge, Rue de I'Horloge 
— Rue de Harlay — Quay des Orfevres — St. 
Michel Bridge — Place St. Michel — Boulevard St. 
Michel — Rue de Medicis — Rue de Vaugirard — 
Rue d'Assas, to the right — Rue du Cherche- 
Midi, to the right — Rue de Sevres — Rue du 
Bac — Boulevard St. Germain — Place de la Con- 
corde — Rue de Rivoli. 

Before commencing this promenade, you should take 
breakfast at one of the- numerous restaurants which are in 
the vicinity. 

Having finished your breakfast, the starting point will 
begin at the spot where ended your first promenade of the 
day previous, on the Place de I'Opera. I will omit speak- 
ing again of this monument, of which you have already 
admired the frontispiece; but I will invite you to cast a 
glance about the square, not so much on account of the 
architectural beauty of the houses erected around it, as 
for the commercial importance of the firms located here. 
On the right, the sleeping-car; Cook's agency in front; a 
celebrated confectioner again on the right, and on the left 
the stot'es of well-known houses, such as those of Dr. 
Piene, for instance, or those of Moet & Chandon, the tele- 
graph agency of the Journal des Debats and a theatrical 
agency. 

At the corner of the Avenue de I'Opera, which opens be- 
fore you, begins the Rue de la Paix, where you made your 
first promenade on foot. The Avenue de I'Opera is un- 
doubtedly the finest avenue in Paris, owing principally to 
the elegance and richness of its stores, the special care be- 
stowed by the municipality upon its broad driveway and 
sidewalks, and also on account of its beautiful and costly 
apartments, commanding the highest rental in Paris, and 
f;;om whose balconies the view embraces the splendor of 
this incomparable thoroughfare in its fuHncss. 



72 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



Among the most brilliant shop windows that of Braun, 
the official photographer of the Louvre and the National 
museums, the celebrated Liberty in front, Cunard on one 
side, Flammarion, a dealer in paintings and Venetian vases 
of rare beauty, on the left; a jeweler who is a specialist in 
fine pearls; some artistic sculptors on the left; a v/ell- 




known dealer in coffee not far from a merchant of canes 
well known to the old Parisians; C. Gagne Peht on the 
right, then a number of stores containing all specialties in- 
cidental for traveling. 

The avenue has its outlet in the Theatre Francais Square, 
named after the theatre, which stands at your left on the 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



73 



square. The exterior of the theatre, which is considered as 
the sanctuary of the legitimate drama in France, is not in 
keeping with its interior, in which are crowded artistic 
marvels and upon whose stage are daily represented mas- 
icr^icces of French art. Your carriage, in rounding 
the square, will come to a stop at the left of the theatre, 
on the riace du Palais Royal. Step down from your car- 
riage to examine the famous show-windows which monop- 
olize the whole space between the balconies and the pavc- 



Pf^PRSPSB^P^i^ 



ms^m^mm 




THE MINISTRY OF FINANCE. 



ment. First, the balcony bordering on the gardens. Ii 
lakes the name of the gallery of Montpensier on the left 
and the gallery of Valois on the right. The transverse gal- 
lery, which you see on your right on entering, is the gallery 
of Orleans. These galleries deserve a visit, especially on a 
bad day, when you do not know where to direct your steps. 
It was formerly the centre of Paris, much frequented by 
the snobs. It is now decadent, especially since the open- 
ing of the Avenue de I'Opera; also, the galleries of the 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



75 



Palais Royal have been abandoned one after the other by 
the large jewelry houses formerly congregated there, which 
have now moved, with their shop-windows, to the most 
conspicuous places surrounding the Madeleine and the 
Opera. It is, however, worthy of a visit on account of its 
old-fashioned jewelry stores, containing antique engrav- 




i igs and heraldic devices, ([uaintly carved. As for the gal- 
lery of Orleans, it ofTers a strange view in being the centre 
of a commerce quite Parisian in its nature, and pretty 
flourishing, in selling clothes and wraps for little dogs. 
You can see there all kinds of furnishers, shoemakers and 
tailors for these interesting animals. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 7/ 

On leaving the Palais Royal, the carriage crosses the 
Rue de Rivoli, and then passes under the Ministry of i<"i- 
nance (located in the new Louvre) by the double-vaulted 
gate which opens upon the Place du Carrousel. The first 
thing to attract your attention, on the left, will be a large 
monument, almost new in appearance. The monumuiu 
was erected in honor of Ganibetta, the organizer of liic 
National Defense. The famous tribune is represented in 
a speaking attitude, while on the apex of the pyramid is 
the figure oi Democracy, symbolized by a young female 
urging on a winged lion- On the other side of the square, 
but more to the right, is the Arc du Triomphe du Car- 
rousel, of which you had a glance from the Tuileries Gar- 
den. All around, except on the right side, which is taken 
up by the Tuileries, the square is wedged in by the struc- 
ture of the Louvre Palace. After passing under the im- 
mense archways which lead to the Seine, you will drive to 
the left up to the quays. On your left the Louvre Palace 
entends its architectural grandeur until it reaches the 
square to which it gives its name. Opposite the main en- 
trance of the palace is the church of St. Germain I'Auxer- 
rois, a church famous in the annals of pitiless religious in- 
tolerance, for it was from its towers that was tolled the 
massacre of St. Bartholomew. The church is worth visit- 
ing from a purely artistic point of view; however, of this 
more anent in the following chapter. Continuing upon 
the quays, we soon arrive at a bridge for the exclusive 
use of pedestrians, and called the Pont des Arts (Arts 
Bridge), which spans the Seine, anchoring on the other 
side in front of the Institut, which is the abode of the five 
academies, of which the one known as the French Academy 
is the principal. Further on is the Pont Neuf (New 
Bridge), after which we come to the Pont du Chatelet. As 
we shall, later on, retrace our steps by this way, I will for 
the present refrain from calling your attention to the edi- 
fices and monuments on your right. I will merely inform 
you that the agglomeration of stones having the idealistic 
form of antique feudal castles is known by the euphemistic 
appellation of La Conciergerie — a more or less polished 
name for a common prison. But on looking to your left 
in the Place du Chatelet you will see two theatres facing 
each other; the one on the side of the Louvre is the Chate- 
let Theatre, and the other is the Sarah Bernhardt Theatre, 
named after and managed by the great artist vyho has been 
applauded in all the capitals of the world. 

The next bridge has its terminus on the City Island (lie 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 79 

de la Cite), where we shall proceed after admiring ilie 
beautiful City Hall, which is on our left. 

During the raging times of the Commune, in 1871, the 
City Hall (H6tel-de-VilIe) was destroyed by the incendiary 
torch. It has been reconstructed since. In its precincts 
are held the sessions of the Municipal Council, but its right 
wing, abutting on the quay, is the olficial residence of the 
Prefect of the Seine. The statues between the windows 
are those of celebrated men. The clock is one of the most 
remarkable and artistic parts of the whole frontispiece of 
the edifice. It is framed on each side by pilasters orna 
minted with statues representing respectively Labor and 
Study; the coat-of-arms of the City of Paris is supported by 
females, while two statues crown the central campanile. The 
group formed by the clock and the seven statues surround- 
ing it deserves assuredly a few moments of attentive criti- 
cism. 

Stepping again into your carriage, and continuing your 
promenade on the quays bordering the City Hall, you will 
perceive on the same side the equestrian statue of Etienne 
Marcel, a rather martial arrangement for a provost of the 
Paris merchants in the XlVth century. 

The bridge upon which we now enter is called the Pont 
d'Arcole (Areola Bridge). It leads to the parvis of the 
Church of Notre-Dame, which was so often the theatre 
of the tumulLuous meetings of the Fronde under the minor- 
ity of Louis XIV., and where the people also massed them- 
selves to hear the Te Deum sung in thankful acknowledg- 
ment of the victory won by the great Conde at Sens. 

We now stand on the City Island (ile de la Cite); that is, 
upon the spot which was the cradle of the City of Paris. 
The River Seine here branches of¥ in two streams to be re- 
united lower down, at the Pont-des-Arts. 

The Church of Notre-Dame is the Cathedral See of 
Paris; it is also one of the oldest churches in France, its 
foundation dating back to 1163. You naturally should visit 
its interior, but. until you have time to do so critically, cast 
.'I ;j;lancc on the frontispiece, which consists of a triple por- 
tal. That of the centre is the Portal of the Last Judg- 
ment; Christ, by Geoffrey Dcchaume, ornamcnTs the el- 
liptic; on the pilasters, on either side of the main door, are 
grouped the Wise and Foolish Virgins. The left door, 
known as the Portal of the Virgin, is more elaborate than 
its counterpart on the right; the Virgin is represented 
trampling under foot the serpent, while Adam and Eve ap- 
pear in relief on the pedestal, with statues of saints harmo- 



80 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

niously distributed on both sides of the door. The third, 
or the portal at the right, is dedicated to St. Ann. 

As you leave the parvis of Notre-Dame you will per- 
ceive on the right side of the square a large edifice; it is 
the Hotel Dieu, one of the most important and justly cele- 
brated hospitals in Paris. We now take the Quai du 
Marche Neuf (^New Market Quay). On the right and par- 
allel to the Quai we come to a large building, stern in 
aspect. It is the Prefecture de Police (Police headquar- 
ters), where are concentrated the various oiifices of the 
Paris Police and Public Security. The Prefet (chief) has 
his residential quarters in the building. A few steps fur- 
ther we turn to the right and enter the Boulevard du 
Palais, and we will stop in front of the Courthouse (Palais 
de Justice) and facing the Tribunal du Commerce. Of the 
Courthouse you now see but the gilded railing and the 
monumental stairs, which lead to the Hall of the Pas Per- 
dus (Lost Steps). However, in the next chapter, we shall 
visit the interior of the Palais (page 102); but if you have 
the time now, you should visit the steeple, which behind 
you, on the left, towers above the structural agglomeration 
of the Temple of Themis, and belongs to the Holy Chapel 
(Samte Chapelle). (Page 102.) 

Continuing our promenade around the Courthouse, we 
come in front of the Conciergerie (an historical prison, 
contiguous to the Palais, and which is on the visiting pro- 
gramme in Chapter VI.) (Page 76). The Conciergerie 
faces the Place du Chatelet. The great tower, with its clock, 
at the corner of the Boulevard du Palais and the Quai dc 
I'Horloge, are worth visiting for their curiosity and age. 
We keep along the Palais on Harlay street, following for a 
few moments the Quai des Orfevres, and cross the Bridge 
St. Michel, which abuts on the square of the same name. 
On the right, in the background of the square, is the St. 
Michel fountain, where a group of bronze represents St. 
Michel felling the dragon. On either side of the foun- 
tain are columns in reddish marble, with four statues. La 
Verite (Truth;, La Prudence (Prudence), La Justice (Jus- 
tice), La Force (Strength). 

We shall now go up the Boulevard St. Michel, which is 
the soul-life of the famous Latin quarter. Few that have 
not heard of the spirited Latin quarter, where the students 
of all the great schools and colleges congregate and enliven 
its learned precincts with their antics. Although frolicsome 
to the extreme, the Parisian student is neither rough nor 
wicked: he is simply fond of laughter. It is a spectacle 
worth the while to watch them coming down their Boule- 



now TO SEK PARIS ALONE 



8l 



vard St. Michel at about four in the afternoon, singing the 
joyous refrains of their college songs. But the student is 
at his best in the evening, and is an interesting study when 
seen seated in one of those cafes which spread their tables 
on the sidewalk of the Boulevard St. Michel, especially at 
Vachette. 

If tempted by curiosity, proceed to the place unincum- 
bered. Vou will find the hilarious youth of the quarter 
draining, in the most conformistic style, countless beer 
mugs and applauding scraps of oratorical volcancity until 




TOWER OF ST. JACQUES. 

the small hours of the morning. These diuturnal libations — 
so great is the constitutional elasticity of the Parisian stu- 
'dent — do not seem to affect him in* the least, for he is 
found, punctually on time, at the opening of the various 
courses at eight o'clock in the morning. 

We leave the Boulevard St. Alichel opposite the larger 
garden of the IvUxembourg one of the most beautiful gar- 
dens in Paris. If you have the time, you should take a 
walk through it, as it contains, besides a very replete mu- 
seum, many artistic and beautiful things, which are all de- 
scribed in the following chapter. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 03 

Your carriage will proceed by the Rue Vaugirard. From 
the beginning we find, on the left, surrounded by the green 
lawns of the Luxembourg, the Senate Chamber. Once out- 
side of the Luxembourg, we have left the Latin quarter, 
and we are fully on the left side of the River Seine, in a 
so-called aristocratic quarter, the gloomiest of all Paris. 




THE BON MARCHE. 



Here shops are rare, pedestrians scarce and con- 
structions worth mentioning do not exist, but, after pass- 
ing through two small streets of a cemetery-like stillness, 
we finally reach the Rue dc Sevres, where life and bustle 
are predominant. 

We are in tlie quarter of the greatest retail shops in the 
world, among which the "Bon Marche," where reigns from 



84 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



ten in the morning until eight o'clock of the evening the 
most astonishing animation. 

Speaking of the "Bon Marche," the extraordinary suc- 
cess of that undertaking- — the pioneer of its kind in the 
world — is a well-deserved one, and, moreover, Madame 
Boussicaut, the founder, has devoted the immense fortune 
realized from this daring enterprise to an infinity of benev- 
olent deeds and large humanitarian works. 

Proceeding around the huge edifice of the "Bon Marche," 
we reach the Rue du Bac, which leads us to the Boulevard 




STATUE OF JOAN OF ARC. 



St. Germain, a quarter somewhat permeated with gloomi- 
ness and in preference inhabited by the wealthy nobility. 

We finally reach the Pont de la Concorde, leaving on 
our left the Chamber of Deputies or the Bourbon Palace, 
whose frontispiece is almost an exact counterpart of that of 
the Madeleine on the opposite side of the Place de la 
Concorde. The steps to the Chamber are ornamented by 
statues of Themis and Minerve, of Aguesseau, Cal- 
bert, I'Hospital and Sully. Twelve columns support the en- 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 8$ 

lablaturc, the frieze of which represents France holding the 
constitution, surrounded by the symbolical figures of Lib- 
triy, Agriculture, Peace and Order. 

The carriage having crossed the Place de la Concorde 
will take the Rue de Rivoli, which borders on the Tui- 
leries, the left side of which is entirely constructed in ar- 
cades. Here you give the coachman the order to return, or 
to drive to one of the restaurants in the neighborhood. 

You pass before the statue of Joan of Arc. In the vi- 
cinity you can dine at the Restaurant Foyot, facing 'the 
Senate. 



THIRD CARRIAOE PROMENADE. 

Porte Maillot — Road from Porte Maillot to 
Porte des Sablons — Road from Madrid to Porte 
Maillot — Jardin d' Acclimation, stop — from Jar- 
din d'acclimation to the Chateau de Madrid by 
the road from Porte Maillot to Madrid — Return- 
ing by Madrid Road to the Lakes — Suresnes 
Road — Dauphine Gate — Avenue du Bois. 

This promenade should be made in fair weather. Leave 
about half-past nine in the morning, in order to breakfast 
surrounded by the green foliage in the midst of a luxuriant 
vegetation perfuming the air. According to the itinerary 
given the coachman, he will first drive through Paris to the 
Porte Maillot, an entrance to the Bois de Boulogne, which 
you have not yet seen. He will drive you by the route of 
the Pone Maillot to the Porte des Sablons, where you will 
meet thousands of bicyclists riding up the Boulevard Mail- 
lot, which is on your right. The carriage will pass behind 
the Pavilion d'Armenonville — a restaurant where you 
stopped a few days ago — and will take you by the grand 
Avenue de Madrid, which passes in front of the Acclima- 
tation Garden, where we shall stop. 

The Garden of Acclimatation is undoubtedly the most 
beautiful of its kind. Here are gathered and nursed animal 
and vegetal species from the whole world. The harmo- 
nious display of accumulated natural riches reposes the 
eye and is at the same time a relaxation to the mind. The 
price of admission on week days — the place should be vis- 
ited on week days, for the crowd on Sundays makes it un- 
comfortable — is 2 francs in the morning, i franc in the af- 
ternoon and on Sunday it is lo cents. 

You enter the Garden through a turnstile, at the side 
of the iron carriage gate, which lands you on the right side 



86 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

of the Main Alley (Allee principale). Cross the alley ob- 
liquely, in order to reach the Conservatory, which is the 
first edifice at the left of the Main Alley. After having 
visited the Conservatory in every way, leave the place by 
the door facing the one through which you came in; it will 
lead you to the Palmarium, a new structure where fine con- 
certs are given and where a very select restaurant is estab- 
lished. The place and the hour are both propitious for 
breakfasting. 

The breakfast over, you quietly resume your promenade, 
following the itinerary, specially devised to enable you to 
see every curiosity in this living museum. I recommend 
you to witness, at the Otaria Basin, the meal of the seals, 
a performance which takes place at three o'clock and which 
is very interesting. 

In the centre of the garden, at the music stand, very 
good music is played every afternoon. There is also the 
Panorama of the Antediluvian World, which is worth 
visiting, for lo cents. 

If children accompany you, do not fail to stop at the 
point marked Embarcadere. For a trilie, 5 or 10 cents 
each promenade, you may give them unmeasured happiness 
— without risk or danger — riding the elephant, the ponies, 
the camels, driving in a carriage drawn by an ostrich, etc. 
In the meantime, you may visit the riding academy. 

It remains for me to indicate two points which yoa 
should visit before leaving the garden, the monkey ca -ce 
and the creamery. In leaving the Palmarium you di 
rect yourself to the monkey cage. In Paris, as 
wherever zoological gardens exist, the habitat of the mon- 
key draws the greatest crowd. Is this universal attraction 
attributal)le to a mere sentiment of curiosity, or is it due to 
an unconscious affinity as predicated by the theory that 
man descends from the monkey? Be that as it may, it is 
with the monkey as with many among us, he is fond of 
nuts, provided they are not too hard to crack. Theories 
are procurable from philosophers, but nuts can be had 
for a few cents from the keepers. However, be very care- 
ful in handing ihem to our supposititious racial ancestors, 
for they might push their scientific inquisitiveness to the 
extent of attempting to find whether there is any truth in 
the saying that blood is thicker than water. 

The" Creamery is the other point of interest. Step in 
and take a cup of milk, of genuine warm milk, fresh from 
the cow, which is a rare treat outside the farmhouse. 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 8/ 

Leaving the Garden of Acclimatation, your carriage will 
continue on the Avenue de Madrid until it reaches the 
castle oi the same name. 

You are now driving on the road to the lakes, but 
on a route running through a portion of the Bois to- 
tall}- dilTerent from the one visited in your preceding 
i)romenade. Having gone around the lake and opposite 
you take the route de Suresnes which will bring you 
back to the Avenue du Bois, with which you are now 
familiar. 

Your carriage will now take its place in the brilliant daily 
pageant from the Bois. 



"^^^" 



CHAPTER VI. 



PUBLIC GARDENS 



It is hardly possible to take a jaunt of any extent through 
Paris without meeting green foliage, grassy plots or flow- 
er beds. The municipal authorities have shown in the mat- 
ter of disseminating here and there open breathing spots 
that they had at heart not alone the embellishment of Paris, 
but also the public health as well as intelligent concern 
for the proper physical development of the youth. There 
is not a quarter of Paris without its garden or square. But, 
in addition to these small squares, there are others, more 
pretentious in size and oftentimes very beautiful, both on 
account of this harmonious ensemble and the artistic ob- 
jects they contain. For mstance, the Tuileries Gardens, 
which we visited in ail its details the first day of our ar- 
rival. (See page 42.) 

The Tuileries Garden. 

The Tuileries are adjacent to the Champs Elysees. 
Strictly speaking it is more of an extensive and shaded 
promenade than a garden. The main alley, which di- 
verges to the right and left, enables the visitor to embrace 
the full scope of the landscape at his first promenade. Not- 
withstanding that the surroundings naturally remain the 
same, the spectacle in this garden changes surprisingly 
with the time of day. In the morning it is a solitude for the 
dreamer. At about one o'clock in the afternoon it is in- 
vaded by the children, who make its precincts resound with 
peals of laughter in front of the catch-penny shows, which 
never fail to draw also a fa-ir contingent of their equally 
naive elders. Then, before the sun disappears in the west- 
ern horizon, it is the turn of the brilliant mundane proces- 
sion returning from the Bois, and which you joined on 
your first carriage promenade (Chapter V., p. 53), which 
furnishes its dazzling quota of animation to this magnificent 
avenue, which will relax into dark stillness a few minutes 
later. 

But while the right bank of the river Seine prides itself 
on the Tuileries, the left bank claims the Luxembourg 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 89 

Garden, whose main entrance is on the Avenue de I'Obser- 
vatoire. 

Tlu' Luxembourg- Gardeu. 

Better stop at the corner of the street Auguste-Comte 
and the avenue of the Observatoire. If one has a carriage, 
tell the coachman to wait at the gate rue Vaugirard. 

Let us first glance up the avenue of the Observatoire. 
which is the continuation of the garden. At the extreme 
end of the avenue one sees the observatory, of which we 
will speak on another page. This avenue is partly cut by a 
number of gardens, called "Jardins Anglais," lighted by 
two rows of gaslight. On the right of the avenue there 
are several important buildings, the nearest to the Luxem- 
bourg, I'Ecole Coloniale touches the Lycee Montaigne, 
and nearby, on the same avenue, is seen I'Ecole de Phar- 
macie. The avenue ends at the place of I'Observatoire, and 
at the extreme end of it there is a fountain called Foun- 
taine de I'Observatoire, where one can see the works of 
Carpeaux and Fremiet. Carpeaux's four statues of bronze, 
representing four women, emblems of Europe, Asia, Africa 
and America, supporting a large globe. Over this globe 
falls a shower of water emitted from the mouth of marine 
horses, the work of Fremiet. Let us now cross the rue 
Augustc-Conite and enter into the Luxembourg. 

This large park has two principal walks, perpendicular 
to each other, and at their intersection there is formed a 
hemisphere, where a number of steps lead one to a large 
fountain or basin. 

Entering by the gate at the avenue of I'Observatoire, to 
one's right is seen the greenhouses. Continuing to the 
fountain, one passes at his left the beautiful monument of 
Eugene Delacroix, by Dalow. It represents Time bring- 
ing glory to the artist and applauded by the Genius of 
Arts. Around the octagonal basin of the fountain one can 
see, placed at regular intervals, twenty statues of women, 
celebrated in French history, the names of which are 
given on the itinerary a little further on; also those of 
the statues around the Musee of the Luxembourg and the 
Palace of the Senate, both of which are to the left. The 
walk on the right perpendicular to the one which has just 
been taken leads one to a gate on the Boulevard Saint- 
Michel, near I'Ecole des IMines. Before reaching the 
boulevard, one will see a music stand where three times 
a week— Sundays, Tuesdays and Fridays, at 5 p. m.— can 
be heard concerts by a military band. Almost at the gate 



90 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



to the right is a very pretty statue, the Mouth of Truth. 

To the left, below, is a very remarkable fountain. The 
Fontaine of Medicis, built by Debrosse, and facing the 
Musee, described further on, there is an entrance to the 
Musee rue Vaugirard. 

The Luxembourg has many large and beautiful, as well 
as artistic, statues, and is well worth visiting, notwith- 
standing that many Parisians fail to render it justice on 
account of the many students who use it as a thorough- 
fare, and whose merriment oftentimes becomes boisterous. 
(Carriages are allowed within the Luxembourg.) 




TRINITY CHURCH. 



The Monceau Park. 

The Monceau Park is an altogether different place from 
the two resorts precedingly described. It is a really po 
etical retreat in the very heart of Paris, and where Guy 
de Maupassant, the celebrated novelist, sought for his in 
spirations. The park is crossed by two broad avenues 
running at right angles one with the other, one of whic!) 
is the means of communication between the Avenue dc 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Ql 

]\[essinc and the Boulevard Courcelles, whilst the other 
unues tlie Avenue Hoche and the Boulevard Alalesherbes. 
The carriage road, which is in great use, begins at the 
gate on the Avenue de Messine and ends at the Boulevard 
Courcelles, opposite a rotunda known as the Chartres Pa- 
vilion, where the park keepers are lodged. About one 
hundred paces from this rotunda, through the alley on 
the left, yoif will find the monument of Guy de Maupas- 
sant, by Verlet. The bust of the novelist is raised on the 
summit of a pyramid at whose base is represented a 
woman seated on a bench, dreaming before a book spread 
open on her knees. This allegorical figure is borrowed 
from a portrayal in one of Maupassant's novels, who had 
a strong predilection for this pose, which he oftentimes 
selected as the theatre of the most stirring scenes elab- 
orated by his fertile brain. 

On your right you will see the ruins of a colonnade once 
erected on the border of the Naumachie, the name of an 
oval pond, frequented by some twenty ducks, with two 
or three swans proudly circumnavigating a limited area. 
Beyond this small pond you reach the avenue which is 
the communicating link between the Avenue Hoche and 
the Boulevard Maiesherbes. Near the Boulevard, at No. 
7 Velasquez Avenue — which is the name of the avenue 
running from gate to gate in the interior of the Park- 
is located the Cernuschi Museum, containing Chinese and 
Japanese collections. 

" Tlie Squares. 

As already stated, small squares abound in Paris. It 
. is in those squares boarding-schools and mothers of fam- 
ilies send their children to play from twelve to four 
o'clock; unnecessary to say that youthful exuberance pre- 
t^ails among the short-skirted and newly-breeched gentry. 
One of the largest of those squares is that of the Arts et 
Metiers (Arts and Trades), situated on the Boulevard 
Sebastopol opposite the Conservatoire des Arts et Me- 
tiers; it is worthy of a visit. Details will be found elsewher? 
But the most lively of all of them — probably on account 
of the great numbers of boarding schools located in its 
vicinity and of the large number of well-to-do people domi- 
ciled in that quarter of the city — is Trinity Square, named 
after the Church of the Trinity, which is a few steps from 
it, and deserves a visit, as it is one of the richest parochial 
churches of Paris. 




NOTRE DAME 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 93 

The (iJarden of Plants. 
(Jardiii des Plaiites.) 

The Jardin dcs Plantcs, situated Place Valhubert, oppo- 
site the railway station ut Orleans, is certainly a magnifi- 
cent public garden, and it would be entitled to important 
mention if I intended to treat of it in this paragraph. But 
the name Jardin des Plantes is an abbreviation of its full 
name, which is Museum of Natural History of the Jardin 
des Plantes, and for this reason we have placed this mu- 
seum of animate objects under the head of IMuseums in this 
work, and wc shall, therefore, ask the reader to consult 
page 173 for particulars concerning it. 

The Park of the Buttes Chaiiiuoiit. 

This park (Rue Bolivar), although in Paris, is but little 
known to the Parisian of the boulevards. It is located on 
the hill of Belleville, a part of the city given up to the 
workman; it is very hilly and is worth seeing. 

There is a grotto in which is a waterfall of 100 feet in 
height, and one of its chief curiosities. 

This cascade is formed by one of the artificial brooks 
which flow into the lake. This lake, which is covered with 
pleasure boats (they rent at 2 francs an hour),_is of about 
four acres in extent. In the midst of it a mass of rock 
rises in a peak to an elevation of about 150 feet, the sum- 
mit of which can be reached by a stairway of about 200 
steps, called le Chemin des Aiguilles, the Path of the 
Needles. Access to this is usually forbidden to the public. 

Park of Montsouris. 

This park lies completely without the limits of the City 
of Paris, and the most practicable route for reaching it is 
by the railway for Sceaux. station of the Luxembourg, 
which railway cuts it into two unequal parts. In the park 
itself is situated the meteorological observatory of Mont- 
souris. It is in the Moorish style of architecture, which 
figured in the Exposition of 187S, and is a reproduction of 
the Bardo, the palace of the Bey of Tunis. There is a 
wide view from it. 

Tlie Churches. 

I do not propose here to point out the particular beauty 
of the several Parisian rhurches, nor to give a nomencla- 
ture of them, masmuch as there are three or four churches 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 95 

in every quarter of Paris. The short-stayed visitor, how- 
ever piously inclined, could not find the time to visit them 
all, for the actual total number reaches over seventy, and 
more are erected every day, without taking into account 
the numerous chapels also assiduously frequented by the 
faithful. Aly simple duty is to mention those that are re- 
nowned for their architectural beauty or for the part they 
occupy either in the past or present history of France, such, 
for instance, as St. Germain TAuxerrois and the Russian 
Church. 

Americau Churches. 

It is only natural that I should mention in the tirst place 
the American Church at No. 21 Rue de Berri, offices at 11 
A. M. and 3 P. M., and the American Episcopal Church, 
No. Kj bis Avenue de I'Alma, offices at 8.30, — , n A. M. 
and 4 P. AI. 

English Churches. 

As to the churches in which the English language is 
used exclusively there are two, one No. 35 Rue d'Agues- 
seau, the other Rue des Bassins No. 7. 

The following is a list of the Protestant churches to be 
found in Paris: 

Protestaut Clmrclies. 

Confession d' Augsbourg. 
Tentple de la Redemption (Rue Chauchat, 16). 
Temple des Billettes (Rue des Arch). 
Oratoire de Saint-Marcel (Rue Tourneloit, 19). 
Oratoire de la Trinite (Boulevard de la Gare. 72). 
Oratoire de la Resurrection (Rue Quinnault). 
Oratoire du Bon-Secours (Rue Titon, 20). 
Oratoire des Batignolles (Rue Dulong, 47). 
Oratoire du Gros-Caillou (Rue Amelie. 19)- 
Oratoire de Montmartre (Rue des Poissonniers, 43). 
Eglise de la Villette (Rue de Crimee. 93). 
Eglise suedoise (Boulevard Ornano, ig). 

Eglises reformees. 
Temple de I'Oratoire (Rue' Saint-Honore, 145). 
Oratoire Saint-Esprit (Rue Roquepine. 3). 
Chapelle Milton (Rue Milton, 5). 
Chapelle Pentemmont (Rue de Grenelle, 106). 
Chapelle Sainte-Marie (Rue Saint-Antoine, 216). 
Chapelle de Bercy (Rue Proudhon, 6). 




ST. AUGUSTIN CHURCH 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 97 

Chapelle des Batignolles (Boulevard des Batignolles, 46). 
Chapelle de I'Etoile (Avenue de la Grande-Armee, 54). 
Chapelle de Clichy (Rue Gobert.5). 
Chapelle des Gobelins (Rue Lebrun, 35). 
Chapelle de Passy (Rue Cortambert, 19). 
Chapelle de Belleville (Rue Julien-Lacroix, 97). 
Chapelle de la Villette (Passage Thionville, 14). 
Chapelle de Charonne (Rue de la Reunion, 121). 

Eglises independantes. 
Temple Taitbout (Rue de Provence, 42). 
Temple du Luxembourg (Rue Madame, 58). 
Temple du Nord (Rue des Petits-Hotels, 8). 
Temple Saint-Antome (Avenue'Ledru-RoUin, 153). 
Mission populaire evangelique (Rue Royale, 23). 

Eglises methodistes et evangeliques de France. 
Temple Malesherbes (Rue Roquepine, 4), Culte Wesleyen. 
Temple des Ternes (Rue Demours, i6j. 
Temple des Batignolles (Rue Clarault, 20). 
Maison des Diaconesses (Rue de Reuilly, 95). 

Jewish Sj nagog-ues. 

In regard to Jewish Synagogues Paris counts very few, 
only four principal ones: 
15 Rue Notre-Dame dc Nazareth. 
21 Rue des Tournelles. 
44 Rue de la Victoire. 
28 Rue Bussault. 



NOTRE-DAJiJE.— The foremost Parisian Church is 
that of Notre-Dame, of which we have had occasion to 
admire the exterior in preceding promenades. The stained 
panes of the rose windows in the main and lateral portals 
date from the thirteenth century. That of the main portal 
represents m the centre the Virgin, Twelve Prophets, the 
Zodiacal Signs, and the labors of each month. The rose 
window of the lateral portal on the right represents angels. 
martyrs and apostles, with the armories of Cardinal de 
Noailles in the centre, who has had them restored; two 
large dark plates on the side of this portal are inscribed 
with the names of the hostages of the Commune, slaugh- 
tered at the prison of La Roquette or shot at the cemetery 
of Pere Lachaise on the 26th and 27th of May, 1871. The 
portal on the left represents the Virgin surrounded by the 
Kings and the prophets. 




4?VJ 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 99 

Entering the church by the middle nave you will pass 
in I'runt ui the pulpit — which is the work ut xvuigen, dat- 
ing nu later than iSbS — and leach the beautiiui raiung 
which divides the choir from the nave. The wainscoting 
of the clioir-stails will challenge your admiration, their 
bas-reliefs in wood represent scenes in the lives of Christ 
and the Virgin. In the background of the main altar 
a group by Coustou, and known as the votive offering oi 
Louis XIII., represents the Virgin, Christ and two angels. 
On each side of this group there are two statues, that of 
Louis XIII. on the rigbt and Louis XIV. on the left. 
In the back of the choir, to the right, you will notice twen- 
ty-three bas-reliefs dating from 1351; they illustrate the life 
of Christ from his birth to the Passion — the Visitation, the 
Washing of the Feet, the Flight to Egypt; whilst on the 
left side the Resurrection of Christ completes the Christian 
legend. The lateral chapels, which are numerous and very 
interesting, are mostly all memorials erected to archbish- 
ops or distinguished people inhumed therein. 

V/h'le visiting N^otre-Dame you should not neglect to 
see the Treasury, unique of its kind. Address yourself to 
the sacristan of the church, who is to be found on the right 
side of the choir, and who will, on the payment of ten 
cents and a trifle tip, accompany and give you all the 
necessary explanations. It is visible every day except be- 
tween the hours of 10 and 5 on Sunday. The Treasury con- 
tains the Sacred Relics, among which Christ's Crown of 
Thorns, one of the nails used in his crucifixion, a frag- 
ment of the real cross, the penitential robes of St. Louis; 
it contains, moreover, very numerous and very rich articles 
used in the religious service. 

-Mthough the interior of the church of Notre-Dame is of 
incomparable interest, the visitor is oftener attracted by the 
towers of that ancient basilic. Their reputation of being 
the highest point of vantage in Paris dates from time im- 
memorial; ihe Eiffel tower has not yet succeeded in ban- 
ishing tiiis long-rooted idea, and foreign tourists are there- 
fore aKvavs desirous of ascending the towers of No'.rc- 
Dame. They arc visitable between 9 and 5 o'clock. The 
admission is at the north tower, on your right coming out 
of the church, and the fee is four cents for the towers, or 
eight cents to visit the towers and chimes. The south 
tower contains the large bell, which has the intrinsic nu-rit 
of weighing about 28,000 pounds. 

LA MADELEINE. — If Notre-Dame, on account of be- 
ing the archbishopric of Paris, deserved to occupy the first 
place in these nr.'°K about the principal religious edifices 



lOO HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

of Paris, La Madeleine naturally takes rank as the most 
mundane or aristocratic parish church in Paris. If the 
visitor will station, himself, at the issue of the one o'clock 
mass on Sunday, on the lower steps of the monumental 
peristyle of the Madeleine, he will feast his eyes upon a 
strange admixture of mundivagant piety and tailor-made 
devoutness. The all-Paris elegant feminity — holy- 
water lotioned and Caudray aromatized— is on show de- 
scending the peristyle to the brilliant equipages lining the 
walk in front of the house of worship. However, the 
Madeleine, outside of the mundanity of its worshippers and 
the pagan style of its exterior architecture, is a monument 
worthy of admiration. As already stated, it is modeled 
after the Roman temples, encircled with a series of ma- 
jestuous colonnades with recesses for , thirty-four niches, 
occupied by statues of saints of both sexes. 

The twenty-eight steps lead to the main door in 
bronze, Vv'ith the bas-reliefs by Triquete, representing the 
Decalogue, all of which is crowned with a sculptured 
fronton by Lemaire representing the Last Judgment. 

The Madeleine is open to visitors only from one until 
six, excluding Sundays on account of the numerous ser- 
vices that are held on the Sabbath. On week days you 
will generally find the front door closed; admittance is 
gained by one of the side doors, under the lateral colon- 
nade. Tiie visitor is at first astonished by the absence of 
aisles in the interior of the Madeleine. The series of col- 
umns seen on the outside is repeated in the interior, each 
column supporting a tribune, and the lateral chapels are in 
the nave proper. Magnificent paintings, surrounded by 
beautiful statues, ornament the upper part of the chapels, 
but unfortunately the dim light which ordinarily prevails 
in the church prevents giving them the full share of ad- 
miration they certainly merit. However, you cannot help 
admiring, above the main altar, the graceful group, by 
Marochetti, of St. Magdalene carried to Heaven. 

ST. AUGUSTIN.— Next to the Madeleine in mundanity 
as well as location is the Church of St. Augustin, on the 
Boulevard Malesherbes. It is devoid of any artistic merit; 
its main altar is remarkable for the loudness of its decora- 
tions. The services are invariably pompous and the cere- 
monial faultless. 

ST. GERMAIN L'AUXERROIS.— This is the church 
to which we called your attention in the second prome- 
nade as the one from whose towers the signal was sounded 
on the 24th of August, 1572, for the massacre of St. Bar- 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE lOI 

tholomew. You are at first impressed by the originality 
of the frontispiece and the steeple, which date back io the 
twelfth and thirteenth centuries, as well as by the portico, 
\*ith its balcony overhead, and extending around the whole 
.•dit^f^e. The pilasters which support the arcades are orna- 
mented with statues: those on the right side represent St. 
Ccran, Landry and A gilbert, St. Ysabel of France, and St. 
Mathilde, St. Jane of Valois and St. Francis of Assisi; on 
the left side are the statues of St. Cloud and St. Clotilda, 
St. Redegonde, St. Alary the Egyptian, St. Denis, St. 
Aloval, St. Germain of Paris; the statue adorning the 
summit of the gable is that of St. Alichael. Over the 
main door is a statue of the Virgin, with St. Germain of 
Auxerre, St. Genevieve and an angel. 

The interior of this church abounds with objects of art 
and antiquities of the greatest interest. The stained-glass 
windows are especially remarkable, and some of them are 
very old. The church warden's pew is a marvel of cabinet 
work. The railing of the choir is of forged iron and will 
repay close examination, as w^ell as the several pieces of 
sculpture disseminated throughout the interior. 

ST. SULPICE. — One of the largest churches on the 
left bank of the Seine, and deriving great importance from 
the fact that the Great Seminary is its dependency. 

On the St. Sulpice Square a fountain is erected and dec- 
orated with the statues of Bossuet, Fenelon, Massillon and 
Flechier, celebrated by their learning, eloquent and as 
the most talented among the French preachers. 

The frontispiece is flanked with two towers, one of 
which is still unfinished. The interior is worthy of a visit. 
The frescoing in the chapels is remarkable, especially that 
of the Virgin, which is a masterpiece of the painter's art. 
The pulpit and the organ are also very much admired. 

NOTRE-DAAIE DES VICTOIRES.— This church 
is located on the square to which it gives its name, and 
quite near the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. If it was 
not for the fact that among a large number of the faithful 
it is a worshipping place of predilection. I would not 
have made mention of it, because, outside of the cabinet 
Work of the choir, it is artistically and architecturally de- 
void of special interest. 

SACRED HEART OF AIONTMARTRE. 

The Church of the Sacred Heart, still in course of con- 
struction, is situated at the top of Alontmartre. One can 
scarcely reach it except by special cab. Though incom- 
plete and surrounded by scaffolds, the divine service takes 
place. 



I02 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



One must apply to No. 31 Fontenelle Street, where ad- 
mission card is given for o fr. 25. The provisory entrance 
is on La Barre Street. Those who wish to visit the scaf- 
folds have to pay a fee of o fr. 50 (lOc). 

For the same amount one cin see the bell given by 
Savoie, called "La Savoyarde," weighing 27,065 kilograms. 
It is the largest bell in France. 

The church, when completed, will undoubtedly be a beau- 
tiful monument; but the details are, on account of the 
scaffolding, but little seen. 




THE HOLY CHAPEL 



When the visit of the church is over, do not fail to come 
to the flight of steps to contemplate a beautiful panorama. 
This is indeed a place from which, during clear weather, 
Paris is seen better. 

On the left of the church the immense construction you 
will perceive is a large reservoir, the capacity of which is 
about 11,000 cubic meters. In order to visit it, apply to 
the guardian, who will gladly receive a few cents as a tip. 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE IO3 

THE HOLY CHAPEL (La Sainte-Chapdle).— We 
place here the name of the Holy Chapel because it is gen- 
erally considered as a church. However, as the chapel is 
located in the Court House, its description will be found 
where we speak of that editice. 

THE SORBONNE CHURCH (I'Eghse de la Sor- 
bonnej. — Properly speakhig, it is not a church, but more 
of an historical chapel, inasmuch as all of the edifices 
which were clustered under the name of Sorbonne, this 
chapel is the only one that has not been reconstructed. 
Its erection dates from 16S5. 

The main entrance is on the Place de la Sorbonne. As 
the church is ordinarily deserted, you can visit its interior 
at leisure. A painting at the left of the main entrance 
will assuredly fix your attention. It is that of "Robert 
de Sorbonne Presenting His Young Pupils to St. Louis." 
On the right is the sepulchre of the Duke of Richelieu, who 
was a Alinister of State under Louis XVIII. But the 
church derives its greatest historical character from the 
fact that it contains the tomb of the great Richelieu, or the 
Red Duke, according to Alexandre Dumas. The sculp- 
tural work of the Cardinal's tomb is by Girardon. His 
Eminence is represented as leaning for assistance upon 
Religion and Science, while both of those symbolical fig- 
ures are shedding tears for the loss of this illustrious man, 
whose heart and cranium, which are now relics in the Sor- 
bonne Church, were for a long time a revered memento 
niori in the family 01 the author of the French version of 
this book. 

THE RUSSIAN CHURCH.— This church has ac- 
quired lately an historical celebrity from the fact that it 
was under its roof that the Franco-Russian alliance was 
sealed, when His Majesty the Czar of all the Russias 
placed his hand in the hand of the President of the French 
Republic amidst the acclamation of the delirious Parisian 
population. 

In the exterior of the church, with its gilded dome, lies 
its chief attraction. But if on a Sunday or Thursday, the 
only days visitors are admitted — between three and five 
o'clock — you should find time to enter it, outside of the 
general disposition customary in all Greek churches, i. e., 
vestibule, nave and sanctuary always closed, with paint- 
ings representing Jesus. Mary and some Russian saints, 
you will not find much to impress you. 



104 HOW TO SEE FARIS ALONE 

The Cemeteries. 

Unless taken there for one's own good and last ac- 
count, or through a feeling of sentimental duty for the 
memory of beloved ones, a visit to a cemetery cannot be 
considered in the light of a cheerful recreation. Conse- 
quently, if one of the Paris cemeteries — owing to its riches 
and the variety of its monuments and the immense de- 
velopment it daily acquires — was not a spot to tickle the 
curiosity of the tourist, I would dismiss the subject by sim- 
ply stating that the French Capital is provided with eight 
immense cemeteries, giving their names, as follows: Est, 
Passy, Picpus, Montmartre, Nord, Sud, Montparnasse, and 
lastly that of Pere Lachaise, which deserves a few de- 
scriptive details for the reasons stated above. 

THE PERE LACHAISE. 

Le Pere Lachaise is ordinarily the last abode of dis- 
tinguished people and of the "have beens" of fashionable 
society. In fact, it is tres comme il faut— after death, of 
course — to crown one's fashionable life by being buried 
in Pere Lachaise, because, epidemy or no epidemy, it is 
all the fashion. It can be visited in all its magnificence 
only on foot, which would consume a great deal of time. 
However, a very fair general idea can be had of this vast 
necropolis from a carriage promenade through its drive- 
ways, which have names the same as the avenues of the 
Bois de Boulogne. If you are desirous of seeing all the 
monuments you had better secure the services of an at- 
tendant at the pavilion on the right of the main entrance. 
This will cost you at least three francs (sixty cents). 

Among the most -emarkable monuments, either on ac- 
count of their architectural beauty or the celebrity they 
commemorate, are, on the left of the principal avenue, 
those of Alfred de Musset (poet), Lenoir, Varin, Paul 
Baudry, and at the bottom of the avenue the monument 
to the dead. On the right, Ledru-Rollin, Cousin, Auber, 
Arago, Mouton. 

The Hebrew Cemetery is on the right of this avenue, 
and therein stands the famous monument of Abeilard and 
Heloise. At the grand cycle, that of Casimir Perier, father 
of the famous President of the French Republic who re- 
signed the position five years ago. Further on Talma 
(actor), Delille (poet), Boieldieu and Gretry (composer), 
etc. 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE lOg 

The Crematory, on the right of the Transversal Avenue 
^fo. 2, is undoubledly one of the most distinguished morbid 
.ttractian in the Pere Lachaise Cemetery. However, admis- 
sion to tlie crematory must first be obtained from the 
nanager of municipal affairs through an application in 
vriiing. 

One of the cuiiosities of Pere-Lachaise is the oven for 
rremation. Il is situated at the right of the transverse ave- 
lue No. 2, and visitors can be admitted to it only by per- 
iiission of the Director of Municipal Affairs, which must 
je sought by a letter worded and addressed as below, and 
nclosing a postage stamp for 15 centimes for a reply: 

Monsieur le Directeur. 

J'ai I'honneur de soUiciter una autorisation pour visiter 
e crematoire du Pere-Lachaise. 

Agree/.. Alonsieur le Directeur, avec mes remerciements. 
'assurance de ma Iris haute et tres distinguee considera- 
tion. (Sign.) 
(Put address.) 

( )n the envelope: 

Monsieur le Directeur 

des Affaires Municipales, 

Annexe est de I'Hptel de Ville, 

Rue Lobau 2, Paris. 

The Museums. 

There are almost as many museums in Paris as there 
are churches. 

Our plan will, therefore, be the same as at the begin- 
ning of this chapter. 

We shall point out the principal museums, those con- 
taining works which are considered masteroieces. and 
the galleries which one ought to see. 

We shall not attempt to enumerate them painting by 
painting, because if you wish to visit a museum in all its 
details and stop before every picture, the catalogue for sale 
on the spot -would be a much more valuable guide than 
space would permit us to make of this one. Still, it is 
necessary to know how to use the local catalogue after you 
get It, and we shall point out the most practical manner 
to do this as we come to each museum. 



I06 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

MUSEUM OF THE LOUVRE. 

As was said at the beginning of this chapter, it is not 
intended to rival either Boedelcer or Joanne, and hence the 
reader will not be taken, room by room, through the won- 
ders of sculpture and painting and before the masterpieces 
which have accumulated in the Louvre. 

We shall confine ourselves -to pointing out a practical 
plan of visiting this museum. The principal entrance of 
the Louvre, ro which a cabby will readily take you, is with- 
in the court of the Louvre, Place du Carrousel. The palace 
of the Louvre is divided inio two principal parts, the old 
and the new. If you speak French the best plan is to take 
a local guide, who in three or four hours will take you 
about among- the principal sculptures and paintings; but 
if you wish to make a thorough and detailed visit the best 
plan would be to devote several days to it, and rely on the 
catalogue, which can be had at the door for a franc. 

Nevertheless, for those who wish to devote only three or 
lour hours to the visit we will point out some canvases 
and some halls which one ought to see. The museum is 
open every day of the seven, excepting Monday and days 
of important festivals, from lo to 4. At the door wraps 
may be left or not, as preferred; it is perhaps better not to 
leave them, as one seldom goes out b}' the same door 
by which one went in. 

It is a good plan to wander at will through those vast 
collections, but it is a help to know that the ground floor is 
given up to sculpture. One flight up are found paintings, 
drawings ind sketches; two flights up a collection of 
marine objects, very interesting, but not so good as the one 
at the Invalides. 

My fellow authors discourage the employment of a local 
guide on the general ground that they, like the custodians, 
..are badly informed. 

It is doubtless true that they know but little about Ru- 
bens or Raphael, but they know the way through the nu- 
merous galleries, and can guide you to different points, a 
matter of no small importance, for the distances are long 
in those immense halls; a walk through them is fatiguing 
and one easily loses oneself. There are two or three rooms 
in the Louvre worth}' of especial notice in sculpture, 
among others the Venus of Milo, the most celebrated 
statue in the world. It was found in 1820. It is thought 
to be the work of a contemporary of Praxiteles and 
Scopas. There is also the hall or room of Melpomene and 
that of Psyche. As to the Asiatic and also the Egyptian' 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE ID/ 

intiquities I am of opinion that it is necessary to have 
nade a considerable study of those subjects in order to de- 
■ive any particular satisfaction from a visit to those rooms. 
You might ask for the hall of modern sculpture; one of the 
landsomest of these rooms is that given to the works of 
Couston. The paintings, as has been said, are up one 
Hight, but a part of this t]oor is also occupied by the hall 
jf the jewels; among others the famous Regent diamond 
nay be seen here. 

The gallery of paintings proper is five-eighths of a mile 
ong; evidently it cannot be seen in five minutes, but a 
visitor, catalogue in hand, can go through it, and, as each 
picture is indicated by a number at the bottom of the frame 
and as a corresponding number is to be found in the pages 
of the catalogue opposite a description of the subject of the 
painting and the name of the artist, together with the 
date of the production of the painting, an intelligent glance 
at the whole can soon be had. The best known hall is the 
square one whose ceiling is so much admired by visitors. 

There are to be found works of Raphael, Rembrandt, 
Poussin, Titian, Van Dyck, Leonardo di Vinci — a great 
collection of notable painters. 

After that comes the large gallery, which will readily 
be pointed out to you, where the Italian, Spanish and 
Dutch schools have been collected, the paintings having 
been grouped together school by school. There is in par- 
ticular a Christ on the Cross, a Virgin with the Child, the 
Holy Family, the Virgin with the Scales, a St. John in the 
Desert, a Christ Crowned with Thorns, and, finally, in 
the center, a David Killing Goliath, a composition which 
has been much discussed. The Flemish and Dutch paint- 
ings predominate; to mention the most important would 
take too much space. The English and German schools 
are of relatively slight importance. The French gallery, 
on the contrary, is well filled. Rooms 14, 15, 16, and 18 are 
wholly taken up with French pictures. The jgallery of 
Apollo, rebuilt under Louis XIV., is unquestionably the 
finest hall in the Louvre. It takes its name from a picture 
by Lacroix, Apollo Conquering the Python. The hall 
Henry IV., although badly lighted, contains also some 
very fine paintings. The Louvre contains, moreover, col- 
lections of drawings, works of art, ceramics and a quan- 
tity of antiquities which might invite the curiosity of the 
visitor, but for all that a guide is useless, since each one 
can easily select for himself whatever pleases him without 
having the beauties of any particular work pointed out to 
him. 



io8 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



MUSEUM OF THE LUXEMBOURG. 

This museum is open throughout the year, excepting 
on Mondays, from lo to 4, and is assuredly, next to the 
Louvre, the most complete that we have. The entrance is 
by the Rue of Vaugirard, at the corner of the gate to the 
Garden of the Luxembourg, where was formerly the 
Orangery. An attempt has been made there to represent 




THE CLUNY MUSEUM. 



the school of living artists; the works of painters and 
sculptors still living are to be found in large numbers; 
each artist, however, can have no more than three of his 
works in the gallery. It would be advisable here also to 
purchase an official catalogue, which will enable you, both 
for sculpture and paintings, to identify the work of the 
artist and also the subject of his composition. The Museum 



now TO SEE I'AKIS ALONE IO9 

ut' the Luxembourg can be seen in two or three hours; 
therefore, we do not give many details of the works to be 
seen; the e.vc will easily direct you to the beauties of our 
young school; you will find in the sculptures a Falguiere 
which is certainly worth st)me moments of attention. 
Among the paintings Jean Paul Laurens, Jules Lefebvre, 
Alachard, Meissonier, Cabancl and many others are names 
which will sufticc to attract your attention. 

MUSEUM OF CLUNY. 

This museum, established in the old Hotel of Cluny, 
which yoti can see fiom the Boulevard Saint-Germain at 
the corner of the Boulevard Saint-Michel, is erected, it 
is said, on the site of an old Roman palace, of which a 
vestige, or rather some ruins, remain. It was called the 
Termes. The museum is open every day, except Monday, 
from II to 4. It contains ancient, artistic and industrial 
products of all sorts. Those fond of numismatics and lov- 
ers of antiquities will take great pleasure in long visits to 
this museum, but I think that the ordinary tourist, after 
having passed two or three hours in the hotel, will find 
his curiosity satisfied. The catalogue (4 francs) is in- 
dispensable here and leaving your wraps is obligatory, but 
there is no charge. One entering you find sculpture and 
works in wood; for that matter, the first two or three 
rooms arc devoted to objects of this sort. In the fourth 
you will find furniture, pieces of money and a mantel- 
piece of the sixteenth century, which is recognized of great 
value. In the fifth room, you will find some works of Ital- 
ian art, among them the Massacre of the Innocents, The 
Last Supper and the Worship of the Magi. The sixth 
room looks out on the Termes and the remains of the 
supposed Roman hotel. Up one flight you come to the 
tapestries, and, finally, in the ninth room, you find 
sledges, harnesses, etc. On this floor are also works in 
pottery and ivory, as well as things in iron, rare locks 
. and jewelry. 

MUSEUM CARNAYALET. 

This is the historic museum of the city. The complete 
history of Paris through the Revolution is here shown. 
It is open every day from 11 to 4. The deposit of your 
wraps is compulsory, but free of charge. It is useless to 
give details upon the contents of this museum for placards 
everywhere point to you the source from which the ob- 



PLAN DU JARDIN DES PLANTES 




A' 3.^.i.. . a.J.. 
PLAN OF THE GARDEN OF PLANTS 



1 Brongniart Square, small pond in 

the middle. 

2 Oxen from Indo-China. 

3 Antelopes. 

4 Wild Beasts, Lions, Panthers. 

5 Physiology Laboratoiy. 

6 StHgs, Does. 

7 8 Diverse Animals. 

9 Winter Houses of the Menagerie. 
9 8 Diverse Buildings. 

10 Birds of Prey, Vultures, Eagles. 

11 Pheasantry. 

II A Reptiles, Serpents, Alligators. 

12 Aviary. 

13 Diverse Goats. 

14 Diverse Antelopes. 

15 Parrots and Diverse Aras. 

16 Pond of Otanes. 

17 Cedar of Lebanon. 

18 Large Labyrinth 

19 Small Labyrinth, Plants, Reservoir 

20 Orange Walk. 
20A Seed Beds. 



21 Antelopes, Stags, Chamois. 

22 Large Aviary, with pond. 

23 Camels. 

24 Herons. 

25 Cranes. 

26 27 28 Poultry, Fowls. 

29 Zebras. 

30 Diverse Goats. 

31 Stags, 

32 Large Stags. 

33 Monkeys. 

34 Peacocks. 

35 Large Rotunda, Elephants, Cam- 

els and young Hippopotamus. 

36 Chamois. 

37 Hares of Patagonia. 

38 bears. 

39 Buffaloes. 

40 Goats. 

4 t Peacocks. 

41 42 43 Ducks. 

44 Diverse Animals. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I I I 

jects come. The sculptures on the front are worthy of 
notice; they represent the seasons and are attributed to 
Jean Goujon. 

lAIUSEUM OF ARTILLERY. 

In this museum are to be found, metliodically arranged 
all the changes which have occurred in weapons from the 
earliest times down to our day. It is situated in the Hotel 
of the Invalides. concerning which we give particulars on 
another page. There will be found a description of the mu- 
seum and the whole hotel. 

MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY OF THE 
GARDEN OF PLANTS. 

The Museum of Natural History belongs to the Jardin 
des PJantes; this gives rise at Paris to the habit of making 
no distinction between the two and of speaking of them 
indifferently under one or the other name. The Jardin des 
Pluntes has its prmcipal entrance Place Valhubert, almost 
opposite the old railway station of Orleans, a distant part 
of the city for. the foreign visitor. But if time does not fail 
you, this garden is certainly one of the sites of Paris most 
worthy to be seen. The best plan, if you intend to visit it. 
is to write, inclosing a postage stamp for 15 centimes for 
a reply, a letter worded as follows: 

A Monsieur le Directeur du Jardin des Plantes, 
Rue Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, Paris. 
Monsieur le Directeur: 

J'ai I'honneur de soUiciter de votre amabilite une carte 
d'entree pour les differentes galeries, serres, menageries 
du Jardin des Plantes. 

Veuillez agreer, Monsieur le Directeur, avec tons mes 
remerciements. I'assurance de mes sentiments les plus dis- 
tingues. (Signature.) 

(.Address.) 

These tickets, which will be sent you by post without de- 
lay, will give you the right of entry to the garden on the 
days named on the cards; you might perhaps get along 
without these cards, but you run a risk, if you visit the 
garden without express permission, of finding yourself 
there on days when some parts are not open to the public 
uidess provided with cards. The garden itself apart from 



112 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

the galleries is very interesting. The whole length of the 
promenades you will see, behind the cages which protect 
them and also you, animals of all countries. The notices 
placed aDO\ e the cages will tell you the names and source 
of origin of those animals. One can easily pass two or 
three hours there on a fine day. If you wish to follow the 
route laid down on the plan given in this book you will 
be able to take in the difierent curiosities assembled in this 
fine museum. To begin, entering by the Place Valhubert, 
yon pars by a sheet of water situated in the center of the 
square Brongniart; then, continuing, you see on your 
right cattle from India, antelopes, and on your left divers 
animals. Further along, on your right, you find the great 
animals of the cat family by the side of the laboratory of 
physiology, which itself adjoins the park for the deer and 
the goats; here we turn to the left to see successively the 
zebras, the fowls, the cage of the birds of prey, and after that 
the pheasants. Then we come along between the antelopes 
and the parrots, to stop for a moment before the basin con- 
taining the seals. If you like we can go as far as the small 
labyrinth, thence to the large labyrinth, and so through the 
magnificent flora as far as the orangery; then, retracing 
our steps after having passed the swans, we can resume our 
route before the park of antelopes; then, making the round 
among the chamois, we come to the place where are found 
the elephant, camel, white elephant, hippopotamus and 
dromedaries. After that the peacocks, and then we come 
opposite the monkey-house. Then we go back as far as 
the fowls to pass by the zebras and various other ani- 
mals, and thence go out, or direct our steps at pleasure 
toward the different museums which lie along the entrance. 
Smce we have come out of a museum where the animal 
reigns as the master, man being the most intelligent of 
animals, let us go into two museums where he is the. 
subject. 

MUSEUM DUPUYTREN. 

This museum, it may be said at the outset, can only in 
tcrest men, and then only such as are fond o* science. It 
deals in human infirmities; here all diseases have their 
history and the dissections which are shown here bring to 
your eye all forms of human misery. It is situated opposite 
the School of Medicine, and is open from lo to 4; to visit 
it nothing is needed excepting permission, which can be 
had at the ofifice of the Secretary of the School of Medicine 
opposite. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE Il3 

MUSEUM GREVIN. 

This second museum is gaj'er. Here arc to be found the 
celebrities in vogue. Ir is situated at No. lo Boulevard 
Montmartre, and is open from i o'clock in the afternoon 
to II. Tile price of admission is two francs during the 
week and on.e franc on Sunday. Every day from 3 to 6 
and from 8 to 10 an excellent concert may be heard. Once 
within the museum you see a large hall, in which it is hard 
to distinguish the works of the artists who prepare these 
tigures from living people in llesh and bone. In the cor- 
ner, on the right, you will sec a representation of the 
opera, a general rehearsal at the French comedy, Coquelin, 
the elder, in the role of Cyrano de Bergerac; at the end 
an audience at the Vatican, a camp bed of Napoleon, with- 
out enumerating all the novelties which from day to day 
are introduced by the fertile mind of the manager. Down 
stairs there are other galleries; on one side that of the 
Revolution, and on the other that of crimes which end 
en the scaffold. There, above all, a catalogue to give you 
:he names of all these personages is indispensable. Be- 
;ides tiie curiosities which I have mentioned the manage- 
ment of the museum has made a cabinet for X-rays, as 
well as a nice little theatre, accompanied by music, which 
plays every day from 3 to 6 and from 8 to 11. An excellent 
bar afTords refreshments as you look out on the winter 
garden. 

Public Buildings. 

Here more even than among the museums the author 
is obliged to restrain himself. There are at Paris so many 
beauties, from an architectural point of view, so many 
buildings lo which are attached souvenirs of glory or of 
bloodshed, so many edifices erected to genius, so many 
buildings under construction for the shelter of National en- 
terprises, that it is impossible here to give a description 
of them all. We shall confine ourselves to the most im- 
portant, stating the time at which they can be seen and 
the most practical way of employing that time advanta- 
geously. First, we will speak of that last resting place of 
the glories of the nation where lie Victor Hugo, Carnot 
and many others who have a place in history — that is the 
Pantheon. 

THE PANTHEON 

This monument, erected on the place bearing that name 
at the end of the Rue Soufflot, which was the name of the 
engineer who furnished the plans for the construction of 




THE I'ANTHKUN 



HOW TO SEE I'ARIS ALONE I I 5 

the edifice, is visible every day, except Monday, from lo to 
4. Tv.o sections of it can be seen only upon presentation 
of cards of entry, which must be asked for beforehand bv 
kUcr, inclosing a postage stamp of 15 centimes for a re- 
i)lv. This letter should be addressed to 

^lonsieur I'Administratcur dcs Beaux-Arts, 

Rue de Valois. Paris. 

Alonsiciir I'Administrateur : 

J'ai I'honneur de solliciter de votre amabilite une carte 
pour nioi et personncs. nccessaire pour la visile du dome 
et des caveaux du Pantheon. 

Agreez, Monsieur I'Administrateur, avcc mes remcrcie- 
mcnts, Tassurance de ma tres distinguee consideration. 
(Address.) (Signature.) 

Once in possession of the card of admission, the visit 
can be made. From the foot of the staircase leading up 
to the 2Z columns which form the front we see, above those 
columns, a bas-relief made by David d'Angers, la Patrie, 
between la Liberte and I'liistoire crowning the geniuses, 
her chddren: Maleshcrbcs, Mirabeau, Monge, Fenelon, 
Manuel, Carnot, La Place, David, Cuvier, La Fayette, the 
hero of America; Voltaire, Rousseau, Bichat, then Bona- 
parte, at the head of his celebrated warriors; Hoche, Mar- 
ceau, Massena, Kleber, Davoust, etc., and then quite to the 
right the students and pupils of the Polytechnic School. 
Over head is the dome with its cross placed above th^ 
lantern and which has never been taken down. The cro^ 
is due to the fact that this nionumcnt, which dates from 
1-64, was before the Revolution consecrated to religion, 
and it was only in 1791 that this inscription was put up, 
"Au\ Grands Hommes la Patrie Reconnaissante." Since 
thai time this monument has been twice devoted to re- 
ligion, and it was only in 1885, when the remains of Victor 
Hugo we-e interred there, that the monument became the 
temple which it is, a Pantheon, given up wholly to the 
mortal icmains of the geniuses of France. 

LES INVALIDES. 

The Hotel of the Invalides is open to the public every 
day from noon to 4 o'clock; but its museums are only 
only open Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from noon to 
4, and the tomb of Napoleon Tuesday, Thursday, Friday 
and Sunday. The best plan then is to select Tuesday o^ 



ii6 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



Thursday for a visit. This hotel, which can be seen from 
the Champ-Elysees across the extension of the bridge 
Alexander III., was built by Napoleon, or at least it was 
Napoleon who gave it its particular designation, which 
it still keeps, as an edifice serving as a home for old sol- 
diers. Plere also lie the remains of the great Emperor. 
The entrance is ornamented by a row of cannon, which 
are only fired on very important occasions; these are the 
very ones which thundered out in honor of the King oi 
Rome. There are three distinct things to be seen iT\ the 




THE INVALIDES 



hotel — the museums, properly speaking two in number; 
the church, and the tomb of the Emperor. One of these is 
the Museum of Artillery. You will find it opposite on th'^ 
right as you enter the principal door. You will see in the 
gallery of the Collection of Suits of Armor some belong- 
ing to royal personages, such as Henry II., Charles IX., 
Henry IV., Louis XIV. and the Duke of Bourgogne. 
These suits of armor are arranged in chronological order, 
while opposite them are the helmets, the shields and the 
trappings of the horses. Then in the gallery on the right 



HOW 10 SEE PARIS ALONE II7 

will be found pieces of artillery dating from the origin 
of that weapon, and below each a card showing the soun;c 
of the piece. On the ground floor there is an Oriental hall, 
contaming a collection of firearms, dating from the in- 
vention of gunpowder. In the Cour de la Victoire is to he 
seen as you go out a Russian cannon taken at Sebastopol; 
the old pieces there come from some galleons which were 
sunk in 1701. The Museum of the Army is opposite the 
Museum of Artillery, and is of recent creation. There '.s 
hardly anything in it except some souvenirs of Turenne 
and of the first Republic. When you are in the large, 
square court, notice the military paintings which cover its 
walls. The tomb of the Emperor is closed at 4 o'clock 
exactly; in order to visit it go out of the large court by 
which you entered, turn to the left and behind the batteries 
of cannon which line the ditch you will find a veteran who 
will show you the way. The tomb comprises a circular 
platform, from which yon can look down on the sar- 
cophagus. The pavement is in mosaic and above are writ- 
ten the names of battlefields: Rivoli, Marengo, lena, Wa- 
gram, Austerlitz. All around the tomb you see the twelve 
figures symbolical of the twelve victories of the Emperor; 
there also are arranged trophies made of flags taken from 
the enemy. In coming out from the tomb you can take 
a look at the Church of the Invalides and go up into the 
dome. 

IxNSTITUT. 

The Institute, or Place of Reunion of the Immortals, is 
found at the end of the Bridge of the Arts, which unites 
it to the old Louvre. The most interesting thing is to hv 
present at a session. This monument contains several 
museums, very interesting, particularly to those fond of 
numismatics. 

HOTEL DE VILLE. 

In order to visit I'Hotel de Ville it is necessary to be 
provided with a special card, which is furnished by the 
secretary of I'Hotel de Ville itself. This must be asked 
for the (lay before. Provided with this card you can pre 
sent yourself about 2 in the afternoon, the hour noted o:i 
the card, under the gate on the left, where a keeper will 
accompany you (gratuity). He will take you first into' a 
large gallery, where are found two groups of marble that 
are very attractive; then he will take you up into the Hall 
des Fetes. Here was given the famous ball offered by the 



Il8 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

City of Paris to the Russian oi-ficers on the occasion of 
their visit to the cit3^ The ceilings here were decorated 
by artists of the greatest talent, and the hall is a marvel of 
richness and luxury. It is 150 feet long by 40 feet wide; 
the ceiling represents Music and Dancing as seen down 
through the ages; Paris inviting the universe to its fes- 
tivities; flowers, perfumes, and in the vaulted sides of the 
ceiling you will see represented the old provinces of France, 
with their names written under them. Thence you will 
go into the large dining hall and into the Salon Lobau, 
on the side toward the quay. You will finish your visit by 
the South Salon, after having taken a look at the grand 
staircase of honor, which generally cannot be visited. 

CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES. 

In this hall, as in the Senate, the most interesting thing 
is to be present at a session; there is a public gallery, but 
it is necessary to get in so very early and there is so little 
room that it is better to invoke the services of your Consul 
or your Ambassador to get a card of entry. Besides the 
large hall where the deputies meet, you can, by applying 
to the keeper, visit the inner halls, of which the most re- 
markable is the Salon de la Paix. 

SENATE CHAMBER. 

The same observations apply to the Senate. If that body 
is not in session you will easily obtain permission to visit 
the large Salon. The Hall of the Pas-Perdus is the best 
known; you will be permitted to take a look at the library 
and your visit will end in the room on the ground floor 
which was occupied by Marie de Medicis. 

THE PALACE OF JUSTICE. 

In visiting the Palais de Justice one would do well to 
take in at the same time the Conciergerie and the Sainte- 
Chapelle. The Palais de Justice is open every day, and one 
can go into the room when the court is in session. The 
most interesting room is that of the Pas-Perdus. The 
criminal branch of the Court of Cassation, where, all the 
courts being united, the Dreyfus case was revised, is the 
handsomest one in the palace. On the side opposite the 
Court of Cassation are the Civil Court Rooms, which ex- 
tend up to the third story; if you happen to know some 
lawyer, that is the best way to visit the palace. In the in- 
terior of the palace the Sainte-Chapelle is located. It can 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALUNE I IQ 

be seen eveij' day, except Monday and festival days, from 
II tt) 4. Il is here that the Messe Rouge is celebrated 
every year. The Sainte-Chapelle is really composed of two 
chapels, built one upon the other; the upper communicates 
directly with the court. The interior arrangement of this 
palace is very complicated. I would suggest to a-sk a 
keeper to point out the Sainte-Chapelle, and in front of the 
door of it you will find a man whose duty it is to show it. 
He will expect a gratuity. It remains to speak of the 
Conciergerie; this can only be visited by a card of entry, 
which is to be had at the Prefecture of Police; the best 
way is to write a letter, inclosing a postage stamp for 
reply, and asking the Director of Prisons for permission 
to enter, as follows. 
Monsieur Ic Directeur: 

Je vous serais tres oblige de vouloir bien me faire par- 
venir une carte me pcrmettant de visiter avec X.... (per- 
sonnes;, la partie historique de la Conciergerie. 

The "Conciergerie is made up of two parts absolutely 
distinct. The historical part is wholly different from that 
one to which visitors are not admitted, and where pris- 
oners of distinction are confined. Provided with your 
card of entry, you have only to present yourself before 
the massive gate on the quay almost on the corner of the 
Boulevard du Palais. A keeper will open for you; he will 
have you cross the small court, and you will find yourself 
in the large waiting room; there you will be shown the cell 
which was recently occupied by Deroulede and Marcel 
tiabert; it is below the level of the ground, feebly lighted 
during the day time and at night provided with a small 
jet of gas. which hardly permits the prisoners to read 
and which allows their keepers to watch them closely 
through the small opening in the door. You will be shown 
the cell where were confined Pierre Bonaparte at the time 
of the death of Victor Noir and the young prince. Duke of 
Orleans, at the time of the famous Gamelle. The cells 
formerly occupied by Danton, Camille Desmoulins, Saint- 
Just, Hebert and General Hoche have been torn down, but 
the cell where the unfortunate Marie Antoinette was con- 
fined is still to be seen. It communicates to-day with the 
cell of Robespierre, which itself gives access to the Hall' 
of the Girondins. This hall, as well as the cell of the mar- 
tyr Queen has been turned into the chapel. It was the 
Duke Decazes who, as Minister of Louis XVIII., ordered 
the conversion of this cell of Marie Antionette. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 121 

STOCK EXCHANGE. 

The Stock Echange (La Bourse), a structure of hand- 
some external appearance, does not keep good its promise 
as far as concerns its interior. The only time when it is 
worth seeing is from noon to 3 o'clock, when the sales 
are in progress. In the center you see a part which is 
reserved for the use of the brokers and which the public 
cannot enter. Elsewhere in the building admission is free. 

ELYSEE. 

There is one more large monument which has not been 
mentioned, the Palace of the Elysee, the abode of the 
President of the Republic. But in order to visit this a spe- 
cial authority, very difticult to procure, is needed, and 
it is only during the season of the balls that those luxuri- 
ous salons can be visited; this can be done if one is invited, 
an invitation being very easily procured— simply by ask- 
ing for it. 

LIBRARIES. 

Paris contains a great number of libraries of various 
sorts, contributing in one way or anolhcr to education; 
there is, however, one library, the Bibliotheque Nationale, 
which is deserving of especial mention. It is situated in 
the Rue Richelieu, opposite the square Louvois; in order 
to go in it is necessary to be provided with a card of 
entry, either temporary or permanent, which is furnished 
upon a written demand addressed to the Secretary of the 
Bibliotheque Nationale. This card, however, only gives 
access to the working room and to the department of 
printed volumes; in order to have access to the manu- 
scripts especial permission is required. The Bibliotheque 
Nationale contains everything which has been printed 
in France and even in foreign countries. Besides this 
library you have the Bibliotheque Mazarine in the Institute 
and the Bibliotheque Sainte-Genevieve, Place du Pan- 
theon. It only remains to mention two special libraries, 
one of the Theatre Francais and the other of the Opera, 
both very rich in volumes and manuscripts pertaining to 
the stage. Besides the monuments of Paris properly con- 
sidered, there are a certain number of curiosities which, 
without being public edifices, are yet very interesting; as, 
for instance, the Observatory, the Gobelins, the Morgue, 
the Catacombs, the Sewers, les HaU.es and the Asylums 
for the Insane. 



122 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

OBSERVATORY. 

L'Observatoire can be seen the first Saturday of each 
month; it is necessary to have permission, which can be 
obtained by a written request, inclosing a postage stamp, 
addressed to the Director of the Observatory. It is neces- 
sary to be at the main door at 2 o'clock precisely; you will 
be permitted to visit the astronomical museum, and you 
can look through the large telescopes at the celestial 
phenomena. 

GOBELINS. 

The factory of the Gobelins contains among other things 
a museum of tapestr}', which can be seen on Wednesdays 
and Saturdays from i to 3. The Gobelins is a National 
factory where carpels of great value are made. They are 
generally reproductions of pictures. In the process of 
manufacture they will show you different looms, and you 
can see them at work, while in the museum you can admire 
a collection of such products as you have just seen in 
process of manufacture, and which go back for hundreds 
of years. 

THE MORGUE. 

The Morgue is a place where there are always a great 
many inquisitive people. Is it the attraction of death? In 
any case this establishment was not built to satisfy idle 
curiosity, but to serve a public want. Here are kept the 
bodies of persons found in the public streets or elsewhere 
whose domicile is not known or whose identity cannot 
be established. Kept in a refrigerating apparatus which 
arrests decomposition and which preserves the integrity 
of the features, the bodies remain sometimes for weeks in 
expectation that some relative or friend or 'some other 
person may recognize or claim them. The Morgue is 
open for the public all day long. 

CATACOMBS. 

The Catacombs are a vast field where you can see noth- 
ing but skulls and skeletons; in order to visit them it is 
necessary to write, inclosing a postage stamp, to the Di- 
rector des Travaux, at the Hotel de Ville. Visits are per- 
mitted the first and third Saturday of each month; one 
should apply at 2 o'clock Place Denfert Rochereau, and 
provide oneself at the door with a candle, which costs 10 
cents, for this place is underground. Formerly there were 
quarries here. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 123 

SEWERS. 

To visit the sewers (les Egouts) it is necessary to send 
a written request, with a postage stamp, to the Prefect of 
the Seine, mentioning the number of persons; the place 
and the hour of the visit will be specified on the card 
Thanks to a small railway you can pass through some o 
the large sewers which exist underneath Paris. In case of 
bad weather, the trip does not come of?. 

HALLES. 

The market (Kalles), if one does not object to early ris- 
ing is a very interesthig place in Paris. The arrival of the 
supplies for the city at the market (Halles centra es) be- 
gins about 3 o'clock in the morning and ends only when 
the fish are sold of? by auction, about 6 o'clock. 

A great many people, after passing an evenmg, go to 
some small restaurant in vogue near the market and take 
a small repast while waiting the arrival of that enormous 
traffic which makes the circulation of carriages miposs.ble 
before 7 o'clock in the morning. There is also a small 
market in each quarter of the city, but these are not to be 
compared to the grand market. 

ASYLUMS FOR THE INSANE. 
For people of lively emotions a visit to Charenton or la 
Salpetriere mav be extremely curious. It is necessary for 
that purpose to write to one of the directors of the hospital 
which you desire to visit, and provided with that authority 
to present yourself to the janitor, who will accompany you. 



r^^^^=r^ 



CHAPTER VII. 

AMUSEMENTS AND ENJOYMENTS. 



I hold that Paris, of all cities, offers most distraction to 
the mind and the eye, but the very plethora of pleasure of- 
fered makes selection difficult, especially for the stranger, 
who must be warned not to be taken in by a highfalutin' 
name or a striking poster, nor should he mistake the Am- 
bigu for the Palais Royal if inclined to see a show "that is 
to laugh," this is to save annoyance to some paterfamilias 
who, with his daughter along, happens to be beguiled 
into a place devoted to the light-skirted muse, when a 
moral spectacle was his goal. To save the traveler from 
such mistakes, which mar his pleasure, I shall proceed as 
before and call his attention in a methodical way to all 
the places of anmsement of Paris. I shall describe the 
features of each and accompany my description with such 
advice as may help the traveler to enhance the enjoyment 
of his visit, and to drink the cup of pleasure without 
bitter after-taste. 

Theatres. 

Paris has about twenty-five establishments which are 
theatres; that is, places where only plays are performed, 
but out of this array there are scarcely more than seven- 
teen or eighteen which are really considered, as peo- 
ple of standing do not frequent the theatres of the "fau- 
bourgs." 

Among the theatres which are worthy of the name, four 
take the lead, viz.: The National theatres. Two of these 
are devoted solely to musical art, while the two others 
play only comedies, dramas or tragedies. These two 
houses are the temples of the masterpieces of French 
literature. 

THE COMEDIE-FRANCAISE 
(Place du Theatre-Frangais.) 

The institution of the Comedie-Frangaise dates back to 
1680. Under Eouis XIV. the two companies of Mo'iere 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 12$ 

and of the Hotel de Bourgogne were consolidated. Hence 
the name "the House of Moliere," though the house is 
of a more recent origin than the institution, as it dates 

only from 1790. . 

The Comedie-Franqaise comprises within its repertory 
play's of the most divergent character. The classical works 
ot Moliere. Racine and CorneiUe imerchange with the 
comedies of modern Ule depicted by Sardou^ Em.le 
Augier Alexandre Dumas, Pailleron, Lavedan, Hervieu. 
This is the most Hterary theatre of Europe, and its head, 
Mr Jules Claretie, who presides at the deliberatn.ig meet- 
ings of this college of masters in the question of gwing 
access to its boards to dramatic works, has been admitted 
to be one of the Forty Immortals of the French Academy, 
the guardian of the beautiful French language, whose 
sole domain it is to judge of literary merit as sovereign 

^°But the Comedie-Frangaise is not only the temple of 
French literature and art; it is also a drawing-room or 
meeting place of the select, using the epithet in the bes 
meaning of the word The elite of French society hll. 
nightly the boxes before which Talma, Mile. Mars, Sarah 
Bernhardt, played, and while their places on the classic 
boards are taken now by others, their successors have 
nothing to envy them. _ 

Before taking you into the house of Moliere. allow 
me to give you a few practical hints. 

This theatre is always crowded. There is rarely a seat 
unoccupied when the curtain rises, and it is. therefore, 
always well to secure tickets the day before or ^^ the day 
at the booking ofhce of the theatre, in the rue Richelieu, 
where you can always reserve a seat or a box upon pay- 
ment of 2 francs additional to the price. The good seats 
cost from 8 to 12 francs. Ladies are admitted to all seats, 
but they must wear no hats in the orchestra stalls. 

If you have not booked your seats beforehand and you 
arrive only at the beginning of the play, you may secvvre 
seats, if there are any left, at the ofEce at the en ry to the 
theatre rue Richelieu, but you should particularly beware 
of sidewalk ticket sellers, who ofTer here, as well as at all 
theatres, their tickets at great premiums over the box 
office pHces. and. moreover, these tickets are frequently 
of some other date, or they may even be counterfeits. - 

In the orchestra seats and in the boxes French people 
appear in evening dress. The men wear dress suits, or 
Pr nee Albert at least, and invariably a high hat or opera 
hat (of course, in the hand); the ladies wear reception 



/^/-' 




''0 /'V;l; 



I 



M. SILVAIN 
Soci^taire de la Com^die Fran9aise. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 127 

dress, with or without hats, but the -decolletee" gown is 
not the style at the Comedie-Frangaise. 

If you have followed my advice to secure your seat in 
advance, you go m by one of the entries at the Place du 
Theatre-Frangais, and you present your ticket at the check- 
ing oflicc. where the coupon is taken and you are ushered 
io vour place. 

Opposite this checking ollice, on cither side of the lobby 
through which you pass, are the seated marble statues ol 
two French classics who have left their masterpieces to 
the world. To the lelt is Corneille, Moliere to the right 
The manuscript of the "Precieuses Ridicules" reposes at 
Moliere's feet. If you follow the lobby, which runs into 
the brilliantly lighted half circle, you f^nd the bust of Pon- 
sard and further on that of Casimir Delavigne, which 
stand opposite the busts of A. de Vigny and M. J. Chenier. 
Before ascending the double staircase, before which the 
peristyle opens, a few steps forward, just behind the main 
ticket checking office, you meet three works of the sculp- 
tor's art which are considered as masterpieces; to the right. 
Mile. Mars, in her role in -The Misanthropist;" left. Ra- 
chel as Phed.e, and at the middle. Talma. 

Now you pass the main checking office and you are 
shown to your seat. The few moments before the curtam 
ri.es arc very profitably employed in a survey of the audi- 
torium, which is so gracefully arranged. The roomy 
proscenium boxes to the- left belong to the manager, while 
those on the right are reserved for the various Ministries. 
After devoting your attention for a few seconds to the 
gracefully light chandelier, which illuminates the whole 
theatre by itself, you will be attracted by tlie work of 
Mazerolle-s brush on the ceiling, representing France pre- 
senting laurel wreaths to Moliere, Corneille and Racme. 
Three strokes resound and the curtain rises, displaying 
^uch stage setting of striking reality and exquisite taste 
as is almost a monopoly of the Comedie-Frangaise. Let 
nie now make you acquainted with some of the artists 
whom vou are about to applaud. While their names are 
universally known, you may, accidentally, not have the 
advantage of knowing one or the other, and in that case 
allow me to advise you to make haste in securing a seat 
when their names appear on the bill, as the advance sales 
will be large at the box office and you will regret to have 
missed the privilege of admiring those who have right- 
fully acquired the title of masters of the art theatrical. 
You all are familiar with one name. Coquclin Cad.t 
(Coquelin, Jr.), or familiarly known as Cadet for 




M. COQUKLIN CADET 
Societaire de la Comedie Fran9aisc 






HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 120 

short. No comedy without him, no laughing success 
where he does not show his jovial, fine-cut features. He 
has been called the pet of the Parisians, and they cer- 
tainly could not bestow their favor to better advantage. 
Without him a Moliere. comedy would be hazy and dim. 
1 1 is talents have brought him as a reward the cross of 
the Legion of Honor. 

Passing from comedy to tragedy, Mr. Mounet-Sully in- 
carnates marvellously the roles of Othello, Ruy Bias 
and the heavy dramatic parts of passion, wrath and fury, 
which need the master's touch and power. In character 
parts Sylvain claims your applause, an artist of rare talent. 
While his play is not as high-strung as Mounet's, he im- 
parts rare distinction to his characters, and if you have 
the opportunity to see him in Loui XL, you can appre- 
ciate him in a part in which he is perfection personified. 

While speaking of character pieces, we owe mention to 
cue who has always succeeded in doing marvels with the 
most ungrateful parts, Mr. Paul Mounet, brother of Mr. 
Viounet-Sully. Just a word about jovial Feraudy, who 
s incomparable in playing jolly old gentlemen, and about 
he distinguished Lcloir, as the Marquis in the "EfYrontes," 
or in "Mile, dc la Seigliere," or in Moliere's "L'Avare," 
which parts have been triumphs for the artist. We regret 
that but too rarely we have the opportunity to applaud Mr. 
Worms in his representation of heavy fathers, and Mr. Le 
Bragy, who is the very incarnation of the gentleman of 
fashion. 

Now let me introduce you to the ladies. First, Mile. 
Bartet, who has acquired the epithet, "the Divine," owing 
to her distinction, her bewitching voice and the perfection 
which she inculcates into all her roles. Mme. Worms- 
Barretta. the incarnate vision of the sweet, blond young 
girl, a poet's dream; then mirth, youth, laughter, a Dres- 
den Nippes figure. Mile. Muller, the ideal ingenue; fur- 
ther, a model of elegance. Mile. Brandes, who triumphs 
in roles of passion, vividly impersonating the jealous or 
passionate woman, always in dreams of the dressmaker's 
and milliner's art. Of course, we would not omit to in- 
troduce you to that charming artist who plays so success- 
fully the highly dramatic parts of the "woman with a 
post," Mile. M. Louise Marsy. Her success in "L'Avan- 
turiere" was well merited, and this lady's luck on the' 
turf may add zest to the acquaintance. 

After the curtain is down on the first act you have about 
ten minutes' intermission, in which you may pay a visit 
to the lobby of the public, while you will employ the 




MLLE. BARTET 
Societaire de la Comedie P'ran^aise. 




now TO SEE PARIS ALONE I3I 

intermission after the next act profitably witli a call at 
the artists' lobby, or greenroom. 

THE LOBBY OF THE PUBLIC*(i) 

From the auditorium you go to the tirst floor (balcony 
stalls and boxes), where a wide entrance, hung with red 
and gold draperies, leads to the landing of the grand 
marble staircase. You see two doors with mirrors on 
each side. One. the artists' door, is closed and guarded 
by a doorman; the other, opposite, is open and gives ac- 
cess to the public lobby. At the side of each door is a statue; 
the statue of Comedy stands at the artists' door and Trag- 
edy at the door of the public lobby. At tlve foot of the 
staircase is the little ladies' sitting room, in front of which, 
in the middle, stand the busts of Emile Augier and 
Alexandre Dumas, fils. This is only a landing, as the 
staircase divides and lands into the peristyle, from where 
you arrived. At the top of the two stairs and alongside 
of the busts in the middle are arranged the bust of Musset, 
to the right, opposite Balzac's bust; to the left and at 
the foot of the stairs are the busts of Dumas pere, Diderot 
and Ducis, to the left, and Dumas fils and Alme. de Girar- 
din to the left. 

We return to the lobby by the door opposite the artists' 
greenroom door. The first feature striking you on enter- 
ing into the grand salon is an enormous marble sculpture 
by Houdon. The master's chisel has attained perfection, 
and in this mask, full of fine satire and satirical finesse, 
everybody will recognize the overpoweringly lifelike fea- 
tures of Voltaire. This statue is flanked by two busts. 
One of them represents Voltaire at a younger epoch, the 
other Racine. At the rear of the lobby a vast white marble 

*(i) Just while this volume was under press the Come- 
die-Frangaise has become the prey of the devouring ele- 
ment of fire. The house of IMoliere, the ever welcome 
hoine of everything literary, is no more! The world at 
large — and the author in particular, who is indebted to 
the Manager for so many prdofs of good-will — have heard 
with awe of the terrible catastrophe which has demanded 
as a victim one of the youngest and prettiest women of 
the illustrious troupe. At the present we may hope, 
though, that within a short time the Comedie will have 
risen from the ashes, in a manner, as it lives in the 
memories of our youth, and we have, therefore, preferred 
to maintain this chapter, which, at least, depicts the Come- 
die as it was before the catastrophe and as it will be re- 
built. 




MLLE. BRANDES 
Societaire de la Com^die Fran9aise. 




'/U^^/J^^^^-^-^^^^^ 



HOW TO SEE TARIS ALONE 133 

chimney occupies ilie greater part of the wainscot. 
Over the chimney is carved a woman wearing the 
Phrygian cap; the middle bears a large bas-relief rep- 
resenting the crowning of Aloliere by the artists of the 
Comedie-Francaise, as it takes place every year on 
Moliere's birthday after the performance of the "Malade 
Imaginaire," every party wearing the costume of the play. 
The ceiling is also worthy of more than a cursory glance; 
it represents a woman (Comedy) illuminating the world. 

All around the hall are the busts of authors. These 
are arranged facing each other, two by two, right and 
left, in the following manner: Rotrou, Regnard, Thomas 
Corneille, Destouches, Crebillon, Piron, Nivelle de la 
Chaussee, Riviere, du Freny. On the side opposite the 
door, through which you entered, a long lobby stretches. 
At the end we see a large work in marble by J. Clesinger, 
representing Georges Sand, and this corridor contains, 
furthermore, the busts of Carton d'Ancourt, Le Sage, J. 
B. Rousseau, Marivaux, Sedaine, du Belloy, Beaumar- 
chais. Scribe, Sandeau. 

The artists' lobby, the greenroom, is not public, and 
the doorman will only open it for the bearers of a pass 
from the Manager, or for such persons as one of the artists 
present has invited to call. 

In winter this greenroom is a veritable salon. On Tues- 
days and Thursdays in particular, these being subscription 
days, this greenroom is the rendezvous of all notabilities 
of Paris. 

You pass at first into a long gallery lined all along 
with busts and paintings; many pictures represent some 
scene from the repertory of the Comedie. Two doors 
face each other at the middle of the gallery; the door to 
the right leads to the stairs for the dressing-rooms of the 
artists, the other to the stage. At the end the gallery 
breaks to the right and leads to the greenroom proper, 
while passing through the little parody lobby, a curiosity 
itself. Near the door to the grand lobby another outlet 
leads on the right to the Administration landing, where 
we find a superb portrait of Rachel by Gerome, flanked by 
busts of Quinault and La Fontaine. 

The walls of the grand lobby are entirely covered with 
large paintings, portraits of members (societaires) since a 
long series of years. In the right corner is a very curious 
picture, in which all artists are depicted in theatrical cos- 
tume. In the centre thrones Mile. Mars, and the narrie 
of every artist in the canvas is inscribed on the frame. At 
the side of this canvas, between the busts of Samson and 




MLLE. YAHNE 
OJeon. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 135 

Provost, is the statue of Didier Scveste, of the Comedie- 
Franqaise, who was mortally wounded at Buzenval on 
January 19th, 1871 

Opposite the entrance door is a table with a show-case 
containing the Comedie's relics, as well as two books (form- 
erly the property of Miss Mars and Miss Rachel), some 
crowns, medallions and medals, the whole of a great value. 

THE ODEON (PLACE DE L'ODEON). 

In this instance I shall not reiterate the practical hints 
given on the head of the Comedie-Frangaise. It is al- 
ways well to secure theatre seats in advance. In the 
National theatres (those supported by the Government) 
dress-suits or Prince Alberts are required, and ladies are 
not allowed to wear hats in the orchestra seats. 

The Odeon is the second Theatre-Frangais. Its reper- 
tory is almost the same as at the Comedie-Frangaise, with 
some preponderance of the classics. For the artists the 
Odeon is generally the antechamber and stepping-stone 
to the Comedie-Frangaise, but at times this theatre en- 
gages at princely yearly salaries artists of great renown. 
Thus Mile. Yahne has given this year performances which 
attracted "tout Paris." Its boards were formerly the 
scene of triumph of that incomparable artist, Rejanc, who 
has gained the admiration of the world at large. t(i) 

The Lyrical National Tlieatres. 

THE OPERA (PLACE DE L'OPERA). 

As the Theatre-Frangais is the first dramatic theatre 
of the world, the Opera bears rightfully the rank of the 
first musical stage. Its public consists in the main of 
subscribers, and they affect a style of arriving by the 
middle of the performance and quitting before the fall of 
the curtain. The stranger will certainly not follow their 
example, because even if he should not be musical, he 
would never be sorry for an evening passed among the 
gorgeous setting, the finest singers of the universe and 
the elegant crowd of the audience. 

Although there may be a chance to find seats when the 
curtain rises, you should take no chances and engage 
seats two or three days in advance at the box office, Place 
de rOpera, corner of Rue Auber. 



fUJ Provisionally the Comedie-Frangaise has been 
transferred to the Odeon. 




y 






MLLE. ACKTE 
Opera 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



137 



Prices of seats (in francs): 

Advance. Box 

Pit (parterre) 7 

Orchestra scats 16 14 

Amphitheatre seats 16 15 

Proscenium boxes, seats 17 15 

Side boxes, seats 16 14 

First balcony, side boxes, seats.. 19 17 

First balcony, front boxes, seats. . 19 17 

First balcony, side boxes, seats.. 17 15 

Second balcony, proscenium 16 14 

Second balcony, front boxes, seats 16 14 

Second balcony, side boxes, seats 12 lO 

Third balcony, proscenium 7 5 

Third balcony, front boxes, seats 10 S 

Third balcony, side boxes, seats. . 7 5 

Fourth balcony, proscenium.... 3 2 

Fourth balc'ny, amphitheatre seats 3 2 

fourth balcony, front boxes, seats 5 3 



Office. 
7 




LOBBY OF THE OPERA 



The most desirable places for a visit to the Opera in 
company of a lady are the amphitheatre seats. Gentle- 
men by themselves prefer the orchestra and they like to 
avoid the neighborhood of the brass instruments and 
their din and noise. There are also stage-boxes, from 
which you can see the whole stage — business of scenery 
setting and shifting after the fall of the curtain. 




MLLE. CLEO DE MERODE 
de rOp^ra. 




now TO SEE TARIS ALONE I 39 

Assuming that you have secured your seats in advance, 
we shall now enter this palace of marvels known as the 
Opera. Oi course you wear your dress suit, and ladies 
are in evening dress (no hat). 

The Opera was built by Architect Gamier; it was fin- 
ished ill 1S74. 

Supposing that you arrive in a cab, your conveyance 
will stop on the Place de I'Opera at the foot of the steps 
leading to the peristyle. 

If you arrived in a private turnout you stop at the 
rear entrance on Rue Meyerbeer. Be very precise in your 
orders to the coachman, when and where to be at hand 
for the return trip, or else you would risk to have a long 
wait in the crowd of private carriages. 

After passing through one of the double glass doors 
leading into the theatre we are in front of the monu- 
mental staircase, at each side of which is a control. This 
grand staircase, which is considered a marvel, leads us 
directly to the orchestra, and amphitheatre stalls form a 
vast circular gallery which runs all around the orchestra, 
amphitheatre and pit. 

Before entering the gallery leading to your seat, 
turn around for a moment and gaze at these thirty marble 
columns which reach from the first floor to the third and 
support the ceiling with its fresco decorations by Pils. 
The decorations represent the Gods of Olympus, Apollo 
on his chariot, the Edification of the Opera and the 
Triumph of Harmony. 

On the upper floor, where the two marble staircases 
meet after dividing from the orchestra on the grand stair- 
case, we find the first balcony boxes, which are on a level 
with the grand lobby and which you can see just in front 
at the top of the staircase. 

And now you hand your coupon to one of the numerous 
door openers (women) in the circular lobby, and she will 
show you to the vestiary, where you leave your cloak and 
receive a small numbered card to serve as your check 
when leaving (tip 15 to 20 sous). After being seated you 
can admire at ease the grandeur and beauty of the audi- 
torium. The ceiling, by Lenepven, representing the hours 
of the day and night, always hnds the strongest admira- 
tion, which is shared by the grand chandelier which illu- 
minates this vast space. 

If you f^nd yourself in company of a subscriber (who 
alone is entitled to access to the stage), you may accom- 
panv him to the dancers' lobby or greenroom, which is 
just' behind the stage off the auditorium. There, be- 





M.LLE. CHARLOTTE WYNS 
Opera Comique. 




HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I4I 

sides the bevy of all-enchanting dancers, among whom 
Miles. Zambelli and Cleo de Merode may be mentioned as 
features, you will have occasion to admire the enormous 
mirror at the rear; it is ten metres high. Furthermore, 
the four panels by Boulanger, representing the celebrities 
of the dance, claim your attention. As we are on the 
stage, let me name you the principal artists: Messrs. 
Affre. Auguez, Alvarez, Renaud, and the ladies Breval, 
Ackte, Lucas. 

When you leave the opera take the grand staircase to 
the control, instead of going out by the Place de I'Opera, 
descend the few steps opposite the exit to the place, and 
you will be under the staircase, in the subscribers' pavi- 
lion, in front of a basin where rises Marcello's bronze 
Pythoness. A little further on you find Delaplanche's 
marble sculpture, the Incarnation of Music. 

Making your exit on the Rue Meyerbeer, you find the 
carnages waiting. 

THE OPERA-COMIQUE. 

This beautiful theatre of the Place Boi'eldieu, which was 
finished during the year 1898, and inaugurated on the 7th 
of December of that year, occupies exactly the place of 
the old building, which was destroyed by the terrible 
catastrophe, the memory of which is ineffaceable. But the 
house is much changed now. Gold and marble adorn 
the vast lobbies, and the numerous staircases and wide 
peristyles offer safety against the repetition of the mis- 
fortune which befell the old house. 

Before entering, let me repeat my recommendation to 
secure your seats in advance, here as everywhere, princi- 
pally during exhibition times. At the box office in the 
Rue Mari\aux >ou will find the advance sale office. Thurs- 
days and Saturdays dress suits for men and evening dress 
lor ladies (not decolletee) are prescribed. Our seats are 
engaged and we enter from the Place Boieldieu. Just 
before you, under a vast peristyle, opens the grand stair- 
case which ascends behind the two checking offices. To 
ihe right and left are two large stairs leading to the first 
balcony boxes. The few steps descending at each side of 
the central staircase lead to a vv'ide open space, which lets 
out on the one side into the Rue Marivaux and on the 
other side into the Rue Favart. We ascend the centra! 
staircase and observe the six beautiful columns which 
carry the building. This staircase takes us to the orches- 
tra. If we take the stairs to the right or left, we find 




M. LUCIEN FUGERE 
Op6ra Comique. 



(^^^fi^^ 



4;^«^^ 




HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 143 

at the foot ol the fornici a statue representing the tragic 
genius which at times pervades the Opera-Comique, and 
at the foot of the other stairs we see a Uiughing and 
Hght-skirted woman leadmg a wolf, a symbol of the gaiety 
with which Gallic art is imbued. 

The beautiful work in wrought iron and gold of the 
balusters and the pillars in rose, white and gray marble 
deserves our attention. The great entrance to the orches- 
tra, opposite the grand staircase, is flanked by two of 
these columns; right and left are two well managed ves- 
tiaries. 

We descend one of the two small stairs provided to the 
right and left, and we reach the peristyle of the first 
floor. We arrive at the hall, which precedes the lobby, 
into which the two stairs from the ground floor land. The 
stairs to the right lead to a vestibule decorated with works 
of Flameng's brush. On one side we see Athens and its 
Acropolis as a background for the antique chorus, the 
sacred origin of our songs, which, from sacred chants, be- 
came worldly. The other side is devoted to modern 
choreography. On a background of mountains, on the 
shore of an Alpine lake, we see the light platform where 
our ballet dances. The left hand staircase landing is 
decorated with paintings by Merson. He depicts in a 
purely rural scene the harmonies of nature gently touch- 
ing with light breath a nymph asleep, whom the ever- 
watchful Faun guards with eager eye. In another more 
real landscape the artist shows us a pretty mediaeval scene, 
a chorus of that period singing some ancient lay while 
dancing around a fountain. 

Tlie gallery, which serves as vestibule for the lobby, is 
decorated by the allegorical representations of Comedy, 
Song. Dance and Music. We glance admiringly at the 
two gilt balconies which issue on this vestibule; we look 
for a moment at the mosaics and the marble portico, and 
we enter the lobby. 

Two doors admit you, and opposite we see at once the 
three window-doors opening on an immense stone bal- 
cony, which we saw at the facade of the house. Place Boiel- 
dieu. Standing at one of these window-doors, we look up 
to the ceiling adorned with painted allegories of all em- ^ 
blems and symbols of the niany arts concurring in bring- 
ing out to bloom the fair flower of Comic Opera. Oppo- 
site from us, over the three doors, a great composition by 
Maignan attracts us. Music and Poesy, in a vast horizon 
showing to the left a village scene from one of our best 
known comic operas, and on the right another scene from 




MME. JANE HADING 
Gymnase. 




HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I45 

a comic opera, but by contrast the performers are all clad 
in the silken costumes of the city. This great canvas is 
surrounded by a series of medallions representing in pro- 
rile the masters whose works have shed glory on the house: 
Scribe, Sedaine, Favart, David, Masse, Delibcs, Mr. Car- 
valho and others. Now turn to the right and you will 
certainly be charmed with the delightful decoration of the 
beautiful marble and gold carved portico leading to the 
bufYet. This panel is by Gervex. It represents a street 
in some old town, where the classic scenes of pantomime, 
with Pantalon and Manon to the left and Columbine, 
Pierrot and Harlequin to the right, perform their grace- 
ful art with consummate skill. 

Starting into the buffet, or refreshment room, as we 
may call it, we may glance at the paintings of Toudouze. 
scenes of the Middle Ages, enlivened with decorative 
motives. 

We pass again through the full length of the lobby and 
we arrive at a charming little salon finished entirely in 
white enamel. This delightful little place is adorned by 
country scenes, into which Collin has instilled that float- 
ing vagueness of harmonies in nature which inspire the 
poet's and the artist's soul. Here, as at the buffet, do not 
fail to look into the mirror to obtain a full view of the 
principal composition. You will find in the mirror the 
perspective, which the spectator cannot obtain directly on 
account of the smallness of the place. 

It would be carrying coals to Newcastle to dwell upon 
the importance of the Opera-Comique for Paris. Every- 
body knows that comic opera enjoys in Paris a position 
which no other capital yields to it in such a measure. In 
return Paris demands the acme of perfection — and gets it. 

Strangers are always desirous to enjoy these perform- 
ances, which have become almost classical by tradition, 
the care devoted to their preparation, and the excellence 
of the artists, such as Mr. Lucien Fugere, Mme. Char- 
lotte Wyns, whose portrait we present to our readers. 
These artists are but specimens of a company in which 
excellence, mastery, zeal and artistic superiority are ac- 
cepted conditions. 

Next in line after the National Theatres come the so- 
called Boulevard Theatres. We mention at the top of the 
list the two theatres which are pre-eminently frequented 
by' the beau monde, the Vaudeville and the Gymnase. 
These theatres were combined up to June, 1899. under the 
management of Messrs. Chautard and Porel, but they 
are run independently now. 



-sTsm^l 




MME. REJANE (VAUDEVILLE) 








HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 147 

THE GYxMNASE (BOULEVARD BONNE-NOU- 
VELLE. 

This was called formerly the Theatre de Madame, and 
somehow it has kept the aristocratic mien of the olden 
days. It is par excellence the theatre of the "chic" 
world. You see the people as if they had stepped out of a 
bandbox, and the same styles prevail as at the Comedie- 
Frangaise. 

The Gymnase has been the birthplace of many re- 
sounding reputations. It was the cradle of the popularity 
of a Scribe, a Dumas fils, a Sardou, a Meilhac, of Claretie, 
of Daudet. I cannot say much of the company at this 
moment, as I do not know how it will be composed, but 
I have been assured that Huguenet, who has achieved such 
brilliant triumph in "Marraine," will remain the main- 
stay of the new company, and that j\Ille. Yahne would 
come, too, from the Odeon. 

It is certain, therefore, that the ensemble will not be in- 
ferior to that which has achieved runs of plays by the 
hundred nights on the boards of the Gymnase. *(i) 

THE VAUDEVILLE (BOULEVARD DES CAPU- 

CINES. 

At the head of the Vaudeville two names attract us at 
once as a guaranty of success: First, the director's, Mr. 
Porel, with twenty years' theatrical experience and al- 
ways growing success in the alternate management of the 
Odeon, the Gymnase, and the Vaudeville for the last three 
years; and, by the side of him, that powerful artist known 
and admired in both worlds, the heroine of "Madame San^- 
Gene," "Amoureuse," "Lysistrata," Mme. Rejane, whose 
name and fame echo in every country. In her company 
we find such names as: Mmes. Cecile Caron, Avril, etc., 
and Messrs. Lerand. Numes, Gauthier. 

THE VARIETES (BOULEVARD MONTMARTRE). 

Here we leave behind us absolutely the serious character 
piece or drama. We enter upon the field of the worldly, 
the gay world of the gayest city of the world. If you 
leave prudish ideas at the door and wish to enjoy a hearty 
laugh at plays and situations that "are to laugh," even if 

*(i)The Odeon is provisionally transferred to the Gym- 
nase, as the Coniedie-Franqaise was transferred provi.s- 
ionally to the Odeon. 




MLLE. LENDER 
Vari^t6s 







HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 49 

they are slightly "yellow," you will be indebted to the 
Varietes for a pleasant evening. At this theatre the jol- 
liest, liveliest and most rollicking creations interchange 
with the sprucest, nimblest and cleverest reviews and ex- 
travaganzas, wherein the eye celebrates a carnival of kaleid- 
oscopic enjoyment, feasting on pretty faces and revealing 
costumes, as this theatre glories in the most delightful 
comediennes and the prettiest girls of Paris. Just a few 
names at haphazard: Jeanne Granier, Lucy Gerard, Mar- 
celle Lender, Lavalliere, Gallois, Emilienne d'Alen^on, 
Suzanne Derval. etc.. etc.. supported by such comics of 
old established fame as Baron, Brasseur, Lassouche, Guy, 
Prince. Emile Petit, etc., etc. 

THE PORTE SAINT-MARTIN (BOULEVARD 
SAINT-MARTIN). 

Everybody has heard the name of this theatre in the last 
two years, where Coquelin rules m both capacities of di- 
rector and actor, and where he gave to the world his im- 
morlal creation of Cyrano de Bergerac. 

This theatre has played "La Tosca" with Sarah Bern- 
hardt, then spectacular plays of Jules Verne, like "Around 
the World in Eighty Days," etc., and it devotes itself now, 
with Coquelin, Sr., at its head, almost exclusively to the 
drama, often to historical pieces, but always offering 
thrilling interest in plays of passion and loiuance, which, 
it is needless to say, are performed in a manner that is 
the pinnacle of perfection. Coquelin's son, Jean Coquelin, 
supports his father, and it happens that the son takes the 
father's part in a play quite suddenly when occasion of- 
fers, and he always proves a true chip of the old block, 
though it is no easy matter to compete successfully with 
the creator of a part on his own ground, but the case of 
Coquelin vs, Coquelin is fought on strictly meritorious 
grounds. 

THE AMBIGU. 

While on the subject of the drama, we will speak right 
now of this theatre, which, makes a specialty of it, or, 
rather, melodrama. If yoti like a good cry you will get it 
to your heart's content at this place. The Ambigu has 
cultivated the specialty of the popular drama, and it prides 
itself on the magnificence of the costumes and settings. 
Even if you only wish to enjoy a feast of color and mag 
nificence, a visit will amply pay you. 




M. COQUELIN 



C- Co 



1 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I 5' 

THE THEATRE DE LA REPUBLIQUE. 

THEATRE LYRIQUE. 

(Place de la Republique.) 
The management and the company of the lyric theatre 
of the Renaissance have transplanted themselves to this 
house, where they continue their artistic performances of 
old style comic operas with such singers as Mr. Soulacroix 
and Mile. Parentani. The excellent orchestra is under the 
baton of Mr. Jules Dambe. 

And now let us pass to the gay theatres, the true Paris- 
ian and Boulevard houses, where we can go without the 
rigors of evening dress, just as we come from a well en- 
joyed dinner ready for a good laugh for the two hours of 
the play, where the jolly mummers make you forget the 
outside world and make you a better man. as a laughmg 
man knows no harm. 

THE THEATRE DE LA RENAISSANCE. 
(Boulevard Saint-Martin.) 
This theatre is a neighbor of the Porte Saint-Martin. 
After many changes it became, up to two years ago. the 
Theatre Sarah Bernhardt; then it was called the Theatre 
Lyrique and now it is the home of operetta, under the 
direction of Lagoanere and Biana Duhamel, where such 
artists as Messrs. Smaon Max, Piccaluga. WolfY and Mmes. 
Biana Duhamel. de Ternoy. M. Dufay, etc., offer always 
a guaranty of a strong, artistic, enjoyable and even mem- 
orable performance. Mme. Biana Duhamel merits your 
special admiration. While her personal charms will cap- 
tivate the public easily, this artist needs certainly not to 
depend upon the charm of personal appearance only. Art. 
temperament and a beautiful, thoroughly well trained voice 
make a combination which is rarely equaled, but never ex- 
celled If you add to this already unconquerable array of 
strong points, brilliant costumes and that gift of the gods, 
uue Parisian chic and vivacity, it becomes almost an 
"embarras de richesse." 

THE NOUVEAUTES. 
This theatre is just amid the boulevard, and you will 
have to secure your seats always in advance. Mr Michaud 
has been very lucky for a few years in striking only 
roaring successes. His plays enjoy runs of_ 200 to 300 
performances, as -The Girl from Maxim s. which has 
been played for more than six months at the time of this 
writing. 




MME. CASSIVE 
Nouveaut^s 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 153 

The company consists of Messrs. Germain. Colombey, 
Torin, Landrin. Coquet, etc., and Mnies. Cassive, Burty, 
Cavell, iMaurel, etc.. etc. This troup gives every night 
by nine o'clock a jolly, rollicking and rather catchy per- 
formance, the plays being light, of thoroughly Parisian 
hue, and if >ou do not know what to do with yourself for 
the evening, when you are on the boulevard, follow the 
Parisians and buy two hours' worth of laughter and jollity 
at the box ofifice of the Nouveautes. 

THE BOUFFES PARISIENS. 

This is a family theatre near the boulevard, from where 
it can be seen. Its domain is comic operas, operas boufifes 
and operettas. Here such celebrated successes as "Mas- 
cotte" and "Miss Helyett" were performed, and in former 
days it was the home of Offenbach's hilarious hits. The 
company consists this year of Messrs. Jean Perier, Reg- 
nard, Brunais, Maurice Lamy, etc., and Mmes. Mariette 
Sully, Tarial-Bauge, Alice Bonheur, Leonie Laporte, Vig- 
ouroux, elc. 

FOLIES DRAMATIQUES. 
(Rue de Bondy, Place de la Republique.) 

After referring to this theatre, where the most success- 
ful operettas had their run, such as "La Fille de Madame 
Angot," "Les Cloches de Corneville" (the "Chimes of 
Normandy"), "Les 28 Jours de Clariette," and which, 
since a few months, has started upon a new life as a 
popular lyric theatre at popular prices under the manage- 
ment of Mr. Campo-Cassae, we have finished with the 
boulevard theatres proper. But there still remain four big 
theatres to be mentioned which, while not on the boule- 
vards, yet belong in the category of the great Paris 
theatres. Honor to whom honor is due. Let us mention 
a name to conjure with, a name which no stranger ig- 
nores, that of the great artist who personally manages the 

THEATRE SARAH-BERNHARDT. 
(Place du Chatelet.) 

After several years' performances at the Renaissance, 
which she had chosen, Sarah Bernhardt has planted her 
victorious standard since last year at this house, where all 
strangers within the gates of the City of Splendor, who have 
seen Sarah Bernhardt at their home, will want to see her 
at her home. Besides the new pieces which she brings out 
with a company chosen by her with the eye of an artist 




MLLE. BIANA DUHAMEL 
Directress of the Th^tre de la Renaissance. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 155 

and directress, Sarah Bernhardt will play regularly her 
repertory, and when she appears, as she did about three 
months ago, in "La Dame aux Camelias" ("Camille"), 
she revives the triumphs of old and proves, as ever, her . 
true title to the laurels of "the" tragedienne. This year 
she plays "L'Aiglon," by the celebrated author of "Cyrano 
de Bergerac" — Rostand. One of the curiosities of the 
theatre is the decoration of the auditorium in ivory and 
gold, the work of the great artist herself. 

CHATELET. 

This theatre, located opposite the former, plays a quite 
difterent line. It has been the cradle of spectacular plays, 
as "Michel StrogotT,'' "Around the World," "Poudre de 
Perlinpinpin," "Robinson Crusoe." You must not look 
there for great emotions. If you want to feast your eyes, 
or if you want to see the wonders of stage mechanism 
•'hich make the most incredible marvels an almost tangi- 
jle reality, you will be amply rewarded by a visit. It is a 
paradise for the children and a joy to their elders. The 
spectacular holds sway in this vast theatre, where you may 
take children and young girls without hesitation. The 
gigantic masses, the sumptuous stage decorations, the 
pomp of costumes and the glitter and glamour of the 
marvelous bewitch and bewilder. Mme. Marguerite 
Ugalde is the charming particular star of the Chatelet. 

GAIETE. 

This theatre is run on somewhat similar lines as the 
former, only here the spectacular is combined with oper- 
etta, and the chansonette and the topical song play a much 
more prominent part. The orchestra is first class. 

We cannot close our list of the principal theatres without 
referring to the one which, while ofif the beaten path, is one 
of the most enjoyable. 

THE PALAIS ROYAL (RUE MONTPENSIER). 

There the celebrated Dejazet played, and it is certainly 
the gayest theatre of Paris. Here we have a quickfire of 
jollity, and though the frolic may be a little "ofT color" 
at times, it will never be rude nor lack spirit. While 
Mrs. Grundy gets more than a dig in the ribs, everything 
is done with so much drollery by artists like Messrs. 
Raimond, Boisselot, Lanny and Mmes. Theirel, Legrand, 
that you cannot reproach yourself. You will laugh and for- 
give, as a laughing man can't be angry. 






MME. MARGUERITE UGALDE 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 157 

Besides the principal theatres there are the so-called 
little theatres which are nearly always crowded. There 
30U may also enjoy a good laugh, but the plays are often 
mure than "off color." For instance, the Dejazet, Boule- 
vaid du Temple, plays the gross farces, comedies of error, 
etc., while 

CLUNY (SQUARE DE CLUNY). 

which played the famous piece, which has been around 
the world, "Trois Femmes Pour un Alari," is the pet 
iheatre of the students, who are not readily shocked. 
Moreover, Paris has any quantity of small halls and thea- 
tres in the various quarters, and space does not allow me 
to mention them here. I shall only mention two little 
halls, because they are particularly freciuented by the select 
public. 

ATHExNEE-COMIQUE. 

This is a very neat theatre, in the Rue Boudreau, where 
the director brings out comedies and vaudevilles written 
mostly by young authors, whom he pilots to success. This 
little house is but a hundred yards from the Opera. 

THEATRE-ANTOINE. 

This IS strictly devoted to young authors and to the 
materialistic school. The director, Antoine, who is him- 
self an actor, has earned an enviable reptitation by the 
success of his special method and his acting. 

In conclusion I must not omit to mention the Theatre 
d'Application (18 Rue Saint-Lazare). where classical per- 
formances are given by the pupils of the Conservatory. 
Besides lectures are delivered by foremost men of letters 
on dramatic issues, and these lectures are illustrated by 
great Paris artists, who recite or play fragments of the 
plays lectured upon. Moreover, this theatre arranges fre- 
quent exhibits in the galleries. 



Concerts. 

What has been said of theatres is valid of concerts as 
well. Paris has concerts in plenty, but there are three reg- 
ular concerts which count as regular occurrences with the 
"•reat musical public of Paris. 



158 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

THE CONCERTS OF THE CONSERVATORY 

Take place every Sunday from November to April in the 
auditorium of the Conservatory. Under the direction oi 
the orchestra leader, Taffanel, classical music is executed 
in a perfect manner, Beethoven's symphonic immortal 
creations taking a favorite rank with both artists and pub- 
lic. On the evening of Good Friday a sacred concert is 
given, which is strongly frequented. The public at these 
concerts consist almost exclusively of subscribers, but seats 
can be had before the concert (at 1.30 p. m.) at the janitor's 
of the Conservatory, 2 Rue du Conservatoire. 

CONCERTS COLONNE. 

They bear this name after the orchestra leader and 
director. 

These concerts take place from October to April 
inclusive: 

1. At the Theatre du Chatelet, on Sundays from 2 to 5 
p. m. Symphony music, soloist and chorus. Ordinary 
prices of seats vary from 10 francs to i franc. 

2. At the Nouveau-Theatre, 15 Rue Blanche, on Thurs- 
days, from 3 to 5 p. m. Music of smaller scope than per- 
formed at the Chatelet. The programme is divided into 
two parts, old and new music. Price of seats from 6 francs 
to I franc. 

The Colonne concerts ofifer a truly royal artistic treat to 
music lovers on account of their perfection of execution 
and their variety of programme. 

CONCERTS LAMOUREUX. 

The Societe des Concerts Lamoureux gives every Sun- 
day at 2.30 p. m. and often Thursdays at 4 p. m., from Oc- 
tober to May, a concert, in wkich the classics are rendered 
in a thoroughly perfect manner. These concerts take place 
at the Theatre de la Republique. Since the death of Mr. 
Lamoureux his son-in-law, Mr. Chevillard, has assurned 
the baton of this world-renowned orchestra. The price of 
tickets ranges from 8 francs to 2 francs. 

THE AUDITIONS MUSICALES. 

During the Exposition the Societe des Concerts will be 
the official orchestra, under the leadership of Mr. Tafifanel 
and a series of musical programmes will be performed, 
in which the most striking epochs of French music will be 
executed. The programme will also contain works which 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I 59 

are hitherto unpublished, and it is intended to give an idea 
oi the general history of French national music from its 

origin to date. ■,,11 

The French and foreign musical societies will also he 

heard. .,, 

Finally national and international prize competitions will 

be arranged between singing societies and string and brass 



The Circuses. 

These are less in number than theatres; there are four 
only one is not even quite ready. The one being bu.lt will 
be rather on the plan of a theatre auditorium than a 
circus. 

THE CIRQUE D'HIVER (Winter Circus). 
Place des Filles du Calvaire. 
This is the oldest circus of Paris, and it has maintained 
the old traditions of the sawdust ring, clowns who make 
you laugh, horses trained in liberty, the short-skirted bare- 
back rider, the hoops, the spangles, the trapeze performers, 
tumblers and all the paraphernalia to which we were ac- 
customed in our youth, only the peanuts and red lemonade 
are lacking The performances close with an equestrian 
pantomime, battle-scenes, etc. Lion-tamers, athletes, 
male and female, display themselves at intervals. The cir- 
cus is ordinarily open from November to May. 

THE CIRQUE PALACE. 

At the meet or round point of the Champs-Elysees, on 
the site of the old Cirque d'Ete. This circus opens June 1st 
and will remain open during the whole of the year. Its 
predecessor used to be closed during the Winter months. 

It will make a specialty of a mixed spectacle, half circus. 
half theatre. Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, male and female 
riders will represent the circus part, and highly spectacular 
ballets will cater to the lovers of the terpsichorean art. A 
tank of 100 square metres is provided for swimming and 
diving performances. 

NOUVEAU-CIRQUE. 
This is the acme of elegance, the meeting place of the 
world of fashion. For these ultra-fashionable people who 
meet at the races, on f\rst nights at the theatres, and wher- 



l60 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

ever fashion congregates, there is one day of meeting one 
another which they would not miss for anything, the Sat- 
urday at the Nouveau-Cirque. 

This circus gives most performances. During the Expo- 
sition two performances take place daily, a matinee at 2.30 
p. m., and an evening show at 8.30 p. m. 

Of course, the world of Parisian high rollers visit in the 
evening. They have made the light promenade-walk 
their stamping ground, while the seats at the base of the 
ring are reserved for the people who come to be distracted 
by the show proper. Besides the equestrian and other at- 
tractions which make up the first part of the programme, 
which changes constantly, the second part consists of a 
pantomime in two or three tableaux, and it is certainly a 
most curious spectacle to see this ring, where a few mo- 
ments ago horses cavorted and galloped, converted into 
an enormous tank, in which skifYs and male and female 
swimmers cut the water in motley array and crowd. 

THE CIRQUE MEDRANO. 

On the outer boulevards we have a circus which ir 
scarcely a year old in Paris, but which has a good promise: 
of success. Mr. Medrano, who directs this circus, was the 
public's favorite at the Nouveau-Cirque some years ago 
and he has remained a favorite in his new undertaking. 

Music Halls. 

Paris has many places which are frequented both by 
everybody out for a lark or entertainment. The demi- 
monde is represented in strong array, and so these places 
are certainly no family resorts; but the stranger generally 
jnakes their acquaintance soon and likes to improve the 
acquaintance. 

THE FOLIES-BERGERE {32 Rue Richer). 

The Folies-Bergere is the establishment best known by 
the stranger. To him it is the incarnation of Paris gay 
life, and he does not tarry long before he studies its phases. 
The public is very mixed, though elegant. Tlie prome- 
nade is frequented just as much as the auditorium, and it 
offers as much attraction to the many as the fine ballets 
on the stage. After dinner, it is quite the custom to smoke 
your cigar in the promenade of the Folies-Bergere. The 
uniform price of admission of 2 francs is certainly extreme- 
Iv moderate. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE l6l 

OLYMPIA (24 Boulevard des Capucines). 

Under the management of the Isola Brothers, who have 
rcuiodelled this elegant music hall entirely. Here the pub- 
lic is more unalloyed. The frail sisterhood comes here 
ony three times a week. The programme is brilliant; be- 
sides the features of a high-grade variety performance there 
are always grand ballets. Engagements for 1900: Little 
Tich, the Craigs, Scb.aeter, Emilienne d'AIengon, Suzanne 
Derval, etc.. etc. 

CASINO DE PARIS. 

The Casino de Pans has made an enormous success with- 
in the last years with the male public. This is due to the 
I)retty faces which smile everywhere in the immense hall. 
It you go there by about 10 p. m.. you will find the 500 
tables occupied by a crowd of people taking refreshments 
and taking in the attractions of the stage and feasting their 
eyes on the most talked of beauties of Paris in the audience. 

The entrances to the Casino de Paris are at the corner of 
Rue Blanche and Rue Clichy. 

THE JARDIN DE PARIS (Champs-Elysees, left side). 

The Jardin de Paris is a marvel of gaiety, freshness and 
taste, exquisitely set of¥ by the large rich-foliaged trees. 
It is admirably located just alongside the monumental door 
of the Exposition at the entrance of the Champs-Elysees 
This is the favorite place of the Parisian world of high rol 
lers, where you may see every night the most noted au'J 
notorious recruits in the army of Cythera. Tlie concerts 
and the various attractions spread over the garden and 
the vast crypt are the delight of the Tout-Paris, which likes 
to enjoy itself, and of the strangers who visit the City of 
Pleasure when on pleasure bent. 

THE PALAIS DE GLACE (Ice Palace). 
Champs-Elysees, left side. 

Beautiful rink for skating on real ice. Closed during the 
Summer. Will reopen on September ist next. 

Exhibitions are given here by professional male and fe- 
male skaters, all of first rank. 

THE MOULIN ROUGE. 

This is the olace to dance or gaze at the whirl of the 
quadrilles which are danced in a manner that defies de- 
scription. The old adage, "Mnst be seen to he appreci- 



l62 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

ated," holds good here more than ever. Of course, you 
who enter here leave all your prudish scruples behind, as 
these night festivals are rather festive; they are things of 
beauty, but not a joy forever — very gay, but terribly mixed. 



Cafes- Concerts. 

These are establishments where you take refreshments, 
and where you can smoke in the auditorium. 

PARISIANA {2"] Boulevard Poissonniere.) 

Risky songs, little scenes, vaudevilles, reviews hold the 
boards, a little of everything. The names of the authors of 
these extravaganzas are always sure of the success of gaiety 
and laughter which the Parisian loves. At present Courte- 
line, Tristan Bernard, P.-L. Flers hold the boards with 
their extravaganza, Qut Complote? which is a worthy suc- 
cessor as a mirthmaker of their former successes in Ohe 
Venus! A nous les femnies! The gaiety of these plays 
finds a fine foil in the delightful hall, where we can admire 
night by night such charmers as Mme. Mealy, Anna Tlii- 
bault, Therese d'Orgena. Marville, Paquerette, etc., and 
many others too numerous to mention. 

In Summer the following play with equal measure of 
success: : 

LES AMBASSADEURS (Champs-Elysees, right side). 

This is a restaurant where first-class service and cuisine 
prevail. There is an open-air concert in Summer, open in 
May and closing in September. Matinees on Thursdays 
and Sundays. At night the concert is crowded and the 
attractions are great: Yvette Guilbert, Gabrielle Sylvane, 
Laurence Deschamps, Raiter, Lejal, the Fleury Reyband, 
Trio La Serenada, Brothers Artois, etc. 

Just alongside is the 

ALCAZAR D'ETE (Champs-Elysees, right side). 

Is a Summer garden and popular restaurant, where at the 
evening performances and Sunday matinees Polin, Maurel, 
la belle Otero, Varly, the Raphael Colombel, the Toulouse 
Troubadours, etc., delight their audiences. 

Next we mention the 



HOW TO SEE I'ARIS ALONE 163 



DIVAN JAPONAIS (75 Rue des Martyrs). 

(Telephone 5^3-/4), where the poet Gaston Haberkorn re- 
cites personally his chansons sensuelles. Here Yvette 
Guilbert, Therese d'Orgeval and other artists, who are cel- 
ebrated to-day, made their first appearances. The Divan 
japonais opens every evening, with a matinee on every 
Sunday, at 2 p. m. 



TflE SCALA (13 Boulevard de Strasbourg). 

Here the programme changes constantly, one novelty 
rushes the other, and the reviews and extravaganzas 
played are always amusing and a feast to the eye. 



Montmartre. 



It has been the fashion of Paris by night and the people 
who like a gay life to meander from the beaten path of 
the boulevards after the theatre to Montmartre, where 
often night is turned into day until the wee sma' hours of 
the morning This part of Paris, which lives at night, is 
called for short the Butte (the hillj. Here we find almost 
nothing but miniature theatres, tiny stages, where young 
authors have their plays performed or recite their own 
verse. These youngsters have but slight fear of censure. 
and this ought to give you a hint that the emanations of 
their unbridled brain are rather loose, and that you should 
leave your scruples at home, if you want to enjoy this at- 
mosphere without blush or shock. The theatres are in- 
terspersed with small restaurants, where suppers are served 
up to the hours when sedate people rise. 

At the head of these little bonbon-boes, with the sweet- 
ness left out, we will mention 



THE TRETEAU DE TABARIN (58 Rue Pigalle). 

Every night at 9.30. The most select and amusing board 
of Montmartre. Here Fursy and the best mirthmakers of 
the Butte sing their creations. 

''Then we have the CARILLON, which possesses an ex- 
cellent olio of comics, headed by the director, Millanvoye. 

We may still mention the 



164 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

GRAND GUIGNOL (Rue Ballu), 

where only ultra-realistic pieces are played; further the 
CONSERVATOIRE DE MONTMARTRE and its Shad- 
ow Theatre, the CABARET DU NEANT, a sinister dis- 
traction, which might give the creeps to sensitive natures, 
etc. There are many other so-called "music-boxes," but 
we are loath to delve further into these establishments, 
where the spirit of levity runs -very near to or even over- 
steps the border-line of license. 

We shall confine ourselves to mention the few restaur- 
ants where one sups as a rule when the humor has taken 
one to make a trip to the "Hill;" L'Abbaye de Theleme, 
Le Rat Mort, Le Pere Lathuile. 



The Circles or Clubs. 

With regard to these we must make a division into two 
distinct categories, viz.: the cercles or clubs, as we will call 
them henceforth, which are absolutely closed; that is, 
where admission is very difficult to obtain, and those where 
you may be received as a member on simple application 
after a couple of days. The club in France offers a double 
advantage; aside of the attraction of the gaming-table 
(baccarat, ecarte, etc.) you find there carriage accommo- 
dation, passes to theatres, and— a boon in itself— very good 
meals at very reasonable prices. Among the clubs, which 
we designated as closed, we mention at the head of the 
list 

THE JOCKEY (i Rue Scribe). 

This is the meet of all turfmen and sportsmen of distinc- 
tion; it is a characteristic club of rich men only. Stran- 
gers can be admitted as temporary members for a term of 
four months upon payment of 200 francs. They are subject 
10 the same rules as the permanent club-members, and are 
elected by ballot, which takes place every Saturday within 
the period of January ist to June 30th. 

CERCLE DE LA RUE ROYALE (i Rue Royale). 

This is also one of the most exclusively closed clubs, even 
to strangers, who must be presented by two permanent 
members, one of them to belong to the candidate's nation- 
ality; and they cannot be admitted for less than three 
months.**' The admission is subject to ballot, and the ad- 
mission fee amounts to 216 francs. 



HOW TO SRE PARIS ALONE 1 65 

CERCLE DES CHEMINS DE FER. 
{22 Rue de la Michodiere.) 

In accordance with Article 7 of the By-Laws candidates 
for temporary membership must be presented by two per- 
manent members of the club, and their names, together 
with the names of their sponsors, remain posted during five 
days before the ballot. Only committee members can vote. 
Six members must partake in the vote. One black ball 
ofifsets three white ones. Strangers can be admitted as 
temporary members for a term not to exceed three months. 

In the cercles or clubs which we will call the open ones 
admission is much easier. 

We mention the following: 

CERCLE DES CAPUCINES. 6 Boulevard des 
Capucines. 

CERCLE ANGLAIS, 3 Rue de la Chaussee d'Antin. 

CERCLE DE L'ESCRIAIE. 9 Rue Taitbout. 

CERCLE CENTRAL DES LETTRES ET DES 
ARTS, 36 Rue Vivienne. 

CERCLE DE NEUILLY. 



Periodical Eiitertaiiiineiits. 

In Paris, as in all large cities, certain entertainments and 
celebrations occur at stated intervals, and all these will be 
more brilliant than ever at the present Exposition time. 
We will only mention the principal events: 

THE CONCOURS HIPPIQUE (Horse-Show). 

The Concours Hippique de Paris, which is organized 
every year by the Societe Hippique Frangaise, will come 
ofif with special pomp in the inner court of the Ecole de 
Guerre (War Academy). It will only last fifteen days, from 
the i2th to the 28th of May, and this will be succeeded by 
an international horse-show from May 28th to June 2d. A 
personal card of admission must be taken for the whole 
duration of the horse-show, and this card entitles you to 
a seat on the reserved stands, otherwise you will have to 
pay five francs at the entrance turnstiles. 

THE SALONS. 

This is the name by which the exhibitions of paintings 
and sculpture are known, which are organized every year 
by the Societe des Artistes Frangais and the Society of the 



l66 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

Champ-de-Mars, the latter being a offshoot of the Societe 
des Artistes Frangais, from which it separated a few years 
ago. The two exhibitions take place in the same place, 
and both comprise everything that the artistic year has 
yielded of real merit, both in canvas or sculpture. The 
day of days for visiting the Salon, when the ladies arrive 
in their brightest apparel in the most stylish turnouts, and 
where all Parisian notabilitieii meet, is undoubtedly the 
opening day of the Salon, the "vernissage." Admission 
can be had by invitation of the artists or by paying lo 
francs. The Salon remains open for thirty days, and the 
price of admission is I franc, except on Fridays, when it is 
5 francs. Even if you should wish to examine only per- 
functorily the majority of the canvasses, you need three or 
four hours. As a rule, people visit the Salon several times. 
This year it is at the Avenue de Breteuil. 



THE BENCH SHOW (EXPOSITION CANINE). 

The International Bench Show is organized by the 
Central Society for the Improvement of French Breeds of 
Dogs, and takes place every year from May 20th to 28th on 
the terrace of the Orangery of the Tuileries. It is the 
most important exhibition of the kind on the continent of 
Europe. From 1,400 to 1,800 dogs are shown. During 
these eight days the show is the select rendezvous "par 
excellence." The high-life of Paris and France come here. 
Admission, 2 francs; season ticket for the whole duration 
of the bench show, 20 francs. Its president is the Prince de 
Wagram; secretary, Mr J. Boutrou. 

HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITION. 

Each year, in Spring and Fall, the National Society of 
Horticulture organizes in the Tuileries various exhibitions 
on the Terrace des Feuillants. During the World's Fair 
special horticultural exhibitions will be held about twice 
every month, either in the Palace of Horticulture, erected 
on the Cours-la-Reine, or in the immense Salle des Fetes 
(Festival Hall), which has been built amidst the old ma- 
chine gallery. At the same time there is a permanent hor- 
ticultural exhibition in the gardens around the Palace of 
the Champs-Elysees, along the Seine and at various point:; 
in the Trocadero, on the Esplanade des Invalides and at 
Vincennes. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 6/ 

THE BATTLE OF FLOWERS. 

Every year at the beginning of June the Societe des Vic- 
times du Devoir, a society following the noble aim to 
soothe and heal the wounds which arrant fate has struck 
to orphans and widows of those who fell in the perform- 
ance of duty, reserves part of the Bois de Boulogne at the 
Neuilly entrance and gives a Flower Festival on the plan 
of the celebrated Nice event. Carriages pay for admission 
to the inclosure according to the number of horses (people 
afoot pay l franc). Tlie proceeds go to the "victims of 
duty." This festival is well worth seeing. Towards 6 p. 
m. you will see a long file of carriages, trapped with 
wreaths and garlands, gaily beribboned and bedecked with 
flowers of every hue and variety. It is a battle of elegance 
and taste, as the best decorated carriages receive very fine 
prizes, and let me assure you that the battle is animated, 
gay and full of zest, though the missiles be flowers. 

THE REVIEW ON JULY 14TH. 

This is the grand military event of France, where the 
whole garrison of Paris passes in review at Longchamps 
before the President of the Republic and the Minister of 
War. The finishing climax of the wonderful military spec- 
tacle is a superb cavalry charge. You cannot pay your way 
to this review; you must obtain admission cards either 
through some officer or through diplomatic channels, and 
even when you have the much valued pasteboard, you must 
be on the ground much before 3 o'clock, when the review 
starts, because the tribunes are packed since 2. 

THE OPERA BALLS. 

These have preserved their pristine splendor and ani- 
mated gaiety, for which they are known throughout the 
world. It is considered "the thing" not to miss them. The 
first ball takes place each year by February loth, and the 
Mardi-Gras and mid-Lent balls are. of course, the most 
frequented events. Battles of flowers and many novel and 
original attractions are arranged, always in keeping with 
the tastes and fads of the day, and strangers say unan- 
imously that nowhere balls can be given which can com- 
pare in animation, mirth and life to these memorable feasts 
of Parisian gaiety, more so as the frame of the Opera of- 
fers a truly unique foil to this carnival of "laisser aller" in 
its grandeur. 



i68 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



RACING CALENDAR. 



JULY. 



Sunday, i. — Auteuil. — 

Amiens. — La Reole. — 

Marseille. — Hede. — La 

Roche-sur-Yon. 
Monday, 2. — Vincennes 

(flat). — La Roche-sur- 
Yon. — La Reole. 
Wednesday, 4. — Colombes. 
Thursday. 5. — Enghien. 
Friday, 6. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Sunday, 8. — Auteuil. — 

Amiens. — Rennes. — Ro- 

chefort-sur-Mer. — Vichy. 

— Salon. — Pompadour. — 

Redon. 
Monday, 9. — Vincennes 

(flat). — Rochefort-sur- 

Mer. — Rennes. 
Tuesday, 10. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. — Lugon. 
Wednesday, 11. — Colombes. 
Thursday, 12.— Saint-Ouen. 
Saturday, 14. — Vincennes 

(flat). 
Sunday, 15. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. — Vichy. — Longue. 

— Lugon. — Redon. 
Monday, 16. — Saint-Ouen. 



Thursday, 19. — Maisons- 

Laffitte. 
Friday, 20. — Enghien. 
Sunday, 22. — Vincennes 

(flat).— Vichy.— Verdun. 

— La Fleche. — Vitre. — 
Marennes. — Lamballe. — 
Aix-les-Bains. — Chalon- 
sur-Saone. — ■ Fontenay-le- 
Comte. — Nancy. — Niort. 

— Saint-Palais. 
Monday, 23. — Saint-Ouen. 

— Chalon-sur-Soone. — 
Fontenay - le - Comte. — 
Niort. 

Tuesday, 24. — Enghien. — 

Aix-les-Bains. 
Thursday, 26. — Maisons- 

Laflitte. — Aix-les-Bains. 
Sunday, 29. — -Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. — Fontenay - le - 

Comte. — Aix-les-Bains. 

— Langon. — Verdon. — 
Commercy. — Vichy. — 
Nancy. 

Monday, 30. — Langon. — 
Fontenay - le - Comte. — 
Commercy. 



AUGUST. 



Wednesday, i. — Vincennes 
(flat). 

Thursday, 2. — Maisons-Laf- 
fitte. — Boulogne-sur-Mer. 

Friday, 3. — Boulogne-sur- 
Mer. — Vichy. 

Sunday, 5. — Boulogne-sur- 
Mer. — Marseille. — Vichy. 
- — Vienne. 

Tuesday, 7. — Caen (mixed). 

Wednesday, 8. — Caen (mix- 
ed). — Vichy. 



Thursday, 9. — Vichy. — Li- 

sieux. 
Friday, 10. — Deauville. 
Saturday, 11. — Avranches. 
Sunday, 12. — Deauville. — 

Vichy. — Avranches. 
Monday, 13. — Pont-l'Ev- 

eque. — Cabourg (mixed). 
Tuesday. 14. — Cabourg 

(mixed). 
Wednesday, 15. — Deauville, 

— Mirande. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



169 



AUGUST— Continued. 

Thursday, 16. — Deauville. 
Saturday, 18. — Deauville 

Ihurdle). 
Sunday, 19. — Deauville. — 

Mont-Saint-Michel.— Le 

Creusot. 
Monday, 20. — Alont-Saint 

Michel. 
Tuesday, 21. — Deauville. 



Wednesday, 22. — Deauville 

(obstacles). 
Thursday, 2^,. — Deauville 

(mixed). 
Sunday, 26. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 
Wednesday, 29. — Neuilly- 

Le\-aIlois. 
Friday, 31. — Cologne. 



SEPTE 
I. — Neuilly-Le- 

— Paris. — Co- 



Saturday, 

vallois. 
Sunday, 

logne. 
Monday, 3. — Vincennes 

(flat).— Cologne. 
Wednesday, 5. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 
Thursday, 6. — Tarbes. 
Friday, 7. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Saturday, 8. — 'Lucerne. 
Sunday, 9. — Paris. — Tarbes. 

— Lucerne. — Pompadour. 
Monday, 10. — Vincennes 

(flat). 
Tuesday, 11. — Enghien. 
Wednesday, 12. — Vincennes 

(trotting) . — Lucerne. 
Tliursday, 13. — Saint-Ouen. 
Friday, 14. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Saturday, 15. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 
Sunday, 16. — Paris. — Mar- 
seilles. — Cluny. 
Monday, 17. — Vincennes 

(flat).— Cluny. 



MBER. 
Tuesday, 18. — Enghien. 
Wednesday, 19. — Neuilly- 

Levallois. 
Thursday, 20. ^ Maisons- 

Laffitte. 
Friday, 21.— Saint-Ouen. 
Saturday, 22. — Vincennes 

(flat). 
Sunday. 23.— Paris. — Mar- 
seille.— Le Pin (mixed). 

— Le Clavette. 
^fonday, 24.— Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Wednesday, 26.~Maisons- 

Lafiitte. 
Thursday, 27.— Saint-Ouen. 

— Caen (stallion trial 

race). — Castres. 
Friday, 28.— Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. — Caen (stallion trial 

race). 
Saturday, 29.— Colombes.— 

Caen (mixed). 
Sunday, 30.— Paris.— Lille. 

— Marseille. — Caen (mix 

ed).— Castres.— Macon. 



OCTOBER. 

Monday, i. — Vincennes Thursday, 4.— Maisons-Laf 

(flat). fitte. 

Tuesday, 2. — Saint-Ouen. Friday, 5. — Enghien. 

Wednesday, 3 —Colombes. Saturday, 6.— Pari.s. 



I/O 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



OCTOBER- 

Sunday, 7. — Paris. 
Monday, 8. — Vincennes 

(trot). 
Tuesday, 9. — Saint-Ouen. 
Wednesday, 10. — Colombes. 
Friday, 12. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Saturday, 13. — Auteuil. 
Sunday, 14. — Paris. 
Monday, 15. • — Vincennes 

(flat). 
Tuesday, 16. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Wednesday, 17. — Colombes. 
Thursday, 18. — Paris. 
Friday, 19. — Saint-Ouen. — 

Cologne. 
Saturday, 20. — Auteuil. 



-Continued. 

Sunday, 21. — Paris. — Bor- 
deaux. — Cologne. 

Monday, 22. — Vincennes 
(mixed). 

Tuesday, 2^. — Chantilly. 

Wednesday, 24. — Colombes. 

Thursday, 25. — Chantilly. — 
Bordeaux. 

Friday, 26. — Maisons-Laf- 
fitte. 

Saturday, 27.— rAuteuil. 

Sunday, 28. — Chantilly. — 
Marseille.— Bordeaux. 

Monday, 29. — Vincennes 
(flat). 

Monday, 30. — Maisons-Laf- 
fitte. 



NOVEMBER 
Thursday, i. — Auteuil. — 

Bordeaux. — Marseille. 
Friday, 2. — Vincennes 

(flat). 
Saturday, 3. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 
Sunday, 4. — Auteuil. — Bor- 
deaux. — Marseille. 
Monday, 5. — Vincennes 

(flat). 
Tuesday, 6. — Saint-Ouen. 
Wednesday. 7. — Maisons- 

Laffitte. 
Thursday, 8.— Auteuil. 
Friday, 9. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Saturday, 10. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 
Sunday, 11. — Auteuil. 
Monday, 12. — Vincennes 

'flat). 



Tuesday, 13. — Maisons-Laf- 

fitte. 
Wednesday, 14. — Colombes. 
Thursday, 15. — Auteuil. 
Friday, 16. — Saint-Ouen. 
Saturday, 17. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 

Sunday, 18. — Auteuil. 
Monday, 19. — Vincennes 

(mixed). 
Tuesday, 20. — Enghien. 
Wednesday, 21. — Colombes. 
Thursday, 22. — Auteuil. 
Friday, 22. — Saint-Ouen. 
Friday, 30. — Enghien. 
Saturday, 24. — Neuilly-Le- 

vallois. 
Sunday, 25. — Auteuil. 
Monday, 26. — Vincennes 

(mixed). 

Tuesday, 27. — Saint-Ouen. 
Thursday, 29. — Auteuil. 



DECEMBER. 
Sunday, 2. — Auteuil. Sunday, 9. — Auteuil. 

Monday, 3. — Enghien. Saturday, 15. — Auteuil. 

Thursday, 6. — Auteuil. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I /I 

THE RACES. 

The races have a quite particular importance here, not 
only on account of the splendor and elegance displayed by 
the spectators, but principally owing to the richness of the 
prizes, which attract the best cracks of the world. Paris 
is surrounded by a belt of racetracks, which divide them- 
selves into the racing calendar. There are races daily at 
one of the tracks, except in August, which is devoted to 
the races at Trouville and the coast of Normandy; and, 
further, excepting the time December 15th to February 
15th, when the Southern races are run, principally at Nice 
and Pau. Let me give a few practical hints to such as are 
not regular visitors at the tracks. 

You will find in almost any newspaper the place where 
races are run on a particular day. The best means of com- 
munication is nearly always by rail. Be careful not to 
make a mistake in the station, and do not arrive at the 
last minute. The railroads run special trains on racing 
days, and the time of departure will be given, just above 
the list of the field, in the Paris-Courses, a paper specially 
devoted to racing, or any other racing paper. These trains 
stop running about one-half hour or one hour before the 
time set for the first race, in accordance with the distance 
of the track. For the Chantilly races you must leave by 
noon; for the others you will be in time if you are at the 
station by i p. m., no later than 1.30 p. m., if the races 
begin at 2 p.- m., which is the usual time. On all racetracks 
we have paddock (pesage) and enclosure (the pelouse) ; 
only a few have a pavilion. The admission price to the 
paddock is uniformly 20 francs for men, 10 francs for la- 
dies; the pavilion (where it exists, and we shall mention 
this at each track) costs 5 francs for gentlemen or ladies. 

The enclosure (pelouse) costs i franc admission on some 
tracks and 3 francs on others. The paddock is certainly 
the most pleasant place, where you find the best people. 
For a man unaccompanied by a lady the pavilion is not 
so bad, but at the pelouse the public is very mixed. 

Although almost everybody knows how to place a bet 
on the races, I will say a few words to novices. On en- 
tering the paddock you receive the official programme, 
and on the same you will find under the head of each race 
the name of the owner; the names of the horses are ar- 
ranged consecutively by numbers, i. 2, 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. etc., and 
ihe pedigree and weight carried are given. 

About one-fourth hour before the first race numbers, 
and opposite the same the names of the jockeys, are posted 



172 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

on a big board. Thus, when the disc over the board ap- 
pears in red, which occurs as soon as the field is closed, it 
means that only the horses indicated by numbers will run 
and that the corresponding jockeys will mount. Assum- 
ing that horses from Nos. i to 8 appear on a programme, 
and the board posts Nos. i, 2, 3, 5, 7; this would mean that 
the horses 4, 6 and 8 have been scratched. If, for instance. 
No. 2 corresponds on the board to T. Lane, and the pro- 
gramme indicates Valparaiso under No. 2, it means that 
horse No. 2, Valparaiso, will run with T. Lane up. 

After you have scratched on your programme the num- 
bers which are not posted, you may make your selection, 
and I cannot advise you much in that direction. The 
smallest bet at the paddock is 10 francs, at the pelouse and 
the pavilion 5 francs. You must designate your horse by 
number, not by name; you may play it to win or for place, 
if there are more than three horses starting. Where only 
three horses start you can only play for first, not for place 
where four horses run you can play first, and two for place, 
and with a field of eight horses there is one for first and 
three are for place. 

If the same owner starts two or more horses in the same 
race, you may select one or the other horse to win (but 
not for place), but if one of the horses of the stable wins 
the winner is paid on either number of the same stable. 

I suppose that you have friends to give you a tip on the 
horses to play, otherwise, if you are a novice, you may play 
just as you would play lottery, go it blind or follow the 
•elections of some racing paper. By all means do not be 
taken in by so-called tipsters. There is a lot of people at 
the races who will tell you to play for them, or to give 
them 10 to 20 francs for indicating the "sure thing" of the 
race. Don't listen to them; they know no more than your- 
self, and all they want is to part you from your 10 or 20 
francs. Another advice, last but not least: Watch your 
pocketbook. 

SPORTING PRESS. 

The opening of the sporting season gives birth to a host 
of ephemeral publications. Hence we shall only mention 
the principal mouthpieces of sport, such papers as have 
been familiar for a long time to the frequenters of the turf. 

AUTEUIL-LONCjCHAMPS costs 10 centimes and is 
in its eighteenth year. This is the most important sporting 
daily; it enjoys the reputation of being well informed and 
every season it counts the best quota of successful racing 
prognostication. Daily, five minutes after each race, it 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1/3 

sends to its subscribers and to the principal cafes, where 
you can peruse the sheet, the resuU of the race, with the 
report of the proceeds of the mutuals. An evening- edition 
gives the complete result and a summary of the day, to- 
gether with the entries and the programme of the next 
day. Chief editor is Mr. A. Laurentz. 

LE JOCKEY, daily at lo centimes, is in the hands of 
every horse-owner and grandstand habitue. 

PARIS-COURSES, daily at 5 centimes; the favorite of 
the paddock crowds, as much on account of its cheapness 
as for the quality of its information. 

PARIS-SPORT, 10 centimes, appears every racing day 
at 5 p. m., and gives complete results of the day and the 
programme of the next day, with the latest performance 
of each horse entered. 

LA FRANCE CHEVALINE, twice weekly, at 50 cen- 
times, is the special organ of trotting races, and is read by 
all lovers of this sport, whom Parisians designate with the 
sobriquet of "trotters." 

FLAT COURSE RACES. 

LONGCHAMPS.— Twenty minutes from Saint-Lazare 
station by rail. Longchamps is the best known flat race- 
course. You have the choice of any number of convey- 
ances, but the most agreeable and simplest communication 
is certainly by the special trains which leave from Saint- 
Lazare station evefy 5 minutes between i and 1.30 p. m. for 
Suresnes; tickets, first-class, 60 centimes; second-class, 40 
centimes. These trains have a bar-car, where you can ob- 
tain excellent refreshments and smoke at your ease. 

Longchamps has a pavilion at 5 francs; the paddock 
costs I franc only, but you can also see the races very well 
from a carriage on the paddock near the winning post. 
Admission for one-horse carriages, 15 francs; two horses, 
20 francs. 

The principal races are the Poules de Produits (Pools), 
Prix Hocquart, Prix Noailles, Prix Grefifulhe, Poule 
d'Essai de Pouliches. Poule d'Essai des Poulains (both the 
latter filly maiden pools), Prix Daru, Prix Lupin. As a 
crowning glory of the Summer meet, the Grand Prix de 
Paris (200,000 francs) is run on the second Sunday in June, 
the greatest event of the season. In Fall we have the coun- 
terpart to the Grand Prix de Paris in the Grand Prix du 
Conseil Muncipal (100,000 francs), which is run on the first 
Sunday in October; and, besides, we have the Royal Oak, 
Omnium Grand Criterium and the Prix Gladiator. 



1/4 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

CliANTlLLY. — This is the former property of the 
Duke d'Aumale, and the races, which attract the most ele- 
gant public of Paris, notwithstanding the comparative dis- 
tance of this track, are run just opposite the castle. There 
is only one connection with Chantilly, by the Compagnie 
du Nord, which has done wonders to insure a rapid and 
perfect service. Special trains take about 40 minutes to 
Chantilly, and 30 to 40 run on racing days, one after the 
other. Round trip, first-class, 6.90 francs; second-class, 
4.95 francs; third-class, 3.20 francs. As it is necessary to 
leave at 12.30 p. m. at the latest, I venture to give you the 
good advice to lunch at the bufifet of the station, where you 
will find an excellent meal at very moderate price. The 
paddock admission costs i franc, but there is no pavilion. 

When you arrive at Chantilly station you must take 
a carriage to go to the race course. Arrange about the fare 
with the driver beforehand, about 3 to 5 francs. 

There are only three meets, in May and end of October. 
The Diana prize comes off in May; also, the great event of 
the Jockey Club, generally called the Derby (75,000 francs). 
The races begin at 1.30 p. m. 



MAISONS-LAFFITTE.— A charming race^ track par 
excellence, only 24 minutes' ride from the Saint-Lazare 
station. These meets are extremely well frequented, par- 
tially on account of the great number of entries and further 
on account of the splendid yield of the mutuals. There is 
but one drawback, the lack of refreshment cars on the 
trains of the Compagnie de I'Ouest. This track has no 
pavilion. Admission to the paddock costs 3 francs. Car- 
riages are not allowed on the grounds. Principal prizes: 
In March the Prix Delatre; April, Prix Lagrange; May, 
Prix Godolphi; July, Prix Monarque; August, the Om- 
nium; September, Prix de Flore. End of September there 
are three international days. Thames Handicap. From 
October the races begin at 1.30 p. m., in Summer at 2 p. m. 

And now just a few words about 

VINCENNES — where mixed races are run, flat, obstacle 
or trotting. 

You may reach Vincennes by carriage, as the railroad 
service is very bad and there are so many accidents that it 
is better to run no risk. The catastrophe of Saint-Mande 
will be long remembered. Moreover, a carriage will take 
you to Vincennes for 3 francs in twenty minutes. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 175 

OBSTACLE RACES. 

Ahead of all we mention: 

AUTEUIL. — At the very gates of Paris. You reach the 
track by the Western R. R. (Chemin de Per de I'Ouest) in 
less than twenty minutes. Most of the trains carry refresh- 
ment cars, and the bar does a rushing business. 

Here we find a pavilion, seats 5 francs, and the paddock 
costs I franc admission. Round trip, 50 centimes. 

The public at large is extremely fond of this track, where 
it always finds exciting racing and good odds. 

Auteuil Opens on February 15th and closes December 
15th. It opens and closes the sporting season. The most 
important Spring events at this course are the Futurity 
(Prix de I'Avenir), the National Steeplechase, the Spring 
Prize (Prix du Printemps), the President's Prize (Prix du 
President de la Republique), 50,000 francs; in Summer we 
have the Grand Steeplechase of Paris (120,000 francs), the 
Great Hurdle Race (50,000 francs), the International Races, 
the Prix des Drags and the Wild Monarch Prize; in Fall 
the Futurity, Congress, Montgomery Prizes and the Croix 
de Berny. 

SAINT-OUEN. — Very pretty little race course, a great 
favorite of sportsmen. It is on the line of the Northern 
R. R. (Chemin de Fer du Nord). Tlie prizes are not very 
heavy, but there is always a great field at good odds. 

ENGHIEN. — Is also a very nice obstacle track, near the 
Casino d'Enghien; also on the Northern R. R. Unfortu- 
nately the prizes, which are small, do not attract much of a 
field. 

COLOMBES.— On the Western R. R. line (Chemin de 
Fer de I'Ouest, 20 minutes from Paris; refreshment cars 
on each train. This course is patronized by heavy bettors; 
• this is a gentlemen's track, and ofifers many strong sur- 
prises to the talent. Paddock. 3 francs; no pavilion. 

We conclude by mentioning, for compJeteness' sake, the 
tracks of Rarnbouillet and Compiegne, where some rare 
meets attract crowds of visitors, when they come ofif. 

• TROTTING. 

These races attract a special public, among whom we 
will find most of the horse-breeders of the Norman region. 
Most of the races are run in the country. However, the 
Half-Blood Society (Societe des Demi-sang) possesses 
near Paris a small track for this sport, at Neuilly-Levallois. 
On the big Vincennes race course this society reserves for 



176 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

the trotters some heavy prizes on the days of mixed races. 
Here the breeding prize (Prix de I'elevage) and Presi- 
dent's Prize are contested for in Summer. As the latter 
amounts to 50,000 francs, it is certainly a big event for the 
trotters. 

In the Fail of last year the society had arranged a well- 
equipped and most successful international contest, and an- 
other event of the same kind will be offered to the lovers 
'^f trotting sport during the Exposition. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



CUSTOMS AND USAGES OF THE GREAT 
BUSINESS HOUSES OF PARIS. 



Let us now describe the daily life of a Parisian, taking 
the stranger by the hand and disregarding for the moment 
the curiosities of the capital, and let us guide him at ran- 
dom through this life of the boulevards here, there and 
everywhere, in order that he may rapidly familiarize 
himself with those thousand nothings, those indefinable 
subtleties which make the charm of Paris and give the 
true Parisian his characteristic appearance. In this way 
the foreigner will quickly learn how they dress, what is 
worn, or, rather, what it is proper to lay aside, following 
le dictates of the fashion of the day, the hour or the mo- 
nent. He will learn those business houses which are "the 
thing," which will make him present a stylish appearance. 
not only by means of the goods which they will ofifer, but 
also by means of tactful hints and suggestions. Let us 
begin the day with the Parisian. After he has taken his 
chocolate, if he has a position under the Government, 
you will find him in his ofiice about half-past nine; he 
will remain there until noon, and will return at two to 
stay until five. The greater part of the offices close from 
noon until two o'clock, for the breakfast (dejeuner) is a 
very important matter in Paris. At half-past five the 
Parisian comes out on the boulevard. It is the hour of the 
greatest stir and activity in the city. The foreigner, who 
generally up to that time has other matters than those of 
business, will pass his time in looking through the large 
shops, studying the styles, inspecting the latest productions 
in the Parisian fashion, like those not engaged in business. 

He must have alighted at some hotel convenient to the 
centre of life and bustle, like the Hotel Mirabeau, in the Rue 
de la Paix. This well-known hotel is frequented by the most 
distinguished personages of France and Europe, and is 
also the resort of affluent society. 

One is certain of a cordial reception there, and the 
prices are not extortionate. Every comfort is to be had. 
About half way up the Avenue de I'Opera, at No. 22, op- 



178 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



posite the Rue des Pyramides, the handsome entrance of 
the Hotel des Deux-AIondes attracts the attention of the 
visitor. This entrance opens on the court of the hotel, 
which is surrounded with handsome terraces and gives 
carriages access within the hotel structure. Families 
which rnay have the good fortune to secure rooms or 
apartments in this eminently respectable house may be 
assured the}' will lack nothing of quiet, comfort or luxury, 
and that, too, at very moderate prices. The kitchen and 
attendance are of the very best. 

At the regular hours for meals and at the five o'clock 
tea a fashionable gathering, in addition to the regular 
guests of the house, throngs the rooms and tables of the 
hotel restaurant. It is worth a visit. 

For the wants of a large class who wish luxury, but in a 







■ 1^ ^WimMmme-i 





HOTEL MIRABEAU 



quiet part of the city near the Bois de Boulogne, we would 
mention that elegant hotel, The American, newly fitted 
up, in the magnificent Avenue de Friedland, at No. 19, a 
hotel especially designed for wealthy Americans, and ar- 
ranged to give them all the comfort and luxury to which 
they are accustomed. Banking houses are as useful as 
hotels, but in a different way. We would mention Mun- 
roe, in the Rue Scribe; the Comptoir National d'Es- 
compte, Rue Bergere and Place de I'Opera, as safe and 
desirable, whether for the deposit of money or valuables. 
Before going further, let us call the reader's attention 
to an admirable organization designed to care for the 
foreigner in case of accident or illness, and whether his 
wants be medical, surgical or dental in their nature. This 
establishment, unique of its kind in Paris, is called Tin- 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



179 



stitut Medical International. It is in sight from the Place 
du Theatre Frangais, it is on the corner of the Rue' de 
I'Echtlle, where, at No. 3, may be seen, up one flight, a 
conspicuous sign in large white letters, I'lnstitut ^Medical 
International. 

The several departments of this institution are under the 
care of specialists of reputation, and all languages are 
spoken. The hours of consultation are from 10 to 12 and 
2 to 5. Tickets are sold, covering treatment for a week 
or a month, at 10 and 20 francs. These are good for all 




CAFE RICHE 



the members of a family. Thus provided against accident 
or illness, let us decide upon suitable restaurants in dif- 
ferent parts of the city, which are frequented by people 
of the right class, and where we may be sure of finding a 
nice kitchen and proper neighbors, but Parisians, the real 
Parisian. In order that no mistake be made in this re- 
spect, suitable restaurants will be minutely specified. If 
you happen to be on the boulevards, in the center of things 
the name Paiilard should be mentioned — the Restaurant 
Paillard, celebrated throughout Paris for the excellenct 



l80 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

of its kitchen and wine cellar. Let us continue our leis- 
urely stroll along the boulevards where, whatever be the 
hour of the day, you will iind means of amusing your- 
self in true Parisian style. Opposite the point of inter- 
section oi .he Rue Lalitte with the boulevard is the Church 
of Notre Dame de Lorette, and in line with this, above and 
having almost the appearance of having been built on top 
of it, is the Church of the Sacre Coeur de Montmartre. 
You will soon see close by a handsome edifice on the same 
side of the way. It is the Cafe Riche, on the corner of 
the Rue Le Pelelier. The reputation of the Cafe Riche is 
very great. It has become, by an almost fairy-like trans-, 
formation, the most elegant cafe in Paris. It is to-day a 
very palace and a resort where one would like to dine, 
were it only once, in order to have some souvenir of an 
establishment so unrivaled in its class and some remem- 
brance of its never to be forgotten kitchen. Olher cafes 
worthy of mention are the Cafe dc Paris, Avenue de 
rOpera and Marguery, on the boulevards near the Theatre 
du Gymnase. This last named, one of the best, may be 
found very useful because of its proximity to the theatres 
which you will probably visit. Going along the boulevard 
toward La Porte Saint Martin (Saint Martin's Gate), 
we shall Hnd the Restaurant Maire on the corner of the 
Boulevard de Strasbourg, a daily meeting-place for artists 
and the gay world. 

The Place de la Concorde being an attractive spot and 
likely to claim the foreigner's attention many times, we 
give as a near-by restaurant in the Champs Elysees, the 
Pavilion Paillard, justly :elebrated among the most exact- 
ing epicures. The hour of breakfast or dinner may some- 
times find you on the other side of the river, or on the 
left bank of the Seine. If you are there for the purpose of 
visiting the Museum of Cluny or the Palace of the Lux- 
embourg, or the Theatre I'Odeon, you will find a con- 
veniently situated restaurant, long established and of great 
celebrity both for its kitchen and its wine-cellar, at the 
corner of the Rue de Tournon. It is the Restaurant Foyot, 
opposite the Senate Chamber. It is, during the sessions 
of this body, a sort of parliamentary headquarters, and a 
nightly place of meeting for the devotees of the second 
Theatre Frangais, which has become the first in rank 
pending the rebuilding of the Maison de Moliere. 

A brief general observation on the character of the 
Parisian cafe, or coflee-house, and the part it plays in the 
economy of Parisian life may perhaps be permitted here. 

Certain cafes are frequented by the literary class, certain 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE l8l 

Others by artists, still others by the theatrical world. Men 
of nearly all classes have their cafe where they are reason- 
ably certain to be found at a given hour every day, and 
where a great deal of business is transacted, ino attempt 
will be made to classify these very numerous resorts, but 
during the season, if you drop in at one of the following 
named from hve to six F. Al. you will see to the best 
advantage the amusing, fan.astic, changeable and ever- 
interesting panorama of Parisian life unfold itself before 
you: Grand Cafe, corner of the Rue Scribe; Cafe de la 
Paix, Place de I'Opera; Napolitan, opposite the Vaude- 
ville Theatre; Pousset, between the Rue Le Peletier and 
the passage of the Opera. 

If you desire to be in the fashion, you must wear, at 
different periods of the day, different costumes. That of the 
morning is not suitable for the afternoon. That for a 
shopping tour must be changed if you wish to make a call. 
My object in this chapter is not to become a master of the 
complicated art of dressing in accordance with the dictates 
of the Fashion. I do not propose even to retrace here the 
main lines of how one should dress for given occasions, but 
I desire nevertheless to place you on guard against such 
heresies, ''or instance, as to appear in a Prince Albert coat 
with a derby hat. I prefer, however, to direct you for the 
various shades to be observed, and which are likely to 
change any day, to a tailoring firm who can furnish you 
with ?11 the necessary information on that point, especial- 
ly if you show this book, which will insure you a specially 
courteous and cheerful welcome. Therefore, direct your 
steps to No. 3 Place de la Madeleine, at Messrs. Jamet et 
Harold, and there you will receive all the information 
which at the time I write may be absolutely exact, but alto- 
gether modified or inexact at the time you might call later 
on. It is an old-established house whose reputation goes 
on increasing as purveyors of European courts and elegant 
society. The house of Jamet et Harold has a specialty of 
choice cloths of the latest styles, and their fitting is irre- 
proachable — a very essential point. No one can like 
tiiem give the finish to a business suit which will enable 
you to risk a call without hurting the propriety of dress. 

Another reliable house and one of very attractive ap- 
pearance is Manby, 21 Rue Auber. This house has under- 
gone some very happy alterations in preparation for the 
Exhibition, and its reputation can but be increased by its 
recent output of fresh goods of the greatest elegance and 
good taste. Wraps for ladies are also sold here. 

And now let us attempt a description of the daily rou- 



182 HOW TO SEE PARK ALONE 

tine of a Parisian lady. Her day begins late even by 
contrast with that of the leisurely men of business. With 
the exception of a drive in the Bois de Boulogne or morn- 
mg meetings in the drives like I'AlIee des Poteaux, a la 
Potiniere, a Madrid or a Armenonville, the fashionable 
iady in Pans rarely goes out before two o'clock. 

Her first visit, and one which ladies visiting Paris 
would naturally have occasion to make also, is to her 
dressmaker. I feel sure that none of the ladies who may 
peruse these pages would care to present themselves in 
fashionable resorts in Paris unless gowned in a manner 
to compare favorably with those formidable rivals in dress, 
the gay Parisiennes. The artistic cut and fit of a dress, 
the delicate blending of colors and the general effect of 
the whole are to be had in houses of the highest class as 
nowhere else. Laferriere, 28 Rue Taitbout, is a great 
house, and of the best. It has enjoyed an uninterrupted 
existence of' fifty years on the same spot and is justly 
in high repute for its elegant taste. Alterations have late- 
ly been made within and its apartments for the reception 
of its patrons are now all on the ground floor. Our most 
elegant society ladies and the actresses of our leading 
theatres are among the patrons of this bouse. They are 
also, by appointment, dressmakers to the Princess of 
Wales and to the ladies of several other foreign courts. 
In case our lady readers should find themselves con- 
strained, before fitting on their costumes, to avail them- 
selves of the services of a first-rate corset maker, we 
would mention before all others Leoty, at the end of the 
Place de la Madeleine. 

While in the Place de la Madeleine we will transcribe 
the address of a well known dentist, Dr. Leon. His card 
is printed herewith: 



Ch ir u rg ic n- Den tis te 

Uiplome de la Faculte de (Medccine de Paris 
{Memire de la Societe d' Odontologie 

de 2 a 6 heures 8, place de la Made'eine, PARIS 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 83 

For hats, that indispensable crown to the successful 
toilet, we cannot do better than to suggest to our readers 
to make their selections in the Avenue de I'Opera, where 
the leading milliners are found. At No. 15, Mme. Dra- 
vert-Vallette's, are to be found the most elegant designs, 
whether for calling, for the theatre, for the races or the 
watering places, and these, we might add, at prices that 
are astonishingly low for the lovely tilings offered. 

Not very far from there, Place du Theatre Frangais, 
No. 3, is a young house which has already made for itself 
a reputation for turning out original and attractive de- 
signs. It is the old house of Satori, Mmes. Feuillatre et 
Liotard, successors. Their prices are low for what are 
really works of art. 

By this time it is four o'clock, and time for lunch. Par- 
isian ladies, usually without escort at this hour, never go 
to a coffee-house alone. They patronize one of the pastry- 
cook shops which abound along the route by which we 
have come, Rue Royale, Chaussee-d'Antin and du Havre, 
close by the railway station, Saint-Lazare. There are 
places which offer tea and muffins from 4 to 5, and 
which are well frequented. Colombin, in the Rue Cam- 
bon, is especially to be recommended. In no particular 
does Fashion hold a more arbitrary and exacting sway at 
Paris than in the selection of letter-paper and stationery 
of all sorts. Stern, near ihe Theatre des Varietes, pas- 
sage des Panoramas, has acquired a great reputation for 
luxurious letter and notepaper and elegant stationery of all 
kinds. His prints from steel-plate engravings and other 
artistic compositions are justly very celebrated. 

In antiques and rare works of art, Lovengard, formerly 
in the Rue Buffault, but who now, having outgrown his 
former premises, has taken up his abode at No. i Boule- 
vard des Capucines, has a choice collection which no 
amateur of ancient and artistic gems in that line can 
afford to overlook. Some choice and rare treasures may 
be seen there. 

A visit to one of the jeweler's shops of Paris is almost a 
revelation to the foreigner. Contreau, Rue de la Paix, 
ott'ers a bewitching assortment of precious stones, mount- 
ed and unmounted. These are displayed in perfect taste. 
Hamcl, Avenue de I'Opera, is very highly to be recom- 
mended. In the Rue Louis-le-Grand. No. 11. do not fail 
to visit the establishment of Maingourd, a jeweler from 
le Mans, who has opened a branch here for the sale of 
exquisite jewelry, bracelets, engagement rings, etc., made 
at le Mans by workmen selected from the most compe- 



184 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

tent to be found in Paris. Prices here are very moderate. 
The Palais-Royal still keeps its old time renown for 
everything in the line of jewelry, and Blanchet, 19 and 20 
Gallery Montpensier, offers a wonderful assortment of 
rings, bracelets and necklaces not easily duplicated else- 
where as regards both price and quality of work. It will 
be remembered that in the days of Louis XIV. and Louis 
XV. it was quite the thing to select wedding outfits in 
the Palais-Royal in the shops of the great jewelers of that 
epoch. 

The visitor will hardly leave Paris without bringing into 
requisition the services of a photographer. As you go 
from the Palais-Royal toward the Place Vendome through 
the Rue Samt-Honore, you will see, at No. 350 in this 
last named street, a very fine collection of photographs 
exposed- to view. This gallery, formerly belonging to 
Mora, is to-day carried on by Peuchet, who, in a com- 
paratively short time, has acquired an enviable reputa- 
tion. Foreigners who desire to take away with them some 
photographic souvenir in their visit to the Exposition of 
1900 would do well to visit this house. Foreign languages 
are spoken here. 

And now the day is drawing to its close. After a drive 
through the Bois de Boulogne it will be dinner time, and 
after that time to go to the theatre. It will only remain 
to look m at some restaurants where supper is served 
after midnight. In addition to some excellent restaurants 
which have already been named, there is the Cafe de la 
Paix, the Grand Cafe, Pousset, and last, but highly to be 
recommended for the excellence of its suppers, the Cafe de 
Pa'-is. 

It is impossible to assert that such a round of pleasure 
and activity as has been described is adapted to any but 
the strongest constitutions. If nature, overcome by the 
fatigue or dissipations of life in Paris, should find herself 
in need of the prudent advice or the professional care of 
some competent physician, the office of Dr. Monnet, a 
specialist in diseases of the stomach- and skin, is to be 
found at No. 16 Boulevard Saint Germain. Consultations 
may be had with Dr. Monnet on Mondays, Thursdays and 
Saturdays from 2 to 4 P. M. On other days, or at other 
hours, by appointment. Although Dr. Monnet has pub- 
lished a treatise on diseases of the stomach and skin 
which has attracted attention (it is furnished, postpaid, at 
the nominal price of one franc), the Doctor by no means 
confines himself to these specialties, but treats all forms 
of disease. Dr. Monnet conducts a sanitarium for the 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



185 



especial accommodation and convenience of patients who 
desire to remain under his constant care and observation. 
To wind this chapter up in a gayer tone, we will invite 
your attention to a house where you will hardly fail to 
make a purchase, either for use during your stay in Paris 
or to replenish your wine-cellar on your return. We refer 
to that distmctly French product, champagne wine, source 
of liveliness and restorer of health. The house of E. 
Mercier & Co., Epcrnay, have opened a Palais des Cham- 




Palais dos Cliainpagnes Mercier. 



pagnes, opposite I'Ecole jNlilitairc. It is on the corner 
made by the Avenues dc La Alotte-Piquet and de La 
Bourdonnais. This structure, handsomely designed and 
executed, contains a panoramic and cinematographic rep- 
resentation of the entire process of the culture of the wine 
in the province of Champagne. It also shows, in the same 
manner, a complete picture of all the wine-cellars belong- 
ing to this house and the way in which champagne wines 
are manipulated and ripened for public consumption. This 



lS6 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

structure is rendered more complete by the addition of a 
room where the quality of the wine may be tested by the 
visitor. It is believed the success of this will at least equal 
that of the monster cask at the Exposition of 1889. It 
remains only to assure the reader that the bearer of a copy 
of this "Paris Exposition" will be the recipient of par- 
ticular attentions in all the houses herein mentioned. 



CHAPTER IX. 

MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION FR, ,M PARIS 
TO THE SUBURBS. 



With the exception ol New York, Paris probably has the 
best transportation system of any large city. In the first 
place, there are the public cabs (of which I have given you 
ietails on page 28). The fare is i franc and 75 centimes, 
including a "tip" for a "course," that is, a ride from one 
point to an}' other in the city, and 2 francs and 50 centimes 
if hired for an hour. You can generally find a cab in any 
street, and always at the cab stations, to be found at cer- 
tain corners and more especially in the squares. 

For those who do not wish to take a cab, Paris has pro- 
vided an omnibus and tramway system, which, although 
not equal to that of America, is still very practical. 

We will now speak of the great lines which serve the in- 
terior of Paris in general. As for those intended, more 
particularly for the Exposition, we will give detailed in- 
formation in the second part of the guide. The uniform 
fare on these lines is ,^0 centimes for the inside of the 
vehicles or on the platform, and 15 centimes for a seat en 
top. Smoking is permitted on the platform and on top. 

MADELEINE— BASTILLE 

We first speak of the most frequented line and the one 
which will be the most useful to you is the line from the 
Church of the Madeleine and che Place de la Bastille. 
This line runs from one end of the boulevards to the other. 
On its route it can put you down at any of the following 
theatres: The Opera, the Boufifes, the Nouveautes. the Va- 
rietes, the Gymnase. the Lyrique, the Porte St. Martin and 
the Ambigu. On race days at Vincennes you may take 
this omnibus to the Place de la Bastille, at the side of 
which i= the Vincennes station, where the trains leave for 
the race track. 

PLACE ST. MICHEL- GARE ST. LAZARE 

This line, of which the terminal points are the St. Lazare 
station and the Place St. Michel, is also much frequented. 



1 88 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

It runs through the Rue Auber, passes before the Opera, 
follows the Avenue de 1" Opera, stops before the Theatre 
Francais, goes along the Rue de Rivoli, before the Louvre, 
to the Place du Chatelet, where the theatre of that name 
and also the Sarah Bernhardt theatre are situated, crosses, 
the bridge, passes before the Conciergerie and the Palace 
of Justice, and finally puts you down at the Place St. Mi- 
chel, in the heart of the Latin Quarter. 

VAUGIRARD-GARE ST. LAZARE 

Then there is the Vaugirard-Gare St. Lazare line, much 
frequented by visitors. After passing by the Madeleine 
and the Tuileries, it goes to the celebrated store called the 
Bon Marche, and then continues to an extremity of Paris, 
the Rue Vaugirard. 

We mention these three lines particularly because they 
can be used without confusion by all, even if unfamiliar 
with the French language, their routes are so simple. For 
those who can speak the language, we give, a little further 
on, a table of the lines which serve the interior of Paris, 
namely, the lines cl the Compagnie Generale des Omnibus 
et des Tramways; for the other lines, the Northern and 
Southern Tramways, are only used to go to the extrems? 
limits of the city. 

For those who use the vehicles of the Compagnie Gen- 
erale des Omnibus we wish to explain the method of cor- 
respondence or transfer system. 

The transfer system is provided for the purpose of al- 
lowing a passenger who does not find a line running 
directly to the place he wishes to go, to change cars on 
the route without paying an additional fare. Transfer 
tickets are only given to passengers who pay 30 centimes, 
that is. those who ride below — unless those on top choos'» 
to pay 30 centimes. A transfer ticket can be obtained only 
from the conauctor to whom you pay your fare; that is 
to say, if you have once changed cars and given your 
transfer ticket to the second conductor, you cannot obtain 
from the second conductor a transfer ticket allowing you 
to change cars again. If you do not know at what bureau 
(little street stations) to change, you have only to ask the 
conductor. As soon as you have left the first omnibus 
with your transfer ticket, you must go in the omnibus 
bureau and procure from the agent a ticket stating your 
number among those who are waiting for your second 
omnibus. When this omnibus arrives before the station, 
the numbers are called out. When your number is called 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



189 



out, you get in, giving the conductor your transfer ticket. 
You have nothing to pay in this omnibus. The conductor 
will give you any information as to the place to get out. 
While waiting with your transfer ticket for the second om- 
nibus you are not allowed to leave the omnibus station 
and walk about or go to a store, even though it may take 
but a moment. 



STAGE AND STREET-CAR LINES 



STAGES 



Carrefour des Feuillantines, 

Place Clichy. 
Tiocadero, Gare de I'Est. 
Porte-Maillot, Hotel de Ville. 
Place de I'Etoile, Palais Royal. 
Tames, Filles du Calvaire. 
Madeleine, Bastille. 
Bastille, Place Wagram. 
Batignolles. Jardin des Plantes. 
Clichy, Od^on. 

Place Pigalle, Halle aux Vins. 
Montmartre, Place St. Jacques. 
Boulevard St. -Marcel, Notre 

Dame de Lorette. 
La Villette, Saint-Sulpice. 
Buttes-Chaumont, Palais Royal 
Belleville, Louvre, 
Lac Saint-Fargeau, Louvre. 
M^nilmontant, Gare Montpar- 

nasse. 
Charonne, Place d'ltalie. 
Plaisance, Hotel de Ville. 
Gare de Lyon, St-Philippe du 

Roule. 
Ruejenner, Square Montholon 
Palais Royal, Ecole Militaire. 
Gentilly (Ceinture) Place de la 

R^publique. 



Boulevard Montparnasse, Gare 

du Nord. 
Vaugirard, Gare Saint- Lazare. 
Grenelle, Porte Saint-Martin. 
Grenelle, Place de la Bastille. 
Passy, Place de la Bourse. 
Gare du Nord, Place de I'Alma. 
Champ-de-Mars, Quai de Val- 

my. 
Montrouge (Eglise), Gare de 

passy. 
Pantheon, Place de Courcelles. 
Porte de Versailles, Louvre. 
Javel, Gare Saint- Lazare. 
Gare Saint-Lazare, Place Saint 

Michel. 
Pare Monceau, La Villette. 
Gare Saint-Lazare, Gare de 

Lyon. 
Gare des Batignolles, Gare 

Montparnasse. 
Montmartre, Saint - Germain 

des Pr^s. 
Rue des Morrillons, Les Halles 
Boulevard de Bercy, Boulevard 

de la Villette. 
Porte d'lvry, Bastille. 
Porte Saint -Martin, Concorde. 



190 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



STREET CARS 



Louvre, Vincennes. 
Place de I'Ettjile, La Villette. 
La Villette, Place de la Nation. 
Cours de Vincennes, Louvre. 
Montrouge, Gare de I'Est. 
La Chapelle, Square Monge. 
Cimetiere St.-Ouen, Bastille. 
Passy, Hotel de Ville. 
Louvre, Charenton, Creteil. 
Bastille, Avenue Rapp. 
Gare de Lyon, Place de I'Alma. 
La Muette, rue Taitbout. 
Auteuil, Boulogne. 
Trocadero, La \ illette. 
Trocadero (ceinture), place Pi- 

galle. 
Porte d'lvry, Les Halles. 
Eglise de Boulogne, Les Mou- 

lineaux, 
Place de la Natioii, Gare de 

Sceaux. 
Pantin, Opdra. 
Montreuil, Chatelet. 



Charenton (ecoles), Place de la 

R^publique. 
Saint-Denis, Chatelet. 
Louvre, Saint-Cloud, Sevres . 

Versailles. 
Auteuil, Saint-Sulpice. 
Cours de Vincennes, Saint- 

Augustin. 
Auteuil, Madeleine. 
Montrouge, Saint-Philippe du 

Roule, 
Trocadero (ceinture), Etoile, 

Op6ra. 
Boulevard de Vaugirard, Gare 

du Nord. 
Gare d'Orleans, Gare du Nord. 
Arpajon, Rue de Mddicis. 
Point du Jour, Place de I'Alma. 
Gare de I'Est, Place de la Con- 
corde. 
Place de la R^publique, Place 

de la Concorde. 
Bastille, Place de la Concorde. 



THE PASSENGER BOATS.— If you should find 
yourself near the Seine and wish to take a little trip on the 
water, or to go to sotiie other point which is also near the 
Seine, it is very convenient to take the river boats, which 
will carry you from the Point du Jour to the Bastille for 
the moderate sum of 2 cents on week days and 4 cents 
on Sundays. These boats stop at nearly all the bridges. 

We will mention these boats again in speaking of excur- 
sions to the environs of Paris. 



PARIS-AUTEUIL RAILWAY. 

This line is indeed of very great service to busy persons; 
the fare second-class is 30 centimes, and the trains leav- 
ing the Gare Saint-Lazare every seven minutes, on ord - 
nary days, take a quarter of an hour to reach Auteuil, sit- 
uated right at the other end of Paris. You may stop in 
course of route at the following stations: 
BatignoUes-Courcelles— On the Place Pereire. 
Neuilly— Which supplies the Jardin d'Acclimatation, and 
where is one of the entrances to the Bois de 
Boulogne. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE IQI 

Bois de Boulogne — Facing the Porte Dauphine at the 
Avenue of the Bois de Boulogne, within a few 
yards of the Place de I'Etoile and the Champs 
Elysees. 

Trocadero — Right at the top of the Avenue Henri Mar- 
tin, which leads to the Exhibition. 

La Nuette — For all the suburb of Passy. 

Auteuil — Of which we have already spoken in our chap- 
ter relating to the races. 

THE METROPOLITAN. 

The Metropolitan will enclose Paris in an immense net, 
whose stitches carefully and slowly fastened will be termin- 
ated, one part on ihe 30th of March, 1906, and the second 
part on the 30th of March, 191 1. On the 15th of June, 
1900, the line specially constructed for the Exhibition will 
be thrown open to Paris and its millions of visitors. 

This line will go from Vincennes, following the whole 
of the Rue de Rivoli, as far as the Place de I'Etoile, and, 
hence taking the shape of a three branches fan, one will 
lead to the Porte Maillot, the second to the Porte Dau- 
phine and the last to the Trocadero. 

The fare will always be the same, whatever the distance 
to travel, viz.: 25 centimes first-class and 15 centimes sec- 
ond-class. As long as the passenger does not leave the 
station (the same rule applies to the American elevated 
railways) he is allowed to take any other train. How- 
ever, by purchasing a ticket for 20 centimes before 9 a. m. 
the holder will be entitled to take, without extra charge, 
any of the afternoon trains going in opposite direction. 

In all the stations the entrance, single or otherwise, is 
situated in the street and leads to a subterranean station, 
where tickets can be purchased and from which it is very 
easy to reach the platforms. 

From Vincennes to I'Etoile the trains run every two min- 
utes and stop at Place of the Nation, Rue de Reuilly (en- 
trance between the streets Rondolet and de Chaligny). 
Gare de Lyon (entrance by the Rue de Chalons), Place of 
the Bastille, Rue Saint-Antoine (entrance at the junction 
of the streets of Rivoli and Saint-Antoine), Place de 
I'Hotel de Ville, at the Louvre (entrance at the corner of 
the Rue de Rivoli, and of the Place Saint-Germain I'Aux- 
errois), at the Palais Royal, at the Tuileries (entrance Pa- 
vilion de Marsan). Place of the Concorde, Avenue Alex- 
rndrc III. (at the corner of the Champs Elysees), Rue 
Marbeuf, Avenue of I'Alma and I'Etoile. 



192 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

Outings and Excursions. 

It is not sufficient to have seen Paris well. Near the 
city there are a number of historic places to which 
agreeable excursions can be made and which strangers 
should visit. 

At the head of the list must be placed Versailles, the 
sumptuous residence of the "Great King," Louis XIV.; a 
part of the palace has been transformed into a museum. 

St. Cloud, Sevres, Versailles, St. (-.ermain, 
Fontainebleau. 

The only practical way to get to Versailles is by the rail- 
road. You will take the Montparnasse station or the St. 
Lazare station, whichever is the more convenient. I have 
supposed until now that you are living on the right bank 
of the river, in which case you should take the St. Lazare 
station. 

To make the excursion to Versailles you should take an 
entire day, leaving by the train at 9.05 (there are others 
at 10.00 or 11.05), and having breakfast at Versailles. 

On arriving at the St. Lazare station, go up in the large 
hall, and on the side opposite the waiting rooms and facing 
it, you will see ticket windows with the sign Billets. 
Above you will see the sign Versailles. Following are the 
prices of tickets to Versailles: 

First-class. Second-class. 

Single ticket i-Sof i.isf 

Return ticket 3 . oof 2 . 3of 

Having secured your ticket, pass through the waiting- 
room, at the door of which you also see the sign Ver- 
sailles (together with the time of departure of your train), 
and, after showing your ticket to the agent, you can go 
and take your place in the train. 

The railroad takes you successively through Clichy, 
Levallois and Asnieres, where you pass the Seine, Becon, 
Courbevoie, Puteaux, Suresnes and St. Cloud. We will 
stop a moment at St. Cloud, if you wish, and take a glance 
at this old imperial park. 

On leaving the station, take the Rue Dailly, built under 
Louis Philippe, which passes before the station itself. 
This street leads up to the little plateau of Montretout, 
where, at the corner of the Rue des TenneroUes, arid on the 
way to Versailles, is the monument erected in memory of 
the heroes who fell there in the famous battle of Montret- 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 93 

out. Continue along the Rue Dailly, which will bring you 
to the big barred gate, the entrance to the Avenue du 
Palais, on the Place d'Armes. 

At your left is the Seine, over which you see the bridge 
which connects St. Cloud with Boulogne, with the res- 
taurant du Pavilion Bleu on the bank. Behind you is the 
restaurant de la Tete Noire. 

You must now follow the Avenue du Palais, on the left 
of which, some distance back, are the barracks of the 
dragoons, until you reach the principal gate of the park; 
if you are in a carriage, you must first buy an entrance 
ticket at the tobacco store in the Place d'Armes. It is at 
the left of this gate that we find all that remains of the 
royal palace. At the right of the gate is the Valois pavil- 
ion, which has been turned into the "Superior Normal 
School of Primary Instruction." There, where now 
stretch terraces, once rose the palace, burned during the 
Commune of 1871, and of which the ruined walls stood un- 
til 1896. Advancing along the terrace to the left, you find 
before you a beautiful view of Paris. At your feet passes 
the avenue which leads to Sevres, where we will take you 
for a moment; for there is nothing to be seen at St. Cloud, 
except the beautiful park, and Sevres being the station after 
St. Cloud on the road to Versailles, we will take this op- 
portunity of saying a word about it. 

SEVRES— The Factory. 

If we stop at Sevres, it is not at all because of the im- 
portance of the pretty town, for, although it contains a 
number of fine villas and is surrounded by beautiful woods. 
it would not merit particular attention were it r ot the seat 
of the most interesting national factory. 

Sevres can be reached by boat, by tramway and by three 
lines of railroad. Once there, ask any one the road to the 
Manufacture, which is near the church. Before leaving 
Pans you should secure, at No. 3 Rue de Valois, an ad- 
mission ticket, given gratuitously, which will permit you to 
.visit the workshops on Monday, Thursday or Saturday, 
and the museum and galleries any day. You should, there- 
fore, choose one of these three days for your visit, so as 
to see the workshops and the museum on one trip. 

The factory of Sevres is in the town of Sevres, at the 
entrance of the park of St. Cloud. On arriving before the 
factory, go up the stairway facing the park, at the foot of 
which is the statue of Bernard Palissy. These stairs lead 
to a vestibule, where you must check your cane or um- 



194 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

brella. There you will find a guide, who, on seeing your 
card, will accompany you on a visit to the workshops. 
First you will be shown how the rough material is pre- 
pared out of which are made the beautiful vases and por- 
celains so fine that they are nearly always the gifts selected 
by France for foreign rulers. A little further on a work- 
man will, before your eyes, "turn" a cup, a saucer, or some 
other piece of porcelain. Then you will watch the work- 
man whose duty it is to strain the paste. Your visit to the 
workshops will be terminated before the furnaces, where 
the products you have just seen manufactured are baked. 
From the workshop you will be conducted to the show and 
sales rooms and the museum, where you can admire the 
final results obtained by the men you have seen at work. 
Give a fee of 15 sous to the guide who accompanied you. 

VERSAILLES. 

On leaving the station you will find in the courtyard a 
number of "cabbies," who will beg the honor of driving 
you. Unless it is your intention to only remain at Ver- 
sailles a very short time, say two hours, I would advise 
you to decline their offers, and to avail yourself, instead, 
of the tramway to be found beyond the station gate, which 
will take you directly to the palace. 

There are three things at Versailles, or rather three 
groups of things, which you must at least see; for to study 
everything carefully one afternoon is hardly sufficient. 
These things are the Palace, the Park and the Trianons. 
We do not pretend here to give complete details on these 
subjects. We limit ourselves to pointing out in a general 
way, as has heretofore been our plan, what should be seen. 
We leave the details of the galleries and the park to those 
better able to speak, and for the benefit of such of our 
readers who can give some time to this visit, we cannot do 
better than recommend the famous guide "Une Journee a 
Versailles" (A Day at Versailles), in which the author, 
M.;. L. Bernard, keeper of the palace, in unpedantic style 
gives complete and practical details in regard to every- 
thing pertaining to Versailles. As for us, we must take a 
more general view. 

The large square, dominated by the palace, is called the 
Place d'Armes. It is reached by the Avenue de Paris, 
on one side of which is the artillery workshop, formerly 
the great stables, and on the other the engineering bar- 
racks, formerly the "little stables." 

You pass through the magnificent gilded gate which 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I95 

separates the outer courtyard from the Place d'Armes. 
This outer courtyard is contained between two buildings 
formerly known as the "wings of the ministers." 

The palace which rises before you has been changed in 
many details by the various governments which have held 
sway since Versailles was the residence of the "Great 
King," Louis XIV. Thus, the sixteen statues stretching 
to right and left along the courtyard were placed there in 
the reign of Louis Philippe; in whose reign also was erect- 
ed the great equestrian statue of Louis XIV. on the site 
of the gate which used to separate the outer court from 
the royal courtyard. 

Having passed the equestrian statue of the "Sun King," 
turn a little to the right and you find yourself in the 
chapel court, by which you can enter the palace. The 
Palais and the Trianons are open every day. except Mon- 
day, from eleven to five o'clock. The gardens are closed 
at nisht. You must leave your cane or umbrella in the 
great antichamber at your right. Having passed the vesti- 
bule you find a stairway at your right which leads to the 
apartments above. The door near the foot of this stair- 
way over which are the numbers 84-93 leads to picture 
alleries 

The stairway leads you to the upper vestibule of the 
chapel, from which you get a full view of it. I particular- 
ly call to your attention the. paintings on the ceiling. 
From there \vc pass through the Salon of Hercules (105), 
which was the great ball-room of the eighteenth century, 
and the "Salon of Abundance" (106). There we enter the 
great apartments of Louis XIV. Passing by the door in 
front of, the window, we find, successively, the salons of 
Venus (107), Diana (108), Mars (109), Mercury (no), 
and Apollo (ni), which, sumptuously furnished and hung 
with tapestries representing the history of Louis XIV., 
once served for the receptions of the court. Each of the 
ceilings represents the divinity which has given his or her 
name to the salon. 

We next find ourselves in the Salon of War (112), which, 
with the Glass Salon and the Salon of Peace, make a suite 
truly marvelous. It was in the famous Glass Salon that 
all the great fetes of the court were given. It was here 
also— sad remembrance!— that the king of Prussia was 
crowned Emperor of Germany; but, in revenge, it wa., 
here, the 8th of October, 1896, while the people were pro- 
claiming the Franco-Russian alliance, that the august 
sovereign .,.f onr friendly neighbor, the Czar Nicolas II., 
was received. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE I97 

You next enter the Cabinet of the King by the glass 
door opening into the Glass Gallery (at the back of which 
are the little apartments of Louis XV.), which must be 
visited with a keeper; then the room where Louis XIV - 
died, irom which we pass into the antichamber where the 
courtiers awaited the rising of the king. This latter room 
on account of an oval window in it, is called the "Anticham- 
ber of the Bull's Eye" (123). Thence we continue our 
visit by way of the Salon of Peace, the chamber of the 
queen, her large private room and the antechamber which 
brings us to the Guards' Room; but I would advise you 
to make this part of your visit on going out; that is when 
you arrive at the Guards' Room by the new way I am 
•?oing to show you. Go back a little to the "Bull's Eye " 
which gives access to the "little apartments" of the queen 
which must be visited with a keeper, to whom you will' 
give eight or ten sous on leaving. Those '-little apart- 
ments can sometimes be entered from the queen's cham- 
ber, Tlie keeper will give you the history of each room 
ind the great events of which they were witnesses. 

On leaving the little apartments we enter the Guards- 
Room, from which the marble stairway, or "Queen's Stair- 
way." lakes you up to the great historical picture rooms 
If you go through to the left in the Glass Salon, you ar- 
rive at :i number of rooms of which the walls are cov- 
ereo with lamous paintings. The last of these rooms are 
the 'Battle Gallery," and the portrait room. 

Outside of the palace proper, at the Princess' court en- 
trance, there are the halls of Congress and the Senate 
(the latter was the old Opera), and the hall of the Jeu de 
Paume (Games). Rue Gambctta. whose walls witnessed 
the oath of the deputies of the Third Estate (Tiers Etat) 
which served as a prelude to the revolution. 

THE PARK AND THE GARDENS. 

The majesty and beauty of the Park of Versailles can 
best be observed from the terrace in front of the palace 
I will not attempt to guide you here. for. outside of the 
palace gardens, which are on the terrace itself a volume 
would be required for the task.. The best thing to do is to 
take a carriage, agreeing on the price in advance, and 
drive about for an hour or an hour and a half throuo-h 
the majestic alleys and the woods. There is one day each 
month which is the best to visit the park, that on which 
all the fountains play. The effect is splendid. On this 
day. however, which is always a Sunday— in summer the 



now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 1 99 

first Sunday of the mouth — the Parisian public, informed 
by advertisements, comes in such numbers that the apart- 
nicuLs of the palace are closed. 

After you have seen the park, drive, or if you are on foot 
it is but a short walk to the Trianons, or chateaux. 

TRIANONS. — The visit to the Trianons must be made 
with a keeper. You will be taken around with ten or 
twenty other people, shown the dififerent rooms and ex- 
plained their former use. There is the Grand Trianon, 
much the more important, and the little, or Petit Trianon, 
the favorite residence of Marie Antoinette, who had a 
little hamlet built there, with a cow-house, where she used 
to ainuse herself with playing at peasant. Between the 
two Trianons is the carriage museum, where all the old 
Stale and court carriages are to be seen, and also that used 
by the Russian Emperor on his trip from Paris to 
Versailles. 

Other excursions in the immediate environs of Paris are 
to St. Germain and to Marly. Each of these places has 
had its hour in history. 



ST. GERMAIN. 

This is cue of the classic excursions near Paris. There 
are several ways of getting there; first, by railroad from 
the St. Lazare station, which will put you down before the 
palace in thirty minutes. There is a good buffet on each 
train. The price of tickets is as follows: 

First-class. Second-class. 

Single ticket t.5of. i.osf. 

Return ticket j.oof. 2.iof. 

The Compagnie de I'Ouest (Western Raiload Com- 
pany) has also a line by way of Marly le Roi, of which we 
speak in the ne.xt paragraph. This trip is very pretty; 
time, one hour and twenty minutes. The price of tickets 
is as follows: 

First-class. Second-class. 

Single ticket i.8of. l.2of. 

Return ticket .3.oof. 2.iof. 

Return tickets are good by one or the other route. There 
is also a steam tramway, which leaves the Arc de Triomphe 
and goes to Bougival by way of Marly. 

Finally, every morning from May to the end of Septem- 
ber, the river boat, le Touriste, leaves the quai d'Orsay 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 20I 

(Orsay whan") and lands passengers at the foot of the ter- 
race of the St. Germain jjalace. Single tickets are 3 francs, 
return tickets 4 francs. Lunch and dinner are served on 
board. 

The principal thing at St. Germain is the excursion 
through the woods. Whichever way you may turn a 
picturesque scene lies before you. The restored i)alace of 
St. Germain contains a number of very interesting national 
antiquities, and from the terrace of the palace a beautiful 
view is obtained. 

MARLY LE ROL 

The means of getting to Marly le Roi are the same as 
those of St. Germain. If you take the boat, however, you 
should get ofif at Port Marly, near Bougival, celebrated for 
its boatmen's ball. Port Marjy and Marly le Roi are realh 
tvvo parts of the same place, one on the Seine and the 
other at the top of the slope. Nothing remains of the 
former palace of Marly, which stood in the midst of the 
magnificent woods. Some ivy-covered stones indicate the 
site. The excursion through the woods should be men- 
tioned again. It is most fascmating, and those who wish 
an hour of repose from the turmoil of Paris will not regret 
looking for it at Marly. 

FONTAINEBLEAU. 

Although hardly in the environs of Paris, the excursion 
to Fontainebleau is sucli a favorite one, both for bicycle en- 
thusiasts as well as those content with the modest rail- 
road, that I must speak of it in this connection. 

Fontamebleau is connected with Paris by the P. L. M. 
Railroad. Express trains take about an hour and a half. 

First-class. Second-class. 

Single tickets 6.6of. 4-45f. 

Return tickets 9-yof. 7-i5f. 

The station at Fontainebleau is about a mile and a half 
from the palace. The best way to get there is to take the 
electric tramway, which is reached by an underground 
passage fron: the slation itself, and which will ])ut you 
down before the palace in twenty minutes. Fare, 30 
centimes. Get off at the Place Solferino. in front of the 
horseshoe stairway: at the top of which Napoleon, about 
to leave in exile, bid farewell to his old guard. 

Between the two arms of this stairway is the public en- 
trance to the palace. The wing to the right hand, which 



202 now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

is not open to the public, contains the apartments of the 
President of the RepubHc. Under the stairway you will 
find a guide, who will take you on the regular tour through 
the palace; fee, 50 centimes. The principal points of in- 
terest are the chapel, the apartments of Napoleon I., the 
apartments of Marie Antoinette, the library and the theatre. 

If, on leaving by the horseshoe stairway, you turn to the 
left under the arch, you find yourself in the Court of the 
Fountain. To your right is the Chinese museum, with the 
fish pond at the end. If you go through the court and 
pass under the arch facing the first one, you find beautiful 
gardens, carefully attended to. Continuing along the side 
of the building, you find a gate, to the left, which opens 
on the road, which, passing between the palace on the left 
and a school on the right, takes you to Place d'Armes, 
where there is a cab-station. The forest is wonderful and 
a drive through it, if you have time, will well repay you. 
Take the route by the Valley of the Sole, Franchard and 
Barbizon; or the coachman will arrange the itinerary ac- 
cording to the time at your disposal. Arrange the price 
of your carriage in advance, and bargain well with your 
coachman. I know of no greater robbers than the coach- 
men of P'ontainebleau. Ofi^er him half what he asks, and 
you will still be robbed. 

I will complete this chapter by a word to bicycle and 
automobile enthusiasts. If you have not a machine, the 
first thing is to know where to procure one — either buying 
or renting it — which won't break down on the road. Here 
are some addressees which may be of service: 

' Gladiator, Boulevard Montmartre, 
RUDGE, Boulevard Haussmann. 

Bicycle and Automobile Excursions. 

PARTS— SAINT CLOUD-VERSAILLES— 
VALLEES DE LA BIEVRE et de CHEVREUSE. 

The daily promenade which calls only for slight exertion 
is to the Bois de Boulogne. This might be said to be the 
■ starting point for all excursions, for the forest of Vin- 
cennes is too far away to be convenient for such a pur- 
pose. From the Bois you can continue your excursion as 
far as Saint-Cloud. 

To do this you go down the river, behind Longchamps, 
and then, coming up stream, always on the right bank, 
you come to the bridge of Saint-Cloud. Keeping straight 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 203 

on and passing Sevres you will come to Bas-Mendon, 
nhere you can breaklast or dine on the banks of the river. 
I'his excursion is delightful about five in the afternoon or 
on a fine morning. 

From the Bois de Boulogne and the Bridge of Suresne 
you can go to Versailles by an agreeable but somewhat 
hilly route, through Montretout. by the heights of Saint- 
Cloud, along the park of the same name and through the 
city of Avray. There are two fine excursions from Ver- 
sailles; the first into the valley of the Bievre. You go 
through the groves, near the station on the left bank and, 
keeping to the right, you go down toward Jouy, cross the 
Bievre, and come back either by the Croix-de-Berny and 
Sceaux or (but this is a longer route) by Choisy-le-Roi 
and Charenton. The second excursion is to the valley 
of Chevreuse; this is longer but a finer one. Near Jouy 
you turn to the right, not far from a large aqueduct, you 
cross the elevated land which separates the Bievre from the 
Yvette and going down to Chevreuse you rest. Then you 
go up the delightful little valley all verdant and wooded, 
you visit Dampierre and you push on as far as Vaux de 
Cernay, picturesque rocky gorges, diminutive representa- 
tions of the Alpine cafions. To return by a different route 
you turn to the left at Dampierre; you pass through la 
Verriere, Trappes, Saint-Cyr and thence to Versailles. 

PARIS — SAINT-GERAIAIN — PONTOISE — MAN- 
TES — ROUEN. 

From the Bois de Boulogne, always our central point, 
take the Bridge of Suresnes, climb the slope; turn to the 
right after you get by the railroad bridge, pass through 
Rueil, Chatou, Ic Vesinet, le Pecq; thence up the hill to 
Saint-Germain. This route, perhaps somewhat hard to trace 
out, is well supplied with guide-posts. Saint-Germain, 
like Versailles, is also a good starting point for excursions, 
whether to be to Poissy and "following the flowery banks 
watered by the Seine" to Mantes, still farther to the pretty 
city of Vernon, farther yet to Rouen, by a diversified route, 
over hills, through valleys, in the midst of deep-shaded 
forests, past charming sites, little villages with artistic sou- 
venirs, like Pont de I'Arche, or whether, turning to the 
right at the entrance to Saint-Germain itself, you cross the 
Loges and the lovely forest in its whole extent to come out 
at Conflans and at the pretty confluence of the Oise. 
Keepmg on your way. you go directly to Pontoise, or, bet- 
ter still, by following the meanderings of the river, then 



204 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

back to Paris by a new and direct route, through Her- 
blay, Enghien, the banks of the Seine and the Bois de 
Boulogne. 

PARIS— CO A'IPIEGNE OR FONTAINEBLEAU. 

The other excursions are long and practicable for auto- 
mobiles only. Paris — Chalons; Paris — Chantilly; Paris — 
Chartres; Paris — Etampes; Paris — Soissons; Paris — 
Troyes; to make them implies covering a goodly number 
of miles. 

There are, however, two very practicable excursions, ofie 
to Compiegne, the other to Fontainebleau. Bicyclists go 
by rail to either of these two cities and thence, branching 
out in all directions, pass an agreeable day or two. 

At Compiegne, after crossing the bridge over the Oise, 
you go straight through the forest as far as Pierrefonds, 
where you may breakfast. You come back, after visiting 
the chateau by the little lakes, .and you will thus have gone 
through the most attractive parts of the forest. At Fon- 
tainebleau the excursions are longer and more varied. To 
visit Barbison, Marlotte, the tower of Denecourt, with its 
beautiful view, the eagle's nest (le nid de I'aigle), the place 
called le gros Fonteau, the rocks and gorges of Franchard. 
the rocks of the Ermites (hermits), the weeping rock (la 
roche qui pleu-re), the gorges of Apremont would require 
a stay of several days, which, for that matter, one would 
never regret. 



r=^|^S — » 



CHAPTER X. 

FASHIONABLE SEASIDE RESORTS 



Those visitors who have- only two or tlirce weeks to 
spend in France will, naturally, give all their time to Paris 
and the Exposition; but those who have come for a long 
Slay will not. in general, desire to stop all the hot season 
in the capital, but will arrange to spend some weeks in the 
fresh air of the seaside resorts. There they will find the 
fashionable society of Paris, which, beginning with the 
month of June, escapes to the seashore to continue the 
pleasures of the winter in the casino-balls and the night 
fetes, not to mention the races, where the men go to see 
the horses and the women to let others see their pretty 
gowns. 

The seaside resorts of Brittany are not much frequented, 
except by tourists and by those who wish to spend their 
vacation economically. It is to the coast of Normandy you 
must go if you wish to be in the fashion. The number of 
these resorts which are considered fashionable is quite 
limited, and in each you will find about the same faces, for 
it IS considered "the thing" to be seen at certain times in 
each these three or four places, these periods being gener- 
ally the race days. 

All four of these fashionable places are situated on the 
net-work of the Compagnie de I'Ouest, which, at the sea- 
son of the seaside excursions, endeavors to make the ac- 
commodations for travel both agreeable and cheap. We 
will speak a little later on of the different methods which 
this company has provided, saving both time and expense 
for the convenience of those who wish to visit the Nor- 
mandy coasl. 

PRACTICAL ADVICE.— I repeat the advice which I 
gave at the beginning of this book, when you were on the 
point of leaving for Paris; namely, to write from Paris five 
or six days in advance to the hotel which you have selected 
at Trouville. Dieppe, Fecamp or Treport; otherwise you 
will run the risk of not being able to secure accommo- 
dations. 



2o6 HOW TO SEE TARIS ALONE 

Take as little baggage as possible, particularly if you in- 
tend to visit several resorts; though a dress-suit for men 
and one or two evening gow^ns for women are indispen- 
sable, for there is much parade of fashion at these resorts, 
and in the evening at the Casino evening dress is in order. 

To save you annoyance with your baggage, the "Com- 
pagnie de I'Ouest, alwaj's solicitous for the comfort of its 
travelers, will take your baggage from your residence the 
day before your departure. 

This service is also attended to by the Duchemin agency. 

THE ST. LAZARE STATION.— The Compagnie de 
rOuest has two stations in Paris; the Montparnasse sta- 
tion, on the left side of the river, which serves all the west 
of France, principally Brittany, and the St. Lazare sta- 
tion, in the heart of the right section of the city, which 
is the place of departure for the fashionable resorts 
mentioned. 

After having ascertained the hour of departure of your 
train in the time-table (a little blue-book; price, 30 cent- 
imes; for sale in all stations, and which should be secured 
for the purpose of learning the various stopping places of 
your train), you should write to M. le Chef du Depot de 
'^avalerie de la Compagnie de I'Ouest, 86 Rue de Rome, 
stating which train you will take and how many are in 
your I any. 

You should arrive at the station half an hour before the 
train leaves in order to get comfortably arranged, and at- 
tend to your baggage. If you have sent your baggage by 
the Duchemin agency, there is no trouble. If your bag- 
gage is carried to the station by the company's carriage 
in which you ride, you should drive to the Havre Court, 
where porters, to whom you should give 4 sous per trunk, 
will put your baggage on hand-carts and roll it to the 
checking room. 

This attended to, inquire for the ticket ofifice. Ask for 
the number of tickets you wish (children under seven years 
old are half price), and be careful to specify whether you 
desire first or second-class. (The first-class tickets are 
biue; second-class brown. Return tickets are divided in 
two parts by a red line.) Having secured your ticket, re- 
turn to your porter and lake from his hand-cart such of 
your baggage as you desire to take in your apartment with 
you. Your trunks will then be weighed, each person being 
allowed to have 30 kg. carried free. You will be given a 
baggage receipt, which states the number of your pieces, 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 20/ 

the weight, and any amount paid. Be very careful of this 
receipt, for you must have it at your destination in order 
to secure your baggage. This done, give your hand pack- 
ages to a porter — paying him a few sous — who will conduct 
you .to your train, where you can put your packages in 
your seatt and then do what you please until you hear the 
traditional. En voiture, s'il vous plait!" (All aboard, if 
you please!) 

PRECAUTION.— Be sure that the train in which you 
Lave taken your place goes directly through to your dts- 
tinauon, or learn if it is necessary to change cars on the 
way; otherwise you will run the risk of finding yourself 
many miles from where you expect. 

FROM PARIS TO TROUVILLE. 

To Trouville, according to the time you wish to remain 
there, the price of tickets is as follows: First-class, 24.65 
francs; second-class, 16.65 francs; return ticket, good for 
ten days, exclusive of the day it is bought, first-class, 
35.85 francs; second-class, 24.15 francs; return ticket, good 
for four days, first-class, 30 francs; second-class, 21.50 
francs. 

As to the hour to leave Paris, following are the different 
trains between Paris, Trouville and Deauville: Fast train, 
r.io p. m.; express trains, 7.55 a. m., 9.45 a. m., 5 p. m., 
6.30 p. m.; ■■half-express," 8.45 a. m; omnibus, slow trains, 
12. |0 a. m., 1.20 p. m., 3.25 p. m., 11. 16 p. m. 

We will not mention the omnibus trains further, as they 
take too long a time, but will confine ourselves to the 
others. For people in a hurry, or those who only intend 
spending two or three days at Trouville, the fast train 
which leaves Paris at i.io p. m., and which has passage 
ways and other conveniences, is the most practical, as it 
arrives at Trouville at 4.52 p. m., which leaves the evening 
free. 

Among the express trains the most agreeable are those 
at 5 p. m. and 6.30 p. m. Dinner is served on these trains, 
and. thanks to the Compagnie des Wagons-lits, the ap- 
pointments of the cars are perfect. These trains are near- 
ly as fast as that at i.io p. m., the 5 p. m. train arriving at 
8.47 and the 6.30 p. m. train at 10.54. On these two trains 
meals are served from Paris to Mantes, from Mantes to 
Conches, or from Perquigny to Trouville. Price of meals 
(wine not included), first-class, 6 francs; second-class, 3.50 
francs; wine is from 2 francs per bottle, or i franc per half 
bottle. 



208 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

ARRIVAL AT TROUVILLE. 

Most of our readers who take this trip will only remain 
at Trouville a few days, two or three weeks at the most, 
and will, therefore, go to the hotel, as the cottages are 
very dear and are not rented for less than a month. 

Following is a list of the best hotels: 

Hotel des Roches Noires, Hotel de Paris, Hotel Bellevue, 
Hotel de la Plage, Hotel Beausejour. 

On arriving at the station you will find cabs and omni- 
buses. The best thing to do is to take the omnibus of the 
hotel which you have selected. The fare is 50 centimes for 
each person, during the day, and 70 centimes from mid- 
night to six o'clock in the morning. You can give your 
baggage ticket to the conductor of the omnibus, who will 
see that your things are immediately forwarded to the 
hotel, thus saving you all trouble. The price of a cab from 
the station to a hotel is 1.50 francs, tip 25 centimes. If 
hired by the hour the price is 3 francs the first hour and 2 
francs for each succeeding hour. From midnight to six 
o'clock in the morning the price is doubled. 

To take you to your hotel your carriage will turn to the 
right from the station and cross a bridge over the 
Tonques, a little river at the mouth of which Trouville is 
situated. You then proceed along the quays to the left 
by the Rue des Bains, which takes you to the heart of the 
town. From the quays you can see the pier and the sea- 
shore to the left. 

Now that you are at your hotel, there only remains to 
mention the pleasures and distractions which await you, 
and the most pleasant walks and drives. 

TROUVILLE-DEAUVILLE.— Although each of the 
names is that of a dififerent beach, yet Trouville-Deauville 
really forms one entity; it is really one town of which the 
two parts are joined by the bridge over the Tonques. 
People of fashion pass from one to the other, and in the 
evening at the Trouville Casino one may find the habi- 
tues of that of Deauville, and vice versa. 

Of the town itself there is not much to be said, as it 
does not contain any monument or curiosity of note, and a 
half-hour's stroll along the shore will make you better 
acquainted than would ten pages of description with the 
fashionable society which is the principal charm at this 
dainty watering place. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 2O9 

PLEASURES AND DISTRACTIONS. 

Among the principal diversions at these resorts is fish- 
ing, which at Trouville has many followers. You may 
hire a fishing boat from one of the many boatmen at Trou- 
ville and go out in the open sea with a fisherman, who 
will take you to the best fishing-grounds, or you may be 
content to drop a line in the river. 

But the leading attraction of Trouville-Deauvile is its 
two Casinos, one at Trouville and the other at Deauville, 
which are the meeting places of fashion, either at the gam- 
ing tables, the ball-room, or in the theatre, where the best 
artists of Paris are to be heard. You can buy a ticket at 
either of these Casinos which permits you to visit the 
various apartments. 

The favorite time with sportsmen to go to Trouville- 
Deauville is the first half of the month of August, when, 
each year, on the Deauville racecourse, our best horses 
come to contend for the rich stakes. At this period the 
Compagnie de I'Ouest sends out a luxurious train, with 
buf¥et, which leaves Paris every morning at 9.25, arriving 
at Deauville at 1.15. After the races, at 5.50, the same train 
goes back to Paris, arriving at 10.02 in the evening. 

During the two weeks of the races pigeon shooting takes 
place in a field beyond the church, and always attracts a 
throng of enthusiasts. 

The excursions about Trouville are as numerous as they 
are varied. The best plan is to hire a carriage and give 
your coachman the route to follow. The hotel will furnish 
you with all information. Make your price with your 
coachman in advance, otherwise, after the fashion of his 
kind in America, he will charge you a lancy price. 
Donkeys are also much in favor at Trouville, and many 
young people prefer a ride on the back of one of these 
sturdy little animals to the more comfortable carriage. 
Following is a list of the principal drives: 

1. To the chateau of Bonneville, returning by way of 
St. Arnoult. To visit the chateau a fee of 50 centimes is 
charged. 

2. The drive along the coast, to Villers, Houlgate and 
Cabourg. 

3. To Hontleur. 

4. To the chateau of Hebertot. 

There are many other pleasant excursions, for this coast 
abounds in ravishing corners. There is also an excursion 



2IO HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

by water, from Trouville to Havre, which is most agreea- 
ble. The boat makes this trip in 45 minutes. The hotel 
will give you information as to the hours of departure and 
the rates. Leaving Trouville-Deauville behind you as you 
make out to sea, you behold a fine picture of the coast, 
with Cabourg and Houlgate in the distance. The steamer 
makes for the St. Adresse pifer, leaving Honfleur and Vil- 
lerville to the right. To the left of the harbor of Havre 
rises the great terrace of the Hotel Frascati, while prom- 
inent among the forest of masts which fills the basin are 
the great smokestacks of the ocean greyhounds. You 
should take advantage of this opportunity to visit the City 
of Havre, which is well worth the while. If you are in a 
hurry you may make this trip on your way back to Paris. 
The best trains to take are those leaving Havre at 6.45 p. 
m. and 8.15 a. m. If you wish to make this trip from 
Paris, these two trains, which are very well equipped, 
leave there at 8.15 a. m. and 6.52 p. m. These two trains 
have state and dining cars. 

And now let us visit the youngest sister of the queen of 
seaside resorts, Dieppe. 

I shall not repeat the information given at the beginning 
of this chapter, but will limit myself to mentioning the 
trains which go to this enchanting watering place. 

You may go to Dieppe by either of two lines, one by 
way of Pontoise, the other by way of Rouen; but as the 
Pontoise line has only "omnibus" trains, I would advise 
\ou to take the Rouen route. The latter trains stop a she i-t 
time at Rouen, which permits you to refresh yourself at the 
excellent buffet. 

Fast trains: 1.25 p. m., arriving 4.49 p. m., and 8.10 a. m., 
arriving 11. 4 a. m. 

Express trains: 8.15 a. m., arriving 12.4 p. m., and 9 p. 
m., arriving 12.23 P- ™- 

Through trains leave at 11.35 P- ™-, and 5.18 a. m. 

Rates: Single tickets, first-class, 18.80 fr., second-class, 
12,70 fr. ; return tickets, good 4 days, first-class, 26 fr., sec- 
ond-class, 17.50 fr. ; return tickets, good 10 days, first- 
class, 30.10 fr., second-class, 20.30 fr. 

ARRIVING AT DIEPPE. 

Following are the best hotels: 

On the beach — Hotel Royal, Hotel Metropole et des Bains, 
Hotel du Rhin et de Newhaven, Hotel des Etrangers, 
Grand Hotel. In the town — Grand Hotel de la Gare, 
Hotel du Commerce. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 211 

At the station yuu will tind hotel omnibuses, fare 30 cen- 
times, or cabs at 1.25 iv. the "course" and 1.75 fr. by the 
hour, tip not included. 

Dieppe is a delightful and very popular seaside resort, 
and is also a charming place to stop over a few days on 
your way from London, for Dieppe is the French port of 
the New Haven line. 

There is a celebrated Casino at Dieppe, but it is the race- 
course which particularly attracts the crowd. On race days 
a finely-appointed train leaves Paris at g.55 a. m., arriving 
at Dieppe at 1.31 p. m.; returning, leaves Dieppe at 5.30 
p. m., and arrives at Paris at 9.10 p. m. 

The most interesting drives about Dieppe are to Le 
Pollet, Arques, Puys, Pourvillc, Varengeville, Berneval, 
St. Valery and St. Aubin. 

A little further on are Fecamp and Treport, but as these 
are themselves well-known resorts, I will speak of them 
more particularly. 

LE TREPORT 

To go to Treport you have your choice of two lines, 
either by the St. Lazare station, which we already know, 
or the Northern station — Gare du Nord. 

Following are the trains on each line: 

wi\ LAZARE STATION: 

11.35 p.m. Dieppe 5.18a. m. Treport Mers 8.24a. m. 

1 1.30 a. m. . 4.34 p. m. 6.22 p. m. 

12.55 p. m. 6.55 p. m. 9.3 p. m. 

Rates: First-class 22.85 fr., second-class 15.40 fr. 

GARE DU NORD: 

Express 7.5 p. m., with dining car, arriving 10.33 P- ni- 
"Half-express," 10.23 p. m., arriving 5.20 a. m. 
"Half-express." 1.25 p. m., arriving 8.31 p. m. 
Omnibus trains, 11. 10 p. m., arriving 8.59 a. m., and 5.45 

a. m., arriving 1.25 p. m. 
Rates: First-class 20.50 fr., second-class 13.85 fr. 
On arriving at the station at Treport you will find om- 
nibuses which will take you either to Treport or to Mers, 
The station is between these two resorts, which are twins, 
as it were, and each is equally popular. Following are the 
best hotels: 

Gr.-'.nd Hotel de France, des Bains, de la Plage; in town, 
Hotel de Calais, Hotel du Commerce, Hotel Terminus. 



212 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

At both Treport and Mers there is a Casino and a 
bathing-beach, perfectly appointed. The excursions are nu- 
merous and varied. Carriages and donkeys are the means 
of transportation. I particularly mention the Chateau 
d'Ku, half hour from Treport; the property of the Orleans 
family and the residence for a long time of the Count of 
Paris. It can only be visited under special permit. 

FECAMP. 

On the opposite side there is another fashionable resort, 
Fecamp, on the western line — Chemin de fer de I'Ouest. 
Trains leaving Paris: 

Express — 8.15 a. m., arriving 12.52 p. m.; 1.25 p. m., 
arriving 5.13 p. m.; 6.52 p. m., arriving 11.20 
p. m., and 11.3S p. m., arriving 5.10 a. m. 

Omnibus — 12.35 a- ™-, arriving 8 a. m. ; 8.20 a. m., ar- 
riving 2.46 p. m.; 12.55 P- ni., arriving 7.5 
p. m. M 

Rates: First-class 24.85 fr., second-class 16.80 fr. ; return, 
4 day tickets, first-class 30 fr., second-class 21.50 fr. ; return, 
10 day tickets, first-class 35.85 fr., second-class 24.15 fr. 

On arriving at Fecamp, which is a very pretty resort, 
with casino, baths, etc., you will find at the station omni- 
buses from the principal hotels, which are as follows: 

Grand Hotel des Bains, de la Plage, d'Angleterre ; in 
the town: Hotel du Chariot d'Or, Ho: el Canchy. 

There is a tramway running between the casino and the 
valleys at the end of the town. The cliffs are very pic- 
turesque, and many little summer-houses are built among 
them. 

You must not miss visiting while at Fecamp the distil- 
lery of the Benedictine Brothers, which is in the town 
itself, where the famous liqueur which bears their name 
is made. You cart buy a ticket for 5 sous at the abbey. 

All the coast hereabout is filled with little resorts to 
which you can make excursions and picnics. For this pur- 
pose you have only to hire a carriage — agreeing on the 
price in advance. 

In connection with this summary description, we add, as 
follows, a list of excursions gotten up by the Compagnie 
de rOuest at reduced rates. 

Thee is to be found at Mers, as at the Treport, a casiro 
and a beach perfectly fitted up ; excursions there are 
numerous and of various characters, for which carriages or 
donkeys' backs are used. 



now TO SEE r-ARIS ALONE 2I3 

Ex:oxJI^SI02s^s 

On. the Coasts of Normandy, Britaiiny and the 
Island of Jersey. 



Roundtrip Tickets available for One Month exclusive of the day 

of departure. 

l-isued from May 1st till October 31st, with optional stops at 

all the iatermediate Stations.* 



* The time for which these tickets are availablt can be extended by One 
Month on payment of a supplementary charge of 10 per cent. 

t The i^t, 2iid, 3d, 6th, 7th and nth Itineraries g've the passenger the 
Ojjiion, fiom the ist of June to the 30th of September, to make the crossing 
between Koien and Havre, in one direction, in one of the boats of the Company 
(it t)mnibiis Boats of Rouen, -without extra Charge 

J Lamballe or Saint-Brieuc on supplementary charge. 



FIRST ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 50 Francs. — 2nd Class : 40 Francs. 

J'aiis ^ Rouen, Havre, by Rail. 

Les Andelys ^- 

Louviers ) or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t 

Fecamp, Etretat, Saint-Valery-en-Caux, Dieppe, Le Treport- 
Mers, Arques-la-Bataille, Gisors, Paris. 

SECOND ITINERARY. 

Ist Class: 50 Francs. — 2nd Class: 40 Francs. 

I'aris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Cony, St-Valery- 

en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail, 

Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t 
HonfleurorTrouville-Deauville,Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- 

gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Paris. 

THIRD ITINERARY. 

1st Class: 70 Francs. — 2nd Class: 55 Francs. 

Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Saint- 
Valery en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail. 
Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t 

Honfleur or Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- 
gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur Mer, Cherbourg, Paris. 

FOURTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class: 80 Francs. — 2nd Class: 60 Francs. 

Paris, Briouze, Bagnoles, Tesse-la- Madeleine, Granville, Avran- 
ches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Para- 
me), Diiiard, Dinan,t Rennes, Vitr^, Fougeres, Le Mans, 
Paris. 



214 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

FIFTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 90 Francs. — 2nd Class : 70 Francs. 

Paris, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carteret, 
Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint- Michel, Saint- Malo, 
Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan,t Rennes, Vitr^, Fou- 
geres, Le Mans, Chartres, Paris. 

SIXTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 90 Francs. — 2nd Class : 70 Francs. 

Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Cany, 
Saint-Valery-en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail. 
Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t 

Honfleur or Trouville-Deauville,Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- 
gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint- 
Lo or Carteret, Granville, Bagnoles-Tess^-la-Madeleine, 
Briouze, Paris. 

SEVENTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 105 Francs. — 2nd Class : 90 Francs. 

Paris, Les Andelys, Louviers, Rouen, Dieppe, Rouen, Cany, 
Saint Valery-en-Caux, Fecamp, Etretat, Havre, by Rail. 
Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t 
Honfleur or Trouville-Deauville, Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- 
\ gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Saint-Lo or Car- 
teret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, 
Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan,t Rennes, Vitre, Fou- 
g^res, Le Mans, Paris. 

EIGHTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 105 Francs. — 2nd Class : 90 Francs. 

Paris, Briouze, Bagnoles-Tesse la-Madeleine, Granville, Avran- 
ches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Pa- 
rame), Dinard, Dinan, Saint-Brieuc, Paimpol, Lannion, Mor- 
laix, Roscoff, Carhaix, Brest, Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le 
Mans, Paris. 

NINTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 105 Francs. — 2nd Class : loo Francs. 

Paris, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carteret, 
Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, 
Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan, Saint-Brieuc, Paimpol, 
Lannion, Morlaix, Roscoff, Carhaix, Brest, Rennes, Vitr6, 
Fougeres, Le Maiis, Paris. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 21$ 

TENTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : lOO Francs. — 2nd Class : So Francs. 

Le Mans, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carte- 
ret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint-Michel, Saint Malo, 
Saint-Servan (Parame), Dinard, Dinan, Saint-Brieuc, Saint-Pol, 
Lannion, Morlaix, Roscoff, Carhaix, Brest, Rennes, Vitre, 
Fougeres, Le Mans. 

ELEVENTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : loo Francs. — 2nd Class : So Francs. 

Rouen, Cany, Saint-Valery en-Caux, Fecamp, Havre, by Rail, 

Or Rouen, Havre, by Steamer. t 

Ilonfleur or Trouville-Deauville,Villers-sur-Mer, Beuzeval (Houl- 

gate), Dives-Cabourg, Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, 

' Saint-Lo or Carteret, Granville, Avranches, Le Mont Saint 

Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Parame), Dinard, Dinan, t 

Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le Mans, Lisieux, Rouen. 

TWELFTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class: 6o Francs. — 2nd Class: 50 Francs. 

Angers (Saint-Serge), or Nantes (State), or Saint-Nazaire, or 
Redon, Chateaubriant, Vitre, Le Mont Saint- Michel, Granville, 
Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Param^), Dinard, Dinan, Saint- 
Brieuc, Rennes, Chateaubriant, Angers (Saint-Serge), or 
Nantes (State), or Saint-Nazaire, or Redon. 

THIRTEENTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class : 91 Francs. — 2nd Class : 71 Francs. 

Paris, Briouze, Bagnoles-Tess6-la- Madeleine, Granville, Jersey 
(Saint-Helier), Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Parame), Le Mont 
Saint-Michel, Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan, Dinard, Dinan, Saint- 
Brieuc, Rennes, Vitre, Fougeres, Le Mans, Paris. 

FOURTEENTH ITINERARY. 

1st Class: 71 Francs.— 2nd Class: 56 Francs. 

Caen, Isigny-sur-Mer, Cherbourg, Saint-Lo or Carteret, Gran- 
ville, Jersey (Saint-Holier), Saint-Malo, Saint-Servan (Para- 
me), Dinard, Dinan, t Le Mont Saint-Michel, Dol, Rennes, 
Laval, Vitre, Fougeres, Caen. 



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2l8 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

FROM PARIS 

to Stations belonging: to the system of the Orleans 
Liae, as described hereafter. 



ROUND TRIP TICKETS, 

available for 33 days exclusive of tlie day of departure. 



FROM PARIS (Saint-Lazare, Montparnasse and Austerlitz) 
to Stations as below : 

Prices of Tickets. 
ist Cla. 2nd Cla. 

Saint-Nazaire 59-7° 40.30 

Pornichet (Sainte- Marguerite) 61.25 41 J^5 

Escoublac-la-Baule 61.80 42.25 

Le Pouliguen 62.20 42,60 

Batz 62.75 42.95 

Le Croisic , 63.20 43.15 

Guerande 62.65 42.85 

Vannes, Port-Navalo, Saint-Gildas de Ruiz. 62.90 42.85 

Plouharnel-Carnac 67.20 46.05 

Saint-Pierre-Quiberon 68.50 47.00 

Quiberon 69.05 47.40 

Le Palais (Belle-Ileen-Mer) 72.05 5040 

Lorient (Port- Louis) 70.15 48.20 

Quimperl6 (Le Poul du) 72.85 50.15 

Concarneau 7^-25 54 'O 

Quimper (Benodet, Fouesnant, Beg-Meil. .. 78.90 54-55 

Pont-1'Abbe (Langoz, Loctudy) 81.70 56.65 

Douarnenez 81.95 56.80 

Chateaulin (Pentrey, Crozon, Morgat) 82.90 4745 



FROM PARIS (Saint-Lazare and Montparnasse). 

To Seaside Stations belonging to the System of the State Line 
as described hereafter. 

Round Trip Tickets available for 33 days (the day of issue not 
included). 

I. Tickets do not give the right to break the journey at inter- 
mediate Stations. 

ist Cla. 2nd Cla. 3d Cla. 
Challans (He de Noirmoutier, He d'Yeu, 

Saint- Jean-de-Monts) ._ .^.. 63.35 44-65 31.35 

Fromentine (He de Noirmoutier, He 

d'Yeu) 06.80 48.10 33.95 

Bourgneuf (He de Noirmoutier) 5^50 42.90 3010 

Les Moutiers 5850 43.30 30. Jo 

La Bernerie 58.50 4355 3060 

Pornic 5^-^P 44-3° 3I-I5 

Saint-P^re-en-Retz (St-Br^vin-1'Ocean).. 58.50 43-30 30.65 

P.iimboeuf 59.05 43.30 30.80 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 219 

2. Tickets give the right to break the journey at the inter- 
mediate Stations between Saint-Pazanne inclusive and the cross 
Stations described as below : 

Challans (He de Noirmoutier, He d'Yeu, 

Saint-Jean-de-Monts 71-35 So-^S 35-35 

Fromentine (He de Noirmoutier, He 

d'Yeu 74-8o 54 10 35.95 

Bourgneuf (He de Noirmoutier) 66.50 48.90 34.10 

Les Moutiers 66.50 49.30 34.40 

La Bernerie 66.50 4955 3460 

Pornic • 66.80 50.30 35.15 

Saint-Pere-en-Retz(St-Brevin-l'0c6an).. 66.50 49.3° 34-65 

Paimbceuf (Saint-Brevin-l'Ocean) 67.05 49.30 34.80 



WATERIxNG PLACES. 

To be complete, without, however, tiring the attention of 
our readers, we cannot do otherwise than to point out the 
custom which draws in ceriam watering places the greater 
part of the Parisians. There are three of them which we 
cannot omit to mention; they are: Aix-les-Bains, La Bour- 
boule and most specially Vichy. 

This last watering place draws more particularly a great 
number of visitors, invalids or otherwise, Parisians more 
or less tired by the constant tohu-bohu and turmoil of the 
Great City. A consultation before their departure or the 
necessary advice and cares during their stay in Paris are 
for every one of them things of absolute necessity. 

The person the most qualified to advise or attend you 
is by far the Doctor Monnet, renowned specialist for skin 
diseases and stomach disorders. His consulting office is 
situated 16 Boulevard Saint-Germain. His consulting days 
are Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from 2 to 4 p. m., 
and any other days by appointment. 

This Doctor of great repute has written on the special 
subjects which he treats with so much skill a book, very 
nnich appreciated by all. called SKIN AND STOMACH, 
which will be sent to you carriage paid for i franc. Per- 
sons suffering from those complaints and wishing to be 
attended to in Paris can be received at a private hospital 
under the direct supervision of Doctor Monnet himself, 
who is always most attentive to the welfare of his patients. 






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CHAPTER XI. 



THE SOUTH OF FRANCE AND ALGERIA. 



For those who wish in coming to France to get a com- 
plete idea of the divers aspects and the divers climates of 
our beautiful country, this book would be incomplete if il 
did not contain some pages on that Eden of perpetual 
summer called the South of France. It could not be too 
strongly recommended to travelers from abroad not to 
leave France without passing some days at Nice and at 
Monte Carlo. The season in the South begins in Octo- 
ber and ends in April. As to those who wish to be at 
Paris from the time of the opening of the Exposition I 
would suggest to them to make a voyage along the shores 
of the Mediterranean. For those, on the other hand, who 
stay in our midst up to the closing of the doors of the 
Exposition, I would suggest before the return home that 
thej^ pass several days along la Corniche, inhaling its fra- 
grant odors. For that matter, all these exhortations are, 
I doubt not, useless, for the foreigner has no need of being 
informed as to the pleasures that are to be found along the 
shores of the Mediterranean. There is one name that is 
stronger than all the arguments that I could devise to de- 
cide the traveler upon this delightful little voyage: Monte 
Carlo, Monaco. These names, well known in all coun- 
tries, inspire in some minds cupidity; in others curiosity, 
but all wish to see this magnificent palace, built up with 
marvelous decorations and where gold is so liberally han- 
dled. The best plan is to leave by the seven o'cock morn- 
ing train. This is the most convenient and most agreeable 
one. We give the hours of departure of the principal trains 
and their chief stopping places. This train draws, besides 
its first class carriages, a number of sleeping coaches and 
parlor coaches; besides this a dining car is attached to 
most of the trains, where a very good breakfast or dinner 
may be had for five or six francs. I would especially 
recommend to carry in your pocket one of those little 
books of Chaix's; they contain a quantity of information 
on the hours of the leaving of trains, rates of fares, etc. 
"I need not repeat here the general suggestions which were 
given at the beginning of this book, either or^ the subject 



222 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

of the baggage or the passage tickets, nor yet on the 
general subject of traveling. Traveling is always the 
same thing; it is only the carriage that changes. Here 
are some of the stations which you will pass through: 
First, Fontainebleau, of which we have already spoken 
on page 201 ; then Joigny, Tonnere, and finally, here we 
are at Dijon. This is the capital of the ancient Province 
of Burgundy. It is a city with a large commerce; as it 
is not an especially gay place, I would not suggest to you 
to stop there. After Dijon come Beaume, Macon, theTi 
Lyons. Now, if you have the time, take a look at this 
enormous beehive, which is certainly worth a visit of 
three or four hours. After Lyons .we pass through Val- 
ence, Montelimar, Avignon, Aries and then Marseilles. 
Here you might stop for a time, but, if you please, I shall 
give you, a little further along, the details concerning Mar- 
seilles, and when we shall have made the trip through the 
cities that line the shore, Nice, Menton, Cannes, for I pro- 
pose to lead you back to Marseilles and to embark you 
there for a journey of twenty-four hours. 

CANNES, NICE, MENTON, MONACO.* 

It is at Marseilles that the line of the Mediterranean 
coast begins to unroll itself. However, with the exception 
of Ciotat, an agreeable little city which you will see on the 
right, in the midst of some olive trees, looking a little 
bare as yet, and in a tract of country which will recall to 
your mind the outskirts of the great city of the Phoceans, 
and excepting the important city of Toulon, which ofifers 
with its port, its roadstead, its Arsenal, a series of drives 
of a peculiar charm, the railway traverses a country which 
will seem to you perhaps at first barren, mountainous, dry 
and disappointing, and but little in accord with the idea 
which you will have formed of this country as you have 
seen it described. Have patience, after having followed 
along the mountains of the Moors, the train will take you 
to a point on the shore which deserves your attention. It 
is at Frejus that you will be surprised by your first glimpse 
of the blue sea, and following all the windings of the hilly 
but charming coast, crossing the wild banks of the Es- 
terel,with its tufts of wood so long frequented by brigands, 
you will have at every moment unexpected glimpses of the 
azure of the Mediterranean, and if the weather be fine it 



*For the rates of fare and the hours of leaving for 
Nice and Italy, see page 220. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



223 



will draw from you exclamations of admiration. The view 
remains the same as far as Theoule. Soon after that you 
reach Cannes itself, the rival of Nice. Situated between 
two promment points, that of old Cannes, so picturesque 
on the one side, that of the point of Croizette on the other' 
backed up to the north by high hills, the California, with 
Its horizon intercepted in the south by the Lerins Islands 
(Samte-Marguerite, with its Fort; Saint-Honorat, with 
Its Convent), on the west by the outline quite pronounced 
01 the mountains of the Esterel, far away, behind which 
the sun brings out for you at his setting brilliant effects of 
light quite unexpectedly, this pretty city of Cannes cer- 
tainly deserves more than a visit; it deserves a residence 
here. Luxurious villas of all sorts, in all styles, the most 
fantastic and the most grotesque abound here. All the 
great names are written here. You will see these villas in 
ime on the heights of the coast of the Croix des Gardes 
and behind old Cannes. Those along the road to Napoule 
are the oldest, and rising one above another from the new 
city and Croizette upon California, are the most recently 
built ones. There are many lovely drives and excursions 
about Cannes; to Cannes along the Grand Boulevard, 
which leads thither direct from the mairie; a longer one 
to Grasse, on the mountain now, after having crossed 
those large fields of flowers which serve for the dis- 
tillation of the perfumery of which the City of Grasse is a 
centre of manufacture; still further away in the moun- 
tains, to the Saut du Lomp (Wolf's Leap). On the other 
side of Cannes the most attractive drive is that which 
takes you along the Gulf of Juan, the lower slopes of Val- 
lauris, covered with orange and lemon trees, blossoming 
with fields of roses and violets, with here and there groves 
of olive trees as far as Cape Antibes, and even Antibes it- 
self, a little old city, the last trace of those fortified bas- 
tions which used to defend the shore. At Cannes you 
will take the train again for Nice. There you will arrive 
in a large city, delightfully located, in the form of an 
amphitheatre on the slopes of hills which are themselves 
backed up by a still loftier girdle of the last end of the 
Alps. In order to get a look at this landscape, which is 
unique, it is only necessary to climb up on the terrace of 
the chateau. There you can enjoy the magnificent pano- 
rama and get a view of that harbor which will at once 
show you the attraction which the Queen of the South 
exercises upon French and foreigners alike. If you wish to 
reach the sea at once, as you come out of the railway sta- 
tion, take the avenue of the Station, cross the city, the 



224 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

Place Massena and Place Charles-Albert, and you will 
soon come to the celebrated promenade des Anglais, bor- 
dered by palm trees, and which follows the contour of the 
Bay of Nice. If you cross the Paillon, a torrent often dry, 
sometimes threatening, but arched over at its mouth, you 
will traverse the Boulevard du Midi, which is an exten- 
sion of the Promenade des Anglais. The hotels are nu- 
merous. Let us mention some: The Grand Hotel Angle- 
terre, the Hotel de France, both of them looking out over 
the, sea; the Cosmopolitan, the Hotel of the lies Britan- 
niques, and the Monopole, more modest. The tariff for 
carriages is: For one horse with two -seats, 75 centimes a 
trip by day, and i franc 25 centimes by night. By the 
hour, 2 francs and 2/2 francs. Without the limits of the 
Octroi, 3 francs and 3^ francs; four passengers, the trip, 
I franc and 1^2 francs; by the hour, 2^/2 francs and 3 francs. 
Outside the limits of the Octroi, Z'/^ and 4 francs. For 
two horses, i franc 50 and 2 francs 50; by the hour, 3 
francs 50 and 4 francs. Without the Octroi, 4 francs 50 
and 5 francs. Luggage, 25 centimes each piece. The 
greatest life and animation at Nice are at the time of the 
Carnival, which lasts for eight days, and which enjoys a 
reputation comparable to that of the Carnival of Venice 
in days gone by. The Veglione, the Festival of Flowers, 
and the Battle of Confetti are known everywhere for their 
life and brilliancy. But during the rest of the season at- 
tractions succeed one another as well at the Casino as at 
the Grand Theatre, on the Promenade of the Jette and at 
the Municipal Theatre. Spectacles of all sorts have given 
Nice a well deserved reputation as a gay city, and it is in 
this that she is especially distinguished from her rival, 
Cannes. The promenades within the city are interesting 
because of their varied and their curious aspect. The old 
city deserves a visit with its scarped and picturesque 
streets, narrow and winding, which the sun never shines 
in and where the passage of carriages is not possible. The 
excursions are numerous and varied: to the Observatory, 
the dome of which can be seen from a distance, standing 
out in relief upon Mont-Gros; to Cimiez; to the Garden 
of Zoology: to the Vallon of the Flowers; to the Valley 
of the Paillon. The finest excursion is that which will 
take us to that crown of the Mediterranean, Monaco and 
Monte Carlo. The railway, of course, would take you 
there in less than half an hour, but let us take the longest 
route;" it is more agreeable and is delightful. Passing 
above the Port of Nice we turn around the Cape of Mount 
Boron by the route of the new Corniche, parallel to the 



now TO SEE I'AKIS ALONE 225 

old one, but following all the windings of the coast in- 
stead of wandering off into the mountains, we go along 
the shore of the deep bay of Villefranche, we cross Beau"^ 
lieu and its long line of gay, new villas, Eze and many 
spots sought out -by quiet visitors, and soon, from the 
summit of the sharp peak, with its abrupt cliffs, we see 
m the distance, as it were in the midst of the sea, old Mo- 
naco. Monaco, Condamine, Monte Carlo— these three 
cities make up this celebrated Principality. Hotel Beau- 
site, at Monaco; Hotel of Condamine, at Condamine, and 
the Hotel of Paris, at Monte Carlo. The price of a car- 
riage is a franc and a half for a trip, and three francs an 
hour. Monaco is interesting by reason of its picturesque 
location on a rugged rock, by its curious aspect of a 
dimmutive but complete capitol, with its palace with a 
long facade, its handsome court of honor, its museum, 
and especially its gardens. The visitor goes from '-urprise 
to surprise, admirmg at his arrival the brilliant parterres, 
then going dov/n gradually by attractive walks past over- 
hanging masses, Babylonian terraces which grow as large 
as small trees, giant geraniums always in bloom, with the 
unforgettable blue sea, spotted white here and there by the 
I'ight of gulls, as a horizon. Monte Carlo is a different 
place; it is a triumph of the hand of man which has con- 
trived to shape the natural form of this lovely country and 
make of it, in an appropriate architectural frame, a worldly 
place of reunion, the most marvelous ever seen. In less 
than twenty years these villas, these superb gardens and 
this magnificent Casino have been built. The facade of 
this latter, the work of Gamier, as is also the Hall of 
Festivals, is the most artistic part of the Casino. En- 
chanted gardens with grottoes and exotic plants sur- 
round it on three sides, and in front magnificent ter- 
races reach down to the sea. Trap shooting for pigeons 
takes up a part of it. In the interior, a fine atrium opens 
between the theatre and the hall for play. The theatre re- 
calls, by the luxury of its sculptures and its gildings, the 
Opera House at Paris. It has an excellent auditorium, 
where spectacles are given that are celebrated by reason 
of the well known artists who assist at them. The hall for 
play, the chief attraction, opens out on the other side. It 
IS a long series of roulette tables one after another, usually 
thronged with people very much pre-occupied, and the 
foreigner who enters there for the first time stops a mo- 
ment, deafened by the sound of the pieces of gold and 
silver handled in piles without res.t orpity. The most at- 
tractive promenade is from Monte Carlo to Menton. 



220 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

This is a city of ten thousand people, whose villas have 
been largely added to by the demands of a constantly 
increasing number of sick or of people who seek a shel- 
tered abode in a climate exceptionally mild and with 
quiet surroundings. A few of the hotels are: Alexandra, 
the Ambassadeurs, Paris, Beilick. The price of carriage 
is: For one horse, i franc the trip and two francs and a 
half the hour; two horses, ojie franc 50 the trip and 3 
francs 75 the hour. The old city, with its picturesque 
quarters, is curious; the new is formed by a street two 
miles long which follows the shore of two bays, and along 
the base of the promontory upon which the old city is 
built. Your promenade will take you to the Hotel de 
Ville, to the Gate Saint-Julien, a relic of the feudal fortifi- 
cations, to the Place of the Church, where the view is 
very fine; to the cemetery, where you ought to go to enjoy 
the magnificent views which it gives to the city and its 
environs, and to admire the monuments which are there; 
to the Public Garden, planted with fine palm trees and 
with exotic plants, and having also a lovely view. What 
makes the charm of Menton are the near-by drives in the 
surroundings valleys, their variety and their beauty. The 
smallest pathway can be taken in all security; it will al- 
ways bring you to some picturesque spot either among the 
lemon trees, the wealth of the country, or into those large 
groves of olive trees, the glory of Menton, where they 
grow to the size of our large trees in the North. There are 
also numerous excursions: let us mention that to the 
Bridge Saint-Louis, throw:n across a wild ravine, and 
further along to Cape Martin (three hours to go and re- 
turn), to the Annonciade (two hours), to the Valley of the 
Primeveres and to the chestnut trees (three hours), to 
Saint-Agnes (five or six hours), and also to Vintimiglia, 
Bordighera, San Remo, which winds up our tour and lets 
us go back to Marseilles. Few are they who go as far as 
Nice without stopping at Marseilles to make an excur- 
sion into Algeria. To be able to say that one has been 
in Africa is a great deal, and then the trip is so lovely, 
the arrival is so picturesque! All those white houses on 
which the sun glances; and in the streets of Algiers, those 
Arabs clad in their large burnous; the veiled women, with 
their, curious costumes— all this is well calculated to pro- 
voke the curiosity of the traveler. The only company 
which maintains a line between Algeria and France is the 
Compagnie Generate Transatlantique, or at least it is the 
only one v/orth mentioning; its service is so superior to 
all others in respect to speed and comfort. 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 22/ 

ARRIVAL AT MARSEILLES. 

You come in at Marseilles by the Station Saint-Charles; 
at the door will be found omnibuses of the principal hotels 
of the city and also private carriages; but in the station 
itself you will find the magnificent hotel called the Ter- 
minus Hotel, built by the Compagnie Paris-Lyon-Medi- 
terranee. If you do not select the Terminus Hotel, the 
best thing to do is to choose among the hotels men- 
tioned below and take the omnibus of that hotel. In any 
case, here are the prices of the private carriages within 
the city limits from six in the morning until ten at night: 
One-horse carriages, i franc the trip; by the hour, 2 francs 
to 2^4; from ten o'clock at night to six in the morning, Yz 
franc more; baggage 25 and 50 centimes the piece. List 
of the principal hotels: Hotel de Nouailles, Grand Hotel 
du Louvre et de la Paix, Grand Hotel des Deux-Mondes. 
Grand Hotel de la Poste. 

The principal part of Marseilles made forever celebrated 
by Daudet, is the Cannebiere. It is from there that all 
the drives start, and so from there I shall tell you to start 
in your carriage to go to the Place Saint-Michel, the Cours 
Julien, the Place of the Prefecture, the Place of Paradis, 
and the Palace of Justice. The Palace of Justice is worth 
a visit, which need not be a long one; then go up by the 
elevators for 30 centimes to Notre Dame de la Garde. 
This church has a very handsaaaie crypt, and the interior 
is interesting because of its numerous votive offerings in 
the form of small vessels, fishing barks and marine pic- 
tures. From the summit of the steeple you can get a very 
line view of the landscape which stretches out at your feet. 
Ask your cabby to drive you to the Abbey Saint- Victor, 
whose subterranean galleries are very interesting. Take 
a look at the Prado, and, if you can, make another visit 
to the Corniche, the same as that which we have al- 
ready traversed at Menton and at Monaco. If you still 
have time you might make an excursion to the Chateau 
of If, so celebrated since the time when Alexandre Dumas 
laid there the scene of his romance, "Monte Cristo." 

AMUSEMENTS AT MARSEILLES. 

Among the first is the Grand Theatre, so often men- 
tioned in the theatrical journals; by its side are a number 
of concert halls, small theatres which your hotel keeper 
will tell you about. I shall not omit mention of the Zoolog- 
ical Garden and the Chateau d'Eau, called also Palace of 



228 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 



the Arts, which Marseilles points out with such pride to all 
her visitors. And now for the excursion to Algeria. 
Whether you stay in Marseilles one hour or two days 
there are always the same formalities to be gone through 
with — that is to say, procure your passage-ticket at the 
Agency of the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, or, if 
you have already got it and came in by the special tram 
which leaves Paris at 10.20 in the evening, get it stamped 
at the same Agency, No. 9 quay of the Joliette. 

If you come direct from Paris to embark at 1.30 in the 
afternoon, it will be necessary for you to have procured 
your ticket there at the office, 12 Boulevard of the Ca- 
pucines; and then, on your arrival at Marseilles, you 
take a carriage at the station which will land you on the 
quay of the Joliette, where your ticket can be stamped 
and your baggage registered. If you did not buy a ticket 
in Paris, and if you made the trip along the shore first, 
here are the principal addresses of the Agencies of the 
Compagnie Transatlantique along the Mediterranean 
coasi: 

Nice, quai Massena: Compagnie Internationale des 
Wagons-Lits. 

Cannes, quai Saint-Pierre: Carlavan. 

Hyeres, avenue de la Gare: Crivelli. 

Toulon, quai Cronstadt: A. Bernard. 

I am only going to describe here the excursion to Al- 
giers itself, for Algiers is the principal point of landing 
for tourists. It must, however, be remembered that Al- 
geria has other cities, Tunis, Bobe, Philippeville, which 
are also worth the short voyage which it takes to see 
them. Here is a table which shows the railroads which 
take you along the shore from Tunis to Algiers or vice 
versa, and the hours of departure of the different trains 
and also the different lines of the Compagnie Generale 
Transatlantique, which permit you to go directly to the 
cities or to return to Marseilles. 



Time Table of the East- Algerian Railway, connecting- at 
Bone Guelma and its extension between Tunis and Algiers. 





GOING. 


1st Class. 


2iid Class. 


Departure. 


Arrival. 








33 60 
16 60 
50 20 


25 20 
12 55 


7.20 A. J 
4.56 P. 1 


I. 
I. 

s.. 


4 47 p. M. 

6 15 P. M. 
10. 15 P. M. 
10.40 P. M. 

7.30 P. M. 


















CoDstautine 


37 65 6.32 A I 












RETURN. 






Depa ture. 


Arrival. 








7.55 A. M. 

815 A. M. 

I.Up. m. 


9 .58 P. M. 

10 40 P. M. 
1.5 P. M. 

3 pm. 
10 40 P. M. 






Constantine 






























1 





-a.c3-3S3:n"c:jx:e3s 

OF THE 

GENERAL TRANSATLANTIC COMPANY 

(FRENCH LINE) 

in Algeria, Tunis, Corsica and flalta. 



^JHccio Costa. 

Algioj's, S boulevard dc la K(''publi(|ue. Bessoii. 

Aiv.ew Faure. 

Bizerte Tunisian Bank. 

Bone, quai Nord De Pleurre. 

I^ougie Grandperve't. 

C'ollo Chauvin ills. 

Coustantiuf Momy. 

Djidjelli Eocco! 

La Calle. . ' j, Panariello fils. 

Malte, 251 stvada Reale Vadala. 

M'^deah Algerian Co. 

Monastir Medina. 

Nemours Chaber & Chasta: 

Oran, place de la ]iei)ublique. . . . De Rochefort. 

Philippeville, place du Marclie . . . Lambert. 

*^t^tif Algerian Co. 

Sfax Tunis Bank. 

Sousse 

Tabarca (He de) 

Tunis, 3 rue Es-Sadikja .' 



MAILBOATS. 


Length 
in 


Wdth 
in 


Gauge 
in 


Horse 


Disp. 
in 


Dspth 






Meters. 


Meters. 


Tons. 


Power. 


Tors. 
2.826 


Mete; . 




Gen^ral-Chanzy. . . 


106 50 


10 70 


2.330 


3.800 


7.75 




JIareehal-Bugeaud 


108 50 


10 90 


2.235 


3.500 


2.920 7.75 




Ville d' Alger 


108 50 


10 90 


2.235 


3.500 


2.920 


7.75 




Duc-de-Bragance. . 


106 50 


10 70 


2.102 


3.300 


2.826 


7.75 




Eugene-Pereire . . . 


106 50 


10 70 


2.078 


3.300 


2.826 


7.75 




Ville-de-Tunis 


99 55 


10 50 


J. 966 


2.600 


2.906 


7.75 




Ville-de-B6ne 


98 40 


10 25 


1.9.38 


2.000 


2.965 


7,75 




yille-d'Oran 


98 40 


10 25 


1.936 


2.000 


2.965 


7.75 




Ville-de-Barcelone 


97 95 


10 25 


1.905 


2.000 


2.965 


7.75 




Kl.'ber 


97 95 


10 25 


1.900 
1.879 


2.000 
2..?J0 


2.965 

2.885 


r- ^- 




Ville-de-Nai)les. . . 


98 55 


10 25 


1 . 10 

7.75 




Ville-de-Madrid.. . 


98 55 


10 25 


1.874 


2.000 


2.959 


7.75 




Moise 


99 " 


10 25 
10 25 


1.873 
1.859 


2.000 
2.000 


2.911 
2.910 






Abd-el-Kader 


99 " 


7.75 




Isaac-Pereire 


99 " 


10 25 


1.8.55 


2.000 


2.910 


7.75 




Saint-Augi'.stin . . . 


99 " 


10 25 


1.854 


2.600 


2.911 


7.75 





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now TO SEE PARIS ALONE 233 

DESCRIPTION OF THE VOYAGE FROM MAR- 
SEILLES TO ALGIERS. 
\our ticket once stamped and your luggage registered 
you iiave only to go aboard the ship of the Compagnie 
Transatlantique. At this time there is a service on Mon- 
day. Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday. When we shall 
have given you a description of one of these steamships 
we shall practically have given you a description of all. 
The deck is reserved for passengers of the jirst and second 
class. There are numerous arm chairs at the dis- 
posal of the passengers, from which they can take in the 
charming panorama which unrolls itself before them. Un- 
der the deck is a, smoking room, supplied with tobacco of 
the best quality, and also beverages of the best sort, which 
the company offers to its patrons at prices lower than 
those of our Paris cofTee houses. A little further along 
is the Grand Salon, the dining room, with its long tables, 
where gayety always reigns, and finally below, on a level 
with the bullseye windows, the cabins where the berths 
are ready. You have a good half hour before the ship 
sails. You can use it either in strolling on the deck, look- 
ing at the equipment, or in attending to your correspon- 
dence and .sending off your telegrams. You need only 
give your letters or telegrams to the steward; he will see 
that they are sent off. You can also receive telegrams 
aboard; you have only to give your correspondents the 
following- address: 

A . . . destination (Algiers, Bone, Phillippeville, 
etc. . . .) Transat. Marseilles. 

And you may be sure that the telegram will be found on 
the table in the salon and you will have only to take it. For 
a letter it is just the same. A quarter of an hour before 
sailing you will see a boy w^alking around frantically ring- 
ing a large bell; this is the moment for the goodbys, for 
in a quarter of an hour the ship will have raised' her 
anchor, and in five minutes more the gangways will have 
been drawn in. The whistle will sound and only a single 
hawser will hold the ship to the quay. This is hauled 
aljoard and the ship starts. Slowly its screw turns over 
and it comes out of the basin of Joliette. Climb up on 
deck, if you are not already there, and take a look at the 
panorama which is disappearing. On the left the Forts 
Saint-Jean and Saint-Nicholas. At the entrance of the 
old port, above which you can see Notre Dame de la 
Garde: on the right along the Islands of Pomogue, Raton- 
neau. the Chateau of If, and further along the lighthouse 



234 HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 

of the Planier; in another half hour the land is nothing 
but a gray streak, and we shall see it again only for a brief 
moment at the Baleares Islands, which we leave on the 
larboard hand. The next day at noon we begin to see 
the white coast of Algeria. All at once the fog vanishes 
and we make out Algiers, shining white, planted on a 
green hill in all its splendor; but before we get there we 
must pass Point Pescade, Saint Eugene, on the left Cape 
Metifou and Mustapha; then slowly the ship draws up 
alongside the bridge which overlooks the Boulevard of the 
Republic. The gangplank is run out and we are once 
more on terra lirma. It is useless to bother with your lug- 
.gage. The custom house inspection is tedious and it is 
best to send a porter from the hotel after the baggage. 
The first thing to do is to select a hotel, or rather select 
the omnibus which is to take you to the hotel of which 
you have already made a choice out of the following list^ 

Algiers. — Hotel de I'Europe, Hotel des Etrangers. 
Mustapha. — Hotel Splendide, Hotel Kirsch, Hotel 
Oriental, Hotel Continental. 

An important suggestion is not to allow yourself to be 
influenced or disturbed by the numerous natives, who will 
precipitate themselves forward to meet you. If you have 
a telegram to send off, it is best to have it carried from 
the hotel. In case you have letters to look for at the post 
office, it is located on the Boulevard of the Republic just 
beyond the square. In visiting Algiers, as in visiting any 
other city, it is best to take a general view of the whole; 
for that you require a carriage. The prices are: A trip in 
the lower part of the city, one franc; in the middle part, 
one franc and a half; in the upper part, two francs; by 
the hour, two francs. I am going to confine myself to a 
description of the most interesting parts of Algiers, those 
one ought to have seen. In my opinion, the Arab quarter, 
so characteristic of the country, should be seen first. That is 
where you find those old Moorish houses and those famous 
houses with grated windows which have been the subject 
of so many romances. There is also in Algiers a French 
quarter, in the lower part of the city; but there is nothing 
whatever attractive in it. In this quarter is to be found 
the Museum and the Library; also the Place du Gouverne- 
ment and the Palace of Justice. But all that, in my opin- 
ion, is not worth the local color. I would not, however, 
forget to mention the Mosque Djama-Djedid, the Rue Bab- 
el-Oued, and the Casbah, an ancient fortress, which was 
the palace of the Bey. It was in this palace that the Con- 



HOW TO SEE PARIS ALONE 235 

sul of France received, in 1826, the famous blow with a 
fan which led up to the conquest of Algeria by the Due 
d'Aumale. As to your evening, you can pass it at the thea- 
tre; but I think it is much more curious to take a guide, 
wlio is indispensable in an Arab city, to visit the local 
dancing places and the fantastic doings of the Aissaouas. 
But make a price with your guide beforehand. They can- 
not be trusted and are always ready to trick the foreigner. 

EXCURSIONS OUTSIDE OF ALGIERS. 

Without taking account of the charming places to which 
the railway of the Est-Algerian will take you and of 
which you will find guides in every hotel, there are several 
promenades which can be made in a carriage: 
The summer palace of the Governor and the Col- 
umn of the Voirole, following the bay of Algiers and the 
mountains of Kabylie; then the promenade of 
Bad-el-Oued, Birkadem, which, although rather 
far, will delight you. One ought not to neglect to 
see Blidah and Cherchel, which are two of the most inter- 
esting points in the country. Here I bring to a close the 
first part of this Guide Book, which I have dedicated to 
the traveler. I hope that I gave at the beginning of the 
book all practical information for escaping the blunders of 
travel, and that I have pointed out to him all the objects 
of interest worthy of his attention and his interest. And 
if, as I hope, O traveler, you are coming with me to go 
through the vast display of the Exposition, I hope to point 
out for your admiration the wonders which Paris has gath- 
ered together in her inclosure, and at the same time to re- 
move all obstacles of travel from your way. 






¥>' 



PQLAW ©E rElP©Sa¥QJ®W jyWQMEKilELlE ©E I Q!i)®!( 

ET Dl| sow ANNEXE DE VINCENNES D'APRES LES DOCUMENTS OEFICIELS 




^ 



PART II. 



EXPOSITION 



Copyrighted, 1899, by Vte. de Keratry. 




I 



CHAPTER I. 



THE EXHIBITION. 



The method we shall use in this second part, will be ex- 
actly the same as the one used in the first, viz: Take the 
visitor by the hand, pointing out the facilities offered to 
hnn either as to mode of conveyance, restaurants or any 
other thing of current necessity, then draw his attention to 
the sites which require more particularly to be seen and 
last to guard him against any possible inconvenience or 
ennui; such will be our aim and to gain it, we shall act, to 
the letter, as we did in the first part of this work, starting 
with practical advice, then asking the reader to accom- 
pany us in a general ramble and thus enable him to find his 
way ill this immense maze. We shall afterwards describe 
the different zones and finish by pointing out carefully the 
attractions and curiosities the Universal Exhibition offers 
lo its visitors. 

PRACTICAL ADVICE. 

Means of Conveyance Ontslde the Exhibition. 

To go to the Exhibition or to return home, the main 
thing is to be acquainted with the means of locomotion 
offered to the public. Cabmen, either to go to the Exhibi- 
tion or from it, demand as a rule most exorbitant prices, 
and this causes one to fully appreciate the particular value 
of th- numerous lines of the General Tramway's Company 
which run to the different entrances. 

OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS. 

The Monumental Gate is reached by street ear lines 
bearing these respective names: 

Bastille-Place de la Concorde.— Place de la Republique- 
Place de la Concorde.— Gare de I'Est-Place de la Con- 
corde.— Porte Saint-Martin-Place de la Concorde.— Pan- 
theon-Place Courcelles.— Passy-Hotel de Ville.— Louvre- 
Versailles. — Louvre-Boulogne-Saint-Cloud. — Hotel de 
Ville-Porte Maillot.— Etoile-Palais-Royal.— Gare du Nord- 



4 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

Place de I'Alma. — Bastille-Porte Rapp. — Javel-Gare Saint- 
Lazare. — Gare des Batignoiles-Gare Monparnasse. — 
Gare de Lyon-Place de I'Alma. 

The Esplanade des Invalides is reached by: 

Palais-Eloyal-Ecole Militaire, Porte Saint-Martin-Gre- 
nelle on the side of Rue de Constantine. Saint Philippe du 
Roule-Vanves, near the Bridge of the Invalides. 

The Bridge of I'Alma is reached, at the corner of the 
rue des Nations by: 

Etoile-Gare Montparnasse. 

The Champ de Mars is reached, on the side of the Ave- 
nue de la Bourdonnais by: 

Quai Valmy-Porte Rapp. — Bastille-Porte Rapp. 

And on the side of the Avenue de la Motte-Picquet by: 

Saint-Philippe du Roule-Vanves.^Javel-Gare Saint- 
Lazarc. — Avenue d'Antin-Issy. — Palais Royal-Ecole Mili- 
taire. — Saint-Sulpice-Auteuil. — Vanves-Paris. 

The gate which leads to the French Colonies is reached 
by the tramway Loitvre-Versailles. 

The entrance facing the Trocadero, in front of the 
Madagascar Exhibition, connects by: 

Hotel de Ville-Passy. — Trocadero-Gare de I'Est. — Au- 
teuil-Madeleine. — Place Pigalle-Trocadero. — La Villette- 
Trocadero. 

The pont de I'Alma, where is to be found the Rue de 
Paris, is reached by: 

Place de I'Alma-Gare de Lyon. — Place de I'Alma-Gare 
du Nord. — Etoile-Montparnasse. — Place de la Chapelle- 
Pont de I'Alma. — Bastille-Porte Rapp. — Montmartre- 
Porte Rapp. — Passy-Hotel de Ville. — Louvre-Versailles. — 
Boulogne-Saint-Cloud. 

STEAMBOATS— OMNIBUS. 

A special service of Steamboats-Omnibus is run night 
and daj'^ to and from the Exhibition and stops at every 
bridge. Price: 30 centimes. 

THE METROPOLITAN (CITY RAILWAY). 

The Metropolitan reaches the Exhibition by three dif- 
ferent stations: 

One, Place de la Concorde at the corner of the Tuile- 
ies facing the Monumental Door; at the Champs- 
Elysees opposite the Grand Palace, and at the Troca- 
dero, close to the entrance of the Exhibition of Madagas- 
car. 

Respecting the fares and the time table of the Metro- 
politan we beg to refer the reader to page 191 (Part I). 



HOW TO SEE EXrOSITION ALONE 5 

WESTERN RAILWAY (CHEMIN DE PER DE 
L'OUEST). 

A circle line starts from the Gare St. Lazare, to the 
Champ de Mars and to the underground station of the 
Invalides. 

First Class — 55 centimes. Second Class — 30 centimes. 

This line passes through: 

Batignolles, Courcelles, Porte Maillot, x\venue du Bois 
de Boulogne, Trocadero, Boulainvilliers, Champ ^ de 
Mars, Invalides. 

Apart from cabs, there are to be found generally a mul- 
titude of waggonnettes or other conveyances unworthy of 
commendation. 

Now that we are able to go as far as any of the doors of 
the Exhibition, it is necessary to find what the price of ad- 
mission may be. 

Money is not allowed to be taken at any of the turn- 
stiles, the visitor must pay with tickets purchased before- 
hand, either in tobacconists' shops, from salesmen in the 
the streets or from any stores where one sees written in 
very large letters at the door, or in any conspicuous place: 

"Vente de tickets d'Entree a I'Exposition." 

(Sale of Entrance Tickets for the Exhibition). 

The price varies almost every day, but on an average it 
is about 60 centimes; by buying twenty, one is able, of 
course, to obtain them a little cheaper. 

Whatever the price of the ticket may be, it will always 
be necessary to give up two tickets to enter the exhibi- 
ion before 10 a. m.; from 10 a. m. to 6 p. m., one ticket 
will be sufficient. After 6 p. m., two tickets will be needed 
except on Sundays or Feast days, when the price remains 
the same, viz: one ticket. On certain days, however, at 
certain hours, and according to a rule which the Adminis- 
tration has not yet established, probably on exceptional 
occasions, the Director of the Exhibition has the right to 
demand two, five, may be even ten tickets. 

MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION INSIDE THE 
EXHIBITION. 

Now we are within, let us study how to get about, with- 
out too that much fatigue, in this immense field opened to 
our curiosity. The principal difficulty for the management 
to solve, was to connect those two centres, so distant from 
one another, the Place des Invalides and the Champ de 
Mars. This problem was solved with ingenuity and va- 
riety, by movable platforms and an electric railway. These 



6 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

Iwo lines, parallel to each other, but moving in opposite 
directions, run along the Quai d'Orsay, the rue Fabert, 
the Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, where they circle outside 
the Exhibition, and the Avenue de la Bourdonnais. The 
electric railway moves the same way as the hands of a 
watch. Each train is composed of a motor engine and 
two carriages. 

Fare: 25 centimes. 

Stations — Invalides (Rue Fabert j. 

Orsay (Foreign Powers). 
Orsay (War and Marine). 
Eiffel Tower and Palace of Electricity. 

The trains can run, if necessary, every 90 seconds. 

The line is sometimes elevated (7 metres high), some- 
times on a level with the ground and sometimes under- 
groutjd (speed, lo miles an hour). The moving platforms, 
22 feet high, number three; one stationary and the other 
two moving; the first has a speed of 2^ miles an hour, the 
second 5. This arrangement has the double advantage 
of allowing visitors, active or otherwise, to pass suces- 
sivel}' from the stationary point to the maximum speed, 
and either to admire from the top of the balcony the de- 
tails of the panorama ofifered to their eyes, or to reach as 
quickly as possible any part of the circuit. The first plat- 
form takes 53 minutes to go all round, the second scarcely 
26. 

Price, 50 centimes, without any limit of distance. 

As usual, there are to be found in large quantities, roll- 
ing chairs, which permit one to visit the Exhibition with- 
out faligue. These are very numerous, particularly at the 
Trocadero, '"Colonial Exhibitions;" for instance, the 
Chinese and Indian runners, the filanzanes, and other 
chairs used in foreign countries. 

Lastly, moving railings, composed of an endless carpet 
which rolls along on motor cylinders, allow one to pass 
insensibly and without any exertion whatever, from one 
floor to another. By subscribing 20 francs, one has the 
right to use them during the whole of the Exhibition. 

Price: 10 centimes per visitor. 

These tickets can be bought cheaper by taking a quan- 
tity. There are 27 of these moving railings. 

RESTAURANTS. 

More than once the time for lunch or meals will catch 
you in the midst of your peregrinations. It is therefore 
necessary to give you a list of the restaurants inside the 
Exhibition, and, as usual, I will do so according to prices. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 7 

EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS. 

At each end of the Pont Alexandre, on-the bank, French 
restaurant on right shore, foreign restaurant on the left 
shore; ail along the rue des Nations; in the pavilions of 
Turkey, Austria, Bosnia, Hungary, Norway, Germany, 
Spain and Greece; at the Champ de Mars, all along the 
central gardens and by the side of the Eififel Tower; bor- 
dering the Avenue de SufYren, the Munich restaurant; also 
■close to the Eiffel Tower, to the Dress Palace, to the 
Tour de Monde, to the Swiss Cottage, to the Touring 
Club, to the Palais de la Femme, and at the Cineorama; 
at the Trocadero, on both sides of the Pont d'lena (right 
she re), at the British Indies, Egypt, China, etc. 

SECOND CLASS RESTAURANTS. 

Two in the annexes of the rue de Constantine; two in 
those of the rue Fabert, and in the annexes of Austria and 
Japan; on the Quai d'Orsay, the Roumanian restaurant 
near the Press Pavilion; at the Champ de Mars, all along 
the exhibits of linens and fabrics, civil engineering, also at 
the palaces of Mechanics and Chemical Industries; at the 
Trocadero, close to the pleasure boats Exhibition; all the 
restaurants in the rue de Paris, the Bouillons Duval are 
placed Quai de Billy, down the river, close to the narrow 
toot-bridge which connects the Vieux Paris to the Palace 
of War and Marine and at the Champ de Mars at the 
corner of the Avenue de SufTren and the Avenue de la 
Motte-Picquet. 

RESTAURANTS TABLE D'HOTE. 

La Belle Aleuniere, at the Trocadero, down the river 
and at the corner of the Pont d'lena: Breakfast. 4 francs; 
dinner 5 francs. There is one at each of the corners of the 
Champ de Mars, another in the middle of the Avenue de 
Suflfren and the last between the pleasure boats Exhibition 
and the Vieue Paris. Lastly let us mention about one 
hundred ALIMENTARY KIOSKS, or BOOTHS, and 
as a curiosity the special sites put at the disposal of those 
desirous to eat in the open. 

POST OFFICES, lELEGRAPHS AND TELE- 
PHONE INSIDE THE EXHTBllTON. 

It will not be necessary for you to leave the Exhibition 
to communicate with anyone or attend to bu.sinegs. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

The Post Office authorities have made a careful selec- 
tion in their already selected staff. Eighty chief operators 
and clerks, together with 175 sub-agents and postmen, at- 
tend to the wants of the public from 7 a. m. to 11 p. m. 
The main office is close to the gate of the Avenue de la 
Bourdonnais, opposite Avenue Rapp. Branch offices are 
situated: Pont dTena; Avenue de Suffren, close to the 
Big Wheel; Pont de I'Alma, facing the Palace of Con- 
gress; Quai d'Orsay; on the Esplanade des Invalides, at 
the corner of the rue Fabert; at the Grand Palace of Fine 
Arts, and at the Cours-la-Reine. A telegraph office is 
situated on the second platform of the Eiffel Tower. An- 
other office has also been established in the Annex of 
Vincennes behind the Charenton Cemetery. 

The subscription to the telephone is 300 francs for the 
whole of the Exhibition, 150 francs for six months and 25 
francs more per month above that period, but the useful- 
ness of this service is, in reality, only felt by the exhibitors. 
Fifty public call offices are at the disposal of anyone, who, 
by paying 20 francs, will immediately receive a card of 
admission entitling the bearer to use those offices when- 
ever they are opened. 

BANKING AND EXCHANGE FACILITIES AT 
THE EXHIBITION. 

You will even be able to carry out your banking opera- 
tions within the precincts of the Exhibition. 

The Comptoir National d'Escompte has opened, for that 
purpose, at the Champ de Mars, corner of the Southern 
Pillar of the Eiffel Tower, a handsomely and elegantly 
furnished pavilion, together with telegram room, salon of 
correspondence, telephonic cabin, exchange office; in one 
word, everything which makes the features of the head 
office of this well known social establishment. Rue Ber- 



CHAPTER II 



(GENERAL REVIEW, 



Before going into a detailed description of the visit to 
each Palace, it seems to me to be in the interest of the 
reader to make a general survey of the whole, to the end 
that he may always be able to locate himself in the midst 
of this vast display while visiting, in detail, later on, all 
parts of this veritabe city by itself. I am going to divide 
this general view into two days (but inasmuch as we shall 
begin the second day where we left off the first), it is evi- 
dent that the whole can be done in one day if the visitor 
prefers. If, at the end of, or during the first day, you 
should so desire to make a more extensive examination of 
the attractions along your route, you have only to refer 
to the description in one of the next chapters, where, in its 
proper place, everything is taken in turn. 

FIRST DAY. 

Drive to the Place de la Concorde about lo in the morn- 
ing. Here is the principal entrance to the Exposition, 
called Porte Monumentale because of its very large dimen- 
sions, but also known as Porte Binnet, from the name of 
the distinguished architect who designed it. It consists of 
three arches holding up a gilded dome. It covers about 
five hundred and fifty square -yards and is capable of shel- 
tering two thousand people. It is tianked to the right 
and to the left by two towers, which throw electric 
rays over the city. In the evening the appearance of the 
whole, sparkling with many-colored lights, is fairylike. 
The bas-reliefs on the gate, which are the work of Guillot, 
are worthy to be admired. Once within the inclosure of 
the Exposition we find ourselves in a vast shaded way (the 
old Cours-la-Reine), whose borders have been transformed 
into a monstrous and marvelous exhibition of horticulture, 
which will be renewed each season. This floral display 
continuing as far as the entrance to the Bridge des Inval- 
ides, of which we shall speak later on, harmonizes with the 
horticultural decoration of the new palaces of the Champs 
Elysee'i, and its annexes continue as far as the intersection 
of the Avenue d'Antin with the Champs Elysees. 






%r 



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.vililltlMIIIIIMI-l 






The Palaces of the Champs-Elysees and Exposition, 
viewed from the Bridge Alexandre III. 



HOW" TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE I I 

A few hundred yards farther along this shaded way is 
crossed by the Avenue Nicolas II., which connects the 
liridge Alexander III. on your left with the Avenue des 
Champs Elysees on your right. We shall return later to 
this bridge; at present let us turn to the right and go up 
the Avenue Nicolas II. as far as the gate which opens 
on the Champs Elysees. 

And now turn and look at the marvelous spectacle which 
offers itself; at the end of the avenue the lofty dome of the 
Invalides lifts itself majestically, its gilded surface respond- 
ing brilliantly to each ray of the sun, while on each side 
the two Palaces of Industry, which border this avenue, 
shine out in pure white, while nearer to you rise the pylons 
of the Bridge Alexander III. Close by you, to left and 
right, rise those two palaces whose brilliantly-colored pic- 
tures attract your attention. On the right is the large pal- 
ace, whose entrance is from the Avenue Nicolas II. 
The colonnade in front suggests that of the Louvre. A 
truly imposing appearance has been given to the principal 
entrance by M. Girault, architect, the sides below are orna- 
mented with a frieze by Mr. Fournier: Art's Figures; 
those on the sides are executed by celebrated artists, rep- 
resent the different arts; at the two extremities of the 
fagade other gigantic groups, the Quadrigas, represent Im- 
mortality preceding Time and Harmony ruling Discord. 

The Grand Palace is in the general shape of a geometri- 
cian's T, and its three distinct parts have been treated by 
three separate artists, under the direction of Mr. Girault, 
The principal fagade, of which we have just spoken, is the 
work of Mr. Deglane. The facade in the rear, on the Ave- 
nue d'Antin, is by Mr. Thomas. Do not overlook the 
frieze in pottery from the factory at Sevres, after drawings 
by Joseph Blanc and representing the History of Art down 
through the Ages; finally, the gate allotted to Mr. Louvet 
is Median and forms a symmetrical union of the two 
others. 

In this palace are two sorts of expositions, one reserved 
for French and foreign artists, the other, on the right, to 
the Centennial Museum. If now we go back towards the 
left the Little Palace is the next thing to attract our atten- 
tion. The proximity of these two palaces, very pleasing to 
the eye when separately considered, has been made the 
subject of much criticism, but an intelligent Cicerone, as 
was remarked at the beginning of this work, keeps strictly 
within his province when he points out objects especially 
worthy of attention. I shall confine myself to saying: Ob- 
serve, study, compare. By the side of this great palace. 




View from the Avenue Nicolas II. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE I 3 

majestic in its structure, is a work of art by Mr. Girault. 

The Little Palace affects the shape of a trapeze. Its 
basis is the Monumental Frontage, which serves as En- 
trance, and the back looks toward the "Jardin des Euiler- 
ies," whilst the sides look respectively on the Cours La 
Reine and the Avenue des Champs Elysees. 

The Entrance is an imposing structure, with an opening, 
15 metres wide, with a staircase of twenty steps. Notice 
the finish of the Principal Door, work of Injalbert; groups 
of the Seine and the Seasons. Do not forget the bass 
reliefs (bas-reliefs), by Hughes, and the Clock, ornamented 
with figures of Hector Lemaine representing: Night and 
Day together with the Three Fatal Sisters. 

Now let us go back as far as the Bridge Alexander HL, 
and follow the banks of the Seine through those magnifi- 
cent beds of flowers and plants. After crossing the Bridge 
of the Invalides we shall soon be in the Rue de Paris. The 
pavilion of the city of Paris, which lies on the right, while 
the Bohemian restaurant is on the left, is the first object 
which will excite your curiosity. On the scrolls of the first 
story one can follow the various changes which the arms of 
the city of Paris have undergone since the year 1200; 
above, on the frieze, we find represented the different 
bodies of craftsmen; close by we see the Garden of Chan- 
son, and, finally, a little farther along we come to the fa- 
mous Aquarium, which belongs to the Pavillion of Horti- 
culture and Arboriculture, while on the right hand side of 
the street succeed, one after another, the attractions of the 
Rue de Paris: la Maison du Rire, les Tableaux Vivants, le 
Chat Noir and la Roulotte; then, before we get to the 
Grand Guignol and to the Bonshommes Guillaume, a 
series of borders and of gardens forming a part of the an- 
nexes of the exhibition of horticulture. 

The Palace of Horticulture, which encloses between the 
two wings of which it is composed the Aquarium of Paris, 
consists of two halls in glass united by a garden in the 
form of a terrace, which is reached by a stairway, this latter 
ending in a terrace running along the Seine, and where are 
located the conservatories (hot-houses), coffee-houses and 
bars. Farther along, on the same side with the Pavillion 
of Horticulture and of Arboriculture, is the Palace of 
Dancing, opposite to the Gay Authors, the Manoir 
a I'envers. the Theatre of Loie Fuller and the 
Grand Guignol. The Palace of Congresses and of 
Social Economy is next neighbor to the Palace of Danc- 
ing, and suggests a bringing together of diametrically op- 
posite extremes, since side by side with the handsome 




I iJi'iJH!; General view of the Alexander III. Bridge. 



now TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE '15 

(lancers arc lodged the learned gentlemen who have come 
10 discuss the future welfare of nations. The aspect of this 
monument of learning is far from bringing up the idea of 
gavety. Its cube of a severe white appearance is made up 
of three niches, with three bays, each separated by two 
pillars, its sole ornament being a series of busts of the 
economists of the last century. We are now at the Bridge 
of Alma, where are situated two large gates of the Expo- 
sition. There is a foot-bridge here, above the bridge, 
which will enable you, if you choose, to reach the Rue des 
Nations, on the other bank of the river. 

For the present let us continue along the right bank, 
and as soon as we shall have passed the Place of Alma by 
means of the footbridge thrown across the large bridge, 
we shall find ourselves in front of Old Paris. For a length 
of 600 yards we shall see, one after another, reconstruc- 
tions of the houses and the monuments of ancient Lutece. 
Now, after having passed the French restaurant, we find 
ourselves on the bank of the Seine in front of the exhibi- 
tion of pleasure yachts and behind us the pavilion of the 
Boards of Nautical trade. 

We have now reached the animated trips (voyages ani- 
mes). We shall mention them again in the chapter: "Le 
Trocadero." 

When we have passed the Colonial Restaurant we come 
to the Bridge of lena, which connects the Trocadero, 
where the Colonial Exhibition is, with the Champs de 
Mars, which apart from the numerous curiosities grouped 
about the Eififel Tower is completely filled with large 
palaces. 

During this first promenade we sliall stay on the right 
bank of the Seine, and shall give our time to the Trocdero. 

The Colonial Exhibition, both French and foreign, is lo- 
cated wholly in the Garden of the Trocadero. It is not 
necessary to give here any detailed description, for the 
reason that farther along in this volume is a chapter wholly 
given up to the Trocadero, whose buildings in such varied 
forms and different styles deserve more than a single visit. 
Still I will ask you to observe now before you to the right 
and the left two structures brilliantly white. They are the 
two Pavilions of .\lgcria: the one on the right is the offi- 
cial i);iviIion. A little farther along to the left i>f the un- 
official Algerian exhibition is the Tunisian. .\t the end is 
the Grand Palace of the Trocadero, by the side of which, 
on the left, is the exhibition of .-Asiatic Russia, while behind 
this last, and not visible from where you stand, is a moving 
platform, which takes you to the exhibition of Madagascar. 




Palace of Civil Engineering, 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE I 7 

Let it suffice to say now that the Gardens of the Troca- 
dero, where the whole colonial display is grouped, are 
given up on the right hand side (as you face the monument 
of the Trocadero on the bridge) to foreign colonies, and on 
the left hand side to French colonies. A large subterranean 
f^allery, near the monument of the Trocadero, has afforded 
cppor!.unity for a subterranean mining exhibition, entrance 
t<i which is had by means of two passage ways, one on the 
right, the ether on the left in the borders of the two large 
streets which extend from the two central gates of the 
Trocadero as far as to where we stand. The first day's 
preliminary survey of the Exposition ends here, and 1 
v\ould suggest to take advantage of your proximity to the 
Colonial Restaurant (at your right on the quay) to try its 
well-llavored cookery. 



SECOND DAY 

This lime we will drive to Gate No. 4, Place du Troca- 
dero, at the corner of the Avenue du Trocadero. Having 
crossed over under the peristyle of the Trocadero, leaving 
belling us JVladagascaf (that large circular structure on the 
right), we will go down the route which lies before us 
(bordered on the left by the exhibition of Asiatic Russia) 
as far as the Seine at the Bridge of lena, where we stopped 
yesterday. Let us cross the bridge and halt. Before us arc 
the supports of the Eiffel Tower, whose color is not the 
same as that which excited so much admiration in 1889. 
On our right are the exhibitions of hunting, fishing, fores- 
try, etc. 

On the left everything pertaining to navigation and then 
in a second part of the exhibit of navigation, the Paris 
boats, and a little farther along the Messageries Maritinies. 
Let us go on now, leaving on our right and left the For- 
eign Pavilion to which we shall soon come back, and 
place ourselves under the center of the Eiffel Tower, in 
order to take in, in a brief glance, the various edifices 
which surround us, and know how to locate ourselves at 
our next visit. In the distance, exactly opposite, is the 
Chateau d'Eau, the Palace of Electricity, the Hall of Festi- 
vals, and the two long palaces which you see to right and 
left enclosing gardens are made up each of three distinct 
palaces, containing the exhibit of Education, Engineering, 
Mechanics, Metallurgy, Costumes, etc., the details of which 
will be found on another page. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 



'9 



All about us wc find only what have been characterized 
as the Attractions. We shall not investigate them to-day, 
placed, as they are, in the vicinity of the Eiffel Tower, you 
will easily locate them by referring to the Chapter on At- 
tractions. You will easily select such as invite your atten- 
tion, and the plan will guide you to them. Let us now re- 
trace our steps as far as the Bridge of lena, to the left of 
which is situated the Oyster Park, and let us turn to the 
right; here we are between the Paris boats, on the left, and 
the Messageries Maritimes, on the right, to which succeeds, 
on the right, the Chamber of Commerce, on the 
left the Pavilion of the Navigation of Commerce, 
after which we enter the Rue des Nations, which 
comes out to our right by the Pavilions of Belgium, of 
Great Britain and of Russia; on the left are the land and 
sea forces, close by the Pavilion of Mexico. We are now 
at the Bridge of Alma; hence to the next bridge are only 
foreign pavilions; on the left are represented Servia. 
Greece, Monaco, Spain, Sweden, Germany, Norway, Bel- 
gium, Great Britain, Hungary, Bosnia, Austria, the United 
States, Turkey and Italy, while on the right are seen Rou- 
mania, Finland, Luxemburg, Persia, Peru, Portugal and 
Denmark. 

We have now reached the Bridge of the Invalides. 

Before leaving this remarkable Rue des Nations, let us 
go up for a moment on the foot-bridge, which crosses the 
Bridge of the Invalides, and admire the magnificent view 
presented by the basin of the river from the Bridge of the 
Invalides to that of Alma, and which has been named the 
Bassin des Fetes. 

In the evening it is used for Venetian festivals; in the 
daytime it presents a unique spectacle with its numerous 
palaces on both streets casting their shadows on the water. 

Now we come to the Esplanade of the Invalides, where 
is found the principal station of the Western Railway, lo- 
cated, so to speak, under ground. 

Let us take a rapid look at foreign tobaccos, the Vienna 
restaurant, the different foreign annexes, the furnaces and 
glass-works, the potteries, and then go into that series of 
palaces arranged in the form of a horse-shoe in the annex 
of the Bridge Alexander III., and containing, first, the 
national manufactures; second, decoration and furnishing 
of public edifices and dwelling houses. This part of the 
Exposition is really interesting, and the long lines of pal- 
aces of different styles which unite the Bridge Alexander 
III. to the Hotel des Invalides produce a fine effect. 



20 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

One can only regret the encroachment on the central 
route which now, from the Seine, shows only the portal 
of the Invalides, but it was necessary at all costs to find 
room for the exhibitors. Near the quay the exhibition of 
the Esplanade begins by an immense place in semi-circle, 
ending at the Rue of the Palaces of the Mobilier and of 
the Decoration. This place is situated above the very rail- 
way station of the Invalides, whose existence is disclosed 
by four transparent sidewalks, surrounded by flanking ma- 
sonry, and by a way paved with thick crystal bricks, which 
allow the light to pass through. 

In the central alley are six small gardens, where are 
shown collections of French and foreign rose-propagators 
and cultivators. The wings of the palaces have for base 
elegant arcades, surrounded above by a large terrace. 
From place to place to the top scrolls represent the armor- 
ies of Foreign Nations on the right and of the principal 
cities of France on the left. On each side the line of pal- 
aces forms a harmonious whole, which gives communi- 
cation between the vast halls of which it is composed 
and which ends on the side towards the Invalides by an 
ornamental facade, where may be seen handsome bas- 
reliefs, the works of the potter, and painting on pottery. 
On the side toward the Seine are to be seen' fine groups of 
statuary by Houdin, representing Industrial France, and 
France Welcoming the Nations, by Peynot. 

It should be noted that on the Esplanade everything 
which is of French origin is on the left, and every- 
thing of foreign origin on the right, instead of having 
them all assembled in the same palace, as was done 
in the Champ de Mars. We must not leave the 
Esplanade without casting a glance on the shade of 
the trees regularly planted, the whole length of the 
Rue Constantine, the French annexes, the Mas Pro- 
vengal, the Musique Bretonne, the exhibition of the Dec- 
orative Arts, the displays of the Magasins of the Eouvre, 
and the Printemps, and, on the quay, the decorative exhibi- 
tion of the street, as well as a new series of annexes of 
Horticulture. Let us close this long survey by a lengthy 
stay on the Bridge Alexander III. It spans the river by 
a single arch more than 340 feet in length by a width of 130 
feet, preceded at each end by two groups of towers sur- 
mounted by gilded Pegasuses. It is wholly of iron, worked 
out with ornaments of bronze in relief, and has a keystone 
of its arch a tablet representing the Seine and the Neva, the 
work of Mr. Recipon. After having crossed the bridge we 



now TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 2 1 

find ourselves again in the Avenue Nicholas II., near the 
monumental gate. We can now look at the magnificent 
open ironwork gate of the Metropolitan station at the 
Champs Elysees entrance, which will take us later to the 
annex of the Exposition at Vincennes. 




The Grand Palace. 



CHAPTER III. 



PALACES OF THE CHAMPS ELYSEES. 



Now that we have run through the Exposition in a way 
to get an inteUigent glance at its general arrangement and 
locate each monument, we will visit them successively in 
detail to examine their interior: for these visits the plan 
which we shall adopt in this first chapter of detail is this; 
We will devote an entire day to the palace of the Champs 
des Elysees; the next day or any other following day (for 
we can now vary the order of the visits as they are ar- 
ranged in succession in the chapters of the book), we will 
give to the right bank of the Seine: the rue de Paris; 
after that will come the chapter of the Trocadero; the Co- 
lonial Expositions. It remains only to cross the Seine 
and we are in the midst of (chapter IV) The attractions: 
We will make an examination in all directions of those 
large displays due to private enterprise and contained in 
those different palaces which encircle the Tower EifTel 
about. The following chapter will take us across the 
large palaces in the field of Mars; then in Chapter VIII. 
we will take up rue des Nations; this chapter has been the 
object of special care and preparation, for here will be, 
both for the foreigner and the French, the most attractive 
part of the Exposition. Finally, we shall finish Chapter 
X. with the Esplanade of the Invalides, where all the 
divers intustries are assembled. 

THE PALACE OF THE CHAMPS ELYSEES. 

Entrance to the Exposition this time will be by the gate 
of the avenue of the Champs Elysees, the one which is op- 
posite the new gate open in the rue of the Palais de 
I'Elysee, which borders the avenue Marigny. As soon as 
we shall have passed through one of the turnstiles we 
shall find ourselves in the avenue which goes between the 
two palaces as far as the Bridge Alexander III. On our 
right and on our left flowers and plants; this is one of the 
numerous open-air annexes of the Exhibition of Horticul- 
ture; on our right is the Grand Palais, we will begin here. 
As soon as we have crossed the threshold of the large 



24 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

door, leaving the colonnades on the left and on the fight, 
we see straight before us, under the vast cupola of glass 
which covers it, the entire exhibition of sculpture, but be- 
fore entering into details, let us, if you please, take a 
glance about us in order to familiarize ourselves with the 
internal arrangement. The cupola, under which we stand, 
is made by the intersection of the large nave and a sort 
of counter nave, which is the vast gallery opening oppo- 
site the large door. This counter-nave is inclosed by two 
branches, in the form of a horseshoe, of the monumental 
staircase which leads to the floor where are the paintings. 
This staircase is divided into two parts, the front part, 
where we are, and the rear part, which is made up of a 
large elliptical hall, surmounted by a metallic dome, hav- 
ing on either hand a large hall with balconies. On the 
first floor are found the paintings. On the ground floor, 
near the grand staircase, on the right, is a vast salle 
d'honneur, or reception room, which can even be used for 
large concerts. One thing important now to fix in the 
mind (if that be necessary for an understanding of the 
plans which we are about to lay out), is that all that part 
of the Grand Palace which lies to our right is entirely given 
up to the French display,while the part on our left is wholly 
given up to foreigners. The display on each side is of the 
same character, but while France has all the space on the 
right, the foreigners have divided among themselves the 
space on the left, and their displays, although relatively 
smaller, are none the less symmetrical. An axis laid down 
from the gate of the avenue of the Bridge Alexander III. 
and intersecting in its midst the magnificent staircase, is 
the median line which separates the French exhibit from 
the foreign exhibit, except that up one flight, the French 
exhibit of paintings encroaches a little on the other side. 
Now let us go up on the right hand side of the magnifi- 
cent staircase as far as the first story, which is given 
up wholly to artists of our day; that is to say, to those 
who, at least as far as the French are concerned, have 
made an exhibit in the last three or four Salons. Being 
now at the head of the staircase, let us begin our visit by 
the first room on the left, the one which is contiguous to 
the exhibit of Japan. This room contains aquarelles and 
drawings. If we keep on in the direction in which the 
hands of a watch go, we find the foUowings displays: lo, 
architecture; 8, engravings and lithographing; 7, paint- 
ings, drawings and sketches, all executed by French artists. 
When we get around, opposite the monumental gate by 
which we entered the building, we come to the exhibit of 



now TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 25 

foreign painters. All the following sections are desig- 
nated by the name of the nation making the exhibt, and 
coming around to our point of departure we go down the 
staircase, pass under it to visit the gallery at the extremity 
on the right and on the left; it is the Centennial Exposition 
— on the right French, on the left foreign. It is adjacent 
to the French side of the Salon d'Honneur, which we 
have already pointed out. Retracing our steps, we find in 
the midst of the gardens and the parterres all the finest 
sculptures distributed according to the same order. Re- 
gaining the door, we are obliged to pass through the 
Centennial Exposition. It is not thought necessary to 
give the nomenclature of all the works exhibited or a list 
of the rooms which follow one another. It will suffice to 
point out to the reader each one of the large divisions of 
this Palace of Fine Arts, and he will be able to look 
through it with pleasure; but here I will make a sugges- 
tion. Although the large, oiScial catalogue, with its 
great number of volumes, may have attractions for the 
general visitor, the special little work for the Fine Arts 
could hardly fail to have great value for him who seeks to 
take mere than a cursory glance at thi* collection. Oppo- 
site us is the Little Palace, which is at least as interesting 
as the large one. It is the Museum of the retrospective 
Exposition, and is solely devoted to a retrospective view 
of French art. We will enter by the large door opposite 
that of the Palace of Fine Arts, by which we have just 
come out, and we find ourselves in the midst of old royal 
armor, like that of Francis I., Charles IX., Louis XIII., 
by the side of stained glass windows and casts; then on the 
right are carriages from Trianon, after that furniture. The 
Little Palace is a collection of galleries arranged in double 
and sometimes in triple lines; those on the right and on 
the left are lighted laterally and from without, those in the 
centre are lighted from overhead. The first are especially 
devoted to sculpture; the others to paintings. The Little 
Palace is ornamented in its centre by a lovely garden, 
which is overlooked by a circular gallery, giving a very 
graceful effect. After the Exposition, this monument will 
revert to the city of Paris, which will establish its museum 
within it. At present, the retrospective Exposition which 
is sheltered there, is made up of the masterpieces of the 
museums and of private collections; all the schools of this 
century are represented there. When we shall have given 
a look at all that verdure which lies round about the two 
palaces and shall have gone as far as the Cours la Reine, 
it vvfill remain only to devote a little time to the Bridge 

4I 



26 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

Alexander III., opposite which we shall come out, and we 
shall have seen all that part known as the Section of the 
Champs Elysees. 

The Bridge Alexander III. is one of the central points 
of the Exposition of 1900. It spans the river with a length 
of about 350 feet and a width of 130 feet. At each ex- 
tremity are two groups of towers surmounted by gilded 
Pegasuses. Female figures seated on pedestals at the foot 
of each tower represent figures symbolizing France in her 
chief periods of glory. The one opposite us on the right 
represents the France of to-day, the one on the left France 
under Charlemagne. The base of each of these statues is 
ornamented with allegorical groups in gilded bronze. 
In front of the towers the gilded lions are the work of 
Gaudet. If we cross the Seine, we shall be able to admire 
the balustrade with its candelabra and its ' genii. In the 
centre of the arch is represented, on the right, the Seine, 
on the left the Neva, thus recalling the visit of the sover- 
eign of Russia, when, accompanied by the President of the 
French Republic, he laid the first stone of this monument 
which sealed the alliance between France and Russia. We 
have now reached the left bank. Let us turn to look at the 
Pylons, or towers; the gilded lions are the work of Dalou. 
On the right, the statue of the woman seated represents 
France at the time of the Rennaisance, that on the left 
France under Louis XIV. Behind us and on the right 
is the Station of the Invalides, where train will take us 
rapidly to the centre of Paris, unless, indeed, you prefer to 
go out by gate No. 5. 



CHAPTER IV. 



THE RUaiT SHORE OF THE SEINE FROM THE 
PONT DES INVALIDES TO THE TROCADERO. 



THE RUE DE PARIS. 

Entering- by the monumental door and following the 
intervvay of the Seine, we pass first, those flower beds 
and clumps of trees, situated below the Palais des Champs 
Elysees and which are an annex of the Horticultural 
Exhibition, to reach the goal of our visit, the Rue de 
Paris. 

THE RUE DE PARIS. The Rue de Paris consist of 
a row of theatres, opposite some pavilions, interesting to 
Paris alone, because they are exhibitions of purely Pari- 
sian origin. 

The buildings are placed on two rows, one on the left, 
bordering the Seine, the other on the right, bordering the 
Cours La Reine. If you do not mind, we will start with 
those on the left and we find, then, first of all : 

THE PA VILLON DE LA VILLE DE PARIS. It is 
a reproduction of the Hotel de Ville. On the ground 
floor, we notice a park, a miniature reproduction of the 
Park of Versailles, with its monumental fountain, and the 
waters are so disposed as to form an allegory of the rivers 
supplying Paris, viz., La Vanne, I'Avre, I'Ourcq, and last 
of all our great Parisian river : la Seine. All round are 
represented all the diflferent public works of the "Ville de 
Paris," water works, drains and sewers, lighting, the Pre- 
fecture of Police (Police Headquarters), with its anthro- 
pometric service, etc. On the first floor are the large 
Parisian schools, such as the Law Academy, the Academy 
of Medicine, and all the professional or Grammar schools. 
The sewers and drains exhibition is completed in the 
basement part of the building. 

Further is to be found : 

THE GARDEN OF SONG (Le Jardin de la Chanson), 
opened from 3 p. m. until midnight. Admission, i and 
2 francs. 



28 • HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

It is the "Vieille Chanson" (the Song of Old) sung by 
pretty women, clad in costumes of the period. Everything 
in this charming frame carries us back to the time of our 
forefathers. 

Close to a foreign restaurant, we find the famous Palace 
of Hbrticulture which includes the Paris Aquarium. The 
only thing for me to say is that the whole of the Pavilion 
at the end, on the other side of the Aquarium, is reserved 
to foreign exhibitors, whilst the first one we meet is ex- 
clusively PVench. Needless to give you details, you only 
have to walk leisurely in the midst of those flowers and 
plants, some of them perfect marvels. I must nevertheless 
point out to you the AGRICULTURAL INSTRU- 
MENTS' EXHIBITION, to be found in a gallery raised 
five metres above the ground in the centre of the aisle 
and whose walls are covered with plans and water-colors. 
In the basement, two large conservatories, beside all the 
plants and flowes they contain, show us all the watering 
and heating apparatus, in fact everything used or em- 
ployed in hot houses. 

THE AQUARIUM. Admission : From 8 a. m. to 
S p. m., I franc; from 5 p. m. to 9 p. m., 2 francs; from 
9 p. m. to midnight, 3 francs. 

It represents the whole of the submarine world with its 
inhabitants, its plant growth, the monsters of the deep, 
its corals, in one word the whole of its animal and floral 
life lighted up by rays of lights; the source of light is 
indiscoverable. 

THE PALACE OF THE DANCE. The prices vary 
from 1.25 to 5 francs. It is an elegant little theatre re- 
production of the famous Bayreuth Auditorium and the 
stage of the whole history of the dance, living and 
animated, unfurls itself before your eyes. Pretty girls, 
garbed in dresses appropriate to periods, countries and 
circumstances, take turns in dancing the Gavotte and the 
Minuet; then you will see the Bacchanales of the Romans, 
the Chinese dances followed by the Nautch Girls, sO' light 
and graceful conjuring up reminiscences of India and the 
Sacred dances. 

THE palace" of CONGRESS AND SOCIAL 
ECONOMY offers but very few things to excite your 
curiosity. It has been constructed more especially to be 
used as a meeting place for the dififerent congresses, which 
will succeed one another during the whole time of the 
Exhibition. The ground floor is given up more particu- 



now TO SEK F.XPOSITION ALONE 29 

larly to Social Protection, that is to say, to institutions 
protecting childhood and making regulations for syndicates 
and professional associations. The first floor reserved to 
the congresses is divided into live halls, one of them much 
larger than the others will be used for concerts. 

We have now reached the Pont de I'Alma which we will 
cross by a foot bridge which will enable us to emerge 
opposite Old Paris. 

OLD PARIS. Admission : i franc during the day; 
2 francs from 7 p. m.; on Fridays : 2 francs during the 
day and 4 francs during the evening; on Sundays : 50 cen- 
times during the day and i franc from 6 p. m. 

Old Paris is the reconstruction of Paris of the middle 
ages. There are three parts absolutely distinct from ong 
another, the portal called Porte Saint-Michelis admits to 
the portion which ends at the church Saint-Julien des 
Menetriers, leading to the quarter of the Halles. Whilst 
the former belongs to the fifteenth century, the Halles 
represents the eigteenth century, and the next is a mixture 
of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; the palace 
belongs to the period of the Renaissance. 

I must, however, mention here the different attractions 
contained in the Vieux Paris which, of course, like every 
town watchful of its good reputation possess a large 
number of cafes and restaurants at various prices. 
Among those we will mention the Cabaret de la Pomme 
de Pin (The Pine Cone Inn), made famous by Alexandre 
Dumas, and where one can hear the charming diva Mile. 
Eugenie Bufifet. The Theatre de la Bodiniere, which its 
amiable director has made one of the snuggest and most 
select places, has an annex in the Salle des Palais, where 
we can listen to the old airs sung with exquisite taste and 
pathos by Mile. Amos. At the church Saint-Julien des 
Menetriers, M. Bordes, assisted by the singers of Saint- 
Gervais, gives two recitals every d'Sy, at 11 a. m. and 
5 p. m. 

We have now only to mention the Grand Theatre, where 
in turn all the most celebrated artists of the gay capital 
come to sing or play. Admission : 2 and 3 francs. Tlie 
Concert Colonne, already mentioned in Chapter VIII, 
performs there every day. 

When leaving Old Paris, we arrive at the: 

NAVIGATION DE PLAISANCE, which is adjacent 
to the Trocadero and with which we will close this part 
of the chapter, as we shall need to wend our ways back 



30 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

to our starting point to visit the other side of the Rue de 
Paris. 

NAVIGATION DE PLAISANCE. I have no need to 
give you any details respecting that exhibition made on 
tlie river Seine. You only have to admire the different 
models exposed to your view. 

I have chosen this route, in the belief that it is the 
most rational, and in order to save you from walking too 
much, I should advise you, when you have passed the 
Palace of Congress and before crossing over the foot 
bridge, to retrace your steps and visit the opposite side 
of the Rue de Paris. We will find first : ____^_,^ 

LA TOUR DU MERVEILLEUX, OU MANOIR A 
L'ENVERS (The World Upside Down). Admission : 

1 franc. 

Everything in that castle is built upside down, with the 
chimneys on the ground and through a very ingenious 
system we can see the whole of the Exhibition topsy- 
turvy. There is a special gallery, where the handsomest 
woman will see herself turn into a hideous monster ! 

THE THEATRE DES AUTEURS GAIS. Admission: 

2 francs. It is a truly fair day theatre, where the actors 
parade the boards outside, inviting you to enter the 
building, which is most handsomely an d luxuriously 
furnished; the plays heard inside are the works of some of 
the cleverest members of the Parisian newspaper world. 

THEATRE LOIE FULLER. Price : Stalls, 2 francs; 
Dress circle, i franc. 

Every one knows the style of amusement to be wit- 
nessed, for there is not a country in the world which has 
not seen Lo'ie Fuller and admired her light effect dances. 

We still have : 

THE PHOTO-CINEMA THEATRE, a combination 
of the phonograph and the cinematograph; further on is 
the THEATROSCOPE. The admission in those two 
theatres is i franc. 

LES BONSHOMMES GUILLAUME. Entrance : 
I franc. It is the reproduction of actual events and life. 
It is a magnificent little theatre of actuality. All the 
events occurred lately are represented to you in miniature 
with miniature actors, whose resemblance to the originals 
is simply marvelous. It is the work of the grand artist 
Guillaume. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 3 I 

LE GRAND GUIGNOL (Punch and Judy). Admis- 
sion : I and 2 francs. Besides Dickson's Fantastic Ca- 
binet and the American Biograph, which only perform 
at nights, we have during the day the whole history of 
ihe Farce en France, from its origin until the present day. 

We are again in front of the Palace of Horticulture, 
Llien : 

LA ROULOTTE. Admission : i, 2 and 3 francs during 
the day, and 2, 3 and 5 francs at night. The auditorium of 
the Roulotte (the Strolling Players), has been constructed 
by the popular architect M. Binet, the creator of the Porte 
Monumentale, which adorns cover of this book. It is 
-Montmartre at large transported to the Exhibition. One 
finds there Bruant, Furcy, Xanroff. There are dances, 
mimics and recitals of the Chanson Rosse. 

LIVING PICTURES. Admission: i, 2, 3 and 5 francs. 
't is more a plastic exhibition, where in turn we see the 
poems of Armand Sylvestre, the poems on feminine plastic 
taken from Milton's Paradise Lost, and also a trip to the 
land of dreams in the very centre of the stars, the whole 
accompanied by an invisible orchestra. 

We will have finished this chapter when we shall have 
spoken of : 

LA MAISON DU RIRE. Prices : 50 centimes and 
T franc. Laughter is the only tenant of this exhibition. 
Everything which can call forth laughter, all the most 
funny and ridiculous processions of the Carnival are 
brought together for your enjoyment, and all the comic 
artists of the capital lend brilliancy of picture to a very 
appropriate frame by their side splitting comicalities in 
in recitation and song. 



CHAPTER V. 



THE TROCADERO. 



We shall enter to-day the enclosure of the Exposition 
by the Palace of the Trocadero, that last vestage of 1878. 
We see first a large edifice in the form of a circus reserved 

MADAGASCAR. 

for Madasgascar. It is connected with the palace by a 
foot-bridge and a rolling platform, and presents, in the 
centre, a large space surrounded by a canvas, painted in 
panorama, representing the capture of Tananarive. It shows 
the exact position occupied by the French troops before the 
capital of Hovas the 30th of September, 1895, and it was 
executed on the spot with scrupulous exactness by Mr. 
L. Tinayre, a painter who accompanied the exhibition. 
Twelve dioramas make the central panorama and repre- 
sent the principle episodes of the campaign. Round about 
the panorama the exterior galleries contain different prod- 
ucts of that great island. Each group gives a lively and 
faithful picture of existence there. In returning, on the 
right, let us take a look at the panorama of the Congo, 
or of the Mission Marchand, which, painted by Castellani, 
ijrings out in eleven successive pictures this heroic expe- 
dition across the Dark Continent. 

PANORAMA DU CONGO (Mission Marchand). 

Entrance, i franc. The ground floor is entirely re- 
served to Dioramas: A fire on the road to Majunga, the 
Quillon with Captain Baratier and the Painter Castellani 
on board; Menelick; the Faidherbe, and last of all, the 
triumphant march of Major Marchand, etc. 

On the first floor is the Panorama properly speaking: 
the embarking of the Mission Marchand on the Ouban- 
ghi. 

After having injoyed this work, we should advise you 
now in entering the Palace of the Trocadero to go to the 
central terrace and thence take a look at the colonial ex- 
position as a whole. On your left are the foreign colonies 
and on your right the French colonies. In honor of our 
most illustrious guests, let us turn to the left and visit the 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 



SIBERIAN PALACE. 



35 



iiiagniiicent palace of Asiatic Russia, the Siberian Palace. 
In a pure Russian style it represents in some sort a Siber- 
ian city, of which all the structures are supported by tow- 
ers and walls (Kremlin). It is in fact a partial recon- 
struction of the Kremlin, at Moscow, on a scale approach- 
ing that of the original, since some of the towers reach an 
altitude of 150 feet. On the left of the principal entrance 
is found a hall of reception destined for the Czar, in ac- 
cordance with an ancient Russian usage, which gives right 
of access to the Emperor to the first peasant proprietor 
who comes. Opposite to this principal entrance is a vast 
courtyard, with a Russian restaurant and a balcony on 
which the best orchestra of St. Petersburg will play, that 
of Count Cheremetieff. On the right a hall with the be- 
longings of the imperial family, and an exhibition of all the 
products of their properties. Then a hall for the petroleum 
of Nobel, a diorama of his factories, views of Bakou the 
Temples, lighted by fire. On the left two halls devoted 
to Siberia properly so-called and' to Northern Siberia. 
Finally three halls reserved to scientific exhibits or to the 
technical reproduction of the building up of the trans-Si- 
berian Railway, with panoramic views rigorously exact of 
the journey across and of Vladivostock. In order to com- 
plete this view it will be necessary to enter under the Tower 
of the Clock by a gate especially reserved for that into the 
exhibit of the trans-Siberian Railway. You get into a train 
complete (Moscou-Chine) of the company of Wagons- 
lits, and by an ingenious artifice you see unrolled before 
you the gigantic panorama of this long voyage, with stops 
at the different stations, with all their local color, and you 
seem to descend at the terminal point at a Chinese station. 

CHINA. 

China has two palaces, a large and a small. In order to 
avoid the unfortunate Chinese style, the architect con- 
ceived the idea of reproducing the Temple of the Black 
Dragon, with some details borrowed from the Imperial 
palaces. The pavilion, with two roofs, is an exact copy of 
the six pavilions which, taken as a whole, make the Im- 
perial palace. There can be seen in the interior a series 
of shops, where the industrious Chinese are at work under 
your very eyes. Let us retrace our steps in the central alley 
of the Trocadero and visit the fine exhibit of the Dutch 
East India, which contains for that matter all Holland. 



36 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

DUTCH EAST INDIA. 

Three buildings are before us. In the middle background, 
on two terraces placed one above another, where aire seen 
reproductions or reconstructions of the ruins of Pramba- 
nani in Java and the celebrated Temple of Boro-Boudor. 
Here is the most remarkable specimen of Hindoo architec- 
ture in Java, the Temple of Djamdi-Sari. The casts, sculp- 
tures, motives of ornamentation were taken from the 
temple, which the vandalism of the Chinese had partly 
destroyed, and they form a whole hitherto unseen in Eu- 
rope. In the interior you will admire the sculptures and 
collections. The two other pavilions are types of a con- 
struction indigenous to the table-land of Padang (in Su- 
matraj> Each one of their four fronts represent a dif- 
ferent style of habitation. In the pavilion on the north 
are shown models of encampment, fortifications, ethno- 
graphic exhibits, mineralogical and agricultural exhibits. 
On the floor below the Japanese dancers and the musicians 
enable you to study the style of amusements in that coun- 
try. Taking the Avenue of Jena, which crosses the central 

TRANSVAAL. 

alley, we find ourselves at once in front of the principal 
pavilion of the Transvaal, containing exhibitions of the 
government, ethnographic collections; showing the prog- 
ress of the Republic of South Africa and the products of the 
country. Behind, a Boer farm of primitive construction, 
with all the details of the dwelling house, the principal 
room, the kitchen and the ovens for baking bread, the 
dining room, sleeping room and stable. Two other pa- 
vilions are given up to the mining industry. In the first 
the mill, or Boccardage, where the rock is crushed; in the 
other, the dififerent treatments of amalgamation and the 
cyanide process. The walls without are covered with sta- 
tistical pictures, interesting as attesting the importance of 
the production of gold in this country, and the coveted 
riches, so hard to defend, which still lie buried in its depths. 
Let us go down below to see the gallery of a mine with the 
shaft for the extraction of the ore, and a gallery for car- 
rying it. After the Transvaal, in the midst of the gardens, 
let us visit the Portuguese colonies. They have no special 
type of architecture, yet they are original. There are to be 

PORTUGUESE COLONIES. 
found samples of the chief products of the Portuguese col- 
onies and those of Portugal itself, which did not find room 
enough on the Quay d'Orsay for their exhibition. By the 
side of this let us notice the Pavilion of the Oranges. On 



HOW TO SKF, EXPOSITION ALONE ^J 

MISSIONS. 

llie other side, near the Avenue of Jena, the Pavilion of 
ihe Missions groups the colonial work accomplished by 
the religions orders in the entire world. On the ground 
door six dioramas, painted by Amable and Halle, represent 
the missions at Tonkin, in China, in Senegambia, Madagas- 
car, in Oceanica. Up one llight the principal hall contains 
historical souvenirs, collections, specimens of scholastic 
work or of other kinds In order not to come back into 
I his out of the way place, let us point out that in going be- 
hind the wing of the Trocadero there is to be seen an ex- 
liibit of the coal mines of France, very curious to see, with 
their mining shafts, which give you an illusion of the real; 

COAL-PITS 

The whole of this extremely interesting Exhibition is 
subterranean. Entrance, i franc. 

It represents a Coal-Pit, with all its means of locomo- 
tion, the miners' work inside the Pit, and also some Etrus- 
can Tombstones; in fact, this Exhibition is a reconstitution 
of everything connected with subterranean digging. 

LIGHT HOUSES. 

Situated at the corner of the Trocadero, behind Rus- 
sian Asia, the Light-Houses' Exhibition has also and prin- 
cipally a restrospectixe exhibition. First of all is repre- 
sented the Light-House from the He Vierge, facing the 
Abberw'rachjopposite the Hoiel des Anges, in the bay itself 
at the confluence of the English Channel and the Atlan- 
tic; that island enjoyed for a time a certain reputation 
on account of the large quantity of rabbits who dwelt 
here. At the side is Mount Saint-Clair's Light-House and 
all the instruments and apparatus employed at Saint- 
Mathieu and Lizard. In fact all the models of Light- 
Houses with revolving lights and projections. 

The retrospective exhibition begins with the Cordou- 
an's Light-House, and thus enables us to follow the series 
of improvements and transformations of revolving and 
floating lights, resuming in their whole, all the modifica- 
tions and uses of Light-Houses since they have been to 
navigators and seafaring men of such serious utility. 

EGYPT. 

Having seen all that is interesting, let us resume our 

visit at the Avenue of Jena, on the corner of Rue Magde- 

bourg. Here the Egyptian palace attracts our attention. 

Preceded by a vast open space, where the sphynx and obel- 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 



39 



isks rear themselves, it is arranged in a style which recalls 
the temples of ancient Egypt. The principal facade was 
inspired by the Temple of Dandour, the lat- 
eral and posterior fagade ' reproduce the Tem- 
ple of Philoe, with some designs trken from 
Karnak and Abydos. Let us enter by the imposing 
door. Behind you see a rectangular portico, with columns, 
a covered gallery around a vast court yard, where are 
found displayed the agricultural and mjmufactured prod- 
ucts, the objects of art, the manuscript, the weapons, etc., 
of Egypt and of the Soudan. At the other end a stairway 
<akes us to the galleries above. Without do not fail to have 
poii?ted out to you the entrance to the cellars, where the 
funeral chambers of the ancient and modern dynasties are 
reproduced. Near the temple a Bazaar in pure Arabian 
style, whose facades extend to the Avenue of Jena, is separ- 
ated on the left by the Place of the Temple. Tbe entrance 
in the centre is a reproduction of that at Cairo; at the angle 
a handsome fountain. On the ground tloor a vast court- 
yard or patio, covered with tents of the Arabs devoted, 
like the galleries up one flight, to the sale of merchandise. 
On the side of the Avenue of Jena, look at a perfect repro- 
duction of the salon of the French minister at Cairo. A 
third monument is the theatre, in the style of ancient Egypt 
with a vast stage and luxurious boxes. Fine spectacles 
are given here, Arabian, Soudanese and ancient Egyptian. 

JAPAN. 

Up one flight, on a covered balcony, you must have seen 
the pavilion reserved for Japan. Its presence here con- 
tradicts the classification of this group as reserved to for- 
eign colonies, a contradiction perhaps consolatory to the 
Transvaal and also to China. For no one questions now 
the independence of the Japanese, that warlike people. 
Here is a veritable little city, constructed after the plan of 
Mr. Hayashi; a palace of Japanese art of the 7th century, 
reproducing the Kondo. an ancient temple, which exists 
at Nara and containing the national exhibition of fine arts 
(ancient and modern), and a host of objects hard to be 
seen even in Japan, for there they are carefully shut up in 
museums not easy of access. This palace is wholly of 
wood, of two stories, gilded externally and ornamented in 
its lower parts by the lotus, that symbolic plant, and in 
its upper part by sculptures representing Japanese god- 
desses. Tn the first pavilion, the Japanese serve you black 
and green tea; in the second, a wine, made of rice; the 
third is given over to a sort of general Japanese bazaar. 




|:i|^K' 




HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 4 I 

Let US continue our route by the old quay. We see on the 
left, overlooking the Seine, the ' .YH]3Ufl9 

MOVING PANORAMAS (Voyages Auimes). 

Entrance, i franc during the day, 2 francs at night. 
Some cinematographic projections enable the visitor to 
ramble through the most enchanting sites: Pyrennees, 
Provence, Vosges, Auvergne, Dauphine, etc., the whole 
accompanied by beautiful music. 

On the first floor a refined and select orchestra accom- 
panies the ever charming melodies, however old they may 
be, and which are sung with such taste, sentiment and 
feeling by Mesdames Mielle and Suzanne d'Albray. 

This is a picturesque view of France, unroling itself in the 
is a picturesque view of France, which unrolls itself in the 
interior before our eyes: Savoy, Dauphiny, Vosges, Bre- 
tagne, Auvergne, Pyrenees, Province and Cote d'Azur, all 
our charming landscapes, sung in appropriate verse with 
a musical accompaniment, give our guests, and also we 
ourselves, who perchance need it, an idea of the natural 

ENGLISH COLONIES. 

splendors of France. Opposite, to the right, is our neigh- 
bor, England, who by her palace of the Indies, ranged be- 
hind the two pavilions reserved for Canada and Western 
Australia, brings before our eyes a worthy proof of her 
power and her colonial wealth. The palace is in beautiful 
Indian style. Its interior rivals in beauty its exterior, 
thanks to the efforts of the merchants of Calcutta and the 
great cities of Flindostan. The native states of Baroda and 
of the Punjab have contributed works of art. Cashmere 
has furnished an appropriate central piece, in the form of 
a collection of rare carpets from Srinagar. A door placed 
in the axis of the grand entrance permits crossing the 
central avenue and entering the pavilion of Canada. The 
products of the latter are curious to see, particularly a 
handsome and unique collection of handsome animals. On 
the right side, Western Australia exhibits specimens of its 
red woods, so much sought after by cabinet makers. We 
now go out by the way at right angles to the central ave- 
nue, opposite the Transvaal, and, turning to the left, we 
go as far as the centre of the great basin. Now, we enter 
into the part reserved for the French colonies, and we 
have on our left and our right the two pavilions of .Algeria. 

ALGERIA. 

This country occupies the place she so well merits, the 



HOW TO SliE EXPOSITION ALONE 43 

place of honor. The pavilion on the left is the official pa- 
vilion. It is a fine specimen of Arabian architecture, and is 
surmounted by a handsome reproduction of the miniarette 
of Sidi-bou-Medine, near Tlemcen. The interior presents 
a succession of Oriental courts, bordered by colonnades 
and porticos and ornamented by faiences, painted with hap- 
py efYects. On entering you see the agricultural exhibits; 
that of leather is on the left and on the right. It is an ex- 
hibition of private enterprise. Then comes that of the as- 
sociations and societies of agriculture; then the exhibition 
of forestry (both private and of the State). Finally, the 
exhibition of the arts m general, with a map in relief of 
Algeria and the exhibition of the school labors. Tradition- 
al art allies itself here to comfort. The old Algerian furni- 
ture, the sandal wood boxes, the carpets, ancient and mod- 
ern, the thick carpets, and in the midst a reservoir whence 
runs out a limpid stream of water; this whole gives you the 
impression of having entered into the house of a rich citi- 
zen of the Orient. Below, the hall reserved to archeolog- 
ical discoveries will give you a glance at the work that 
Algiers has done and is carrying on in this direction. The 
excavations at Timgad furnish a rich instance of it. All 
about in the cellars is the exhibit of wines. The other 
pavilion, on the other side of the central way, represents 
a real Algerian city in miniature, with its houses, its domes, 
ifs minarets, its winding and sloping street, which recalls 
to mind that leading from Casbah to Algiers. The Moor- 
ish cafes, the native orchestras, the Aissaouas, the dancers 
du ventre form naturally the chief attractions. However, 
shops containing the small trades of the country open 
all around and are no less curious to see. At the northern 
extremity the stereorama shows on a moving canvas the 
divers aspects of the coast of Algiers. We pass on now, 
going out at the rear of the pavilion of Algiers, to the sec- 

TUNISIA. 

ond jewel of our colonial crown. Tunisia. Under the 
direction of the Commisiioner, Dr. Loir, with Mr. Roger 
Martin as Assistant Commissioner, the architect, Mr. Sala- 
din. has restored with especial ability the purest Arabian 
architecture. Five pavilions make this up. The most im- 
portant is that placed at the bottom of the court, and 
which is given up to an exhibit of commerce and indus- 
try. It is a faithful reproduction of the Masque of Sidi- 
Mahres, at Tunis. It contains all the products of the Tu- 
nisian coast, oils, wools and wines. Besides, it is the build- 
ing devoted to archeology, where are contained objects be- 



44 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

longing to the Carthagenian, Roman and Arabian epochi 
The front is a reproduction of the Zaouia (school) of Sidi- 
ali-ben-Hassen at Sfax. Then comes a Turkish cafe, the 
details of which are exact reproductions of casts taken 
from Manouba. The Palace of Instruction is a house 
in 7'unis, reproduced exactly as it is. A passageway takes 
you to the Souk, an Arabian market, which is very inter- 
esting. In the little, winding streets are many small shops, 
set up in the basements, where may be found the natives, 
busy at their various trades: carpet weavers, tinsmiths from 
Kairouan, enamelers, shoemakers from Beja, calling out to 
one another in a confusion which would make a lively 
illusion of the reality. A slave market is installed just as 
it can be seen in Tunis. Passing in the midst of the 
jewelers, the tailors, the confectioners, we go up by the 
other extremity to admire a street from Tunis, copied just 
as it exists and which opens into the exhibition of the 

SOUDAN AND SENEGAL. 

Soudan and of Senegal. This pavilion is remarkable for its 
original style of architecture, which is borrowed from the 
Soudanese and contains an exhibit of the products of that 
country, as interesting as it is mysterious. Weapons and 
rich stuffs manufactured by the natives will not fail to at- 
tract your attention. Then a little to the left we come to 

FRENCH EAST INDIES. 

the French East Indies. This pavilion, by its importance 
and its interest, is a worthy rival of those of Plolland and 
England. It was set up to expose the senseless but widely 
prevailing opinion that our acquisitions in the Indies are 
no longer of any importance. After the colossal work of 
Dupleix, which unfortunately passed into the hands of our 
rivals, the relative smallness of our remaining territories 
is certainly to be regretted. But the economical and com- 
mercial value of those market towns must not be forgotten. 
The exhibit of the French East Indies is here to recall this 
to our mind. An interesting reproduction of our establish- 
ments at Pondichery, Chandernagor, Mahe, Kari-kal, 
Yanaon, with the customs of the Indies, its life, its man- 
ners, is presented to us. A pagoda from Vishnu forms 
the principal edifice; its dome rears itself more than 150 
feet and its ornaments are made from casts taken in the 
places themselves. You can take part in the ceremonies 
conducted by the religious sect of the Brahmins with the 
assistance of the Bayaderes. These last, handsome, grace- 



nOVV TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 45 

lul, covered with jewels, dance in their voluptuous fashior 
their religious dances. A large crypt occupies the base- 
ment of the pagoda. Vou can see there a museum of wax- 
works, where fakirs, yogis, widows, accepting the suttee, 
or funeral pile, are represented to you as evidence of the 
superstitious fanaticism and attachment to their religious 
creeds of these ancient countries. Before climbing up to 
continue our visit to the colonial pavilions, one word on 
Andalusia at the time of the Moors, situated on the quay 
of Passy, to the left of the French East Indies. It is an 
interesting reproduction which brings back to life the 
Arabian civilization as it existed during the fifteenth cen- 
tury in Southern Spain. To accomplish this reproduction 
the rich treasures which the monuments of Cordova, Se- 
ville and Granada have preserved have been liberally 
drawn on. The entrance is an exact reproduction of the 
celebrated gate of the Alcazar, at Seville. A reproduction 
of the famous Giralda of that same city gives a tower 170 
feet high, surmounted by a gilded statue which turns at 
every change of the wind. The entrance takes us into a 
vast patio, serving as a court of honor, whose white decor- 
ations are lighted up at night with a thousand colors. On 
the walls the celebrated Azuletos, or windows of Seville. 
Let us examine the details. There is the place reserved for 
the tournaments between the Moors and the Chevaliers, to 
hunting the gazelle with slougis (deer hounds), the at- 
tack upon a caravan by the Touaregs, those bandits too 
well known. Then the quarter of the Aissouas, with their 
gourbis (houses) and Moorish shops, their serpent charm- 
ers, their glass eaters, their Jewish dancers in brilliant 
costume. The Spanish village, the theatre, where the 
classic dance of La Mancha (les seguidillas manchegas) is 
represented, completes this curious reproduction. In go- 

DAHOMEY. 

ing back toward the Trocadero we shall see Dahomay and 
its dependencies, with a reproduction of the Tower of the 
Sacrifices at Abomey and the ramparts of Kotonoue. On 
the left of this the pavilion of the Colonial Press, where 
explorers come and at interesting conferences tell the story 
of their travels. To the right, the small African pavilions 
of the Cote d'lvoire, then the Cote Occidental Africaine 
and of Guinea, near which that of the French Alliance 
rears itself. We cross the Boulevard Delessert. and we 

DIORAMA OF THE COLONIES. 

come to the Diorama of the Colonies, composed of four 




o 



HOW TO SEK EXPOSITION ALONE 47 

halls reserved for the four following small colonies: Saint- 
Pierre and Miquelon (Fisheries), Somalis (Djibouti), 
Mayotte and Comore (Cane Sugar), I'Oceanie Francaise 
(Taiti), (Pearl Fisheries). Behind this group is found the 

INDOCHINA. 

important exhibition of Indo-China; it includes four sec- 
tions. In the middle Cochin-China and Annam. On the 
right Tonkin, where is to be found a reproduction of 
the pagoda of Tino-loun. Behind Cambodge, with its 
sacred mountain, surmounted by pagoda; on the left the 
Cambodgian Theatre, a reproduction of the pagoda of 
Angkor. Here are given accurate representations from 
the Royal Theatre at Tnom-Penh by the aid of 60 artists 
brought here at great expense. In annexes of the theatre 
is a collection of objects of art from Cambodge, bronzes, 
furniture, musical inscruments, tissues of silk, braided car- 

ANTILLES. 

pets. Between Cambodge, Indo-China and the central 
passageway of the Trocadero, let us visit the four pavilions 
01 Guiana, of Guadeloupe, of Martinicjue and of the Island 
of the Re-union, our ancient colonies, where are to be 
seen the best known of their products, rum, cofifee, etc. 
Then, let us go towards the Trocadero, keeping in mind 
that near the basin, opposite the exhibit of Martinique, is 
one of those stairways which take us down into the coal 
mines, and let us stop at the Palace of the Minister of the 

MINISTER OF THE COLONIES. 

Colonies. Before the principal front is found a maquette 
by Mr. Marqueste of the monument erected to the memory 
of the conciuerors of Madagascar. Let us enter the pavil- 
ion. Tlie cupola, painted by Cormon, represents the four 
quarters of the globe. Three halls are reserved for the 
colonial office. In the galleries are placed busts of the 
principal French colonists from the sixteenth century. At 
.the end of this gallery is a winter garden, where one can 
see the coffee tree in its different stages of growth. In 
front of the wing of the Trocadero, the pavilion adjoining 
the one which we have just visited is reserved for 

NEW CALIDONIA 

There are first of all exhibited all the products of the 
Colony, such as: India-rubber, Tobacco. Vanilla, Ginger, 
etc., then all the metallurgic and auriferous specimens 
produced by this rich island. This Exhibition is com- 



48 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

pleted by extracts of rare woods and an elegant Pavilion, 
where you can rest whilst sipping some most delicious 
coffee. The display of coffee, one of the principal 
sources of wealth of this country with a future, is one of 
the most complete. Finally, before going back to our 
starting point, we ought not to overlook the pavilion of 
the Congo. It is located at the corner of Rue Franklin, 
behind the end of the wing of the Trocadero which we have 
in front of us. It seems that we have failed once more to 
give its just dues to this mysterious country; the Belgians 
have been able to draw out of their Congo large profits 
which we are still waiting for from the share which fell 
to us. The ivories, palm oils and collections shown there 
are, however, a pledge of the brilliant future which is re- 
served for that country.- • 



CHAPTER VI. 

ALL AROUND THE EIFFEL TOWER. 



ATTRACTIONS. 

Honor and Glory to the Mightiest! Before speaking of 
The God, a few words on the God Himself, I mean the 
Famous Eiffel Tower by speaking thus. The ascent to t" 
Tower is thrust upon one, because if you have a fine day, 
at an altitude of 300 metres (984 feet), you will be able to 
gaze on the grandiose Panorama of Paris decorated of ail 
its beauty. 

I need not tell you that the Eiffel Tower is not of recent 
erection, for it was the main feature of the 1889 Exhibition. 
Nevertheless the ascent remains as curious now as ever. 
From 9 a. m. until 11 p. m., you can ascend to the last 
platform, and it only takes you 7 minutes to reach it. Of 
course, you may, if you so wish it, ascend it by the stair- 
cases, but I should not advise it, for it is indeed a very 
tiring work. You may stop at either of the platforms- 
there are three altogether. From 8 p. m., the ascent to 
the third platform is no longer allowed, in fact no tickets 
are delivered after 10 p. m., for any of the platforms. 
The ticket offices are situated at the corner of each 
pillar, where are also all the lifts and where you can obtain 
every information respecting stoppages. 

PRICES OF ASCENTS. 

Sun., Holidays, 

Week- from before 

days. 11 a. m. 11 a. m. 

to after 

1 p. m. 1 p. m. 

As far as the first platform (lift or 

staircase) 2.00 i.oo 2.00 

From first to second platform (lift or 

staircase) 100 i.oo i.oo 

trom second platform to the top... 2.00 2.00 2.00 

The whole ascent 5.00 4.00 5.00 

On the first platform raised 57 metres above the ground, 
you will find all the comfort you may desire, either as res- 
taurants or theatre, for there is always there an attraction 
of some sort to induce you to stay there. 



50 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

It is from the second platform that you will be able to 
see to its better advantage the whole of the Exhibition. 

From the third you can judge of the whole of Paris, and 
provided you have a fme day you will be able to see some 
parts a long way from the GREAT CITY. Above your 
head are established some lighthouses, so to speak, pro- 
jecting very powerful rays of electrical light over the whole 
city. 

If you wish to make this ascent the object of a special 
visit, it would be best for you to reach the Exhibition by 
the doors 15 or t.j, or better still by the Pont d'lena. 

All around the Tower have been gathered what has been 
named THE ATTRACTIONS, which with THE RUE 
DE PARIS previously visited, makes up the whole of the 
entertaining part of the Exhibition. 

For this visit I will not follow the plan used for the 
other exhibitions, that is to say, tell you that when leaving 
one place you reach such and such another place, the map 
will be quite sufficient to determine the exact position of 
each respectively. I shall simply draw your attention to 
my itinerary : Leaving the Pont de I'Alma at the corner 
of the RUE DES NATIONS, I shall follow the quay as 
far as the PONT DTENA. There, I will turn round the 
EIFFEL TOWER, the same as the hands of a watch, to 
return and finish my ramble on the extension of the quay 
on the other side of the Pont d'lena. 

THE ATTRACTIONS. 

After we have passed the MEXICAN PAVILION, we 
find the PAVILION OF THE ARMY AND NAVY 
close to the HYGIENE, which is the first to draw our 
attention. It is really by this that I ought to begin this 
chapter; but as the MEXICAN PAVILION and the 
PAVILION OF THE PRESS were outside of the radius 
of our visit in the RUE DES NATIONS, allow me to 
describe them now. 

MEXICAN PAVILION. Once inside we find our- 
selves in the centre of a large hall covered with a glass 
dome and all round us a circular gallery overlooks the 
ground floor. A large reception room faces the Hall of 
Honor supported by white and pink pillars. At the en- 
trance are the cigars and cigarettes manufactures with 
pretty Carmen! The central part is especially reserved to 
the great Mexican industries; at the side of the reception 
room, where we will be able to see specimens of paintings 
and sculpture betraying talent and warmth, we see the 



HOW TO SEI-: EXPOSITION ALONE 5 I 

l)ai)er and cloth manufactures, whilst on the other side is 
the Military Exhibition adjoining that of Mines. Before 
ascending to the first floor, let us cast a glance on the 
exhibition of Photographs, Maps, Engravings, situated 
under the staircase. On the first floor are all the instru- 
ments of precision, embroideries, and all the products of 
the country; we will also be able to judge of the value of 
Mexican administrations, for each department has its 
show, including library, which shows us some very rich 
and interesting collections of Mexican books. 

Before leaving the MEXICAN PAVILION, we must 
not forget to mention that it contains also the exhibits of 
the REPUBLIC OF SALVADOR. 

. PAVILION OF THE PRESS. This Pavilion is most 
elegantly built and furnished. It has been erected by the 
PRESSE FRANCx-\ISE with a view to receive and wel- 
come their foreign contemporaries and put at the disposal 
of all the members of the Press luxurious rooms with well 
stocked libraries as well as all the comfort possible,— tele- 
graph, telephone, etc. 

PALACE OF THE HYGIENE. The Palace of the 
Hygiene is a little mixed in so far that it contains the 
models and apparatus for heating and ventilation, which 
however have a special exhibition of their own almost 
opposite and to the same side. On the ground floor we 
have all the apparatus, all the installations for heating and 
ventilating purposes, even electric ventilation such as 
used in large buildings, such as academies, museums, 
hospitals, etc. On the first floor is a stoves' exhibition, 
more particularly china stoves and ceramic. At the 
side is Class in, that of the Hygiene which is portioned 
out on the first and ground floors and where a SALON 
OF HONOR has been reserved to TFIE INSTITUT 
PASTEUR. Foreign powers have largely contributed to 
that class; on the other side of the street is an annex with 
other patents for heating and ventilation, and principally 
the Centenarian Museum close to an annex adjoining it 
of THE ARMY AND NAVY, whose principal Pavilion 
is right opposite us. On the ground floor is the whole 
material and armament of the Artillery, with explosives, 
together with a collective exhibition of motor cars for 
carrying forage, food, ammunition, etc.; further is the 
Military Engineers and everything connected with it, 
such as the drawing of bridges, railways construction, 
war balloons, wireless telegraphy and all optical signals as 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 53 

well as the flying pigeons from Meudon as used in case of 
war. Further still is Naval Engineering with the 
whole of the Hydraulic Exhibition, the theory of tor- 
pedoes, as well as the whole process relating to coast 
defence together with the Constructing Company of the 
Loire (dockyard). On the other side of the ground floor 
are established foreign nations, the most important ex- 
iiibition is that of Russia, which has even her Marine 
Pavilion in the annex of the pavilion we just spoke of a 
few minutes ago. 

Above, we find the Centenarian Museum, which is cer- 
tainly one of the most complete, whilst at the side has 
been established a Museurn of Hydrography and mapping, 
more particularly the map of the Etat-Major and all the 
instruments of precision used in surveying. 

In Class 120, close to, are the administrative services who 
have created there a large military picture with wax per- 
sonages (such as those of Grevin in Paris, Madame Tus- 
saud's in London), dressed in the dififerent uniforms. Still 
further on, Military Hygiene with its hospitals, tents and 
everything connected with it. Close to the two annexes of 
which we have spoken of, one for heating, the other for 
the Russian army, we find two smaller ones, Great Britain 
and Belgium. 

EXHIBITION SCHNEIDER. CREUZOT & CO. 

The Creuzot, whose director is M. Schneider, is, as every 
one knows, one of the largest metallurgic factories, if not 
the biggest, in the world. Its exhibition consists in 
models of the greatest part of its manufactures, and as 
the Creuzot manufactures a great deal for the French 
artillery, this exhibition will prove very attractive to those 
interested in it. 

PAVILION DE LA NAVIGATION. On the first 
floor is all the material for mercantile navy. There are 
also exhibited there the models invented by all the com- 
petitors to the PRIX ANTFIONY POLLOCK for the 
best instrument or apparatus for saving life. This prix 
was instituted by the heirs of Anthony Pollock, who died 
in the caastrophy of the " Bourgogne," and is of a value 
of 100.000 francs ($20,000). 

To decorate the staircase of Honor, they have used the 
ditiferent models of pleasure and private yacht.": of the 
French Yachting Squadron, and we have again just under 
the Dome an exhibition of the Suez Canal, of the Central 
Society for Saving Life at Sea, and last of all the Cen- 



54 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

lenarian Museum, side b side with riggings and cordages. 
Foreign nations are also represented there. On the first 
floor, the models of boats, steamers; the Transatlantic 
Company has there a very fine exhibition of water colore, 
representing the interior of mail boats, steamers, dock 
yards, etc. 

MESSAGERIES MARITIMES. In the exhibition 
presented by the Compagnie des Messageries Maritimes 
the goal has been to show the progress obtained in her 
steamers, that is the reason why on one side we notice a 
reproduction of her first boats, such as the "Pericles," and 
on the other side the new models such as the " Annam." 
The riggings, tastefully arranged, complete this exhibiti- 
tion. 

CHAMBRE DE COMMERCE. The Chambre de 
Commerce de Paris has been anxious to give an exhibi- 
tion of its different Bureaux; the whole is represented by 
photographs and reductions. 

We have reached the Pont d'lena. The Pavilion nearer 
to the Eififel Tower is that of the Government manufac- 
tures. The name by itself is a guide to the different 
products exhibited there and which are those made by 
the different Government manufactures, that is to say 
tobaccos, cigars, etc. At the side is the 

CREDIT LYONNAIS. The Credit Lyonnais has 
installed here a branch of the head office, where all trans- 
actions are carried out in exactly the same manner as 
at headquarters on the Boulevard des Italiens. 

PANORAMA DU TOUR DU MONDE. Admission: 
I and 2 francs. It is a reproduction of Japan, of the 
Chinese town of Shanghai, then Suez with the whole of 
the Canal, which unrolls itself before your eyes. In fact, 
as its name shows it, we enjoy a trip around the world. 

LE CHALET SUISSE. Le Chalet Suisse is the official 
Pavilion for Switzerland, it represents a Swiss villa, as we 
have seen them in the neighborhood of Montreux. 

THE ALPINE CLUB is the Pavilion of the Club of 
that name; it is divided into two very distinct parts, the 
Pavilion properly speaking and the dioramas. In the 
Pavilion are exhibited all the instruments necessary to 
the excursionist, and a great number of paintings re- 
presenting mountain scenery. The other section is re- 
served to panoramas and dioramas. We see in the grand 



I 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION AF.ONE 55 

panorama the Mont Blanc, whilst in the others are scenery 
representing the Pyrenees and the Alpes. 

SIAAl. There are two Pavilions connected by a foot 
i^ridge; they are Siani's official pavilions. In the large 
one are exhibited all the products of the country; the 
small one is a Siamese restaurant, such as those found in 
the country and where refreshments and meals remain 
exactly those peculiar to Siam. 

THE FRENCH AUTOMOBILE CLUB. The French 
Automobile Club, which has contributed to establish all 
regulations respecting automobile driving, has established 
there an exhibition of a character purely personal. 

THE LUMINOUS PALACE. Admission: i franc. 
This I'alace is entirely made of colored glass and brilliantly 
lighted. It IS really, at night, under the thousands of 
rajs of electric lights, a scene from Fairyland. Every- 
thing is made of glass and admirably imitates all original 
objects whatever they may be. Inside is a gigantic map 
of the world. 

Its neighbor is : 

LE PALAIS DU COSTUME, which is in every way 
as original as the Luminous Palace. Admission: i franc. 
This Palace combines the work of the whole of the Pa- 
risian trade. Exjiibited in proper show cases are the 
costumes and dresses of the different periods, together 
with the jewelry of the dilterent epochs. Underneath, on 
the ground fioor, is the great restaurant Champeaux and 
the Pavilion of Gage, the confectioner. 

Quite close is the Pavilion of 

LA MATERNITE BELGE and LES ARDOISIERES 
D'ANGERS (The Slate Quarries of Angersj, side by side, 
and at last of all, to tenninate the right side, 

SAN MARINO. This Pavilion is, so to speak, a re- 
production of the State Palace of San Marino; inside are 
exhibited dilTerent products of the country, such as 
WINES, OILS, etc., as well as old coins, medals and 
photographs. 

On the opposite side of the EIFFEL TOWER, the 
Comptoir d'Escompte has also established a branch, which 
carries out every banking or financial transaction, and 
which has been the subject of a special article in the 
Chapter: '•Useful Information." 



56 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

LE PALAIS DE L'OPTIQUE. M. Francois De- 
loncle, together with M. Gautier, fellow of the Bureau de 
Longitude, have constructed there a telescope 60 metres 
in length. It enables one to see the moon, as if it were 
quite close, and we can study the celestial map as easily 
as a geographical map. The admission is 2 francs. You 
cannot only study the celestial dome, but also the fast- 
nesses of the earth, and through a certain arrangement of 
glasses admire some light effects, which fairly carry you 
through Fairyland. 

MOROCCO. Morocco, which is officially represented 
in this Pavilion, has imitated on the ground floor the 
court yard of a rich Moorish house. The goods exhibited 
there are carpets, morocco leather, in fact all the products 
of the country. All round are hung photographs sent by 
the French Consul in Morocco. On the first floor is a 
Cafe-Restaurant where are served the refreshments and 
dishes peculiar to that country. 

VENICE IN PARIS. Admission: i franc. The name 
plainly tells us the contents of this Pavilion. It is a re- 
oroduction of Old Venice with its canals, gondolas and 
gondoliers. 

TRANSATLANTIC PANORAMA. Admission: i fr. 
The Transatlantic Panorama is the work of M. Poilpot, 
'who presents to us the landing of one of the Transatlantic 
Company's steamers in the bay of Algiers, with the whole 
of the panorama of the town as described before in 
Chapter XI. This panorama is completed by several dio- 
ramas on the ground floor. 

THE CINEORAMA. Admission: i and 2 francs, 
according to days and hours. It is a trip in a balloon 
inside the Cineorama itself, where, through a clever ar 
rangement, unrolling before your eyes, you see the scenery 
of the different countries just as you would see it from 
the car, supposing your balloon carried away into a vir- 
tiginous race. 

The Cineorama has as its neighbor the GAS Exhibition, 
whilst at the side we find 

THE TYROLIAN COTTAGE, which is a reproduc- 
tion of an old Tyrolian manor at the time of the Renais- 
sance. On the ground floor is a tasting-saloon, where 
Tyrolian Wines alone are served; the first floor is the 
reproduction of a Chapel, the Princes' room and a jewelry 
exhibition. Continuing our visit, we reach the Palais de 
la Femme (Woman's Palace). 



now TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 57 

PALAIS DE LA FEMME. Admission : i franc. It 
is the history of WOMAN, not only in an historical point 
of view, in her transformation, but also in is WOMAN in 
practical life, her role, her wants, her longings, her duties. 
She is principally represented on the ground floor in the 
different occupations which she has held in more recent 
years, whilst at the side are exhibited the Glories of Feini- 
ninity. On the first floor is a Lecture Hall for Women 
with an exhibition of Woman's handicraft. 

ECUADOR. It is the national Pavilion of the Re- 
public of Ecuador, which, at the instigation of M. Medina, 
has sheltered the Republic of NICARAGUA. There are 
exhibited all the natural products of these two countries, 
so fertile and so rich in resources. 

RUSSIAN ALCHOOLS. It is the exhibition of all 
the systems and processes used in Russia for the distilla- 
tion of all alcoholic products, which are exhibited side by 
side with the apparatus which produces them. 

THE CERAMIC is the complete history of the Ceramic 
Art. 

TOURING CLUB. The Touring Club has a very 
elegant and handsome Pavilion for the use of its members 
and guests. 

We have ended our ramble by the EIFFEL TOWER; 
there only remains to see close to door 27 the MARE- 
ORAMA. the work of Hugo d'Alesy. Admission: 2 and 
4 francs. Thanks to a most ingenious invention, we find 
ourselves on the deck of a steamer animated with pitching 
and rolling, such as we would at sea, and we can seen be- 
fore us passing the coasts of Algiers, in fact we go through 
nil the peripatetics of a sea voyage. Before visiting the 
part situated on the very bank of the Seine on the left 
of the Pont d'lena, we only have to enter the 

CELESTIAL GLOBE. We see there all the marvels 
of the world, a miniature reproduction of the Planets, 
Stars, Seas, Countries, etc. 

We have now to visit the bank of the Seine as far as the 
Pont d'lena. First of all: 

PAVILION OF FORESTRY. HUNTING AND 
FISHING. This magnificent Palace, whose bas-reliefs 



58 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

represent the pleasures of Nimrod, dominates the river 
and is completed by two elegant pavilions decorated in 
the same manner. On the ground floor is the Exhibition 
of the Department of Agriculture, with a show of all the 
processes in use for the propagation of forestry, with all 
their picturesque scenery such as Foresters' Lodges, saw- 
mills, etc. Some dioramas and plans in relief together 
with photographs of the works executed to fight against 
the encroachements of the sea on our coasts complete 
this exhibition. Leaving the technical a side, we have 
the practical side, that is to say all the products of the 
forests, india-rubber, essences, cork and bark, dye 
products, etc. In the other part, on the ground floor, are 
ranged everything connected with fishing, and all that 
renders sea and rivers productive. We find splendid 
exhibits of fishing rods, trailing lines, nets, in fact every- 
thing necessary for fishing purposes. 

On the other side are all the products of the sea, 
fishes, shells, sponges, etc., will excite our admiration. 
Through the kindness of the Naval Secretary we have 
some photographs which enable us to live the life of the 
fisherman. Hunting and shooting has but a very small 
exhibition. We only find there the products of the 
chase, peltry manufactured into fur cloaks and coats 
such as those worn by men and women and also motor 
car drivers, male or female. 

Foreign Nations are divided between the first and the 
ground floor. The Centennial Museum is on the first 
floor, where we notice the transformation of the horns of 
animals into commercial products, the use of skins in the 
hat industry, specially hares and rabbits' skins; then all 
the arms and weapons of destruction with the material 
employed for their manufacture, together with the dif 
ferent ammunitions used. This exhibitidn is completed by 
a retrospective show separate from the other: long-bows 
and cross-bows, side-arms, armors and breast-plates. At 
the side is a small Pavilion, almost an annex of the 
first : 

L'OSTREICULTURE (Oyster Culture). The name 
is sufficient to tell us the object of this Pavilion; it is to 
show us the cultivation of oyster beds of Arcachonand 
and amongst others the Oyster Beds of Arcachon and 
Marennes. I wish to add, for those so inclined, that 
they may, there and then, partake of the luscious bivalve 
and compare the different qualities. 



HOW TO SEI-: EXPOSITION ALONE 59 

Here ends the chapter of the Attractions of the Eiffel 
Tower, but, as there are many other attractions adjoining 
directly or indirectly the Exhibition, and bordering the 
Champ de Mars, we shall refer the reader for a visit to 
the special chapter, entitled : "Attractions Outside the 
tixhibition." 



CHAPTER VII. 



THE PALACE OF THE CHAMP-DE-MARS. 



Let us drive to gate No. 24, which is on the avenue de 
SuiTren, opposite the southern support of the Eiflfel Tower, 
e'xactly on the corner of the Station of the Champ de 
Mars, where you can conveniently come from the station 
Saint-Lazare. Here we are within. Let us go on as far 
as the foot of the Eififel Tower; let us endeavor to go 
through in detail this part of the Exposition which ex- 
tends from the military school away at the other end on 
the right to the Eififel Tower, to which our backs are now 
turned. Before us is the Chateau d'eau, so wonderful in 
the evening under the thousand electric lights furnished 
by the palace of electricity, which is set up between the 
Chateau d'eau and the Hall of Festivals, which occupies 
the centre of the old Machinery Hall. To the right and 
to the left is a series of palace's, which, united one to an- 
other, seem to form a long palace on each side, the line of 
which is perpendicular at each end to the ancient Ma- 
chinery Hall, now become the Palace of Agriculture and 
of Food Products. Now that we have got an idea of the 
whole of this, let us take up each palace separately and let 
us begin by the nearest one. We will enter the long 
line of palaces on our right; the first is that of Letters and 
Sciences and of the Arts, whence We shall pass step by step 
into the following ones. Nevertheless, from time to time, 
we shall be able to go out on the right hand side to take 
a look at the annexes, which are arranged parallel to the 
palaces and bordering the avenue of Sufifern, just as when 
we get on the other line of palaces parallel to this (the 
one which a short time ago was on our left hand), we shall 
see a series of annexes bordering the avenue of la Bour- 
dennais. In these palaces we shall always find, with the 
French exhibit, a foreign exhibit of the same nature. 
These letter we shall speak of occasionally only. The 
Palaces of Letters, of Sciences and of the Arts: On the 
ground floor, we find on entering, instruments of music, 
the Centennial Museum, whjch occupies the gallery in the 
centre; then typography, the book department, Class 13, 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 6[ 

very complete with its work, comprising specimens of 
everything pertaining to the book-makers' art, from works 
expensively bound down to copies of illustrated journals, 
instruments of precision, a very handsome collection of 
coins and medals, and finally, a whole theatrical equip- 
ment. A moving platform will take us, without fatigue, 
to the first story where you will be able to see for yourself 
the progress made in Medicine and Surgery, and that with 
ilie more ease since the Centennial Exhibition of objects 
on the first floor above is distributed in exactly the same 
way as that on the ground floor. 

Side by side with this exhibition and on the same floor 
we find everything in the way of maps; maps of the world, 
geographical and cosmographical apparatus, and also a 
complete exhibition of typography. 

We shall not mention the annexes in the text unless they 
contain something special. The plan will serve to show 
you that there is an annex to be seen in the border of 
the avenue. Without going out of doors we pass on to 
the palace of 

EDUCATION AND INSTRUCTION. 

Up one flight are secondary instruction, superior in- 
struction, primary instruction and that of adults, which 
border the Centennial Museum, on the other side of which 
we find the foreign exhibitions and, as particularly worthy 
of mention, that of Great Britain, which is very interest- 
ing. On the ground floor we can see the enormous prog- 
ress made of late years in France in industrial and com- 
mercial instruction, artistic and agricultural instruction 
under the de Grignons; the institute of agronomy, Grand- 
jouan, Montpellier and others, and this with the more ease 
that the Centennial Museum, situated on the left, near by, 
at the beginning of the palace, shows us the progress 
made in all kinds of instruction. Here we will stop on 
our right, near the annexes, to visit the large restaurant 
with terraces, where the only beer sold is that brought 
from Munich. 

After having seen its neighbor, the Caoutchouc Russe, 
which shows us a laboratory and workshops, we will re- 
turn to the ground floor of the palace of chemical indus- 
tries, which shows to visitors, besides the Centennial Ex- 
hibition of its products, which is found in the central gal- 
lery, the process of making paper; then the display, so 
interesting, of tobaccos and matches, that of leathers and 
skins, and finally that of pharmacy and everything relat- 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 63 

lug lo pharmaceutical products; this, not finding sufficient 
space, has encroached on the first story in the space al- 
lotted to the foreign exhibits of these same products; thus 
everything on the ground floor is French. 

This ends our walk through this palace on the right; 
I ought now to conduct you into the galleries at right 
angles to this palace, which are found in the palace of 
electricity and the palace of machinery, but as I suppose 
that to visit the two sides of these palaces you will have 
found it necessary to go to the end, and then come back 
ni the opposite direction, I imagine that you will return on 
the side toward the Eififel Tower; we will then continue 
our visit by the palace on the left, which we will enter by 
the door on the left ot the EifTel Tower (as you look 
toward the Chateau d'Eau). It is the palace of Mines and 
Metallurgy. The whole of the centre of this palace is 
taken up by the Salon d'Honneur of the Metallurgy of 
France; it is entirely made up of the most imposing prod- 
ucts of the great factories of France. All about on the 
ground floor are other galleries filled with the mining dis- 
play, and also that of the quarries. This display is wholly 
French. Some part of the floor above is also occupied by 
the French metallurgical and mining display; the greater 
part of it, however, is occupied by the foreign display and 
the Centennial Museum. 

We have now reached the Fabrics and Tissues, but all 
along the palaces, on the right-hand side, there exists a 
special exhibition, which I should not like to pass un- 
niticed, that is: 

The Gas. — In this small pavilion, on the left of the Me- 
tallurgy and before reaching the Tissues and Fabrics, we 
find the whole of the Collective Exhibition of the gas, and 
all that derives from that industry, viz., light, heat, etc., etc. 
Let us return to the principal gallery, for it is now the 
Palace of Tissues and Fabrics, which will draw our atten- 
tion, and more particularly that of ladies. 

PALACE OF TISSUES AND FABRICS. 

On the ground floor, after leaving the central gallery, 
we find, first of all, everything connected with the manu- 
facture of tissues, that is to say, the inventions of Jac- 
quart's successors (the looms). Then follow all the proc- 
esses of manufacturing, rope-making and even perfum- 
ery. Everything works before your eyes; you see the 
looms in working order, you may compare the rough ma- 
terials and also examine in its whole, the entire process of 



64 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

manutacture required for the making up of fabrics. Close 
by we will find everything relating to clothing and spin- 
ning; there you will see flax and hemp, next to all the prod- 
ues of ropery; in a word, all the textile materials. Fur- 
ther on we step right into the middle of a large dry goods 
store; ladies' hats, flowers and trimmings, chemises, cor- 
sets, etc. (all that is required for the clothing of either 
man or woman). Still further, the magnificent and gor- 
geous silks and brocades, the finest textures, ribbons, vel- 
vets, plushes — there is enough there to captivate the eyes 
of the most refined woman, however hard to please she 
may be. We arrive then to a class more varied: embroid- 
eries and laces; side by side are the finest and richest 
laces, together with the priest's robes and chasubles, the 
whole with a background of the most exquisite curtains 
and guipures that any one would wish to see; on the other 
side of the central gallery is to be found everything con- 
nected with dyeing and the dressing of materials in their 
rough state, just as later on we will see dresses and clothes 
passing through the different stages of manufacture. 

Here, as well as in the majority of the other palaces, 
where we have ambled through together, we find in the 
cntre of the Centenarian Museum, framed, so to speak, by 
the foreign nations, which, individually, have an exhibi- 
tion in every way similar to the one we have just de- 
scribed. 

The same thing can be seen on the first floor, and almost 
placed identically as on the ground floor, but the position 
occupied by the foreign nations is very much larger. 
Hence, it will be very easy for us to reach the Palace of 
Mechanics. We are again in about the same place as 
where we were when we stopped in the palace on the 
right and after passing the Chemical Industries; you will 
now understand the reason which has led me to consider 
this place as our Point Terminus. In fact, the Palace of 
Mechanics, which will be now the object of our attention, 
is situated right and left of the Chateau d'Eau, and the 
two galleries, facing each other, communicate with the 
Palace of the Electricity. 

PALACE OF MECHANICS. 

This exhibition is divided, as I have just told you, in two 
very distinct parts; the one we are now in is exclusively re- 
served to France, whilst the other, symmetrical to the 
first, and situated on the other side of the Chateau d'Eau, 
is entirely occupied by foreign nations. We shall only 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 65 

give you, therefore, a description of the French section; 
however, we will call your attention to the Centenarian 
Museum placed in the longtitudinal gallery, just at the cor- 
ner of the Palace of the Electricity, on the first floor. 

Nevertheless I must warn visitors that those classes are 
portioned in such way that it is impossible, if one wishes 
to be brief, to give much details; that is to say, to com- 
pare between the ground Hoor and the first floor, because 
the same kinds of exhibits are scattered in both places. 
Vou will find, moreover, a complete annex of this exhibi- 
tion at Vincennes. In any case, permit me to point out 
that you will find there machinery and tools employed in 
the working of wood and metals, machines used in the 
production of electricity (either directly or indirectly), all 
the patented motors, including steam engines and loco- 
motives almost from its origin; in fact, everything pro- 
ducing strength and transmitting it. 

THE PALACE OF THE ELECTRICITY. 

On leaving the Palace of the Mechanics, we only have 
to turn to the right to find ourselves in the Palace of the 
Electricity, the soul of the Exhibition; it is, in fact, 
through the realization of this new invention, Child of the 
Genius of the century which' is just closing, that the 1900 
Exhibition has been able to surpass the previous one of 
1889. 

This marvellous palace, in which every inventor, 
French or foreign, every firm of repute, no matter its na- 
tionality, has had a share, supplies alone the whole of the 
Exhibition; it sheds a blaze of incandescent lights on all 
the magnificent treasures heaped up on each side of the 
Seine, from the Champs Elysees to the Trocadero, from 
the Invalides to the Champ de Mars, but also, and above 
all, it is to that palace that we are indebted to, when 
night has come, to enable us to see the Chateau d'Eau 
transformed into falls of purple and gold, a fairy scene 
realized beyond our expectation. 

The Centenarian Museum on the first floor will show 
us the whole of the rapid improvements obtained from the 
days of Graham and Armstrong, Volta and Leclancher, 
lo the superb dynamos which, nowadays, no longer leave 
any limits to transit or strength. 

Foreign nations are represented both on the ground 
iloor and the first floor. The whole of the history of elec- 
tricity and of the results achieved are put forth in the two 
stories, of this magnificent palace. Connected with the 



HOW TO SEK KXI'OSJ'l'lON ALONE 6/ 

pieceding gallery we find all the systems of production 
and mechanical use relating to electricity; all the practical 
and thcoric uses of the Electro-Chimie. 

The electric light which, during recent years, has ad- 
vanced with such rapid strides, is entirely exhibited on the 
ground floor. 

The first floor is more especially reserved to telegraph 
and telephone, in all their varieties, aerial or subterranean 
transmissions, marine cables, those wires which so marvel- 
lously carry the voice across the seas. 

Turning to your right, through a subterranean passage, 
in the centre of the gallery of the electricity, you can go 
under the Chateau d'Eau and admire all its details, for 
the visit is indeed well worth making. 

THE CHATEAU D'EAU. 

There is no necessity to enter into many explanations 
to recommend to your admiration this marvellous work of 
art executed by M. Paulin. 

From the Grotto, 30 metres higher than the level of the 
Champ de Mars, when night has spread its wings over the 
gay city, you will see and admire this magnificent water- 
fall, lighted up by electricity and offering to your enrap- 
tured mind thousands of colors blending harmoniously 
together and giving all the hues of a glorious rainbow. It 
is, indeed, a wonderful spectacle, far above all that our 
imagination could picture. 

We will now leave the Sublime for the Practical, by 
stepping inside the Palace of Agriculture and Alimenta- 
tions. Do not let us omit, however, to throw a glance 
and I0 admire (I speak to those businessly interested in 
it), those immense boilers which are placed on the right 
and left of the reception hall, situated in the very centre 
and behind the Palace of the Electricity. On the left is 
the building reserved to boilers; one called Usine La 
Bourdonnais (deriving its name from the Boulevard 
which encircles it), is occupied by French engineers, 
whilst foreign engineers exhibit in the other building 
called Usine Suffren. 

Those two large structures supply with steam the whole 
of the machinery working in the Exhibition, including the 
dynamos themselves of the Palace of the Electricity close 
by. 

RECEPTION HALL. 

A? we have had occasion to mention again the reception 
hall of the Palace of the Electricity, we cannot omit to 
mention that the United States take the largest share in 



8 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

this Exhibition. We see Edison's marvellous discoveries, 
German's radiographical invention (X-rays) close by, 
Marconi v»ith his wireless telegraphy — together with 
telephone in all its different applications. 

THE PALACE OF AGRICULTURE AND ALI- 
MENTATION. 

We have now almost eached the end of our promenade. 
It only remains for us to see the old Palace of Machinery 
of the 1889 exhibition transformed into the Palace of Ag- 
riculture and Alimentation. There again we find that the 
same arrangement prevails respecting exhibitors. For- 
eign nations are on the right, France on the left; but be- 
fore enterting into the details of this Exhibition, permit me 
to say a few words respecting this famous "Salle des 
Fetes" which separates French from foreign exhibitors. 
LA SALLE DES FETES. 

This hall, which occupies the centre of the old Palace of 
Machinery of the 1889 Exhibition, is quadrangular. When 
we have reached it by one of the four grand entrances, of 
which two are monumental and exclusively reserved to 
official rceptions, we find ourselves on a circular track. 
Above the door, four official boxes, one of them solely af- 
fected to the President of the French Republic; eight large 
tribunes are erected in the remaining spaces, and at the 
corner of the pylons, which alone form nearly the whole of 
the structure, are four smaller boxes. 

Let us return now to the Palace of Agriculture and 
Alimentation. The different exhibits of these classes are 
indeed too numerous to allow a reliable description, and 
1 will not worry the reader by so long an enumeration. 
Let it be understood, however, that all alimentary and 
agricultural products will be found there, classed according 
to their origin, belonging either to the animal or vegetable 
species. Amongst those products you will have the satis- 
faction of witnessing how to make bread, how to knead 
the fiour, and you will also find dioramas, panoramas, 
photographic views, all inclosed in a vessel constructed by 
the renowned and celebrated chocolate firm of Menier. 
To those fond of candies and sweets their temptation will 
sorely be tried by fortresses of nougat and caramels, 
whilst those seriously inclined will find agricultural statis- 
tics and everything connected with husbandry. They 
have even gone so far as to warn you against the destruc- 
tion of useful insects, by presenting them to you, together 
with all their products, whilst a very clever collection will 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 69 

enable you to distinguish and class parasitical plants and 
vegetables. All the above is exhibited on the ground 
lioor. I will add, however, that part of the material for 
agricultural and rural enterprises are classed on the first 
iloor, side by side with the agricultural industries and the 
culture of the vine. Behind that palace are two restau- 
rants, both equally good, I believe, and if your visit at the 
E.xhibition coincides with an evening "Fete," it will be 
wiser and better for you to rest and dine there, to await 
the waking of Phoebe, then go and admire the marvellous 
effect of the Chateau d'Eau and of the Palace of the Elec- 
tricity. 

Nevertheless, should you wish to go out of the Exhibi- 
tion, you will find three doors close by, one on your right 
(door 21), facing the Swiss Village, of which we will enter- 
tain you later on; the other, facing the "Salle des Fetes" 
(door 20). and the third (door 19) close to the moving plat- 
form. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



THE RUE DES NATIONS. 



On account of its special character, the Rue des Nations 
is, to my idea, the most important part of the Exhibition. 
It will require to be seen minutely and carefully, for that 
we need time, and it would therefore be better to conse- 
crate two days to it. 

In any case, I will take it for granted that you have 
entered the Exhibition by the Porte Monumentale, and 
hence following the shores of the Seine as far as the Pont 
des Invalides, you will cross it with me on 

LA RUE DES NATIONS 

We are now once more at the Monumental Gate, Place 
de la Concorde. Let us notice on going in that there is a 
separate entrance reserved for official occasions and great 
festival days; we drop our ticket at one of the thirty-two 
small gates, which are capable of admitting more than 
20,000 an hour to the Exposition, and we go straight ahead 
without stopping at the new gate or the new palace, con- 
tenting ourselves as we go along with the line floral dis- 
play which we go through as far as the Bridge of the 
Invalides. Let us cross this bridge on the foot bridge re- 
served for that purpose and devote our day to the foreign 
pavilions, which we have thus far only enumerated. To- 
day we shall examine them in detail. 

We will take, if you please, the first line of buildings, 
that which is found facing the Seine and built in part 
above the line of the Moulineaux, having as ground plan 
the admirable terrace already spoken of and having a 
basement located in the elevation near the quay. The first 

PALACE OF ITALY 

is the Palace of Italy, one of the largest of the Exposition. 
In designing it the architect was embarrassed by a choice 
among the wonderful masterpieces of that peninsula. The 
commission had the coquetry to set aside those that we 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 7 I 

all know and select an ogive style, very common in France 
but rare in Italy. The commission apparently undertook 
to show us that Italian Gothic art of the Sixteenth Century 
had left sufficient trace to inspire the building of a national 
palace on that line. The principal motive is a charming 
doorway, which is repeated on each front of the edifice. It 
is copied from a doorway of the Palace of the Doges at 
Venice. The scroll of the House of Savoy surmounts it. 
At each angle is a gilded cupola; a larger cupola sur- 
mounts the whole edifice, and is a reproduction of that 
one at St. Mark's Church in Venice. The whole interior 
is agreeably decorated with statues, mosaics, friezes, and 
the efTect is highly decorative. It forms a large hall, where 
all the manufactured products of commercial Italy are 
grouped together with the skill habitual with the descend- 

THE OTTOMAN PAVILION 

ants of the artists of the Renaissance. The Ottoman 
pavilion, which we come to next, is in the Turkish style 
of architecture at its most brilliant period, with its harmo- 
nious outlines, its white walls, and its glass in all colors. 
Iherc is everything to be seen in this delightful pavilion, 
from the Turkish restaurant to the Armenian Theatre, not 
omitting the costumes and weapons of the Janizaries and 
a panorama of the banks of the Bosphorus. We come now 

UNITED STATES 

to the national pavilion of the United States. On the 
ground floor on the front overlooking the Seine is a por- 
tico, a sort of triumphal arch, ornamented with large 
Corinthian columns, surmounted by a group representing 
the Goddess of Liberty on the car of progress. Under 
this portico has been placed an equestrian statue of Wash- 
ington. There is a large hall of the height of the monu- 
ment, surrounded by balconies on every story, admitting of 
access and covered with a dome decorated with historical 
pictures; on the right and on the left are smaller halls, 
which on the ground floor will be used for receptions. 
Two stairways and two elevators give access to the three 
stories. On the facade in the rear is a secondary door, 
giving access to the street. The structure is wholly of 
wood, with a foundation in cement. The whole is covered 
with plaster without. Within it is decorated with paintings 
on the walls, which, as well as the sculpture and all the 
parts of the buildings, are the work of Americans from 
American materials. The dome, excepting the decorated 
part is covered with sheets of metal. For lighting at night 




Eifii^ i-fWjl 



1^ Ai i^ags' 



Bosnia and Hungary. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 73 

there are lines of electric wire disposed in a way to bring: 
out the outline and the important features of the structure. 
The eagle, placed on top of the monument, has a spread of 
fifteen feet. The total height above the quay is 165 feet. 
The dome is 60 feet in diameter, and the group placed 
before the pavilion and crowning the Arch of Triumph is 

AUSTRIA 

90 feet high. The national pavilion of Austria comes next 
to that of the United States, and covers a superficial area 
of 800 yards. It was built after the plans of the chief archi- 
tect, Mr. L. Baumann, in a style recalling the eccentric 
architecture in Vienna of the Eighteenth Century. We see 
in it traces of the Imperial Palace, of the old university, of 
the Church of St. Charles and some other works. The 
basement is occupied by the Dreher Brewery and by a 
branch of the Leder Bank of Vienna. On the ground floor 
and one flight up are found exhibits of the Austrian press, 
of the watering places of Austria and Bohemia, of the city 
of Vienna, an exhibit of paintings of Austrian masters and 
one of the postal and telegraph departments. Let us add 
thai the participation of Austria in the Exposition shows 
itself also in the different industrial palaces, where a super- 
ficial space of 18,000 yards has been given her without in- 

BOSNIA 

eluding the Annex et Vincennes. The Palace of Bosnia, 
which we come to now, is a rustic structure of absolute 
authenticity, whose charm lies in the fact that it is a re- 
production of the house of a great Bosnian lord. The 
trimmings in wood, sculptured in the country itself, re- 
lieve the white tone of the rest of the building, while 
climbing plants give an agreeable appearance to this hand- 
some pavilion. The Government of Bosnia exposes here 
everything which touches its own administration and the 
large industrial establishments of the country: mines, agri- 
culture, control of tobaccos, railways, etc. The central 
hall is given up solely to the reception of the products of 
the School of Decorative Arts, which is the only one in the 
world devoted to Mussulman art. Here is a panarama of 
Scrajevo and pictures illustrating Bosnian life, without for- 
getting the restaurant in the basement, where a celebrated 
national orchestra can be heard. Let us stop a moment 

HUNGARY 

before the pavilion of Hungary, one of the most curious in 
this street, consisting of four wings, grouped about a 




b 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 75 

cloister in the Roman style. It should be added that this 
structure is destined to pass in review the development of 
Hungarian architecture, and to serve as a frame to this 
collection of historic monuments and works of art. The 
Gothic front, which faces the Seine, is brought out by a 
lower, 120 feet high, whose arcade overlooks the Corso 
which runs along the pavilion. To this tower will be at- 
tached a fine Gothic monument, the front of the Chapel 
of Kessa, with its ancient facade and its tower. The small 
construction which serves as a relief between the west and 
the south fronts, represents one of the entrances to the 
cathedral of Gyala-Feheivar. The western facade recalls 
the armory of Eperges, and, finally, after a tower repre- 
senting the one of the Church Serbe at Buda-Pest, we 
find on the Quay d'Orsay the principal facade, a restora- 
tion of the Roman door of the Church at laad. Let us go 
in by a vestibule which gives access to an interior court, 
which is surrounded by a charming and picturesque clois- 
ter. The halls for the exhibits reproduce the interiors of 
Hungarian monuments. The ceilings, the doors, the win- 
dows are all historic reproductions. Let us mention chiefly 
the Ffall of the Hussars, which serves as a reception salon 
for the Commissary General; the paintings and sculptured 
ornaments represent the deeds of the Hungarian hussars 

GREAT BRITAIN 

and trace out their noble exploits. The royal British pa- 
vilion reproduces, as we have already said, the facade of 
Knigston-House, built under James L, son of Mary Stuart. 
It will be open to the public, but it will serve especially as 
an offive for the Commissary General and a place of re- 
ception for the Prince of Wales and the Royal Commis- 
sion. The monumental stairway within and the furniture 
of the reception rooms are remarkable in all their details, 
both fc.r elegance and for comfort. Here may be seen 
works of art and rare collections belonging to the Prince 
of Wales, without forgetting weapons and jewels of enor- 

BELGIUM 

mous value. Flie Palace of Belgium represents one of the 
ni ft ancient monuments of the Sixteenth Century, the 
City Hall of Audenerde, which strikes the characteristic 
note of ancH-nt edifices in the municipalities of Belgium, 
with it^ high tower surmounted by a gilded knight. The 
ground floor contains three halls, of which two are separ- 
ated by a large hallway, giving access to the large stair- 
case. One of the halls is given over to the service of the 




The Swedish Palace, 



^^ HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE "J"] 

Press, and is used as a reading and writing room. The 
other two are given up to the exhibit. The first story con- 
tains the reception room. On a level with the river banks 
a number of Belgian brewers have established a Flemish 

NORWAY 

Cabaret, built in the style of this edifice. Norway shows 
us a pavilion wholly in wood, as does also her sister coun- 
try, Sweden. Tt is in the form of Chalet, with two spires, 
and recalls the dwellings of the country, at least those of 
larger proportions and handsomer ornamentation. On the 
ground floor a large gallery occupies the Place of the Way, 
which is a promenade on the Seine and opens out by three 
large entrances. On the first floor the whole length of the 
facade is a balcony, with corbels, having in its midst a pin- 
ion motive. The interior forms a large hall, where are 
seen the natural products of the country and panoramic 
pictures. Do not forget the restaurant established in the 
basement. Let us salute now the work of His Majesty, 

GERMANY 

William IT., for the plans for the German pavilion were 
inspected in their minutest details by the Emperor himself 
before they came to France. The monument is an example 
of architecture of the German Renaissance of the Fif- 
teenth and Sixteenth Centuries. Large pinions decorated 
in colors, roofs and little steeples in colored tiles, the whole 
making a belfry, give us the impression of one of those 
rich dwellings on the banks of the Rhine. The German 
exhibit is above all economic and social in its character, 
but it has an annex, retrospective in its character, and of 
great interest, for it has the peculiarity of being French. 
The Emperor has, in reality, sent from his numerous cas- 
tles seme of the pieces of furniture and works of art got 
together by Frederick the Great, and this feature of the 
exhiibit cc nstitutes one of the principal attractions of a 

SPAIN 
visit to the German pavilion. The royal Spanish pavilion 
is in the style of Spanish renaissance, and the details have 
been drawn from diver, of the most celebrated, historic 
and artistic monuments, the University of Alcala, the 
Alcazar of Toledo, the University and the Palace of the 
Dukes of Montery at Salamanca. The central building has 
in its m.idst a court, made of balustrades and columns, a 
very lofty tower and three smaller ones. The pavilion is 
intended for the receptions of the Royal Commissariat, 
and its decorations are an exhibit of retrospective art. 




The Roumanian Palace. 



i HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 79 

MONACO 

'he Priiicij)ality ol Monaco displays close by that of Spain 
a inoic modest structure, but one which none the less has 
Its charm, for it recalls to us the lovely cities of the 
Mediterranean coast — a white matting on which are de- 
tached depths of color, arcades, terraces, a tower whose 
grand outlines are borrowed from the Castle of the Princi- 
pality.. In the interior the products of this sunny land and 
the rich ethnographic collections assembled by Prince Al- 
bert of Monaco are /i^orthy attentive examination. 

SWEDEN 

has built a structure of the greatest originality, being 
wholly in red pine, even to the external covering, whose 
counterfeit slates are also of that wood. In the centre of 
the palace a large and high tower rears itself, flanked at a 
certain distance by four smaller towers, these latter con- 
nected with the large tower by foot bridges, thus giving 
the edifice a very picturesque appearance. Artificial gar- 
lands of leaves, lighted at night, hung in festoons around 
the pavilion, complete the decoration. In the interior one 
should visit the brewery in the basement, the hall where 
skillful embroiderers can be seen working under the eyes 
of the public, the dioramas so attractive, without forgetting 
the telephone bureau, united to all points of the Exposi- 
tion, an innovation quite "fin de siecle" for the Scandina- 
vian, riij G;eek pavilion puts before us no monument i-f 
antiquity. It represents rather one of the Byzantine 
churches so numerous before the fall of the Empire of the 
Orient, with itr- bricks in various colors, its soft tint, blend- 
ed with rose and turquoise, its princpial dome, its two 
small dome.s and its characteristic portico. Within, besides 
the i.r-iducts of the soil, are to be seen ancient master- 
pieces recently recovered at Delphi and at Olympus, the 
more bulky pieces of which have been arranged about the 

SERVIA 

monument on its exterior. Servia, which comes next, 
shows us also a pavilion in the Byzantine style, suggested 
by the religious monuments of Servia. It has a large 
central cupola and two smaller ones; the entrance orna- 
mented with Byzantine columns; a large central hall into 
which open four other rooms, each with a semi-circular 
ceiling. A rich interior decoration recalls the brilliant 
frescoes which still are to be found in certain sanctuaries. 
Here can be seen the products of industry, the products 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 8 I 

of agriculture, as well as d,i admirable collection of nation- 
al costumes. Here we are at the Bridge of Alma, and I 
would urge you to return now with me to see the build- 
ings in the second line, placed under the trees on the other 
side of the Rue des Nations. The pavilion of 

ROUMANIA 

is the work of Mr. Ferniige, the celebrated architect of the 
Exposition of 1889, whose task has been inspired by the 
most celebrated monuments of Roumania. The dome and 
the towers which surmount it are copied from the mar- 
velous church at Argis, the principal door and the frieses 
are reproduced from the Church of Jassy. The many col- 
ored carpentry work and the enameled bricks give an exact 
impression of that Oriental style which characterizes the 
Roumanian architecture. On the ground floor, at the 
left, are exhibited underground products and the process 
of treatmg them: petroleum, amber, alabaster, lignite, etc. 
On the right are the products of the soil: wood, leather, 
hides, etc. We see here a fine forestry map and some 
very interesting photographs. In the first story among the 
objects relatmg to literature, science and the arts, civil 
engineering, social economy, etc., we see the curious publi- 
cations of the Roumanian Academy and reductions of the 
great works of art executed in Roumania during these late 
years. Let us mention a very fine set of furniture carved 
in nutwood and a monumental door. There is also an an- 
cient piece of jewelry work, very celebrated, known under 
the name of the treasure of Petrossa. It is in solid gold, 
inlaid with precious stones, having in all probability be- 
longed to Alaric, King of the Visigoths, and a magnifi- 
cent illuminated manuscript of the Gospels, the work of the 
Queen of Romania. We will not leave the Balkans with- 

BULGARIA 

out visiting the pavilion of Bulgaria, which represents an 
elegant structure, very modern, very gay, and in a style 
absolutely new, ornamented with numerous openings, giv- 
ing very large lighting surface. The principal exhibitor 
from Bulgaria is Prince Ferdinand himself, thanks to his 
collections, his wines and the harvests from his properties. 
There are also to be seen here carpetings, costumes, agri- 
cultural products and rare perfumes. The pavilion of Fin- 

FINLAND 

land gives us a curious idea of that Russian province 
and furnishes an interesting specimen of local 



82 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

architecture. The PaviUon is constructed according 
to the custom of the country with double walls 
and double windows on account of the cold. The 
ceiling is made out of pieces of wood, the decorations are 
borrowed from the animal kingdom; bears, frogs, heads 
of reindeers, wolves, etc. The pavilion is especially de- 
voted to an exhibit of public instruction, which is widely 
diffused in Finland, the University of Helsingfors, its capi- 
tol, enjoying wide reputation. We find ourselves now in 

LUXEMBOURG 

front of the pavilion of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. 
We can admire this elegant structure, which seems to be a 
handsome city hall of a small city made up of several 
details taken from important monuments of their country 
of origin. With its large roofs and its tower in the form 
of a belfry, this pavilion certainly makes a very good figure 
by the side of its neighbors. Here is a rare building, the 
PERSIA 

pavilion of Persia. It represents a palace in actual exist- 
ence at Ispahan, and which is the admiration of travelers. 
It is composed of two stories, the entrance placed before a 
kiosque of music is the full height of the palace, 36 feet, 
and, like the whole front, is ornamented with pieces of 
pottery, reproduced exactly from the gate of a famous 
palace of Ispahan. We enter the hall of honor, ornamented 
with Oriental magnificence. We see here Persian carpets 
and pieces of faience, metallic reflexes unique in the world. 
This salon is destined for the use of the Shah during his 
stay in Paris. From the large salon we go to the bazar 
proper, where are found all the products of the soil and 
of the industries of the country. Before going away, let 
us stop on the terrace, where is a cofifee house. The ter- 
race supports two pavilions with colonnades, copied from 
those of the Palace of the Forty Columns at Ispahan. Un- 
like the great part of the other nations, Peru has not 
sought to reproduce her national architecture, which has 
no existence except in the religious monuments of the 

PERU 

Spanish era. The Peruvian pavilion is an elegant and 
convenient structure, which, after having furnished a shel- 
ter for the exhibition of Peru, will be taken down and sent 
to that country to be rebuilt there. It contains the miner- 
alogical researches of the country and certain textile and 
pharmaceutical products. Do not neglect the collections of 
exotic plants and flowers, as well as the kiosque containing 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 83 

PORTUGAL 

the restaurant. The pavilion of Portugal, which comes 
now and is near the Bridge of the Invalides, represents 
the colonial architecture of that country. The building is 
wholly of wood, representing stone and pottery together. 
We find here all the mining and agricultural products of 
the country, without forgetting its wines, which are known 
throughout the civilized world. The last pavilion of this 
not-to-be-forgotten series represents an original and com- 
fortable old-fashioned mansion. It is the pavilion of Den- 

DENMARK 

mark, placed just behind the pavilion of the United States. 
It offers this peculiarity: it was erected by subscription. 
They were generous donors who, apart from the general 
exhibit of which the government paid tlie cost, have met 
all the e.Kpense of this. In the interior we find a large 
hall, occupying both stories and containing an uninterrupt- 
ed gallery. Here is a salon for ladies, with all the comforts 
desirable, and also the permanent bureau of the society for 
building up the export of Danish products. This curious 
pavilion reflects great honor on Denmark, whose products 
installed in their respective classes have achieved consider- 
able success. 



CHAPTER IX. 



TBE ESPLANADE DES INVALIDES. 



For that visit we will advise those residing on the left 
shore of the Seine (it will very likely be the smallest 
number) to enter by door No. 5, which is placed at the 
corner of the Quai d'Orsay and the Pont Alexandre III.; 
the others, living on the right shore, will do wisely to 
enter the Exhibition by the Monumental Door or by the 
Entrance of the Champs Elysees, between the two pal- 
aces. Whatever the door selected, pass over the Pont 
Alexandre III. In any case, I shall suppose the visitor at 
the corner of the bridge on the left shore of the Seine. 
There, after having gone through the avenue facing him, 
he will have, right and left of him, the two long palaces, 
and I v/ill now ask him to stop with me a minute and as 
usual try to find his way about. 

We have on each side a long series of buildings, each of 
them forming a whole; right and left is an assemblage of 
palaces, gathered together exactly in the same fashion as 
on the Palace of the Champ de Mars. 

Nevertheless, let us remark, that to our left, under 
ground, is the station des Invalides; on our right, a little 
way behind us, is the entire Rue des Nations, where flags 
of all nationalities gaily and gracefully waving to the 
breeze give the Rue an appearance of gaiety and rejoicing; 
in the distance, facing us, stands majestically the Dome 
of the Hotel des Invalides. 

Entering the left wing of the palace on our left, we find 
an elegantly built construction, just on the border of the 
Seine; it is L'Art Dans la Rue (Art in the Street). We 
will have occasion later to return to that exhibition. 

First of all is the Furniture Palace, following immediately 
that of the Decoration. In the hall, on the ground floor, 
are placed the drawings and models of decorative carpen- 
try and carved ornaments. Further on we have roof- 
ings, audacious in erections, graceful in styles; then doors, 
gates, iron railings most beautifully carved and chiselled; 
we will call it the regular decoration for public buildings 
and dwellings. On the first floor we find Tapestry and 



86 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

Ornamentation in all its branches, whilst the ground floor 
is reserved to Furniture and the Centenarian Museum. At 
the end, always on the ground floor, but in that part of the 
palace following, so to speak, the first one, is an entirely 
dififerent style of exhibition. 

There, America and France vie with each other in the ex- 
hibition and possession of magnificent jewels, whilst right 
at the bottom, but on the right, we find everything con- 
cerning cutlery. 

This represents the whole of this right-hand side pal- 
ace. We will go through it again, room by room, for we 
shall be obliged to leave very often the principal gallery 
to see on our left the private exhibitions of large dry 
goods stores, as well as those special exhibitions which 
draw our attention when nearing the Invalides. 

The palace on the right is by far much easier to visit. 
The first gallery near the Seine is devoted to the Ceramic. 
All the other galleries are reserved to foreign nations 
whose exhibitions, symmetrical to those in the left palace, 
which belong to France. 

This rapid visit has been useful, for it will enable you to 
select the parts more likely to interest you by showing you 
their position, and thus ramble freely through every class. 
Let us now enter the pavilion bordering the Seine, 
"Art in the Street." 



L'ART DANS LA RUE. (ART IN THE STREET). 

Its principal entrance is situated between the Rue de 
Constantine and the Quai d'Orsay. Art in the Street re- 
calls to one's mind those popular fairs with all its glare 
and tinsel which were the delight of our childhood. 

The door, original and lightly erected, with glaring 
tones, attracts the eyes; the- interior decoration blends 
with the outside, and this Pavilion of "The Art in the 
Street" fully justifies the idea we formed whilst children 
at the old Fair Stalls. To call the entrance a door needs 
indeed an apology, for it is only an entrance, an opening, 
almost a palisade, which few paintings audaciously thrown 
on the boards lead the public to take for a Monumental 
Entrance, an opening covered, so to speak, of the tradi- 
tional peacock's feathers. 

The remainder of the avenue matches the entrance. 
Genius and Cleverness have replaced Ostentation and 
Display. if 11 



HOW TO SKE EXPOSITION ALONE 87 

It had firsi been intended to make the Art in the Street 
a real marvel, but necessity has limited Ambition, and to 
'iiy idea the work is far better as it stands. 

The aim of "The Art in the Street" was to recall, as I 
said before, those popular fairs, where we find side by- 
side shooting galleries and menageries; giants and dwarfs, 
bearded women and wrestlers, etc., etc. M. Colin, the de- 
signer, has fully grasped the idea, and treated the subject 
in a masterful way. He presents to us the ephemeral life 
of clowns and mountebanks. Close by is the news ven- 
der's stand, the same where in the morning we buy from 
the girl, risen too early to have had time to make a very 
elaboratfj coififure, the penny paper which she hands to us 
with a smile. Then we turn to the practical side of life. 
It is the "Correspondence" organized by M. Selmersheim, 
where one finds all the needful for writing, and further on, 
the I'ansian Inventions, which, under M. Sauvage's di- 
rections, recall the New Year, with its toys, its puzzles, 
ever new, ever cheap, that one always buys; in fact, Paris' 
latest whim! 

Now we have seen the Paris of the Boulevards on feast 
days, let us resume our ramble, which, although of a more 
serious character, will be none the less gay and interest- 
ing for all that (I speak more especially to ladies), as we 
shall step into the Jewelry Section. 

The fiist class to attract our attention is the Decoration, 
which ircludes, as we have already said, two distinct parts; 
regular decoration and furniture decoration. We could 
very well christen this place The Palace of the Decorative 
Art. We will start by the ground floor. It is there that 
is reviewed the whole of the Decorative Art, sculptural and 
ornamental, which concerns alike hardware and iron- 
mongc-y, even ornamental painting; that is to say, the 
decoration used in the most difficult items connected with 
building and habitations. We also find there the Mosaic, 
under ev( r> shape or form, with its hues and designs ever 
changing and occupying a more important stand than the 
one allotted previously to that work on the first floor; fur- 
ther on we come across a new transformation, I mean the 
Ceramic, which shows us in a most convincing manner 
that public buildings can be thus decorated at a minimum 
of cost. 

We have now passed into Class 70, which immediately 
follows the first. It contains everything connected with 
furnishir.g, carpets, tapestry, hangings, furniture, etc., etc. 
We even notice there the manufacturing materials used 
for those rich and valuable hangings and in which our 



88 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

Parisian dry goods stores are second to none; besides 
tissues, pi-operly speaking, we notice that an exhibition of 
carved, embossed and plain leather, used in the covering 
of chairs, etc., has found a very important place, and I 
will also add ,that the house in which the author of this 
Guide has its aparments, Le Lineoleum, 23, Boulevard des 
Italiens, has succeeded in presenting a show of its goods 
well worth noticing, not only on account of the finish, 
style and refinement, but also for the cheapness of its 
manufactures. 



THE GREAT DRY GOODS STORES. 

We must now leave the Principal Palace to look at and 
admire those Large Exhibitions presented by our great 
Parisiati stores, and which excel in showing their magnifi- 
cent goods and call forth the admiration not only of for- 
eigners, but— Parisians themselves, however much accus- 
tomed they may be to refined and handsome displays. 

The Louvre, the Bon-Marche, the Printemps, have re- 
constituted a marvellous Palace of Fashions. 

Entering the Grand Palace once more, we shall face all 
the models for lighting purposes, in all their shapes, 
form? and patents. Electricity is not, however, included 
in this Exhibition, as this mode of lighting is confined 
to its special palace: The Palace of Electricity. 

Vincennes (should you list to follow us there) will 
give us a better and larger idea of the new invention: 
"The Acetylene," where it can boast of having one of 
the foremost shows in that Annex. 

I shall not speak of Petroleum and its uses. Since 
"Oil" has been struck, it has had such a widespread fame 
that it wc uld be perfectly usless to worry the reader with 
any details about it, being well known by all, from the 
most civilized countries to the roughest and farthest; be- 
sides its progress for the last ten years has been so small 
and few, that all our readers must be perfectly aware of 
almost all its improvements; nevertheless, a glance at the 
very few new processes may prove of interest. 

Whilst we are still on the ground floor, allow me to 
mention Class 74, Apparatus and Models and Process for 
Heating and Ventilation. There are but very few repre- 
sented here, however, as they are more specially con- 
nected with Social Economy and Hygiene, where they fig- 
ure pron:inently. 

Before looking over the department reserved to cheap 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 89 

furniluix. which is placed at the end of the Palace, it 
would be more rational and practical to ascend at once to 
the first floor and admire the models exhibited by Tapes- 
trj' in general; that is to say, the work and decoration for 
luxuriouo furniture, for instance, drawing-rooms, ante- 
rooms, bedrooms, boudoirs (that very sanctum of woman), 
and study, nay, admire, the most perfect taste employed in 
the decorations of reception rooms and ball rooms, where 
everythin,-^- blends and harmonizes so well, and is calcu- 
lated to set forth to the better effect the dresses and adorn- 
ments of ladies, an art in which our Parisian firms so 
thoroughly excel; also the bedrooms, this apartment of 
"la Vie Intime," which deserves our praise as well as the 
boudoir style Louis XVI., the snuggest of all places. 

At the side we find an industry, one of the largest and 
most important in France, one to which we are indebted 
for breaking the uniformity and monotony of the walls in 
our apartments! I have mentioned the wall papers 
brought by the French artists to such a high degree of 
refinement. 

Further on, still on the first floor, we see the Stained 
Glass Windows. Often, when visiting churches, we have 
remained in ecstasy before those magnificent stained win- 
dows representing Christ, the Apostles, the Stations to 
Calvary, etc., but nowhere shall we find stained glasses 
with warmer tones, with more delicate finish and execu- 
tion than those which will meet the visitors' eyes at the 
Paris Exhibition of 1900; for they are in every way worthy 
of Bernard Palissy, this clever and famous artist. 

There remains to be seen the cheap furniture and costly 
articles, both exhibitions will be worthy your attention for 
the whole of the firms in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine have 
endeavored to vie with one another. 

I have already told you that the Palace opposite is re-, 
served to Foreign Exhibits, symmetrical to the French, 
which wc have just described. 

In the first two rooms of the Palace, on your right, are 
gathered the Ceramic, already seen on the ground floor, 
and further on, glass wares and stained glasses. 

We must not leave the Palais des Tnvalides without 
casting a glance on the three stalls bordering the Rue de 
Constantine. First is the "Mas Provengal." renowned res- 
taurant cf Southern France, reputed for its good table and 
harmonious and melodious singing: a little further on is 
the "Maison Arlesienne;" useless to enter into great or 
numerous details, when the word "Aries" is pronounced, 
we ar^ every one of us well aware of its meaning; respect- 



90 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

ing the "Auberge des Cadets," to present it to you in an 
adequate manner, it would be necessary that I should call 
to contribution Coquelin Aine, the famous Cyrano de Ber- 
gerac. I had much rather let you enter it alone and judge 
for yourself. 

Xhe Guide to the Exhibition is ended; before closing 
these pages, which may perhaps have appeared to you, 
either too long or too insufficient, allow me, reader, to re- 
peat anevv my request made at the end of the first part of 
this work: Point out to me all the mistakes or omissions, 
and in either case, to forgive me. Remember the days 
when my Guide has been of service to you, and has saved 
you from imprudence and ennui. 

VICOMTE H. DE KERATRY. 



SUPPLEMENT. 



ATTRACTIONS OUTSIDE THE EXHIBITION. 

All round the Exhibition are to be found a great many 
private enterprises, which, although not within the pre- 
cincts of the Great Show, are nevertheless curious and in- 
teresting to see. 

The most important of all is the one connected to the 
Exhibition by a foot-bridge. 

THE SWISS VILLAGE. 

The foot-bridge connecting the village with the Exhibi- 
tion is in the Palace of Agriculture (Machinery Gallery of 
1889), Champ de Mars. 

Entrance, i franc, and i franc extra should you wish 
to see the Panorama of the "Alpes Bernoises." 

A whole Swiss village has been erected on the ground of 
a superficies of 21,000 metres. We will find there a dairy, a 
creamery, a Swiss Chalet where we can listen to the melo- 
dies of the Highlanders whilst drinking milk; further on is 
the historical Inn of Bourg Saint-Pierre, where, according 
to History, Napoleon stopped when crossing the Mount 
Saint-Bernard. 

Close by we find: 

THE BIG WHEEL, 

Erected Avenue de SufTren at the corner of the rue Du- 
pleix. 

Entrance, i franc. 

The Big Wheel is placed in a beautiful garden surround- 
ed by several places of amusements. Should you care to 
take a trip in the Wheel, in one of the small wagons at- 
tached to it, on payment of i franc extra, you will be able, 
at an altitude of 106 metres, to have a magnificent and in- 
teresting bird's-eye view of all the surroundings. 



92 HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 

THE PAVILION RODIN. 

The Rodin Exhibition, mentioned on the map, is situ- 
ated at the corner of the rue Montaigne and rue Jean 
Goujon close to the Pont de I'Alma. It contains the whole 
of the works of the celebrated sculptor; who attracted so 
much attention in the artistic world, on account of the 
famous statue of Balzac, rejected some time ago, as a result 
of the violent polemics it created amongst the members of 
the Literary" Men's Society, who had entrusted the execu- 
tion of the statue to the renowned sculptor. 

There are also to be found: 

The Panorama of Rome; Rue Jean Goujon. Entrance, 
I franc. 

Vesuvius in Paris; 24 Rue de la Federation. Entrance, 
I and 2 francs. 

A living Pompeii; also Rue de la Federation. Entrance, 
I franc. 

L'Hippocycle; Avenue de Sufifren. Entrance, 50 cen- 
times. 

A Cairo Street; 26 Avenue de Suffren. Entrance, 50 
centimes. - 

The Cour des Miracles; Avenue de Suffren. Entrance, 
I franc. 

And many others too long to enumerate. 

Before ending this Chapter, allow me to advise you to 
visit the Magnificent Panorama of the Revolution, work of 
the eminent painter, M. Poilpot, and situated. Boulevard 
Delessert, close to Door 33 of the Exhibition. 



ANNEX OF VINCENNES. 

Traction and Locomotion not having had sufficient space 
allotted to therh in the Palace du Champ de Mars, the 
greatest and the most important part of thos two Exhibi- 
tions has been placed at Vincennes. First of all, permit 
me to mention the different ways to reach this Annex. 

First, we have the Metropolitan, which takes us to the 
door of Vincennes (see page 191); the inner circle (alight 
at Reuilly), and the Electric Car (Place de la Bastille et de 
Charenton). The most practical way would be, by far, to 
take a cab which will take you to Door 7 of the Annex. 

The same rule as for the Great Show prevails here; no 
money is accepted at the turnstiles, and tickets only, pur- 
chased beforehand, will secure your admission. 



HOW TO SEE EXPOSITION ALONE 93 

RAILWAY MATERIALS. 

VVc find, iirst of all, an Exhibition of Railway Materials, 
with special pavilions afifected to Germany and Austria. 
Italy and Belgium. Leaving the shooting galleries on one 
side (long-bows and cross-bows), we reach the Tools, Ma- 
chines, Brooding apparatus, and finally the United States 
Exhibition. Above and next to Roumania. is the "Acety- 
lene," side by side with all the machinery connected with 
motors, and there, almost joining the preceding one, a 
complete Exhibition of Motor Cars and Cycles. The fam- 
ous "Velodrome Municipal" is situated between the sec- 
tions Tools and Machines and that of Motors. It is there 
that during the whole of the Exhibition will be decided the 
greater part of sporting matches. 

At the end of Lake Daumesnil, close to the Cycle's Ex- 
hibition, we find an annex of the Army and Marine, pre- 
ceding the park of the Aerostation, where all competitions 
amongst Aeronauts will take place. A little above on the 
Pavilion of the Lake itself, we have the Falconery Exhibi- 
tion connected with the Aviculture. 

On the opposite shore are ihe Forests, with a Pavilion 
specially reserved to the United States, and right against 
the sidings of Motor Cars and Cycles. Above a large place 
has been set apart to the Department of Agriculture for an 
exhibition of all reproductive animals, including even the 
wing tribe of the farm-yard. 

Last of all, close to the Door 7, we find on the skirts of 
the lake the Panorama of the Tour du Monde, whilst close 
by is the Philanthropic Society with an exhibition of all the 
apparatus and instruments for Saving Life. 

By consulting the daily papers, you will find all the de- 
tails relating to the matches, competitions, races, etc., 
which will daily take place on the grounds of the "Velo- 
drome Municipal." 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Practical Advice 



CHAPTER I. 



CHAPTER II. 



3 



General Review g 

First Day g 

Second Day 17 



CHAPTER in. 
Palaces of the Champs-Elysees 23 



CHAPTER IV. 



1 



The Right Shore of the Seine from the Pont des Invalides 

to the Trocad^ro 27 



CHAPTER V. 



The Trocadero . 



33 



CHAPTER VI. 
All Around the Eiffel Tower 49 

CHAPTER VII. 
The Palace of the Champ-de- Mars 60 

CHAPTER VIII. 
The Rue des Nations 70 

CHAPTER IX. 
The Esplanade des Invalides 85 

SUPPLEMENT. 

Attractions Outside the Exhibition 91 

Annex of Vincennes 92 



OCIETE fENERALE DE f UBLICITE 

POLVGLOTTE 



Pierre GRATEROLLE 

DiRECTEUR 

p/kBis 31, Bue du 4-Septembre, 81 




r La Sociele Generale de Publirile 
Polyglolte est Seule Concessiou- 
naire de la publicite des Guides 

PRHIS-EXPOSITIOII 

1900 

jParis ^NIVERSEL I 

paraissant simultanempnt a Paris. 
Londrea, Berlin et, Xeiv-York, en 
trois lansues : francais, anglais, 
allemand. 

Preface de Jules CLARETIE 
[dite par la Maison CHARr ENTIER 
FASQUELLE 
'"et important ouvragp. publie 
ROUS la direction du \" de KERATRY. 
est mis en Vfnte par l"s soins de 
la Maison Eugene FASQUELLE. dans 
tout<-s les Liluairios de Fianr-e et 
de_ rKtran^er et dans les Biblio- 
iheques des gaies de chemins de 
fer. 

Telepho7ie : 212-83 
Adresse telegr. : Guidnat-Paris 

KOTA : Pour facjlitcr les reclicrches dps annniires 
des Maisons roooniniandcos, coiisiilter la Table 
des Matieres a la fin du Volume (pages coulours). 



i ' '' 



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HYGIENE DE LA FEMME 




LA TOILETTE 

LINGERIE, GANTERIE 

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J. LOU VET & SES FILS 



Toiles, Linge de Table, Rideauz, Lingerie, Mouchoirs, 
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et Layettes. 



Telas, Lopa de mesa, Cortinas, Lenceria, Pannelos, 
Camisas, Boneteria, Guanteria, Frazadas, Ajuares et Canas- 
tillas. 



Linen, Table-Clothes, Curtains, Drapery, Handkerchiefs, 
Shirts, Hosiery, Gle^ves, Blankets, Outfits and Baby linen. 



MAKUFACTUKE A A-lGiJ^-I'XHUIL TELEPHONE 



GRANDE MAISON DE BLANC | GRANDE MAISON DE BLArfC 
J, LOUVET ET SES FILS J. LOUVET & ©.ij()nf. ' 



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CORSETS 



1 



4/. rue S'JTluguslin, 

PARIS """* IJobes de Chambpe 



Blouses et Ijingerie 

CORSET-JUPON & CULOTTE-CORSET DIANE 



MODELES DEPOSES 



Telephone : 2 3 5-8 g. 



English spoken. 
oAlan spricht Deutsch. 




'^"^"-'-^ 3, place Du Theatre- Frao<?ai5 MEO'»"-'-E 
D'OR ^ ' I '^ O'OR 



Corget-Culrasse pour amincir el allongcr la 'aillo sans 
occasinnnpr ni gftne, ni fatigue. 

Busc Artlcul6 ne fatigviant jamais la poitnne. 

Corset i EpaullAres centre la tendance a se voftlcr. 

Corset de Null, Corset du Matin, sans busc, res- 
sons, ni baleines. 

Corsets pour diflormite, Coussins CreUX. 

Corsets Orthop6dlques pour dinger et rectifier le 
d^velopperaent de la taille. 

Corset's aver Tuteurs l^crs; ne gOn.int jamais. 

Corsets d'tti, en coutil de soie ou batiste. 

Corset-Celntur^, special pour bicyclettcs. 




sur la personnc habill6e 
avcc la rube. 



-MBSURES POUR CORSET 

Tour de taiUe. 

Tour de la poitrine et du dos en passant Sous Ics bras 

Tour des hanches. 

Dessous du bras jusqu'k ia taille. 

Priirc de dire si la taille est longue, courte ou moycnnc 



LA TOILETTE 
DENTELLES 



Maurice DALSHEIMER 

n n 

I 10, rue.Auber - PARIS | 

i 35 

iDentelles Anciennes et Imitations i 






-^ ^. 



Stot^es d'ititeriieup et {^ideaa^ 



n 



i COUVRE-LITS I 



i ^ 

|gHE|VIISS DE TflBItE & SEl?VIGES FRNTRISIeI 



s 
a 



n 



Hepapations et Transfof mations de Dentelles g 






LA TOILETTE 
TROUSSEAUX - ROBES ET MANTEAUX 




POUR^ DAMES ET ENFANTS 




■•^.^■ 



"W'" M- Anna HEritie:^ - 



rs 



„. ■ 17, Rue Berg-ere 



% 




COUTURIER 

CosinnT^s i\o Ville 

ET DC SPORT 

JAOliETTRS - M^NTEAM 

J. BIHABEN 

UssiEuftsl Tailleup [ o«»fsJ 

54. ID? (ie la Vict/)ire 



ht ioMa ixpunoJ i On <nant fn patSoi 



TAIllEOR POOR DAMES 




•Robes et TUanteaux ^ 

POUH YACMt Et OENRE SPOftTlF 



J. 



20, RUE JOUBERT 

(titgti tiniuUC I'ortM) \ 



P'KRIS 



LA TOILETTE 
ROBES - MANTEAUX - AMAZONES 





TAILLEUfiCULOTTIEeGUETBIER 

*\ciEv FounivissFt'n 

"» s u L empeheur et oe s« m.isov 

onevF.TR oe s. u. te noi- oes OEi.r.ES 

foiinniissEun de >. « LeMPEBECn oe nussie 



49> boalevafd Haussmann 
38, poe Caamaptin 

T^LEPWONE 256,07 

Sp6cialit6 de LIVREES 



ROBES & MANTEAUX 




L. TOUSSAINT 

GiiEMENCE VflSSEUR 

SUCCESSEL k 

57, r»e S.iint-Rocii, 5; 

(avenue de lovlua) 



^izri^s 



-<D 



TmLETFES DE ?ILU! ET D& SOIREES 
MODES 

EXfEHiTIOKS £N PflOViHCf ET A fETRASGEB 
PRIX MODERES 



LA TOILETTE 



HAUTES CONFECTIONS 



0^ Robks-Maktmujk-Iiijiqeri^ 




/(^.^C^acc ^?^iA^//w 







Maisow Tres Elegante 

CliGntcie duTout Paris Mondain 



k2h. 




TELEPHONE 




13'.- 15 




Jka/2/iep 


iz^^O'/id 


RQBfeS & 


COMFECTIONS 


PARIS 


«, Soulevjra dt Itf^n^'.eklnt 







LAITOILETTE 
ROBES ET MANTEAUX 



ROBES & MANTEAUX 



.r'LUDINART 

129* Faubourg _ Saint- Honore, 129 

i, KV COIN DE LA RUE SAtNt-PmjLIPPE-DU-RoULE 

ENGLISH SPOKEN 



ll^. Robes & Mamteaox 

SPECIAIliITE 

DE 

Costunies Jailkur pour Qames 





^/ 



'i/wrnoy 



28, flue ■CaumaPtin (angle de la rue Soudreaa) -PAffiS 

COSTUMES SPORXIFS ' ^ 



LAc^TOILETTE 
ROBES - COSTUMES TAILLEUR 



4< 



•fA4-.4i.!^^Ji-?',JiJL i-.-ir.'iSr.-J:.:Sr.:gr,-f,7lr,'r,-?- y •r,v,.-S^i:,^*'J » 






ANTEAUX & |OBES 

Mc.nllcz, 'Dresses. 



P C0J^¥ZEJV( 

76, rvie Hichelieu 

-^ PARIS 






> 
^ 

: 

<► 
+- 

J 

<• 

-K 

¥ 
^ 








12, Rue Auber, 12. — PARIS 

iA LENTRESOL; 

LADI{)S TAILOfi '^^ 

Seu/e Afa/SOA) dans Paris faisant /e Costume-Tailleu/' 

entierement doubl6 sole et sur mesure k "iStS francs. 

JAQUETTE DOUBLEE SOIE, 7S FR. 

Les Commaades sont executees par un des premiers Coupeurs de Paris 
lifllSON RECOWMAUDfiB & UNIQUE DANS SON GENRE 



LA TOILETTE 



AMAZONES 



J. TALON 

(Place Saift.fe-Augvjsfcan) 

-^ — ^ PARIS -^^ • 



^ma^ones 



^-AMERICAN ORDERS . 



LA TOILETTE 



ROBES ET MANTEAUX 






Liingerie ^ 






'H N^E KERTEUX 

[ij PARIS — 37, Rue des MathurlTis 



■4- 



Ladies Costumes. Dauieii Keider. 

Mantles and Linen. | Mautel und Wasfhe. 



.:fi^nf^fif^''^ipf^vp^:f^^f^fjY¥¥W'^^TVWT^^^ 



iOBES & ^ANTEAUX 

Modeles exclusifs 

' 1?^, rue "Roquepine 

ROBfiS J)0U6n££§ D£ SOIE. DEPUIS 150 FRANeS 

ROBES DE STYLE 

DeuVV sur Mesuve en "VO \vewpeft 



ENGLISH SPOKEN 



SPECIALITE DE I\OBES de BAL 



LA TOILETTE 



COSTUMES TAILLEUR 




(S^^T-a) 



Ex-Coupeur des G.randes Maisons de la ru8 de la Paix 



TELEPHONE aSO-OO 



SP:eGIALITE 



DE 



ROBES & COSTUMES TilLLEUR 



■.iss',. 



Anglais, Allemand.R-usse. Tailleur Viennois 



10, pue de la P^pini^re ^nri^ 



LA TOILETTE 



COSTUMES TAILLEUR 




Ci-dfViinl, Vhct du Thtiali-e-Francais 
9, RUE DE L'ECHELLE. 9 

Pres I'Avenue de I'Opera 

. .. PARIS 




Costumes elegants de Ville et de Voyage 
pour Dames et Messieurs 

SPECIALITE DE COSTUMES GENRE TAILLEUR POUR DAMES 

Coupes et Modeles de la Maison 



LA TOILETTE 
ILLEUR POUR HOMMES — FOURRURES 



w 



r"W' 



0- 



fc ' 




k 


'1 


X 


.i. 


2S. iJS^.^^ ^Uj. 










J Specialite 

, JAQOETTESi DAMES 



EN TOUS GENRES 



>f5: *^^ DIPLOME D'HONNEUR, — M^OAiLLE D'OR |^* 



Reparations 
EH TOUS GE?(RES 

Prjv mocl6p68 





5, FflOBOURG IBONTI^IflRTRE 

Pris du boulevard Montmartre) 



GONSERYATION d^ FOURRURES 

pendant J'4l4 



LA TOILETTE 
L'HYGIENE 



EAU DE SUEZ 



DENTIFRICE ANTISEPTIQUE -^ VACCINE DE LA BOUCHE 

Preserve les Dents, les Cuerit, les Conserve, 
Rafraichit et Parfume la Bouche. ^- 

EST 




- VINAIGBE LACTE OE SUEjK pour la TOII.ETTE 

POUORE ET PATE DENTIFRICES de SUEZ 

EXTRAIT ( Teat U mondt jaiiant jail ju< Ja tiluparl iet ientifriecs lont des lipiides [arfumesl 

1ti QPin/ir'h \ """ frepriile curative; t'rute, fHa^H do Suez, dentifrice antiseptigue, est un\ 

& W**' ^ I virilai'.i midicament gui prtfTve Ut Jtthlt, Itt^uiril. lis conserve. I 

'd4p4t GBiriRAL : Ptiarmaele B^X%.A.I<,'14, Rue de la Paii, PARIS, et da\s les bovnes maiso. s. 




Maison Sp^iale d'Eaux de Beaute 



i. 



li'Eiiu DEHlWOPHlIiE & IiAIS 

Faitdisparaitre : rougeurs, boutons, ger^ureset riSea 



R«ffermit et developpe la poitrine 

-^ SEUL INVENTEUR : DE JVIOl^A ^^ 

■ 1 8, rue des Capucines, PARIS 



XVHl 



LA TOILETTE 
ONDULATIONS - POSTICHES 




eOIFFURE: 

Pour Dames 



SPECIALITE DE POSTICHES 

ET COIFFURES POUR DAMES 



n PERRUQUES 



SALONS D'ONDULATION 
TEINTURE 'ant 1 SEPT 1 QUE 

SHL-^MPOOXNa 

IjOyFaubouzg St-Honot^, ^o 

- . ,i\ % , . , PARIS 



XIX 



PHOTOGRAPHIE 



PORTRAITS — CARTES D'IDENTITE 





PMOTOGi^APHIE 

Edouard R0Z£ 

29, Boulevard des Italiens. — Paris 



Installation de l" ordre — Salons St Cabinets de toiletta r^serv^s 

APERQU OU PRiX CQURAHT 

Carte de visite soigni^e, la douz. 25 fr | Carte album soignee, la doaz. 40 fr. 



— .Iail2dpuz.\bh. 



Caite visjte au plaHne, ta dnuz. 40 fr. 
(Ires riche) ln\/2doiu. To Ir. 



— lall2douz.25(r 



Corte album au platine, ta douz. 80 0'. 
(tresriche) M 1/2 doHS. 50 fr. 



QRANOS PORTRAITS |NALT^RABLES 

Grandeur 0.18'-"' X 0.24"" de h.aui prix 25 francs /Vpreuw 

- 0.30"" XO.AO^'" — _ 60 - - 

- 0.50"" X 0.60'" — - 100 - — 

— 0.65"" X 1"" — _ 200 — — 

— 1" Xl.50 — — 300 — — 
Ppprpducilons d'anciens portraits, reisejijfeiagEe absolument exacte 

{Prix suivai\t dlf^c^U) 

Differentes poses sont soumises au client avant la lipraison, 
sans qftigmenlalion de prix 

PORTBAiTS POUR CAni£ D'lOENTITE LIVRES OANS l£S 48 H £u R E S 
cAoaes RICHES et pantaisies a o's.s prix TBts modehEs 

On peut poser tous les jours de 7 heures da matin i 7 neures du soir 
par n'imf)orte quel temps 



L' HYGIENE 



LES SOINS DE LAtBOUCHE 




L' HYGIENE 




L'HYGIENE 



SOINS DE LA BOUCHE 




SiiHttt Srivtll II I. I ifi fiey de TbiU 



V: Bachelard 



SUCCESSEUR 



CHIRURGIEN-DENTISTE 



MAISON DE CON FIANCE 



2, Beukuard Bonne-NeuDdle, 2 

*5C PAI^ I S 3^ 



< » * * 



LE VOYAGE 



MALLES, VALISES, ETC 



£±±±±±±±±±±±±J:±±±±±±J^ 




MANUFACTURE > 

d'Articles de Voyage U» 

T£l£PHONE 221-34 



(Eslablishcrt over IOC years) 



E.60YIKDAmEp 

Rue Saint-Honore, 233 



MANUFACTURER H^ 

of soul leather Ladies and Gentlemen triinks N* 

DRESS BASKETS LADIES'HAT CASES p 



^n#«r«nj%ii 



BULLY 

n, ra* MoiUiituU, PARIS, 






HOItfUffS <S /»^^/? DAMES 




Costume de Chasse a CoarK \ 

■Ki-f-'iL pEi ft V 

(1«s M»l?/>ns HKNRl UaSB. \ 
BOtiTF.MV. OKIGER ,. 



7t rue Sainle-Anne • A 



LA MUSIQUE 



Maison la plos imporlaiilo en France dans le commerce de JIusiqup 

Emiie MEPESSOwYPiM S'^-Cecile, ^ REIMS 

19 Ml^DMI.LtS. DIPLOMES D'HONxNEUR ET DtCORATlUiNS 

your Lcs cIpt_€s. li ':■.' uiilc rl afjrtahlr U" 
coTiMiitrf les noui cautis. dc Hvp Urna- 
coup d': musiquf, cl i da }i'r:.[ jiossihU 
n ppii de frats que par un abonnxHvni 
>Botlc Itemoia. 

Grand Ahoieffleiil a la tectare Misicaie 

Offrani 400,000 MORCEADX dete^es Editeurs. 4.000 PARTITIOXS D'OPEHAS. PiaDo seuiet Y\m elClunt 
MQDE REMOIS - PORTS FRANCO 

Depuis 15 francs par an y compria Ic.s froisdc iKn-tyillcrct retour 
SONT COMf niS DANS L'ABONNEmENT : 
Les morceaux de Jfiauo A 2, 6, 4 el d*6 mains. 
Le^pa^lilionsd'op^^a5, piano seulei piano et chant. 
La musique Je chfcnt, airs.d'operas, inplodirs, etc. 
La musique pour Violon, Violoncelle, Orguc, 

FICiie, Mandoline, eto. 
Le'Mufeique d'enserablf, duos, irlos, quaiuors 
Lesijpiudes, les nouveaul^s. 



Le sorvico do rabonneiiicDt ne se Tail pas les d.mai 
11 est delivre i clinque aboDoe uo cartoo du [ir 



LES ABONNEIlflENTS SONT PAYABLES AVANCE 

N° 3 doiiiiaiU droit (jc lire dausl'aiinee 

350 fr. de musique. 

I'nv marque cl i iO larifs po.ttau.T.. 15 fr. 
I \" 4 donnant droit de lire dansj'anude 

750 fr. de musique. 

Prix rnarqu^ el a 14 larifs postaux.. 26 fr 
N" 5 donnanl droil de lire dans I'annee 

1,200 fr- de mus^ue. 

Pii\ marque et k IS laHfs poslauj.. 38 fr. 

La musique lue en plus est comptee 4 fr. par I(Kt fr. 

-Mjour KaboDQeinflDl flo 3 — U fr. pour raltOQDfliiioul 
PMi» 4 — 2 fr. 50 pour I'abooneniCQl n' 0. 

comme nombre d envoi nu jKiids (Je torif riioyeaoaot 
uQ sitpulfiment proportiooDsl (celui lodique est do 
3 kiloB el eQ pare). 
Les HtiannAs retjci-'eot ftvRc cliaquoen?oi oxpedifi franco 

if pdstalqui leur Hssure i^aletneot 



d. r. 



upplei 



Ja 
du turif ost k aju 



I'etrfin 



au prj 



Le Rayon de Musique d'Abonnement de la' Maison Cmile MENNESSOIM St Fils 
est le plus Important qui existe en France 

La mu.j(tue..de tous I'os fid;teurs est dooo.'n i labi-Qocinctil, oi cumme li y co n ud6 ccolaine oq France, il 
peul eJtiator de CoUlogue gtneral pouvnnt reosfi'p'nnr sii, )o musitjud 4 choi5ir. Le^ abouncs qui o'oot pa" de lili( 
doDner peuvonl ftidiqiicr le genre ot la fi,rfo de la tnii^njue a Ii'ur eovoyor. lis scruDt «oivii a leur sah.raclion, 



PAYEMENT DES PIANOS EN 36 MOIS, depuis 25 francs par mots 

aecor.iiooi • Pianos detous les Facteurs, ERARD, PLEYEL, GAVEAD. etc., etc. 




JSj?/ Svsleme E. MENN'l'SSON, brevoK, adopt* par les piincipnui 

'«3Er' Professeurf du Conservoloiro .1.; Vm-^. par les Maisons PLEYEL. WOLFr el C" 
-^W^ GAVE\U, etc., do I'aris. 

■^ 'Ji'itoniinnndi^ par li-i jitus CLicbrcs Pianislcs cl Vii-luoscs 

Le M0LLIPI10f(B;a.u'n'<)ouble hut : l" il assourdil li! Piano a volonle el k lei poiiil i|iie ni ilos pii^iTi 
conligues, aides appariemejjis siiues au-dessus on au-dessoiis on ii'eniendc les t?iudes iinisic;(k>; 2" il 
a le grand avaniagft (le pTo^eger les feuues des marleaux et d'assdrer au Piano un scfvite beaufoup ])lus 
Ion;: qu'i ecu lion moins.du Moliijihone. ^ 

^■,3Sr KEYUE .MBSICALE ^-- CECILE;^ rj^^t; 

Couo Revuo cj^icjile pubtiee'suaf Ic patronofre demiueals nrti*iles, iolferc^se les pcrsonnts duji inusicieuDi'.* 
aussi bieo que Iq*. piiTajeane^ c|pve5. EHc doune cliaque nnnee 40 francs de musique. pru iriurqu6, ei I-SO p.ifi'j 
de lexto, coinpr«oaiit:,5'OgTB[>tiie, cliroarqn'a'cl' eludes musicalc.;, les nouvelles mu'icoltis da la Frruice el dr ifctrnoper, 
dos elemeolB et priucip^ d'banrtoQle, des aiiecdoLtis. des ephemerittcs, des rScrcmion*. des comK.lic^ ei dcs sajOL'ti'i 
pour fainilles fll tiiaisoas d'WuMlioQ. — Envoi d'un numtfi'o specimen cojurci* fi\ 30 en iimin-cs-posic. 

' - Od ^Mm, J tODie epodue "d6 1'anaSe, Envoyer mandat-posie de 4 Ir. a E, mennesson i Fils, Mlieurs i Reims 



LES GilANDS^VINS DEIiFRANGE 



YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 



^^^^^1^^^^^^^^^^(^^feQi 



CHAIPAGKE 

PROPRIETAIRE 

AVIZE (Champagne) 




^_ ,; MEI>AI LiJLrES D'OK : 

AHYEES f S9'4 - KQUEM 1SS6 



Carte Blanche. 
Carte Rose . . 
Carte d'Or 1893 



Fr 



4 


» 


5 


» 


6 


» 



V: 

.)2] 50 centimes en plus par 2 dedii - bouteilles. 

1 



FRANCO D'EMBALLAGE PRIS EN GARE D'AVIZE 



^74] La Maison demande des RepresenLants 

"V^ ti I'Eiranj^er par tout ou elle n'est pas 






i 

rf 

;6 






m- 



HfrPv 



m 



^^^^^^^0^^^^^-^^ 




LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 




XXVlt 



LES^GBANDS VIKS.DE FRANCE 
VINS DE CHAMPAGNE 

VINS PINS OE CHAMPAGNE 

CARRE-PERSEVAL&C" 

REIMS 

Grands Dipldmes d'Honneur aux Expositions de 

PAftIi 1886 MeCBOURNE 1888 

BORDEAUX <S97 

PRIX-COURANT : 

CARTE D'OR, laboutellle fu 3 SO 

CARTE BLANCHE, - _ 550 

GRAND VIN SEC, - ... - 7 50 

Sp6claUt6 tie Chamjmgne bygiiaiqua 






m^^Er^- 



Vins Fins de Champagne 

< — 

CHAUREY FILS 

PHOPRI^AIRE & KEGOCIAHT 

75 £pEKN H Y 



Carte Blanche. 4 fr. '^ Guvee Reserv6e. 5 fr. 



XXYIII 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 
YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 




'Chalons-sup-'Mapne 



MWSO^ FONUV.P EN 1862 




PRIX COURANT 


.._ 


^ 


h Mill 


L- Universe., - -; ..--^ 6 ■ ,♦, Creir.ar.t. P.cse . . 
Grand Vin Hoyal . .. , 5 50 Tff Fleur de Sillery . 
Eouzv Cabinet. . , . .' 5 - rti Sillery auperieur . 
Carif Planche .... ^ 50 f Ay supeneur . . . 


. . 4 50 

. U - 

. . 3 50 

3 .' 


i. — — 







m MAISON FONDLE EN 1846 

•V .x^»™»,«,„, .^.^ de Henri IV 

Ancicn Domainc 

^i-i^^-L. ^y _ Champagne 

PBIX-COURANT 

„, 3 SO I Carte Rose 

carte Beue. • . • ■ • <>^ carte d 'Or 

Carte Blanche "* ■ , k„,,i,.,ii,.« 

special cuvee e«tra-dry, la caissc dc 1^ bouiciuis ^ ^ 

Carte noire 

FRANCO DEMBAUUAGE PR.S A AY 



^XIX 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 
YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 




la b'" fr. 



Emhallc en ^are Dameiy. — 40 c. en plus par 2/2 bout. 

Vente Direete du ProdaeteuF au GonsommateuF 

SUPPRESSION DES INTERMfeDIAIRES 

LUTTE CONTRE.LA FRAUDE ET LA FALSIFICATION 



Ell prtviiion dune rapide invasion phyllox^yique qui ne s'esi lieuieiise- 
ment pas lialisee, les Nigociants out consiitiii! des stocks considerables de 
V'lii etmngers : Bcaujolais,. Sauniur, Hongiic. 

Pour I ipondie a cette manoeuvre, les Propi letaires-Vigncrons ont 
constind I'associatinn du "Pur Champagni" 



LA QUALITY 

de 1105 Vins est indiscutable, I'Asso- 
ciaiion n'itant pas patentee et ne 
pouvant, de ce fajt, s approvisionner 
autre p«rt qucn CHAIUPACNE, elle ® 
nc livre done que les recoltes ae seS 
adherents. Preprint a j res -Vignerons 
a Ay, Ver:[enay, Oger, Cumiires, 
Damery, Mailly. Venteuil, etc., etc. 



LE BON MARCH^ 



la valeur du prp- 

Ic 4 lAssociatKin 

■ lucun dcs Irais dcs 



en Conipur:i 
diiit, dcvicii 
qui nc siipi 
autres niaiijuLS, <6)^que : I'.itciile 
Rcpresciilaliiiii, lincfn*iifiiiircs, Aiv 
nonces, KccUtncs, iuithaincaiit les 
prix dc icviciii dcs vins s«n$ en 
augmentcr la QUALITY 



LES GRAKPS VINS DE FRANqE 



YINS^DE CHAMPAGHE 






Maison fondee en. 1840 




PROPJUETAIRE 



^pEi^ls^T'^V 1^ 



^^SPE CHAMPA ^ 



f>fi€i)U'l€^$ €fi<JS 



'iir-iB©^: 



PROPRl^TAUtS AC VIGNCS 

VEBTUS ,PBi:s JEpernay 

t^. ^oeerdun-SHaumont possidant dei '"Vignes $ur plusiouri terri- 
toircM de» pinif renommit sfe la 'Qliampayhc; est d mtmc dc fournir ta 
prodtiita d deiprix exceptionnclt cnmr>\e,hQ,n marchi ot comme qualiU 
>^.< — i-: 

.PRIX-COURANT- 

C^rte Biancha • 5 fwiacs. \ 

^ Les 2 Demi-Bouteill^s, fr. 25 ejj Plus 

■ „7 PR IS i VEsR-T^US -V- ;{Epi,b«Uage eomprla) 

VAioiir B 90 Jpurs ou 30 Jpurs, 2 'I, d'Escomptfi. 



5i 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



VINSiDE CHAMPAGNE 



Ql^ampagne 

Alexandre DUMAS 




"^^/SON A LOHOP<>^^ 



es, Oastl© Stx^eet, SG 
Oxforci Street 



LES GRANDS YINS DE FRANCE 



:inS DE CHAMPAGNE 




^. Vms Fins de Champagne s\ 



Seule Maison eifective de ce nom 

FONOEE EN 1784 

flU CHflTEflU DE GORRlGOr -.«- piERRY, pres EPERMY 



4 



<*► 



" Y 

I ^1^ Vins de Champagne h 



A. DESCOTES 




MAREUIL-S/-AY (Marne) 



PRIX • COURANT 

Sillery Mousseux . . 2 50 | Carte Blanche 4 " 

Ay Mousseux ...... 3 " ] Cuvee Rdservde 5 50 

La bouteille pvise a Mareuil-surAy — 25 c en phjs par 3]1s bouleiUes. 



XXXIII '• 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE ^ 



YINS' DE CHAMPAGNE 




CHAMPAGNE 



ETABLI EN 1760 




ESTABLISHED 1760 



lillHSOKPERE.Fms 



REIMS 



Cette Marque est foarnie k 



SA MAJESTE LA REINE D'ANGLETERRE 



SON ALTESSE ROYALE LE PRINCE DE GALLES 



LE8 GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



VINS DE CHAMPAGNE 




VINS DE CHAMPAGNE 




CONCOURS D'HYGIENE. RfilMS 1889. - DIPLOME DE 1" CLASSE 

Iifinnion iBBmailBnal!! Si CililE (JJcemlitt lrt< J Bars I8S5) - OfliSD tRil 

RficOMPENSKS OBTENU|S GetiSve, )«93. - Academ.e de Bruxclles, 18U1. 
P^Tii. liiSiiiui infernaiional, 18!).'). — Memhi^ du Jary Itofs ciinfojir^ ' 
Moscoii. 18D1. — Anvers. 1894. — Esposilmn alnnenlaire . Liverpool, 180i — Jloos, 189G. 



MT^SSE PeKE Si. FllaS 



Grand Cremant 

Champagne Mousseux. ... 2 50 

Carte Noire Qualite super. . 3 

Champagne du Chasseur . . 3 50 II. d" 1 Etoile. 3 Zi 

Carte Blanche 4 •■ <> d" 2 d" 31 GIA 

E:MBA.».t_ACfc 6N SUS 
O fr. SO f n pliin rendu fi rtnmicUeS! Paris. — Pjt 2 '/. Bunt., O if. 3»en plui 



2-fr 25 

Cuvee reservee, extra sec. , 

Tisane Cremante 

d" 1 Etoile. 




¥lNS DE f HAMPAGNE __-_^ 

^^^^^.^s-^-^- ^^^-- PIERRY-EPERNAY 

AdPesse t4I6gr>ephlque / -LSB-LA^C-PieflfiY 

1-*-!-^ 

PRIX-COURANT 

Carte Blanche 3 50 

Carte d'Or 4 75 

Grand Cremant, Cuvie rHervie 5 50 

EXPEDITIONS PAR PANIERS OU CAISSES DE \», it, Sfl, Sft BOUTEILLES 

PR. 50 FN PLCS POL'ft S J/2 SOL'TElLLES 
.6 

IBarchaDdises prises fpcrnay, fpanco d'eiaballage 



XXXV 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 



Bucy 4e Rochecourt 



)VllIiIiER-GWOE a FlliS 

Proprietairee. — Negocisnts -Esportaieura 

IVTAREUIL-SUR-AY 

. ■ Pres ^perns'/ (MARNE) 

PRIX COURANT 

Carte Noire 3 25 ! Marque Miller-Caqye et Fi)s 

Royal Caaed'or(AjfeseMe) 5 » ] Sillery exquis (exir^). . 3^5 

l.ES VlNS 80NT EXPKDIES BPUT. SEC. PEMI-SEC OU DOUX 

NOTA : Les bouteilles doivent §tre couchees a Vafiri 

du froM rigoureux et de Vbumidne 





30UTEJU£s 



r^v^^rr-'rii^Mff'^iy^^ 



^ /^ORHA^ a^ElMS 




Carte blanche 5' Boury 4^ Sillepy 3'.' Ay 2? 50 Tisane 2f 60 
MAISON FONDEE EN 1820 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 




REIMS 

^:^^ CRampagne 



Maison a PARIS. 23, rue He Palestra 



Mllcry railciioirc . . . . hr 4 ii 

(. cirtc vci'lc 4 SO 

r.stra,Diy Verzoiiay, vm sec. 4 SO 

i;artc blanche ^ SO 

l.iserM- clivfc 5 50 

Carte dor Crcinant 6 50 



. 6 60 

. 3 » 



PRIX-COURANT : 

Kr 4 11 ♦ Carte d'or Crfeir.ant, Extra-sec 

Tisane niousseuse 

MARQUE V ESBACH & C" 

apperlenHiiL A la Mai3on 

Ay ou SUlery mousseux ... 2 50 

Carte blanche 3 » 

0' SO eii plus par deux demi-bouteilles 

L«S rofciS O'tMBfcLLAGe f-T DE TRANSPORT SONT A L* CHARGE DG L-ACMETEUR 

Afiii rtevrler Ips , onii cfai niis. les Vins de 4 4 6' 50 seront MpiuISs (« moms <i ordre conlr.iiri-l 

t „ ni,„n,nn„„n Ue I Dniioois I nu J Pie se iroiive flans looies les bonnes BalsoDS fle PARIS 
Lb Ctiampape V' J. ROOSSILLON & C ue la france « ne lETiUNCER 




REGIAOLT Fr^res 

Proprietaires de Vignes 

au PESNll', a OGER et VERTUS (premiers Crus Ghampenois; 

rLe •M^S'f^Ii^-suP-O-G'Ef^ (Mapne) 

PRIX COURANT 

CHKTG BDHNCrfE (QuaUU fixfra) '» «°J^'""' \^^ 

_ T10IT\E iQualili gupineure) _ ^ ;>? 

_ Bijeue (Premiere Quality) 

25 Centimes eu plus paj- deux demi-BouteiUes 

FRAJM d'EMBM.U6E, tl CaiBB! M PaiuJiTdTirM"* 50 BttteillK, enBare MESHllrJiir-OBE! 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 
YINS DE CHAMPAGNE 





VIN DBS PRINCES 




EPERNAY 



rEMOfiE & f 








PARIS 

J, lue^ 



QJcnoe^ 



MARSEILLE 



L0N0RE3 
' 5, sy/Ca.cK' oLa.r- 

SRUXELLES 
25, Ut^ CIA Ut ^./C^u 



xxxvin 




LES GRANDS VINS DE FaAJsCE 
YIUS DE CHAMPAGNE 




MAISON FONDLE EN +8-67 



lExptD s i t i o n s In t e r n a t i OTiaiies 

MENTION HONOHABLE BORDEA'UX 1S9S 
laeDAILLR DE BBONZE ROUEN 1896 

MfDAiLLE d'aroent MARSEILLE 1897 
GRA'ND .DIPLOME DHONNEUR LYON ,1897 



¥IK:S DE CJHAHFA!.G'H3E 

PROPRlfiTAJRE 

PRIX-COURANT 

) Carfe d'or, quality superieure. 6'' i Carfe rose n> 

I Cafte blanche, 1" qualile. S" j les 2/2 bouteiu.es so c. cn pil? 



sfe 




Proprietaire de V^es 

dan<; fes crus TenonTmes de la Champagne 

If A AVIZE, OGEa, GRAUVES 

-^y" «& vMONT+JELON 



■'<^^ (Champagne) 



,P.RlX.-£0.lfM.Itr 



Grani] liiipeml:-4rull893 . , 
Carle BIsDcktCwnds Cm). 
Carle Noire (Cre'mant) . . . 



laboot. 
prise 

i kmi 
6 . 

5 • 

4 ) 



Les deux dcmi-bouteilles, 
,0/r. 25 en plus. 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



YINS DE BORDEAUX, BOURGOGNE 



GRANDS VINS DE BORDEAUX 

et de Bourgogpe 




dales Ivijll^eHAP 



TELEPHONE 250-95 



308, rue Saint-Honore 



WHISKIES GINS 

~*^h engiaism house -— ^ 

THES, CAFES 



i 



Sur toiites les tables arisiocraiiauer, vous trouverez 



les Grands Vtnsde la Matson jules Marchand 



■«= 



■ ■■-' '-■- ■: » 



BORDEAUX and BURGUNDY BORDEAUX & BURGONDER 



iligh Class Winel 

All iTi&rk;9 of 

Champagnes .-s Liquors 

Telephone 250-95 
36». rue St-Honofd 
Whiskies, Cms 

ENGLISH HOtSK 

Teas, Golfet! 
On iti tirt\locraliL tal/tn yon prr vtre to finit 
ihe ki.i-.s if Juki iW^i.anU 



Chair.pat^ner r* Liqueurs 
Aller MariKO 

j'Giais HAaciaAnici 

filtpbone m-^ 

369, rua St- Honor* 

Wiskies Giits 

ENGLISCHES HAUS 

Thfees ct GaISs 

Aufaiteit ffintu Feschfn ftitM man tictn 
die Vi'eiiic ion Jules K&rthaud 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 

YINS DES COTES DE LA LOIRE 
YOUYRAY 




)i)m$ hc$ €bte$ he la €o\xt t 

SPECIALITE DE YINS BLANCS 



J ^ FABRIQUE DE VINAIGRE DE VIN 



BARUE fp^pes 



e)(9 



419 et 119 bis, Faubourg Bannier 



De VERMONT, Propri6taire.St-HlLAIRE St-FLORENT (France) 



GRANDS VINS MOUSSEUX 

CHATEAU DE VERMONT 

Propriete exclusive dc la MaiSon 

MRIEBLEUE. tiain ot . uar.s l/,cbo.U-) 1 50 

- B16NCHE Eiain or 1 75 

- ROSE - 2 .. 

- BLUNCHE CCREt ...-...■- 2 25 

- OOR ■ , . ■ ■ . - 2 50 

- DOR GRUND VIN OE RESERVE. EUinsakle or 3 •■ 

- GRSND CREMANT MOUSSEUX . - 3 50 

- GRAND. VIN ROrAL Capsule or 4 ■. 

/.<?< ^.it.T\'^;nt-BoulpiUe^. 6 fi: -to m plus 



VOUVRAY MOUSSEUX 



QUALITE SUPERIEURE. (sans 1/2 boul.I. 1 
CUVEE RESERVEE 2 



VIN D'ANJOU MOUSSEUX 



QUACtTE EXTRA 

CUVtE EXTRA "Si rl^tRIEUR^ ■ 

CONDITIONS DE VENTE 

SOjoiirs, 2 "/o, GO jciirs. 1 "/o ; 90 jours, 

Franco toutes gares par 25 bouteilles 



AVIS TRES IMPORTANT 



Les Vins moussem doivent toujours etre 
bus tres trais, meme etre mis dans I'eau tres 
Jraiche ou glacee avant d'etre debouches. 



I i/*? la f/cifjc pendant 



Ota. — Les petlicuii 
la gitlec, J.sporaisse 
s quiililc el be.iute J 



UNE 



I N N O VAT ) O N 

Goiilez et choisissez 



Aoant lie faire line commaiule, iie sei-oit-ce que 
de 25 bouteilles, I'on desire gouter et clwisir. 

Aussi, centre t'enaol il'un lion lie puste de OIX 
FHANCS, nous adressons UN POSTAL contenrint 
QUA TRE Bouteilles nssorties lie MEME VALEUR : 
I f.50, 2f.; 3f., 3f.50;setonle Tarif ci-annexe. 

Lb tout est contenu dans un CHARMANT 
PANIER, i/ui trouoe son utilite duns le menuge. 
« OE VERMONT » 



P.-S 



ADRESSE TELEGRAPHIQUE ; DE VEHWONT 



. - Bien indiquer la Care qui dessert. 
St-HILAIRE - St-FLOBENT 



1. 



LES GRANDS VINS DE FRANCE 



'YINS D ANJOU, DE TOURAINE 




TTOUr^T^lNE 



G. Tessier &C' 



Proprietaircs~fiegociants 

(CHATEAU OE' GHCN'JLLE, 

Maison fondce on 1859 



*idresse TeSegraphique 



TESSIER • CRENELLE ■ SAUMUR 



mm IB ciici 



LES EAUX-DE-VIE DE FRANCE 



ICOGNAC, KIRSCH 



-^^^-#^ 



4 



M AISON 



l<^De Bonnet &C 

£aux-de-Yie 

(Oliarente) 




\ Sp^eiAlit^ dc Kirschs gAracntis Purs sfe 



Hug. PBU^EUX 

& FOUGEROLLES (Haute- Saone) 



Recolte 1 885. ... 6 » | Rdcolte tSgS. . . . 4 25 

— 1890. ... 5 ». ••■ — 1896. . .,, 4 n 

- 1894. ... 4 50 -I .— 1-897. . . . 3 15 



' Le litre logii en bonbonnes ncuves, px>rt cf Sfoiti a la charge de I'achetcitr 



Moyennttnt Une kgite eugmentatiott on petit livier en belles bonbuimcs 
(Itsgfyi j«(- verre ds i ou 3 liliei youvaitt teiifir de i»rafoii 



XXXjUUl 



l£B GEAKDEB ,MAHQUE6 



LIQUEUR DIGESTIVE 





UA RSOUINE 



Tcl est le nom dune des mcilleures Jiogeurs qo'il soit donn* de .dftgusler. 
C'est dans le dtpartemeut de la Marne, A ! Abbaye d".Orbais, gue M. I'AUtie P'OT, 
curt ^I'Qrbnis possosseur d'une triss viaille lonnulc l«iss4c par iDou pu Bout, 
inoiiic de lAlibaye^'Orbais. a ipsuUt une dwtJUerie modfcle dans laauelle il s'ejt 
appli()U(, avac succte. A mettEC 4 profit la jc^ecette qui Jul A.tti JSguce coramc qn 
veritable trfisor et dont il a su tirer un si grand parti. Nous affirmons que les 
liqueurs de grandes marques, telles que la Chartreuse et la B6nMictine, ne sow* 
pas meilleures, et nous avons la conviction que quand la REOLINE sera toniuie, 
elle leur sera prfrterfee ,par beaucpup desourraets. Nous nesaunons trop engafar 
nos Iccteurs ien (aire usage. 

Ncjs sommes encore sous le charmc do la visite que nous avons laitc;^ 
I'Abbaye d'Orbais, oil nous avons 4t* accueilhs par M. rAbbC Piot d'uno (a<;oii si 
cordijali;.J(Qn,seulcnienl.U nous,4 (&it visiter sa ipi^nifique dislillerie-dans laquclfe 
nous avons pu jtdrmirer jfis apparcils les plus jjcctactiounes .ct Ics jilus modprni^. 




,^^^ 



-mais ce qui nous jd-oncere plus impi)«4sionn*,e'«at le cfttf philanthropique de soti 
entrcprise, oar .4 laidc-tle «on inaustiie. ftvec altc ct par elle. il tait vivrc unc 
cenlaino dorphelins qui, .jfrAce-alac^nleotion-.dcsa aavoureusc liqueur, trouvcnt 
prts de lui 3outiei< ct aflection. 

Le dSsir.leplus ardent dejM.l'Ab.WPioT e^t.dcvtjir scs efforts do pMis en pliis 
couronnes de succis, adn do.poiwvQir.augmentor.le.nombre des petits d6sh<;ntcs du 
sort quil pourra recueillir. Ce^t asses vous. dire, chers, Iccteurs, combien les ame. 
compatissantes-doivent.elre beuMusesde pouvoir «'a9soci«r a unc telle wuvre 
aussi nous ne doutons pas un scul instant qu'elles s'cmpresseront de (ai^e figur'^r 
sur leur tabic la savourcuse liqueur la REOLINE ct i lui donner la pr4(6rcnce sur 
toutcs les liqueurs similaires. 

Pour noire part, nous nous emprcssons de preter 1<' concours de notrc puolirit*^ 
» la prooagalion ric.la REOLINE d'QRBAIS-l'ABBAY£,si,bonoe, si ouctueusa, 
et.avec le produitde laquelle un saint. hoinme. tait tant do bien. 

•Pour se procurer la REOLINE, il faut s'adresser a la 

Distillerle d'ORBAIS-l'ABBAYE (Marne) 

ou bien A 

I Administration du GUIDE DO GRAND MONDE, 17, Rue Cadet, a PARIS 

AINSI Qtl'A SE«; CORRF\rOND\NTS 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



EAUX-DE-YIE 




Fine Brelagne 

PRODUIT de la DISTILLATION des 
VSNS BLAHCS KilNTAlS 




I 



u/iecmnile QaMo/^r^ 



NANTES 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 



LIQUEURS, YINS 



LIQUEURS SURFINES 



Guignolet 
Poulain 



■>^ 



Triple-Sec 
Poulain 



)E PISTILLERIS PE L*0UEST 



fD^daille de "Bronjs 
Bordeaux 1882 

(IXdaille dc Vermeil 
nanfe? 1882 



mddaille d'prgeni : 
"Bloij 1S83 

mddaille d Hrgenf • 
Vannef 1883 



fn^daille d'Hrgenl 
•nic< 1684 

m<!daillc d'Hrgcnl 
ti^on 1894 



Dipl^m^ Jlcademi^ T^alional^ Bgricol^ 1878. — DipliSmrf d'fjonneur : Nanlcs 1894 



E. POULAIfl Pere, Fils & C^ a NANTES 



VINS FINS DE BORDEAUX 



PROPRIETAIRE 

A. BjA.RSuA.O (O-ironcie) 
> » < < 

VINS BLANCS 

GjomcurK^ de. CHaoueith - Cios le, t'£;(3iUt 

VINS ROUGES 

(Do'ma'7/ne de Larriquelte - Cru de I'Or 
Cru de Jtdssoiie 

Tous ces vins pretsA mettre en bouteillcs, pamnt dirccte- 
i^ mcnt de la propriete, h 150 franca et au-dcssus f:i 
> barrique de 325 litres. 



LE.S -GEANPES MARQUES 



LES BIERES FRAN^AISES 




EKT REPORTS V 

dans les ppineipales Villes de FWNCE et d'flLCI^RlE 



A PAH IS 

dans les Grands .I:I6tels ef les ^PuiniCipaux Cai&s 



•Mfiilspfi :(fe fPegiJsisiiion ■• 



4 Ktii (en face i'OLYMPlA) 
43. iBoul-evard des Capucines 

DEJEUNERS - DLXERS - SOUPERS 

37, Rue AJboay. — TEI.EPHONE 264-51 



xxxxvn 



LES GRANDES MARQUES 
TAPIOCA NATUREL 



IMPORTATION DIRECTE 



TAPIOCA NATUREL 




? 



Medailles d'Or 
Hdi^dctille de iwr^rite 

PARIS A VIENNE 1873 

DIPIuOME DHONNEUR // 

-S-^— 4—S-3 '/^ 

L MAUPSiyl 

W Malson fondle en 1856 A f- \ , 

USIHE PCEliE : 33, Rue mathis.133 ' 

PABis -vilo:tteI 

GARANTI PUR NATUREL.fH^v-,,,-.. ,. | 
6e (ISfior dea ContrefactetArs Ac VMlAtflGationS. V 




UfifiJ am IHiiiaiies ^./ , ^ 



A,^ 



Billatc :23 To«& BOO granttnsa ^ 2 ff , 70 le Kllog. ^^ 



' J 






%. 



r5 



^ 



LES GRANDES, MARQUES 
PAINS D'EPICES 




A^. // La Maison apporie 
'' toua 388 aoins ^ 

I'executicn des 
commandss qui iui sont 
confiees et se charge spe- 
cialement de I'expeaiUon des 
Colis "Poslaux 
pour la France et VEtranger. 

IDEIFOT 

m Bum de la gare de Dijon-Vtll^ 



L m^SHOTssm^^^ mmtmummn m ^ >» --> rr g(u 




m^. ::^§ 




}i^^l 




-c:/.^j--^v''V^ -' 



-::: ^ir-< 



w 



Jin 



